Ascents in Canada as Attempt

Quite the old school adventure. We bailed at pitch 3 (graded 11b R in the guidebook). The first two pitches were quite good and offered thoughtful climbing in the 5.10 range (first pitch is also rated R). The crux at the start of the third pitch is directly above the belay and I couldn't calm my thoughts and get the image of falling onto my belayers head out of my mind so down we went. Though the route saw a retrofit in 1990, the protection is still fairly old school and all 3 belays to that point needed backing up. One to come back for I suppose!

Very thin on foot placements between the first bolt and upper finger crack

Tried on top rope, came back down, not feeling so safe to pull the undercling to the roof, the piece was too far over on the right, if I fell I would have swung and hit the tree next to it. Perhaps another day. Very fun otherwise.

Was going top rope to clean Face Ouest, felt at the roof, couldn't see anything from below, unfortunately with the swing I could not come back to the route. Maybe next time on lead.

Difficile! Vraiment 11b?

Needed to sling the tree, and still slipped into the drink before the penultimate bolt.

Could not pull the last few moves today.

Slipped off as I approached the 2nd bolt and took a ground fall. OUCH. Going to have trouble sitting for a while.

I'll be back for this one. Just couldn't pull myself up far enough to reach second bolt, pumped after three tries.

Head went at the crux. Humbled and feeling distinctly normal (not the superhuman iv come to beleive I am) I backed off, annoyed and a little embarrassed.

There are no bolts at 20-25m the only good bolts in line with the climb are about at 36m. 8 cm wide crack, a bit underhanging. Probably requires fist jams.

I was not able to make the moves past bolt 2, yet I was able to climb "L'Entre Deux" (5.10b) later the same day. No way those moves are 5.9.

une voie mix monté en sport et l'embition de la terminer sur la 6 mais backup sur la dernière plaquette...

Came off trying to get into crack and my feet touched the ground. Hard.

Wasn't feeling strong today, bailed before the crux.

Couldn't pull the real start (the 10a bit) but needed to clean the anchor, so traversed in from the far right.

Took a bad fall, so that ended the day. I'll be back...

The crux spat me off repeatedly. Keep thinking there's probably a move I wasn't seeing: would love to give it another shot (on a less humid day.)

Made another red-point attempt. Took another fall at the same, crux, point. Glad that the gear for that section is solid -- a really nice nut. Probably about a 20' fall, that the last 5' or so was slow, as I lifted my belayer into the air.

Made a lead attempt. After 3 falls, one pulling my top piece, in the moves before clipping the bolt, I bailed out to the left, and climbed up the wall/dihedral around the left arete. It actually takes pretty good gear and is decent climbing. Might be worth cleaning as a route.

Tried it, got scared, bailed to Piglet.

Could not stick the slab crux

Left a yellow nut that was stuck at the top. Feel free to keep it if you manage to get it out!

No way the crux section of this is 5.9. I think it is harder than 5.10b, don't know how much harder.

Couldn't pull past the first bolt on the slopers and bad feet.

So slippery. Attempted toprope. DIdn't get anywhere.