Ascents in Mount Nemo

Felt hard for the grade - but it was also quite damp, and I also read it poorly from the ground.

First pitch for my brand new rack of cams, and it’s a superb one. Great placements the entire way.

Happy to onsight on my gear! Crux felt very stiff for the grade.

Felt significantly harder than other 11bs on the wall due to the endurance section up high.

#1/6. High first bolt... Stick clipped because why not, but climbing easy. Lots of bolts on this one. Some nice moves. A good warmup.

#4/6. This is not a sport route anymore - chains are still up, but bolts have been removed (2019 according to Rakkup guide). Climbed with full rack; only used 3 cams... One large to get past the initial ledge into the chimney, which I removed once I was over it, then a small Friend and one small cam higher up. This felt basically like a solo, or maybe a super easy PG route? Sean said there were some nut holes I could have used, but climbing was so easy and felt so safe there was little motivation to protect myself.

#2/6. Sean led. I pulled the rope and climbed thru his gear, cleaned and lowered.

Below the slab, this climbs like a 5.6. slab bit is more like 5.8. Ends too soon.

#3/6. Second trad climb of 2024. Placed 4 med/large cams, including my big blue DMM dragon ... Might be only the 2nd or 3rd time I've used that one.

#5/6. The polished flaring hand crack in the middle was not working for me, so I jogged left toward the 5.7, got a bit more height, grabbed the finger pocket, delicately traversed back to the ledge, and skipped a bolt to just clip above the ledge. Spicy!

Would have been a Redpoint, but rested a couple times on the way up. Sean followed my beta on TR, then moved the rope to Foxtrot for our top-out climb.

#6/6. Last climb of the day. Sean moved the rope from Polka to the rings, so we could do a couple quick TRs and exit at the top, avoiding about 45 mins of hiking out.

Great spot for top belay, hauling up packs, and top belay for second climber.

Since top roping off trees is not allowed, recommend only doing this if you can flash the climb without having to rest on a tree anchor.

Note: due to a poorly placed left foot one or two moves off the ground (read: just a flag instead of an actual toe) I overworked my right index finger and now have a sore/swollen pulley. Yay. Still worth it. 🤣