Ascents in Ontario by David Gibbs

Had a foot slip, and thought I was going for a ride, but my hand was wedged into a crack, so it caught me. I think I may have wrenched my left shoulder a bit, though.

After 7 or 8 falls at the second bolt, my fingers were starting to ache from the crimps, so I gave up.

same, TR before bolting. Pretty consistent at 5.4, and everyone loves having a 5.4 sport route around, right?

Thinking of throwing some bolts in here, wanted to TR it again to see what I thought.

This is, very definitely "old school" 5.9. Crux is probably around 5.10b, but (at least) protected by a bolt. Rest of the gear to that point doesn't look great, either.

Surprised at how easily this went. Really good friction today with the cooler temperature must have helped.

One fall because I screwed up the beta at the crux.

5.8 start, some relaxed climbing, then the 5.8 kicks back in.

Thin at the top, and the anchor stance isn't, but a bunch of good climbing.

I'd have added a bolt to protect the start if it were my route, but it isn't my route, or my crag.

Fun chimney climbing to a touch finish. Gear is generally good, though I had to do a bit of gardening for a placement at one point.

Might be 5.8+ if clean.

Clean on TR, but would be harder on lead -- some very thin climbing. And you might lose a critical hold or two to the gear.

On TR felt about 5.10b

First climb at the crag, and my least favourite. It just wasn't, at least for me, enjoyable climbing.

Like the other trad routes, would be nicer if cleaner. I did brush a bunch of lichen off on the way down -- looked more like a route after that.

We also used the first bolt of "Mad Tom" to protect the start.

Much more consistent at the grade than the 10s to its right, making it a better climb.

Failed to figure out the finish, and took several lead falls trying. Probably 5.10b.

Maybe 5.10b? Though only at the start, rest is pretty mellow, maybe 5.8-5.9.

Dirty, like all almost all the trad routes.

Wasn't 5.6, though, but probably harder than 5.4, so likely 5.5.

Final moves to the anchor are not a gimme, and a bit exposed (compared to the rest of the bolting in this section).

Really really hard 5.8. Might be 5.9. Especially if you don't hand-jam to pull past bolt 2.

Barely 5.10a to clip the anchor, at least at my height, but the final pull up to anchor height is noticeably harder than anything else on the route. Do you have to do that final move? Then, maybe, 10b. If you're done when you clip... not so 10b.

If not for the bird shit, would get an extra *.

Cheated past the opening crux, and fell a couple other spots, too. But a good climb.

While it took me a try or two at the crux, the rest was fine, and I think I've got beta that will go smoothly next time. So, on lead next time.

Start was damp-to-wet, so stick-clipped bolt 2. Was actually damp through the first 4-5 bolts, but climbed ok.

Start was damp, but climbed ok.

Pulled on a nylon jug at the crux.

Hard, steep, and a lot of work. But excellent climbing, and good gear. Well worth climbing.

Managed to avoid using the obvious tree at the start.

Only P1, but lovely fun.

Was previously shown as 5.10c, I looked at it, and it didn't look too bad. So, I attempted it, expecting to take a few falls, maybe have to haul on a draw. To my surprise, I on-sighted it. Mostly because it isn't 5.10c. Might be hard 10a, might be soft 10b, hard to tell where in that range. (Spine of the Dragon, 10a, is a very different style, but I'd say harder.)

I'm not sure why P3 & P4 are split as separate pitches, it doesn't really make sense. Not long enough, no rope drag issues, and pretty consistent at the 5.4-5.5 grade. And P2 isn't 5.9 unless you screw up your route finding. The (nominal) final pitch is not 5.6, somewhere in the 5.4 to 5.5 range. (Compare to P1 of Perspective, just to the right, a tough, but fair, 5.6.)

I'd call this three pitches: 5.9, 5.8, 5.5.

Still, a lovely bolted outing.

And, as I had already climbing P1, and Switftly Tilting Planet, so went up the crack to the right for P1. Pretty good climbing, and looks like good gear, should probably be a climb.