Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 15th Jun 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
5.7 | ★★ Triplets | 22m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Chute Libre | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Illusion | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ La Cha-cha des Félins | 28m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Super Crackpot | 35m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 15th Jun 2024 - Lone star | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ La voie normale | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.5 | ★ La quatre voies | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.4 | ★ Gourgandine | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Mysophobie | 12m, 6 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Gros orteil | 12m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille | 12m, 4 | ||||
5.5 | ★ La lili | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Mont Ste-Marie | ||||||
Rock Area | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ More Cowbell | 17m | ||||
Attempted to lead it -- but after falling about 5 times at the start, gave up.
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5.10a | ★★ Parnoosh Pizzaz | 12m, 1 | ||||
5.6 | ★★ More Cowbell | 17m | ||||
I couldn't pull the start with my rack, but was able to do so (with a lot of struggle) on TR.
It feel like a V0+ to V1 boulder problem to get started, then the rest is pretty mellow. |
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5.10d | ★★ San Diago | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I got a lot further than I expected. I need to make another TR attempt when I'm not injured.
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5.9 Hard | ★★★ Poop Mouth Direct | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 Hard | ★★ Furry Tractor | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Chocolate Squirrel | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.10b Easy | ★★ C'est beau, man! | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Trench Warfare | 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lower bolted section went far more smoothly than I expected.
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5.9 | ★★ Chasseur de primes | 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sport variation.
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5.10c Easy | ★ Dalle masquée | 7 | ★ Good | |||
I think the crux bit is height-dependent. For someone taller, it might only be 5.10b, but if it takes two or three moves, rather than one, to reach the critical crimp, it would be harder.
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Je s’appellais Grout | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 Hard | ★ Rite de passage | 17m, 6 | Average | |||
5.8 | ★★ Surprise sur prises | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Weir | ||||||
Mur de l'ouest 2ème étage | ||||||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Aucun Idée | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Pop Corn | 27m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 Hard | Ruban Rose | 27m | ||||
5.9 Hard | ★ Voie du Boulot | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 25th May 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Fractus | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Lemon Technique | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 25th May 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Lac Tucker | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Birthday Bunduru
1
5.9
25
Was soaking wet, so much more challenging. Rested on gear about half-way up, otherwise clean.
2
5.7
23
First few moves off the anchor are 5.7 -- rest about 5.5 or easier.
3
5.9
36
Took three tries to get the initial traverse right from the anchor, which is thin slab (5.9). Rest goes closer to 5.7, but is run-out near the end.
4
5.5
35
A rambly final pitch, and committing as a 5.5 leader since moves at grade need to be done before the first gear placement. | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead this with P1 soaking wet, except followed P4.
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.8 Hard | ★★ (new 2020? sport slab) | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Colonel Kirtz | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but hard.
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5.9 | ★★ Hanibal Lecter | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5.4 | ★★ Encore! mon lapin | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Controverse | ||||||
5.5 | ★ hiroshima | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Actually climbed this as Hirosaki -- gear up the opening section, then past the intermediate anchor on the bolts from Nagasaki to finish on its anchor.
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5.6 | ★ nagasaki | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed this as Nagashima -- first three bolts of Nagasaki, then switch to the bolted (formerly trad) section of Hiroshima.
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5.8 | ★ friction constitutionnelle | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ controverse | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Kanata (Tremblant) | ||||||
Secteur Tomahawk | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Déclic | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The finish is a bit run-out, but the climbing eases off, too.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Kanata (Tremblant) | ||||||
Secteur Dallecoolique | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Une petite vite d'amour | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I was surprised to get this clean. Guess I have to lead it, next.
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5.10a Hard | ★★ Fausse Alerte | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained slab.
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5.8 | ★★ Petite Gymnastique | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, but good.
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5.8 G | ★★★ Il est grand temps | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Start was soaking wet and slimy, other bits were wet in the crack, so we decided to TR it.
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5.10b | ★★ Go Godasse | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
One little foot slip!
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5.7 Hard | ★★ Carrefour Giratoire | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★★ Dans le Bon Vieux Temps | 32m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
5.8 Hard | ★★ L'Abeille | 21m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mostly on Simon's gear, though I did add one piece. Gear was good, and good stance for placing it, so could easily have place it myself.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Plein Des Mains | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Au Bord du Gouffre | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
Le Mur Principale | ||||||
5.6 Hard | ★ L'Éperon | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Might be 5.7 if you avoid pulling on the large loose block.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Rive Gauche | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing, but really hard for5.8, and looks like the gear would be tricky to place, too.
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5.7 Hard | ★★ La Fruitee | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Momo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 3rd May 2024 - Rocher du Capitaine | ||||||
Les voies | ||||||
5.5 | ★★ Cueva de Blue | 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Relampago | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The hand jams are ok, but there's a lot more finger jams and finger locks on this than hand jams, and they're not-so-ok.
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5.8 | ★★ Nubes | 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Zenith | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ DragonFly | 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wet in places, especially the crack, making it a bit more exciting.
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5.8 | ★ Pourquoi pas ? | Average | ||||
Went smoother than I expected. I should lead this next time.
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5.7 | ★ La Centrale | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★ Obélix | Average | ||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was wet in the first crux section, so had to avoid that to the right.
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5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Driest route of the day - only the start (easy) was wet.
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5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Notch through first bulge was wet, so had to divert to the right. Not easier, just drier.
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5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Was wet in places, but mostly places that didn't matter.
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5.8 ~5.8 | ★ Ovipositor to Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
Climbed the start of Ovipositor, until the roof, then escaped left onto Sunday Morning Stroll.
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5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
The usual, bringing someone up so they can leave.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Time to Rock It | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - right variant | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Could use some more cleaning, but if that is done, would be a fine route.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Lone star | ||||||
5.6 Easy | Pile poil | 10m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
5.8 | ★★ Chas percé | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 Hard | ★ La vieille | 10m, 1 | Average | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Métaphysique de Descartes | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
5.9 ~5.8 | ★★ 4 à 6 | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 Easy | ★★ Haute en couleur | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 | ★★ La voie normale | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Rencontre au sommet | 28m | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★★ Trois fois rien | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.5 | ★ La quatre voies | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 Easy | Right Arete | 12m | Average | |||
5.6 Easy | ★★ Highball | 12m | Average | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Mysophobie | 12m, 6 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Gros orteil | 12m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille | 12m, 4 | ||||
5.5 | ★ La lili | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.5 Hard | ★★ Le Marchand de Sable | 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of wet on it, made it noticeably harder than 5.8
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