Routes in Europe for selected grade

Wand (R) zum 2.R "Schmidts Katze". Darunter rechts queren zu deren 1.R und rechtshaltend zu 4.R. Sprung (6) zu Massiv (Loch). Rippen zu kleinem Band. Sprung (7) zum Turm (Loch, 5.R). Wand gerade zum 3.R "Windspiel". Dieses nach rechts zu den Rissen vom "Windweg". Diesen und wie "Südostweg" zu Band. Wand gerade, später Reibung zG.

C.R.S stands for "Cowboy a Reaction Stupide" (Cowboys reacting stupidly) and is also the acronym for the anti-protest French forces, not really known for their brain power.

For such a short route, only 22m, the route must pack a punch!

Adam says “The style is definitely power resistance. There’s a very physical roof on pinches and pockets leading to a very crimpy exit on the final bulge"

It took Adam 3 days to work the route and at the time was his fastest 9b ascent.

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yYV9yASRBI

A combination of the boulder Picacho (8B+) with "Alí Hulk (extension)".

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

An alternative start to to La Fabela but with the same first anchor (where there is also a good rest). The second part is the same as "La Fabela pa la Enmienda", linked it is called Catxasa R2.

The route is 45-degrees overhanging with a boulder problem to pull over into the final slab. 25 moves of 8c+ to reach a poor rest. Then 10 moves to reach the crux: a jump from a mono to a big pinch. Afterwards endurance 8b+ with few rests. Yellow rock at the bottom that goes to white and at the top it is grey.

Starts on "Nordic Plumber" and climbs through the second pitch of "Thor’s Hammer".

Britain's first 9b!

This is a linkup of four routes. The line starts with Raindogs (5.13b), moves onto and through the crux of Rainshadow (5.14d), onto Batman (5.14d/5.15a) and then finishes up on Batroute (5.14b).

Climbs the cave from left to right.

https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/09/alexander-megos-holt-sich-die-2-begehung-von-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a/

Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018).

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
• Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

Extension of Smile of Jokonda.

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'. More infos @ www.kletterblock.de

Direct start of Estado Critico.

Variant of 'La cène du lézard'. Start by 'Focus Pocus'.

Linking the first half of Bronx (8c+) to the second crux of Sashidananda (9a/+), whith a hard sequence in between.

A left finish to "Café Colombia".

A combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. Maybe one of the hardest slabs in the world.

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

Ends at the second anchor.

A combination of "The Journey" and "Café Colombia".

Extremely physical and athletic at the beginning, extremely crimpy and core oriented at the same time.

Described by Jonathan Siegrist as "Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell."

The route links a section of 8c into a steep and crimpy upper half to create a 45-meter endurance test-piece.

It was the first 9b to be freed by a female climber: Angy Eiter.

Extension of "Legend".

The route is a connection of two established 8c+: Starting to the left of Za staro kolo in majhnega psa from a separate bolt, the line traverses right and leads into the upper section of Sanjski par.

Shares anchor with First Round First Minute.

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

Initially graded 9b/9b+, downgrade proposed by Adam Ondra to 9b in Nov-2021.

Direct start to "Destruction" right in the cave. More at kletterblock.de

In the moment Alexander Megos and Yannick Flohé try this project

Just to the right of "A je to!".

https://youtu.be/OlV-uPWb7yQ?si=PIjkcHeKLqj3dYik

Between "Solimano" and "Marco Gelato".

Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021.

Start in Brooklyn (9b) to finish in Bronx (8c+).

Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi.

Extension of 'Lux est Lux'. Goes straight through the center of the cave crossing a 20m horizontal roof. The line is split into two distinct sections, the first up to a rest is about 8b+ from where the hard part of the route begins.

This is Beyond with its extension

Las Meninas to the second anchor.

A 60 meters long endurance challenge that connects three routes. 'Pata Negra' at the beginning, the crux of 'No pain no gain' and ends at the lower off of 'Botanics'.

Downgrade to 9a+ proposed by Sébastien Bouin and to 9a+/9b by Martin Tekles in 2023.

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
• Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

To the first anchor of Change.

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'.

Left start into "Mar de Bering".

A short, steep, and powerful route.

Rési avec une grosse section bloc au milieu. Gros dévers.

Début dans Sachidananda et sortie dans Bronx

First 9b+ of the world.

Links the first part of Move (9a) into the second crux of Silence (8A+/B). There is a no hand rest between the two sections.

Sébastien Bouin suggest a downgrade to 9a+ using kneepads.

Ascents

• Adam Ondra - 20 October 2013
• Sébastien Bouin - 18 June 2019

A start variant of 'One Punch'.

Comparte gran parte del recorrido con su vecino "Gran Guggenheim".

Shares a large part of the route with its neighbor "Gran Guggenheim".

Climbs the first few meters of "I Have a Dream" and then climbs left into "A 2 Bandas". Youtube FA

To the second anchor of "The Journey".

A "hard and beautiful" king line test piece put up by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+, J. Schubert has suggested it could be a hard 9a+. Felipe seemed to confirm the 9b grade.

Ascents:

• Chris Sharma - 7 March 2015
• Jakob Schubert - 2 December 2018
• Felipe Camargo - 18 April 2019

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

A combination of 'Seta ibérica' and 'Circo ibérico'.

A pure resistance route. Video.

New start between Macumba Club (8c) and Bronx (8c+), with two hard crux (8A+ and 7C+ boulder), finishing right into La Connexion (8c+).

Nicknamed the French Chilam Balam for its length and sustained difficulty.

The route was bolted in the late nineties and is made of two parts: The first part (added later) is the extension start. The second part is the original "Les yeux plus gros que le ventre" (which means having eyes bigger than belly).

Description

:

The first roof part is around 20-25 meters and weighs in around 8b+. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope.

Then you have a bouldery crux featuring a one finger pocket to reach another rest. Until here it could be an 8c route.

Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after this a series of bouldery sections: 7A, 7A, 7C+/8A and finally a 7B.

All these boulder problems are amazing. Especially the redpoint crux of the route in the 7C+/8A boulder. There are incredible moves to finish on a tufa dyno.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk

Start jako 'Špička ledovce', v klíčovém místě doprava do nástupu 'Indirectly Direct' a tím nahoru.

Kombinace síly v prstů, stisků, komprese a těžké paty.

Exact location unknown, please move to the right area if you know where it is.

Spojení cesty 'Blatanta' a 'Kra'. Takže začíná z kolene vlevo od nástupu cesty 'Němá barikáda', pár kroků nahoru a doleva do madla cesty 'Kudlanka'.

Spojení 8B 4 kroků, 4 kroků 7B+ a 11 kroků 8B.

Initially graded 8C by Adam Ondra, upgraded to 8C/C+ by Martin Stráník.

Video: https://vimeo.com/334611979