A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adam Orcholski Christoph Rauch Campbell Gome Tony Günther Kuba Jo Scha Kai Daniel Thomas Hocke Martin Skalli
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände 45 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände 45 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.768472, 11.329143
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
summary
Historic crag, home to the Frankenjura's first route in the lower 9th grade UIAA, "Sautanz", by Kurt Albert †. Mostly vertical pocket climbing.
description
Fantastic crag with lots of classics from the golden era of Frankenjura sport climbing.
access issues
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
approach
Park at the hiker's parking lot at the northern end of the street "An der Martinswand". From the parking lot, follow a broad path to the west, which leads you directly to the east face of the crag in two minutes.
GPS: 11.32905, 49.76864
ethic
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Ostseite | ||||||||
2 |
Überdosis
FFA: Stefan Löw, 2008 | 8+ | 20m | |||||
3 | Südostkante - Direkteinstieg | 8- | 20m | |||||
4 |
Der goldene Schuss
Set: Peter Bayer FFA: Moritz Perwitzschky, Jun 2021 | 9+ | 20m | |||||
5 | ★★ Südostkante | 7+ | 20m | |||||
6 |
Save Our Sausages
FFA: Georg Sprachmann, 1988 | 9- | 20m | |||||
7 |
Kottan ermittelt
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1985 | 8+ | 20m | |||||
8 |
C.D.I.N.V / L.d.J.n.v.
FFA: Stefan Elsässer | 8 | 20m | |||||
9 | ★ Lustgewinn | 8- | 20m | |||||
10 | ★ Dynamo | 8- | 10m | |||||
11 | ★ Genießerspalte | 6- | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ Kalauer
FFA: Kurt Albert † & Wolfgang Güllich †, 1980 | 8 | 20m | |||||
13 | Ich war der Märchenprinz | 9-/9 | 20m | |||||
Nordwand linker Teil | ||||||||
15 | ★★ LK-Riss | 6- | 20m | |||||
16 | Eisheiliger | 9- | 20m | |||||
17 | LK-Riss Direkteinstieg | 9- | 20m | |||||
18 | Alaric | 9+ | 20m | |||||
19 |
★★★ Kleiner Muck
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich † & Kurt Albert †, 1981 | 8+ | 20m | |||||
20 | Frankie Goes to Frankenjura | 8 | 20m | |||||
21 |
Skyhook
FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 8- | 20m | |||||
22 | Kleiner Kamin | 5+ | 20m | |||||
23 | ★★ Klimbim | 7- | 20m | |||||
24 | ★★ Mai DaNi | 6+ | 20m | |||||
25 | ★★ Zwillingriss | 5 | 20m, 3 | |||||
26 |
★ Kaffeemaus
Direct finish to "Danzer Gedenkweg". FFA: Daniel Frischbier | 7+ | 18m | |||||
27 | ★ Danzer Gedenkweg | 6- | 20m | |||||
28 | ★ Rotkehlchen | 7+ | 20m | |||||
29 |
★ Kurze Acht
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981 | 8- | 10m | |||||
Nordwand rechter Teil | ||||||||
31 |
Hangover
Climbing forbidden (Zone 1) | 6- | 20m | |||||
32 |
Martinskamin
Climbing forbidden (Zone 1) | 4 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
33 |
★★ Seitenstreifen
FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1986 | 8- | 20m, 4 | |||||
34 | ★★ Haringer Gedenkweg | 6+ | 20m | |||||
35 | ★★ Haringer Gedenkweg direkt | 7- | 20m | |||||
36 |
★★ Schleimspur
Set: Wolfgang Güllich † FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 9- | 20m, 4 | |||||
37 |
★★ No Chance With Galoshkies
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983 | 9- | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
38 |
★★★ Sautanz
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981 FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 9- | 20m | |||||
39 |
★★★ Katapult
FFA: Michael Schlotter, 1984 | 9 | 18m | |||||
40 |
★★★ Humbug
FFA: Kurt Albert † & Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 9- | 20m, 4 | |||||
41 |
Sprungschanze
FFA: Bernhard Thum | 9- | 20m | |||||
42 | Nordverschneidung | 5- | 20m | |||||
43 | ★★ Never Stop Exploring | 7- | 18m | |||||
44 | ★★★ Bunte Wand Variante | 8- | 15m | |||||
45 | ★★ Bunte Wand | 7 | 15m | |||||
46 |
★ Stabeler Gedenkweg
well protected | 6 | 15m | |||||
47 | ★★ Piazriss | 6 | 20m | |||||
48 |
★ Say Yeah
The first bolt is quite high. | 6+ | 15m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
4 | Martinskamin | 20m | |||
5- | Nordverschneidung | 20m | |||
5 | ★★ | Zwillingriss | 20m, 3 | ||
5+ | Kleiner Kamin | 20m | |||
6- | ★ | Danzer Gedenkweg | 20m | ||
★ | Genießerspalte | 15m | |||
Hangover | 20m | ||||
★★ | LK-Riss | 20m | |||
6 | ★★ | Piazriss | 20m | ||
★ | Stabeler Gedenkweg | 15m | |||
6+ | ★★ | Haringer Gedenkweg | 20m | ||
★★ | Mai DaNi | 20m | |||
★ | Say Yeah | 15m | |||
7- | ★★ | Haringer Gedenkweg direkt | 20m | ||
★★ | Klimbim | 20m | |||
★★ | Never Stop Exploring | 18m | |||
7 | ★★ | Bunte Wand | 15m | ||
7+ | ★ | Kaffeemaus | 18m | ||
★ | Rotkehlchen | 20m | |||
★★ | Südostkante | 20m | |||
8- | ★★★ | Bunte Wand Variante | 15m | ||
★ | Dynamo | 10m | |||
★ | Kurze Acht | 10m | |||
★ | Lustgewinn | 20m | |||
★★ | Seitenstreifen | 20m, 4 | |||
Skyhook | 20m | ||||
Südostkante - Direkteinstieg | 20m | ||||
8 | C.D.I.N.V | 20m | |||
Frankie Goes to Frankenjura | 20m | ||||
★★ | Kalauer | 20m | |||
8+ | ★★★ | Kleiner Muck | 20m | ||
Kottan ermittelt | 20m | ||||
Überdosis | 20m | ||||
9- | Eisheiliger | 20m | |||
★★★ | Humbug | 20m, 4 | |||
LK-Riss Direkteinstieg | 20m | ||||
★★ | No Chance With Galoshkies | 20m | |||
★★★ | Sautanz | 20m | |||
Save Our Sausages | 20m | ||||
★★ | Schleimspur | 20m, 4 | |||
Sprungschanze | 20m | ||||
9-/ | Ich war der Märchenprinz | 20m | |||
9 | ★★★ | Katapult | 18m | ||
9+ | Alaric | 20m | |||
Der goldene Schuss | 20m |