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Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Adam Orcholski Campbell Gome Tony Günther Kuba Jo Scha Thomas Hocke Martin Skalli

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.768472, 11.329143

summary

Historic crag, home to the Frankenjura's first route in the lower 9th grade UIAA, "Sautanz", by Kurt Albert †. Mostly vertical pocket climbing.

description

Fantastic crag with lots of classics from the golden era of Frankenjura sport climbing.

access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

approach

Park at the hiker's parking lot at the northern end of the street "An der Martinswand". From the parking lot, follow a broad path to the west, which leads you directly to the east face of the crag in two minutes.

GPS: 11.32905, 49.76864

ethic

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.
inherited from Frankenjura Nord
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Ostseite

2 Überdosis

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2008

8+ Sport 20m
3 Südostkante - Direkteinstieg 8- Sport 20m
4 Der goldene Schuss

Set: Peter Bayer

FFA: Moritz Perwitzschky, Jun 2021

9+ Sport 20m
5 Südostkante 7+ Sport 20m
6 Save Our Sausages

FFA: Georg Sprachmann, 1988

9- Sport 20m
7 Kottan ermittelt

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1985

8+ Sport 20m
8 C.D.I.N.V / L.d.J.n.v.

FFA: Stefan Elsässer

8 Sport 20m
9 Lustgewinn 8- Sport 20m
10 Dynamo 8- Sport 10m
11 Genießerspalte 6- Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Kalauer 8 Sport 20m
13 Ich war der Märchenprinz 9-/9 Sport 20m

Nordwand linker Teil

15 LK-Riss 6- Sport 20m
16 Eisheiliger 9- Sport 20m
17 LK-Riss Direkteinstieg 9- Sport 20m
18 Alaric 9+ Sport 20m
19 Kleiner Muck 8+ Sport 20m
20 Frankie Goes to Frankenjura 8 Sport 20m
21 Skyhook 8- Sport 20m
22 Kleiner Kamin 5+ Sport 20m
23 Klimbim 7- Sport 20m
24 Mai DaNi 6+ Sport 20m
25 Zwillingriss 5 Mixed trad 20m, 3
26 Kaffeemaus

Direct finish to "Danzer Gedenkweg".

FFA: Daniel Frischbier

7+ Sport 18m
27 Danzer Gedenkweg 6- Sport 20m
28 Rotkehlchen 7+ Sport 20m
29 Kurze Acht

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981

8- Sport 10m

Nordwand rechter Teil

31 Hangover

Climbing forbidden (Zone 1)

6- Sport 20m
32 Martinskamin

Climbing forbidden (Zone 1)

4 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
33 Seitenstreifen

FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1986

8- Sport 20m, 4
34 Haringer Gedenkweg 6+ Sport 20m
35 Haringer Gedenkweg direkt 7- Sport 20m
36 Schleimspur 9- Sport 20m, 4
37 No Chance With Galoshkies

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983

9- Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
38 Sautanz

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981

FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981

9- Sport 20m
39 Katapult

FFA: Michael Schlotter, 1984

9 Sport 18m
40 Humbug 9- Sport 20m, 4
41 Sprungschanze

FFA: Bernhard Thum

9- Sport 20m
42 Nordverschneidung 5- Sport 20m
43 Never Stop Exploring 7- Sport 18m
44 Bunte Wand Variante 8- Sport 15m
45 Bunte Wand 7 Sport 15m
46 Stabeler Gedenkweg

well protected

6 Sport 15m
47 Piazriss 6 Sport 20m
48 Say Yeah

The first bolt is quite high.

6+ Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
4 Martinskamin Sport 20m
5- Nordverschneidung Sport 20m
5 Zwillingriss Mixed trad 20m, 3
5+ Kleiner Kamin Sport 20m
6- Danzer Gedenkweg Sport 20m
Genießerspalte Sport 15m
Hangover Sport 20m
LK-Riss Sport 20m
6 Piazriss Sport 20m
Stabeler Gedenkweg Sport 15m
6+ Haringer Gedenkweg Sport 20m
Mai DaNi Sport 20m
Say Yeah Sport 15m
7- Haringer Gedenkweg direkt Sport 20m
Klimbim Sport 20m
Never Stop Exploring Sport 18m
7 Bunte Wand Sport 15m
7+ Kaffeemaus Sport 18m
Rotkehlchen Sport 20m
Südostkante Sport 20m
8- Bunte Wand Variante Sport 15m
Dynamo Sport 10m
Kurze Acht Sport 10m
Lustgewinn Sport 20m
Seitenstreifen Sport 20m, 4
Skyhook Sport 20m
Südostkante - Direkteinstieg Sport 20m
8 C.D.I.N.V Sport 20m
Frankie Goes to Frankenjura Sport 20m
Kalauer Sport 20m
8+ Kleiner Muck Sport 20m
Kottan ermittelt Sport 20m
Überdosis Sport 20m
9- Eisheiliger Sport 20m
Humbug Sport 20m, 4
LK-Riss Direkteinstieg Sport 20m
No Chance With Galoshkies Sport 20m
Sautanz Sport 20m
Save Our Sausages Sport 20m
Schleimspur Sport 20m, 4
Sprungschanze Sport 20m
9-/ Ich war der Märchenprinz Sport 20m
9 Katapult Sport 18m
9+ Alaric Sport 20m
Der goldene Schuss Sport 20m
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