Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 25th May 2023 - Cattlestop Crag | ||||||
Merlin Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Nuggets | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Please Stop | 13m, 4 | ||||
17 | ★ A Dull Thump | 13m, 3 | ||||
Tue 23rd May 2023 - Wunderbar | ||||||
15 | ★ School's Out! | 15m, 4 | ||||
18 | ★ Blaze of Glory | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 28 Caffeine Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Girls Just Wanna Have Fun | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 11th May 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Spittle Hill Map 10 Agony and Grotto | ||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Jumped Up Country Boy... | ★ Good | ||||
Good route with some wee sneaky moves in between. Having to relearn how to smear after a year away from the limestone 😅
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16/17 ~17 | ★★★ Tales From The Riverbank | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mega-Classic route. A bit of everything from crack, huge pockets and jugs, and a sneaky technical traverse. Probably one of the best routes in the country in terms of quality of a climb.
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Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Gumps But-tock | ||||||
23 Hard | ★ Escape From Belsen | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Took a few goes to get the bottom crux dialed. Went through the bottom 12 metre section clean and begun to mantle when I realized the next bolt was 6-7 metres diagonally along a extremely dirty slab, Realizing a fall here would result in a serious injury, I downclimbed back to above the crux and retreated. Would not recommend climbing until another bolt has been added and the route cleaned.
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Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
16 Hard | ★ Winona's Big Brown Beaver (Alternative Start) | 25m, 9 | ||||
19 ~20 | ★★ Epilogue | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good route. Might be a touch sandbagged for a 19. First moves are pretty cruxy to the third bolt.
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Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
17 Easy Hard | ★★ Mr Muggs | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pompeii | ||||||
18 Hard |
★ Vertical Deep Dish Pizza
1
2
| 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Dirty but fun!
|
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Amazing Grace | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Cruxy traverse start through the roof. Throw in a knee bar and lock off to the jug.
Pretty happy getting this first red-point attempt. |
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20 | ★ Nearly Smoko | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start into a great crux. The three metres of climbing near the top makes it worth while.
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Red Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | ||||
Repeat
|
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Lunar Wall | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Nicked
1
2
| 55m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Tad runout, but not very difficult climbing. Good line!
|
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Bolt City | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell off at the red-point crux again… few days rest and should be good for the send.
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Avian Wall | ||||||
17 ~19 | ★ Great Ape | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Definitely a sandbag for the grade. Most people agree with this.
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Mon 27th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Bolt City | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
17 Easy Hard | ★★ Mr Muggs | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Laps
|
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Kai Whaka Pai | ||||||
17 | ★★ Climb Into The Unknown | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★ Pulp Fiction | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
17 Easy Hard | ★★ Mr Muggs | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent route. Probably one of the best new route of the beach
|
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19 | ★ Holy Wall | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Port Chalmers Quarry | ||||||
18 ~17 |
★★ The Great Escape
1
15m
2
10m
3
10m
| 35m, 15 | ||||
Mellow day out teaching the misses to multipitch. For a 15 may be a touch sandbagged. Second and last pitch probably more between 16-18.
|
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Wed 14th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | ||||||
19 | ★★ Surreptitious | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup lap.
|
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Upper Sunnyside | ||||||
17 | ★★ End Rib | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cheeky repeat
|
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Southern Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Flash Bomb | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Long nice climb with a cruxy layback crack.
|
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
16 | ★★ William Shatner Handbag | 10m, 4 | ||||
16 | ★★ William Shatner Handbag | 10m, 4 | ||||
18 | ★★ Bum Plod | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Avian Wall | ||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Givin | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
18 | ★★ Bum Plod | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Avian Wall | ||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Givin | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
17 | ★ Cave Party | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
20 | ★★ Bowels of Mercy | 14m, 3 | Average | |||
Tricky for the grade
|
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18 | ★★ Bum Plod | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Kiloton | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Angel Face | ||||||
17 Hard | ★ Bury The Brass | 15m, 5 | ||||
Cheeky wee quick session in the morning.
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16 ~17 | ★ Easter Rising | 15m, 5 | ||||
17 | ★ No Quarter | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 | ★★ U Haul | 10m, 3 | ||||
Sweet line. Had to rest on the last bolt.
|
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Circus | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Ticket Office | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First time climbing at the circus. The climb isn't difficult. Technical and absolutely beautiful. Handjams, jugs, and bridging up the corner to the top.
Reason for the hangdog is because the exposure is pretty unreal. Goes 0-100 real quick. |
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pompeii | ||||||
15 | ★★ Amphora | 6 | ||||
18 | ★★ Pyroclast | 8 | ||||
Beautiful balancey moves after the overhang.
|
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Main Wall Right Side | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Perfect Skin | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Working the bottom moves and getting used to the holds on top rope. Linked from the ground up to the third draw. Gonna work the crux next session.
|
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20 | ★ Fluid Ethics | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty nice route, lots of interesting technical moves. Stupidly lost my balance after the crux and had a surprising fall 😅
|
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Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Hidden Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Stuka | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumpy through the overhang.
|
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Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Manhattan Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Grand Central | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reachy moves through crux. Good fun.
|
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Mon 26th Sep 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Red Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
22 | ★ Piranha | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Saying it is a 21 is a bit bold. Defiantly at least 22. Overhung the whole way up. Great line.
|
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Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Southern Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Shady Rest | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yeah four months off does nothing for endurance... Went from onsighting this to having to rest halfway up... Let the process begin once again
|
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18 | ★★ Ride the Spiral | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Waerm up. Techy traverse.
|
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Rainbow Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Aurora | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We literally spent the day between us trying to get this thing. Literally, how is a route this short so pumpy! Pretty much ended up being power endurance laps for us Highly recommend this wall to people who like powerful techy climbing but have not much endurance just like me! The 26 looks stellar! Whole wall is 20 degrees plus overhung.
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Cutting | ||||||
22 | ★ Nothing But Scum | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
All of us could flash the route to the anchor. None could clip the anchors. Though the last bolt is 40cm below the anchor, assuming that you clip the last bolt, then the climb is done, then clip through anchor. Unless the actual crux is clipping the anchor?
|
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21 | ★ Perineal Massage | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy jugs
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Sunnyside | ||||||
20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Foot popped. Almost flipped upside down 😬 saved myself by having my foot off to push off… not my greatest moment.
|
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Cattle Yard Back Side | ||||||
21 | ★★ Schist the Bed | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slaby climbing to awkward finish.
|
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19 | ★★ Gluten Free Vegan | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun
|
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Cattle Yard East Face | ||||||
24 | ★★ Should Have Gone First | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great way to round off the climbing season! Super stoked on this. First redpoint attempt. Bouldery crux into a rest on the slab. Then sustained crimping with a few slopers and pocks in between to the anchor.
|
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Borland Valley | ||||||
Confluence Crags The Den | ||||||
17 | ★ Mary had a little Jamb | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bottom part is pretty eh. However, it steadily improves in rock quality as the climb goes up.
|
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Borland Valley | ||||||
The Dusk Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Eventide | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First ascent. Boulder crux move, V3/V4. Really cool, ends up into an opposing pressure double gaston with bad feet and small holds. Could be a potentially harder grade than 23.
|
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
North End Slabs | ||||||
19 | ★ The Johnny’s | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Lots of pressing
|
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19 | ★ Slab de Jour | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fell on this one a long time ago!
|
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Sycophrantic Arête | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sycophrantic | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Old school! Such wicked moves up the pocketed rock! Recommend to anyone. Though incredibly hard to onsight.
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Fri 25th Feb 2022 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Shotwell Slabs | ||||||
19 |
★★ Twelve Good Summers Variation
1
16
2
16
3
19
4
18
| 140m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Combined first two pitches. Fun climbing.
|
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Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Babylon | ||||||
Right Hand Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Random Element | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked all the moves besides the crux.
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Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Babylon | ||||||
Left Hand Wall | ||||||
17 |
★ The Groper (The Groper P1)
1
17
12m
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Classic Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Dead Go Direct/The Dead Goat Arête | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup.
|
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Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Sycophrantic Arête | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Climb With No Name | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. All us went up to get across to the open project. This line is a good warmup for it.
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22 22/23 | ★★ Al Ritchie's Open Project (1995) | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky to grade. Suggests 24 in the old CD guidebook from 2004-2006. Though could be between 22-24. Great climbing, worked the moves on top-rope. Quite staunch climbing, very varied to typical Castledowns style.
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Sat 12th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
The Picnic Spot | ||||||
18 | ★★ Steam Punk | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start is quite boulderery. Makes it tad harder than 18.
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Sat 12th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Sycophrantic Arête | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Climb With No Name | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Cool climb. One hard sequence. Fairly burley and pumpy.
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Thu 10th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
The Hauler Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ I Got The Whiskey Baby | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool crossover move.
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Thu 10th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Politics Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Sad State of the Socialist State | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super hard steep slab! Very hard for the grade!
|
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16 | ★★ Slip-Slop-Splat | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The triple mantle boulder problem 😂
|
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Tue 8th Feb 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Bolt City | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second redpoint attempt. Climbing through the crux, foot popped. Have to come back to Dunedin for a day to send this…
|
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24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Messed up my beta going into the last crux. Instead of moving the crimp to bump up, I crossed over with my right hand, couldn’t make room on the crimp to get right hand up to the smaller crimp before the big move.
|
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24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Feeling the moves.
|
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Tue 8th Feb 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Southern Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Shady Rest | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat for warmup. Real nice line this one, incut crimps all the way up.
|
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18 | ★★ Ride the Spiral | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slabby goodness
|
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Mon 7th Feb 2022 - Borland Valley | ||||||
Confluence Crags The Watchtower | ||||||
23 | ★ Energetic Disassembly | 18m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Not worth the risk. Stupidly bolted.
|
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23 | ★★★ Low Voltage | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Keep falling on the same spot… just one more sequence then the rest jug… pumpy as!
|
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Thu 27th Jan 2022 - Diamond Lake | ||||||
Hotline Corner | ||||||
18 |
★ Hey George P1
1
18
15m
| 15m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 27th Jan 2022 - Diamond Lake | ||||||
Diamond Slab | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Naked on the Neve (Naked on the Neve P1)
1
20
15m
| 15m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just did the first pitch, second looks pretty average. For a 20 slab would expect something bit trickier, not to difficult.
|
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Thu 27th Jan 2022 - Diamond Lake | ||||||
Pencil Dick Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Stick It In | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Splitter bolted crack. Lots of jamming, super pumpy, great holds.
|
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22 | ★★★ Take No Prisoners | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic, flash pumpy goodness! Techy face climbing on solid edges.
|
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18 | ★ Drop In, Drop Out | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warmup. Nice flowy route.
|
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Borland Valley | ||||||
Confluence Crags The Watchtower | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Low Voltage | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Blew the flash, Pumped out just before the last bolt before the anchor.
|
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Borland Valley | ||||||
Confluence Crags Split Persona Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Spin | 22m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Showing around
|
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Thu 23rd Dec 2021 - Bannockburn | ||||||
24 | ★★ Sands of Thyme | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to give it an onsight attempt before leaving. Got to third bolt. Not bad.
|
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16 | ★★ Bogan to the Bone | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Drive by check of the crag. Put a top rope up for the misses.
|
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Shotwell Slabs | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Eureka
- with
Steve Brown
1
20
35m
2
20
50m
3
17
50m
4
18
50m
5
15
35m
| 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great route! Gonna have to come back to redpoint the first pitch! 😢 foot popped off the smear..
|
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - The Chasm | ||||||
25 | ★ Roaming Warrior | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
About grade 19 to the crux. Effectively a hard boulder on a rope. No feet, big moves.
|
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19 |
★★ Contact Neurosis (Contact Neurosis P1)
- with
Steve Brown
1
19
20m
| 20m, 15 | Average | |||
16? That’s a sandbag and a half.
|
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Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Southern Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Shady Rest | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun balancing face climbing on incut crimps.
|
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18 | ★★ Weak Flesh | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Actually great quality. Good flowy moves.
|
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Thu 18th Nov 2021 - Castledowns | ||||||
The Shelf | ||||||
23 | ★★ Omelette | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic route, pretty boulderery with pockets, slopers, jugs, sidepulls, and a mantle or two. Great quality. Stoked to send this after tearing the hamstring on it couple months back.
|
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Thu 18th Nov 2021 - Castledowns | ||||||
The Picnic Spot | ||||||
18 | ★★ Girl On A Swing | 11m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another ol lap of Girl on a Swing. Quality Castledowns test piece.
|