Routes in Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island for selected grade

Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off.

1. About 40m further left is a grassy bank. On the left is a slabby rock band, and this is the start. Climb the slab via small ledges and bridging near the top to a large grass covered bank and tree belay on left. Not much pro.

2. A difficult to find and strenuous start on the face below an overhang till a jug can be reached. Climb up to overhang (cams), then traverse left on small holds till the roof can be turned via a jug and small ledge. Head right to grassy ledge and belay off small tree.

3. Head up and right to large mantleshelf ledge (peg). Continue right and up over small sloping ledges (nuts and a bolt) till a tree covered bank is reached. At the next wall step left onto a shallow corner (bolt) and follow up and right to large flax and bolt belay. Can be climbed as two pitches to reduce rope drag.

4. Climb straight up past two bolts then tend left to a bulge with a crack underneath. Step left past the hangered bolt and continue up, moving with difficulty past another bolt. Finish by jamming up a large crack to an airy bolt belay.

5. Named “Numb Nutties Traverse”, head left (past a poor excuse for an expansion bolt from the first ascent) around awkward bulges till a belay stance can be reached.

6. Climb up on easy sloping slabs and cracks to the summit. Although there are a number of bolts, a full rack of natural gear, especially cams, is necessary. Try and pick out the route from the carpark, as the line is not always obvious. Plenty of big wall atmosphere, especially on the higher pitches.

From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It.

Cool sling thread feature on the arete

Sit start in the right hand roof, pull though onto the face and traverse to the left stay low though the harder part and straight out up to the finish.

Sit start. Match on the jug in the large crack. Head straight up with a big move and then follow the nice holds to the left.

Traverse left to right along the juggy lip and finish past Free Range.

Sit start matched on prominent juggy crack down and right. Move out left to traverse along seam and top out. Avoid topping out early - try to get to the left end of the seam before topping out.

Problem is located to the left of Butternut, down the embankment.

Sit start and find a way to climb the crack.

Match on the arête. Move up the right side.

Match on the long juggy ridge. Leap between jugs or include a few crimps to top out on the right.

Start by matching your hands on the trail while smearing on the wall. Take the left pull and use the good jugs to climb the rock.

Stand start with hands on the arete. Walk your hands along the slopy arete while making use of foot holds as they come along. Top out to the left of the peak.

Great fun for the whole family.

Start from the corner and traverse the route

Start matched on the small ledge. Rock up to the pocket and find your way to the top.

Traverse from the far left to the far right.

Sit start while matching on the jug and climb to the top.

Same easy slab on small wires as The Potarta, but traverse across the dish to the arete, instead of following the direct line up the flaring crack. Next, mantle up onto the shelf and finish on the shared anchor with Over the Mountain.

Up the blast hole to a ledge and steep face.

Follow the crack over a small roof then finish at the anchor of Morning Coffee.

Up blocks and ledges to gain the small roof block, then jam straight up the crack.

Steep bouldering start to the ledge around grade 18. Alternatively start 3m from the right then walk across the ledge around grade 16. Follow the right facing crack behind the block then climb the face to the anchor.

Climb to the anchors between "Swan Lake" and "Canadian Summer (M5)". Trad gear all the way, bouldery finish either up the crack (which is protectable with large cam/s) or the arete.

I'm still investigating a possible sport route on the left face to the anchors, needs some cleaning of the choss, don't climb this section in the meantime!

Named after Maungarei and the mokomoko (Māori for skink), there are many around the crag and the two first climbers looked like mokomoko clambering up through the crack or over the arete.

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

Start in the corner, then move right onto the face, then up through the bulge.

Bare walls make bridging a necessity without mixed tools. Things get easier the higher you go, clip the 3rd bolt with your gate facing outwards. The final face proves tricky, but you can walk off the top to enjoy the strange landscape up above.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M4

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

The groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to the ledge on the right, then the arete above.

Up the groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to a ledge on the right, then up and left of the old fixed ring piton to broken ledges. Tend rightwards up thin cracks to finish.

Start up the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, past the old fixed ring piton (treat this with extreme suspicion) and up the wide crack above.

A bridging classic that saw some long falls before the single piton at half height was replaced by 3 bolts. Not quite a sport climb - a good wire protects the moves up to the first bolt.

A bouldery start gets you up into the groove, moving left at the block. Continue leftwards and up over ledges to the Sheerlux anchors. An alternate finish (21) moves right at the top of the groove, up to the Load It For Me anchors.

The deep fire-blackened corner and crack, to the anchor on top of the ledge at halfway. For an extension, continue upwards and right from there at about grade 15 to the rap rings above, or up and left to the anchor above Load It For Me.

Value for money, with 3 cruxes. Climb the low groove to the ledge (crux 1). From the ledge, jam or bridge over the slight bulge (crux 2) and continue up the easier angle slab/crack/groove combination above. Then climb through the bulge and crack (crux 3) to the top. Deserves a star.

Climb to the ledge at the bottom of the corner and crack. Proceed up past the blast hole on the left, then tend right onto the arete and face, up to the ledge. This route has also been climbed entirely using the arete, with the crack for protection only (22). It is possible to traverse carefully to the anchors of Bad Behaviour or Silver Surfer / Orangutang from the top of this, but beware of loose rock above.

Hard start direct into the groove (the ledge on the right is out). Climb the crack to the hanging block then exit left to the anchor above Silver Surfer. Alternately, move right and up the top groove and bulge of Badfinger.

Climb the right-hand arete of Orangutang without using the cracks on either side.

Jump t prow and mantle out

The strenuous left-leaning layback crack. The start is somewhat easier than it once was with the raising of the ground level, but beware the slippery footholds.

Sit Start

Sit start from low jug

Sit start

Sit start and mantle.

Sit start foot jam, then jam or layback your way up the crack.

Sit start bunched up on jugs.

Sit/stand as low as you can and move up the arête.

Stand start the obvious right hand jug and left hand crimp with a high heel and foot. Rock over and exit right up the dull arête.

Pinch the two slopers and work your way up.

Aptly named after Auckland's outdoor gym. Climb the layback crack with your feet on the left hand side boulder.

Sit start and climb up the arête then traverse along the jug rail and exit next to Lulu Lads.

Climb the slopey arête. Don't fall.

An unusual looking groove with bolts on the right wall. Scramble to the ledge at the base of the groove then climb up the groove, which is steeper than it looks and at the 4th bolt step onto the wall. Continue up past 5th bolt to tree belay.

For an easier option, climb just left of the last two bolts at about grade 17

Start up a tricky little face with jams on your right and the arete on your left. Tackle the steepness and a couple difficult moves until you can gain the ledge before finishing up the same line and anchors for Angel of Calcutta.

Access is best at low tide, though you can probably traverse in if the tide is higher.

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

A rising traverse, start as for "C.J.D Arete" and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on "J.E.M." and continue up "J.E.M."

Second pitch of "Polly, International Terrorist".

From the belay climb straight up past the first bolt and traverse left after the second bolt to the arête. Then straight up past the last bolt to DBC.

The face to the right of the off width. Move right from the off width, clipping the first bolt and stepping on to the face. Move straight up the seam and traverse left to the belay. Be mindful of potentially loose blocks above the buttress.

Second Pitch of 'I Hear The Devil Calling Me'.

From belay move up and right over easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Climb the easy arête above to the DBC belay.

Sustained route straight up the face of the pillar with balancy moves towards the top.

To the right of the gully, the steep wall with prominent crack systems. Follow a leftward slanting crack up through a bulging blocky section stepping right when the crack runs out and then to the top.

To the right of the hand crack, at the foot of the first crack is a large sharp rock from which the first bolt can be clipped. Climb out of the overhang to the second bolt and belay off the pohutakawa tree above.

Sit start in the middle of the face using the variety of holds on offer then head right and over the bulge.

Multiple variant betas for this line, the tall man, the delicate & precise and the wrong beta you chose.

Climb the face only, arete is out. Crimp at half height near the arete is in. Alternative Baldwin, Sit start with left hand on side pull in crack and right hand in pocket. Stand up to large slopey crack, match top jug on right to finish.

sit-start using left under-cling and right sloper.

Sit start pull to the top cracks either side are out

Staring from the blocky ground right of Burch St Fairy traverse left to the blocky ground left of Angry red dwarf. Big rocks touching the ground are in for feet.

Caution - lots of loose rock. Be careful Sit start, feet on 1 and 2. left hand on 3 right hand on sloper crimp 4. Only use lower part of 5 side pull. Finish on 6.

Stand start on obvious edges climbing up to match top. Slab to the right is out.

Use the slab face and arete only to gain the top

Use the slab and face only to gain the top, arete and crack are out. Helps to be tall.