Routes in North America for selected grade

12 bolts + 2 reunión con permanentes (08/22)

"Veinte años después" es un diedro. Es buena ruta para principiantes.

Climb a short face to a short slab to a bulge. Pull the bulge/roof to a ledge to the right. Then up and left over another bulge, then right to the anchors.

Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top.

Belay the second from the top.

Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century"

There are a pair of bolted lines up a left-facing wall, this is the left-most of the two of them.

This goes at about 5.9 if you stay on the face the bolts are on, but somewhat easier if you move into the corner to the left. Probably about 5.7 if climbed to the left.

Climb easily to a high first bolt, then follow the glue-ins past a couple small roofs using a sharp arete.

Name-stone at base.

Climb up the ramp out of the gorge, staying along the arete. Nice climbing with beautiful views.

P1. 5.7 20m, 4 bolts

P2. 5.7 45m, 8 bolts (don't stop at the first anchor -- this is just an intermediate rap station)

P3. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts

Pitch 3 Variation: 5.10c climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location.

NOTE: The trail from the car park IS the way to go as per the update on Quickdraw Publications. Its is a well maintained trail with just a shitty move on scree slope but totally safe, much quicker than walking the same distance and then raping. If for whatever mysterious reason you want to rap, the rap station is 5 meter left of the chains from top of start check as per pic below. Can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope or 3 with a 60m. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE extremely likely that someone is climbing it and you will be on their way, rock fall possible from the top, and its 4 raps instead of 3 if you chose the rap station

Has a metal plate with the name on it. Tiene placa de metal con el nombre.

really fun moves, lots of footholds. movimientos divertidos, muchas pisaderas.

Sit start from the two sloping crimps under the arete. Climb up the arete.

One of the best 5.9 routes in the Valley! This stunning route can be identified by the twin crack system of the second pitch just left of the bear bins. Amazing climbing. Most parties rap at the top of the 5th pitch using double ropes. A 70m rope will need to be extended to reach on the first rap (top of 5th pitch).

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

• 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
• 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)↪
• 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05 ↪
• 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
• 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
• 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
• 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
• 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
• 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
• 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
• 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
• 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55 ↪
• 2007-10-4 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30 ↪
• 2007-10-8 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
• 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33 ↪
• 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05 ↪
• 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45 ↪
• 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46 ↪
• 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44 ↪
• 2018-06-06 : Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell : 1:58:07 ↪

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

Es la primera ruta de derecha a izquierda, hay algunas varillas oxidadas en el inicio de la ruta.

A nice lead, though many seem to skip the first bolt, and start right of it to climb to 2nd bolt.

Ruta establecida en trad, la primera sección por Adrian Elizondo El Pirulo y la extensión sección por Carlos Flores El Russo tmbn en Trad. Paco Medina equipó la ruta de manera deportiva.

Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.

1. Pull a short crack move to trees and roots pulling until a second, somewhat longer, crack.

2. Climb up a broken crack system to baseline ledge. Consider climbing the obvious hand to off-width crack listed as 'St. Bernard P1' instead.

3. The long obvious hand-crack. Belay just above a bulge. Keep a #3 for the anchor.

4. Step up and right, following discontinued cracks to a chimney-like feature with a crack inside. Belay off of a combination of cams, bush and slung flake.

5. Climb up the shallow cracks to a steep hand crack. Belay off of a tree or (70m) link to the top.

6. Wander up the slab and move left to a low angle crack with a high first step. Belay off of a tree.

Descent:

Recommended

Rappel off of calculus crack's anchor into the gully (4x 30m) ;

Or

Exposed

Scramble up a short right-leaning crack to a ledge below 'Karen's Math' and wander up the gully to the right. Keep going right to broadway ledge and descend along the south trail.

2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams

Starts from a tree up the same 3rd class ramp as Munginella, but after having traversed further across the ledge the ramp reaches. Or can be reached from right as well by descending, then re-ascending around the foot of the cliff.

Buldercito en el principio.

5.7 hand crack with V at top to ledge; move left a few feet then 5.9 fingers crack to second anchor.

Crag classic with medium to long line-ups on weekends.

Via super clasica para principiantes. Recomendado limpiar en rappel. Aunque recién le cambiaron mallones y ya tiene cadena ecualizada

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8coFezk1OE

Second route going up the staircase.

Bolt route squeezed in between "Ethics Police" and "Mr Clean". Occasionally borrows holds from each.

Goes at about 5.9 if you wander around a bit. Direct finish, up the smooth slab, probably harder, maybe 5.11ish?

Jug haul on slab. Ideal route to practice your multipitch technique. Runs up just to the left of "Evil Shenanigans".

Anchor to the right of Hot Chocolate (from the bottom, to the right of the tree if you're looking out at the ocean)

Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top.

Listed as 5.9+ in the (Ed's) book, the route setter (Dane Bass) calls it an honest 5.8.

(Dane's book lists it as 5.9) The name of the route is written with red ink (hard to find).

Bolt line left of "Ethics Police".

High first bolt, but could maybe take gear at start?

Beware the top half of this climb gets hard fast and it can be tempting to travel off route to the sides. Beware, if you travel too far this could result in a nasty swing if on lead.

~9 bolts to a set of quick clip lower off shuts for anchors.

Hebrada - Runout P1: 9 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: 9 bolts R.

Cuidado, hay roca suelta al final del tercer largo. La última reunión está ubicada dentro del canal de 4ta clase.

Watch for loose rock from last bolt to summit. Last anchorblocated in the 4th class canal.

La bajada - Descent

El segundo largo tiene una reunión intermedia (maillones) para cordadas con cuerda de 60m.

Second pitch has an intermediate anchor (mailons) for parties using 60m ropes.

Si tu cuerda es de 70m, usar la reunion que tiene un aro y cadena conectando los dos anclajes.

If your rope is 70m,use the anchors which has a ring and chain joining both anchors.

A cool start up a massive stalagmite leads to large stalagtites to the top.

Climb the bolted face between the chimney and the crack.

Juggy climbing through stalagtites leads to the top.

Starts on the right face of the big corner and continues up the arete.

A steep face with good holds to the first bolt, then a tough pull onto the slab (crux), to the 2nd bolt. Easy climbing from there onwards, with good gear, to the anchors.

Label stone at bottom.

This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.

1. 4 bolts + anchor

2. 4 bolts + anchor

3. 10 bolts + anchor

4. 4 bolts + anchor (long or alpine draws recommended)

5. 2 bolts + anchor (~20m walk / scramble on the ledge to the base of P6)

6. 15 bolts + anchor (some bolts can be skipped since a lot of them are very close together)

7. 1 bolt + anchor

P1 & P2 can be easily linked with a 60m rope, and you still have 5~7m of rope left.

P6 & P7 can be linked in one go with a 60m rope (barely 2~3m left) as long as you build the anchor on the first point (there are 4 anchor at the top at least).

Great rock great jams great pro crux at the bottom

Climb up along a broken left-facing corner feature.

Lovely route. Goes up for 5 bolts, then angles leftward.

La via más clásica de pericos favorita de principiantes e invitados.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVGiDV2fo70

Buena via para calentar! Recomendado 1 o 2 cintas largas

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e_PpoMmLnA

Climb the bolt line up the face left of "Pull Up".

A bit run-out from the last bolt to the anchors - a small gear placement might add confidence.

Fun, featured slab, probably a bit easy for 5.9

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

1. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts.

2. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9.

3. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.

Ruta que comienza justo a la derecha del bloque y el árbol. Primera placa elevada.

Start right of "Make It So" pull some interesting moves to the first bolt. Cruize upwards trending left into the mini-roof at the 3rd bolt. Pull straight up though the mini-roof and gain the slab (crux) and then enjoy the somewhat sustained slab to the anchors. Crux can be avoided by heading left into the dihedral at the 3rd bolt (5.9)

P1: 5.8, 35 mts, 8+R. P2: 5.9, 25 mts, 4+R. P3: 5.10, 30 mts, 8+R.

no olvides tus nudos en las puntas

1. 130ft (5.6) Up into an awful tight squeeze chimney. Maybe a better alternative is to start 20 foot right and climb up through blocks. Belay on massive ledge with massive bolts and chains.

2. 100ft (5.8) Move across to the chimney and double crack system. Ignore the chimney on the left with the bolt (that’s “Black Sun”). Instead, on the right is a double crack system, the left crack is probably best. Climb over some loose blocks at the top to a comfy ledge with bolts and chains.

3. 100ft (5.9) Layback up the corner, the crack widens and you move into and find a bolt, the crack narrows and you’re forced out for the crux which is protected by a bolt, you’ll stem with thin footholds and gratefully reach a large calcite hold for your left hand. More wide crack/chimney above before being forced out on to the right face just before the belay, bolts and chains.

4. 80ft (5.8) The obvious line is straight up the off-width crack. However, easier climbing up right to join the North Chimney route, climb flakes up to rappel chains.

When looking at the East Wall, this is the obvious, nearly straight up and down, bottom-to-top crack line. When you see it, you know it. Climb the crack. Keep climbing it.

Climb the well featured slab between the tree and the arête.

Ruta establecida en trad por Carlos Flores El Russo. Necesita mantenimiento en la reunión y preferentemente elevar la reunión unos metros para evitar la fricción

First climb to the RHS.

The roof with monster jugs and the accessible grade make this one of the most popular routes of the area.

The left-most bolted route.

The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing.

Ultima via hacia la Izq. Armada por Marcelo Gonzalez. cuidado con bloques sueltos a la izquierda de esta via.

Ruta al lado izquierdo de Parasiempre.

Has name plate.

Start 10m right of Rob's Route. This previously mixed climb had bolts added in 2018, eliminating the need for gear but the 1st bolt is very high. For shorter people, the crux at the last bolt feels more like 10a/b. Belay from chains above the leaning cedar. P2 of "Balk and Chalk" (25 m, 5.8, 10 bolts) starts at this anchor and is a great way to finish.

Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof.

Featured slabby start, steepening towards the anchors

crack narrows from hands to fingers as you climb, then gets very thin when you approach the anchors. Most climbers commit to the awkward off width on the left wall when the main crack thins out. Gear gets very thin at the top.

The first route outside gully right, just left of Impatience. Make some steep moves with large holds and tricky feet to a ledge near a large block. Finish left using a finger crack to anchor.

Blocky features lead to a ledge which turn into a bunch of sidepulls (Warning as of 05/20,the fourth bolt is missing on this climb)

Same line as Exposure with bolts slightly to the right of the trad line.