Ascents in Oceania as Red point by Brendan Heywood

This is neat, deserves another star. Delicate start and the more moves you do the easier it gets so just keep shuffling! Feels pretty soft for a gara 23

Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.

Send! Stoke is high. Executed the bouldery first section perfectly in 2 mins. Then took me around 6 tentative goes up and down over 25 mins to get comfortable with the 5th clip and then slapped and thrutched my way to freedom. It did not climb the way I'd visualized.

Where has the rope solo tick type gone??

Glad to finally get on this and send after its long incubation period, got it 3rd go

Should scrub up with traffic into an ok little route, still the odd loose bits. The start is nice.

Warmup

Setup kids toprope

The old sling at the top was totally ghetto

First go wasn't sure where to pop to the letter box, got it second go. A mist of fine bugs

Had a brief mini tantrum after discovering my harness was ... not present. Textbook hand jams, a delightful warmup.

Really nice and naturally clean

Benji and Ben went earlier and I knocked off mid arvo and trundled up stylishly late. They'd had a solid session and Ben had already cracked the crux which is just sick. Benji had a go at leading up the first slab and roof crack pitch. Apparently they'd had an epic cleaning session and it showed. After Benji retreated I had a go and "flashed" it. The caveat is I had been on this on our very first session here but I had retreated from the sea of choss, loose dinner plates, and since trundled death boulders.

Benji reckons its a legit flash because it's genuinely so different. It actually climbs well with a fun left hip stretching move through the bulge. Apparently there is a cave I need to explore in there which I completely missed.

A mysterious new bolt has appeared at the start to replace to one which has been missing for two decades

Super long send train, I think we had 8 people queued up along this thing!

Love the nose moves on this

So much fun failing

Fun jugs and slopers with a few campus moves

Felt great, hit the dyno perfect on the first time for the first time (instead of slapping, fall, catch, re-adjust and go again) and then moved to the roof jugs statically. Had an explore through the next 4 or so moves before splashing down

Jumped on to warm up, was a little blase and almost fell off a meter in. Also dabbed the water as I rounded the crux. Should Dab be a legit DWS tick type? I guess it doesn't benefit you like it would touching a pad, but it is also a gauge of quality so why not?

Watched Benji clutch desperately at what he said was not a good hold and decided to give try it, lo and behold I stuck it and wicked stoked to unlock the next couple meters to the super juicy birds nests.

The start is fairly crumbly but better after about 10m. Gets nicer at the top

Not sure if I've done this before but this route is great

Pretty sure I've done this yonks ago, brilliant sustained jams and very happy to do it clean. Somehow managed to completely munt a rigid stem friend about half way up, it's now a permanent feature All three of us had a go at retrieving it.

Onsight foiled by an exploding hold but would have had this. Fun little roof moves

Waited for a while and warmed up on the woodie and then got this first try. Cold and windy

Great little climb until the end and then a gross dirty scramble to the top. Crack gloves felt perfect

A sweet beast, improbably good rock and features. Got to the missing square and then headed left into a little chip. Next obvious goal is to keep linking to the swallows nest

Cruisy lead, loose block scared the hell out of me even though I knew it was there

BOOM! Finally cleaned this up. This was the second route I ever tried after moving to tassie and it's spat me off ever since. Happy christmas!

Well if I wasn't pumped already then I was now. Still got up it clean, good for my stamina

"Warmed up", ie flash pumped, but still got up it clean

Happy to tick if first go again. So juggy

Nailed it. Pumped and happy

Bouldered on a driftwood platform after a flood which was then later washed away

Ran a few laps on this it was so good