Routes as trad in Oceania

Face into finger crack - then over the top block. 4FH's plus some gear.

On the upper tier, downstream of the old car stuck up in the cliff. Rap in from DBB above, using the line as a belay anchor.

One of the best in the gorge. An incipient crack on the left offers good protection.

Bolted arete to the R of Gabriel. Originally led with only a single bolt. DBB.

bolts have been replaced as of June 2022.

Take a micro cam for the top

Pillar with 3 eye bolts. Take some wires for the top crack. DBB

Gnarly short finger crack. Do a few face moves and then power and thrutch and smear your way up the remaining thin crack. Good gear but a bit beta intensive to place.

Roof crack on the eastern end of the crag. Easy start into overhanging fist crack, then a 5m hand crack through the roof, with a hanging slab just before the lip. Turning the lip is the crux. Be careful of the rope jamming in the crack.

3 classic corners stacked on top of one another, broken up by comfy belay ledges. Currently the hardest multi-pitch on the mountain. Take plenty of small gear including a full set of RPs.

1. 25m 25

2. 25m 25

3. 15m 25 Crux pitch

4. 25m 21 Step left and continue up the flared crack, or continue direct up the dirty hand crack (19).

Thins seam up the wall just left of Rondeau

One of the best steep cracks anywhere in Australia. The first pitch is Tassie's answer to Trojan and the second is a rarely done but worthwhile 22 bolted face pitch.

1. 30m (25) Up the obvious steep crack in the middle of the cliff. Brilliant gear and moves trend gradually rightwards to finish at a DBB.

2. 20m (22) Up the face on good but slightly dirty rock.

Climbs the left leaning crack from the big guano patch up onto the orange wall then head back right 5m and out to the barbarella anchor.

On the first buttress climb boldly up thin flake to a peg in the break, small cam also, then hard over bulge.

Start as for Holly Grail and climb the thin crack to ledge and BB below The Hourglass corner.

The direct finish to Where in the Stain is Snedn, up the amazing soaring arête.

1. 20m 20 - As for Where in the Stain is Snedn.

2. 30m 25 - Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases.

3. 30m 22 - Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb.

Follow the right crack to a hard, strenuous move over the small roof. Well protected.

Straight up the rad hand crack before a desperately cruxy right hand traverse via the obvious juggy undercling to finish up Light Fingered Maddison

Mixed bolts and gear.

Climbs left arete of Alchemy Wall via some bolts and wires. Moves right at second bolt above rooflet and back towards the arete for gear and more holds. Gear anchor set a long way back from the top

An amazing pitch of climbing. Single bolt hanging belay just above the water. A tricky steep crack leads to some easy climbing and an exposed and exciting traverse left around the arete and up to the belay for P2 of Exocet. Finish either by climbing Exocet or NMMNG.

An incredible and inspiring diagonal line that packs a punch. Sustained jamming and laybacks all the way. Micro cams, finger sized cams and small to medium wires. Take a #4 and #5 BD cam for the belay plus a few cordelettes to extend the anchor if you want to top rope it.

Start up hand crack, double rack of #1-3 to gain bolts in the blank corner. Follow these up and right through the roof. Cutting back left and up.

An incredible pitch.

Abseil 30m from the DBB at the start of ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ to another DBB below a roof on a sloping ledge. Climb through the roof on its right and into a finger / hand crack. Follow this until the bolts, trending left and climb the side of the arete to the anchors. Finish up either ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ or start the traverse into ‘The Pud Life’ to exit.

Recommended gear; cams #0.3 to #2 with extra #0.4 and #0.5, a black offset nut, and at least 9 quick draws.

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap: IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

1. 15m, 24, 2 bolts -Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

2. 30m, 25, 1 bolt - Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

3. 30m, 23 - Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

4. 25m, 18 - Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

1. 25m (25) This pitch doesn't get done much since Deep Play was established, the latter being easier with much lower ropedrag and admin.

2. 40m (25) This is the "money pitch". Mostly Bolts (about 8), a few pieces of trad gear where the climbing is easier.

The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH.

The way to do it. Climb via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt. DRB.

Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack left of Adolf. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small cams required.

Short finger and laback crack below Endorphin. A couple of bouldery moves, small/medium wire protects the middle.

Ends on ledge, or link into Endorphin!

Possibly 24 if your tall with small fingers.

Starting on the right side of the chasm, follow seams (wires) to bolts on face. Traverse right into (somewhat concerning) undercling flake after clipping the 3rd bolt, then blast up the right arete past 3 more bolts to the top.

Start up Resurrection Shuffle until you can traverse right to the finger crack. Tight finger jamming leads to the top.

Rap in from two carrots (hangerless expansion bolts) at head of the amphitheatre. Goes on gear with one carrot. Two FHs for belay.

The first 10m is gear protected, the remaining is fully bolted.

Wild line on natural pro, taking the mot prominent crack line immediately left of OFTG. Hard, technical start to gain crack at 4m

Follow the crack heading slightly right to first bolt, continue up the face to an exciting finish. 5 bolts plus trad protection for the lower 1/3 (small nuts and cams up to .75 BD C4).

An obvious natural weakness that starts underneath 'The Hat' and traverses up and left underneath 'Battery Acid' and finishes as per 'Mic Drop'. Bring plenty of cams, and be aware of rope drag.

Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête. Upgraded to 25 based on consensus.

Start up 'The He Men of Yesteryear' and traverse R to a bolt. Straight up past 2 more bolts.

The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer.

Start up the crux seam as for Green Room, after this instead of going left, trend up fun crack on the right to slab up top. Up the slab and mount final bulge with finger crack in it. Great gear and a much better finish to Green Room

Prominent left trending seam and crack. From the road it's the most obvious line at Greenly. Hard fingers to start, great stemming, jamming and lay backing to finish.

Up the crack right of S.F.P. Attempted by Mark Witham & Hamish Meffin in the 1980s before lowering off fixed wire, which still remains. A core intensive layback leads to tough jamming and a rather dynamic crux. Stay off the right hand wall. Great gear at the bottom leads to a fixed wire, followed by 2 bolts in the crux section. Mixed route, 2 bolts + chains.

Follows prominent right facing corner stepped by roofs to a set of chains.

A stellar line up the beautiful overhanging face through the horizontal breaks, take RPs, a double set of cams from 0.2/00 to 0.4 and triple up on 0.3. Start up the blunt lay back then wend your way through the breaks following the protection. Over the easy slab then ooze onto the face right of the finishing crack of TotKP. A route you won’t forget.

The striking hanging corner to the left of Light Sabre. Small cams and an attentive belay essential for the start. The first moves as per Light Sabre then traverse left on breaks. An audacious move across the void (don’t look down at the rock spike) to the corner brings gear and some relief. The corner and crack through the rooflet above followed by an easy face then jamb through the curving crack in the orange headwall.

Start in the obvious corner below the stepped roof, break right and launch through the stepped rooves on the right with long moves up to the ‘morgue’, harder moves lead to easier ground and the final thin corner.

Starts directly in front of the big block at the base of the wall, 2m R of Armstrong's obvious crackline. Follow the left leaning line, finishing out through the slot at the top.

The only line of bolts at Crag X. Finishes at chains on ledge.

Climbs the semi bolted line to the left of the 2nd pitch of hangover layback. Bouldery start past a few bolts and finish at chains left of Hangover Layback's second belay. Originally equipped by Dave Bowen.

1. 25m (16) The easiest line on the left side of the slab underneath Guru Wall. DBB.

2. 25m (25, 16A1) Clip a bolt, make sure your belayer is tied down. Hard moves past 2 bolts to easier ground. Up arete with spaced bolts and occasional gear. Tunnel through groove to right of the anchor of Everybody dies alone to DBB on big exposed ledge. Abseil possible from here.

3. 18m (22) Crazy exposed traversing pitch. Plug in some cams then continue past four bolts to hanging belay at the Meditations anchor.

4. 12m (17) Up headwall past a bolt to DBB. Abseil 50m to ground.

Bolts on pitch 2 and anchor of pitch 3 are showing their age.

Incredible and sustained climbing in an outrageous position and surely one of the best routes at the grade anywhere! The bolted line to the left of Fingernickin. Up the corner to a bolt then up past another bolt to the cam break, traversing leftwards to a hands free stance. Take a deep breath and quest up the magical arete past 5 bolts to a loweroff. A 70m rope will get you to the ground with stretch but make sure to tie a knot!

Start from ledge under rooflet. Hard boulder past two bolts to a rest, up to an overlap at 10m and another bolt. Gain this, then trend right and quest up face on gear to rap anchor.

50m rap to ground, an 80m rope can get you to the ledge above.

The logical and sustained linkage of Cross Purpose start into Space Madness. A brilliant pitch of varied climbing.

Abseil Chains now in place .

Crack through roof right of Loaded Bowel, with one bolt.

Burly and a bit loose just like the dog himself. Climb up HANDIOTNZ to the third FH then up 1.5m R over roof (#2 cam and small sling where there is a small plant) to a pocket and good small wires - use a long sling. A neat dynamic crux up R of these past the FHs on MC and finish at the rings.

Fine climbing up an overhanging face crack. Good gear. Up the crack till it ends, diagonally R and immediately back L into the line and on. Alternatively, from where the crack ends go L to a shake on the arete, up it for a few moves then traverse back R into the line.

The name comes from early footage of the route, which is the funniest climbing video ever seen. The hard looking arete above Psychobabble with 4 FHs and another on the continuation above. Start 1.5m L of Psychobabble off the block.

A great climb with a rare roof, starts around the corner. Initially half climbed by the route Excalibur, which climbed the roof on Aid and finished up PAS. Up the crackline past a 3.5 friend and a powerful move at the lip, then slightly L to a FH on the bulge. Climb R of this to a excellent runout finish. May be harder after a major hold broke of in the 90s.

Superb sustained climbing up a beautiful line. Scotts finest hour. Starts 2m R of MC, 5 carrots (fully threaded and overdriven) to natural gear. Take a wire to clip the 2nd bolt if your short. It's about a 21 to the FH and the route gets morning shade.

This climb will have you thinking of the Arapiles.

1. 20m 25 Up the immaculate orange crack, over the bulge to the ledge. Follow the easy corner to the large ledge and DBB.

2. 30m 22 From the ledge step out onto the headwall and follow the large weakness through a series of roofs to finish at a large tree and natural belay. Well featured rock on the top half of this pitch.

Start up Fairy Dust, then follow arching crack with committing moves on natural pro. Large gear useful. Finish above pod below anchor of Townsvillians.

Starting at the anchors of Cognition. Climb the sustained crack on R to the top and move L to a rest. Up the tricky face to wide exit and ledge with DRB. It's best to avoid the semi-hanging belay by having the belayer on the ground.

One of the best routes at Juicy Buttress and is also the hardest with plenty of excellent gear. Follow the white overhanging crack, moving left to pod then right into the hanging orange corner. Trend left past the roof onto the steep slab to finish. Set up a natural belay or use the PPJ chains.