Ascents in Thailand as Red point or First free ascent

Repeat

爬完两条线之后通赛海滩上就没人了，都屈服于正午的日晒。为了攀岩保持体型，没法吃太多，我们浅吃了一些薯片，椰子干，美式，木瓜鲜虾沙拉，泰式炒河粉。之后决定在海滩的阴凉岩洞那小睡一下午觉。睡觉需要地席，我去买地席准备掏钱的时候看了一眼表已经下午三点半了，末班长尾船是6点，看来睡不了一点儿了。我们来到西海岸的火墙开始爬，我挂完线下来的时候问：你说暴露感的反义词是啥？包围感？结果得到了一个意外的答案：私密性。好吧，这条烟囱线应该是我目前爬过的私密性最好的线了，左边右边前面后面全是墙，又是撑又是踹，两次爬下来beta绝不会一样。到顶了之后回头看海心旷神怡。

两把红线/cuan死我了。这条线居然没有年度on简直让我不能接受，更不能接受的是我红了之后发现之前已经红过了。我去年觉得有三个难点，真的好难，在有树那个地方墨迹了很久。今年有俩难点已经不是难点了，加上和潘佬熟了之后近朱者赤，看见树就先踩一脚，谁知道那个树看似碗口般粗壮，实则宛如练过瑜伽，柔软无比根本踩不了，挂脚挂在树上可能可以，但我毕竟不是潘佬，干不出这种事来，遂take。我觉得甲米的线手脚点很近，又仰，cuan死我了。

Fun stuff begins from the hand-foot match. Close onsight but the last hueco hold caught me by surprise and remained elusive for too long.

Pretty cool movement through the crux. Work the crux sequence through 3 clips, find a really good rest, and power through the huecos.

One of the first routes on the wall to get shaded in the late afternoon. Enjoyed this.

Some really cool moves on the rope!

Sehr schöne rute mit interessanter crux. Hat sehr viel spaß gemacht zu klettern. Nach der crux schöne wandkletterei

Repeat for warm up

Wasted attempts trying it in horrible conditions. Static beta with one deadpoint. Full static beta didn't work today( You better have at least 170cm reach. Absolute classic!

Amazing route, good holds and good feet. Felt very easy for the grade.

Somehow I managed to reach the crux handhold statically on my second attempt! Getting the feet high was part of the solution.

Super Sandy. I promise to bring a big brush next time.