Routes as aid in World

5 pitches of A4 and 6 of A3+ at the first half

Read warning below. This route does have bolts with SS carrots but they are quite well spaced apart at about 5 metres so pucker factor is a major issue. Top pitches are very sparsely bolted with 20 metre run outs. As this climb is rarely done algal growth can obscure the bolts. full trad rack is also necessary. There is a 110 metre traverse on the lip of a huge roof. Ability to re ascend a rope is a must in this area for self rescue if fallen off route you'll be dangling 100 metres above the apron. Possibility of a bivy ledge one pitch above traverse ledge. Two people can squeeze on to this tight ledge. There is a descent option from the top of this climb however finding the start to the rap route is problematic. Good luck finding it. Best option is to find start at bottom. Start is around 2/3rds across left from descent gully.

Abseil descent has had it's anchors replaced as of early July 2020. All anchors are SS.

Warning.

Recent ascent by Duncan Steel. He describes the top several pitches as having deteriorated badly since he did it 15 years ago. We discussed why and we came to a consensus that the black lichen and the north facing cliff bakes in the summer sun and the skin of the rock exfoliates in the very high summer sun. This route really needs renovation and a retro bolt. Duncan warms that this climb is no trivial matter and death or very serious injury could result from anyone just turning up and having a go.

From Kept Man Belay station. Keep going and traverse into the massive roof. Finish at a picnic table ledge (aka camp III) over the lip.

A jamming problem. Clean rock, a logical line, fantastic climbing. Straight up the crack then through the overhang with some thoughtful moves. Continue directly up the slabs.

A distinctive, slightly overhung crack line. Start at the straight up hand crack that splits the wall. Go directly up the crack, absorbing cams and donker nuts. Continue up the small face at the right. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Moderate protection.

Finger jamming fun. This is behind The Spearhead. Go up. Starts left of the big boulder on the ledge above. Move up through the overhang to the ledge at the right; this section is shared with Sinbad. Go left past the tree to the finger crack and proceed up to a sexy completion with wondrous jugs. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Moderate protection.

Slippery, then gritty. Start is shared with I Feel Good. Start left of the big boulder on the ledge above. Move up through the overhang to the ledge at the right. Move left then straight up the crack. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Poor protection.

Three nuts for aid at 12m.

Final completion of old route Never ending Story (18) by Chris Cannard. Climb up and through some steep terrain past old decayed sling, and aid for 1 move through featureless roof.

TBA

'Starts on the southern side of the landing. Go up to the slight bulge, aid through the scoop on the left, then continue free to the top'

'An impressive line. Starts at the prominent crack on the north side of the landing. An awkward start, then up the line with several rests to the top'

The first pitch is excellent and the entire climb has been done on nuts. Strat up the very thin crack on the L side of the main face.

1. 44m M3 crux. Small wires all the way to the ledge.

2. 21m M3 Continue up the corner past some bad rock near the top.

Ï've told you once and I've told you twice, you'd better listen to my advice, coz this could be the last time" Still a very hard route. Take a fistful of wires, a selection of blades, and some SLCDs Strat at the incipient crack 6m R of Route 66.

1. 48m M6 Crux Follow the crack for about 24m, traverse R on the & bolts to another crack. Climb this which gets easier. Loose blocks guard the exit to a good ledge.

2. Free climb , very easy up L, mantle then traverse L and finish up the short corner.

"You can look but you'd better not touch" The scene of atleast one near disaster. The direct inspiring line which will go free. Below the Lone of the two lines in the middle of the face, L of The Last Time.

1. 36m 12M3 Crux Free into the line, aid over the overhang and past a bush to a hanging stance from a DBB on the R wall.

2. Aid to the top (beware of loose flakes) There are 4 bolts on this pitch. Be sure to go a long way back at the top. First nutted ascent was in about 1977 by Phillip Armstrong and Dave Maclean, who also removed a large amount of loose rock on the lower sections.

"She blew my nose and then she blew my mind" Has been climbed on nuts and will go free witha bit of work. At the summit of the block where all the major lines finish is a short steep wall. The thin crack is quite obvious.

1. 18m Aid the crack onto the top of the slab.

2. 18m Easy to the top of the pinnacle, then down to the Bolt belay of Hydra.

Start up Champagne and Novocaine to the overlap then climb rightwards past Boys Will Be Boys.

Major Aid climb on the left-side of the wall via a shallow corner in the smooth orange wall capped by a large roof.

Gear: 8 knifeblades, 5 Lost Arrows. 3 Baby Angles, 2 bathooks, 1 skyhook; Double Cams to 2.5 1 each larger, Rack of RPs, Rack of Nuts and tie-offs

Start: From base of major arching corner left of the middle of the wall

1. 50m (- M2) Aid corner / crack past bolts (from earlier unknown attempt) to DBB at small ledge. Thin Tie offs needed near end.

2. 50m (14 M3) Corner via BR andtie offs to narrow ledge, Tree and 2.5 cams for belay.

3. 50m (12 M5) Aid crack of left of ledge then free up and left to next ledge. Aid loose R-leading flake from L of ledge till 3m below shale band, Thin vertical crack via BR into shale then flakes, horizontals and bathooks tending L via BR to semi-hanging BB plus 1-1.5 cams.

4. 30m (15 M3) Aid through small roof then free up R along ramp to ledge. Belay at R end of ledge. DBB (one loose) plus wires and cams. Retreat from here would require tyrolean to previous belay.

5. 35m (- M5) Wall via BR's and hooks to left-most elegant arching crack. Nail crack then left across wall via hooks and BR's to reach flake, Up to HB - 2BB plus knifeblades,

6. 35m (14 M6) Slightly L for 7m via hooks, blades, BR and cams, then R via hooks to BR. Out through large roof via pins cams and BRs. (One missing -take bolt). Turn lip on large cams, then free wall to belay off cams and BR,

7. 20m (12) Wall to large ledge, Belay from wall behind ledge or tree on R.

8. -m (-) Bush-bash R along ledge for 150m to begin descent

The top pitch might be the best on the crag, shame about what it takes to get there.

Start: Start at the corner about 8-10m L of 'Dr Freeze'.

1. 30m (17) Mild. Up the corner for about 12m then onto the slab and doddle up L for 15-20m to the belay ledge and DRB. Mostly trad plus maybe a carrot or two (stainless glue-in).

2. 18m (23 M1) Sport. Good 23 climbing up to a couple of stopper moves near the top of the pitch that will be 27+. Pull on a couple of bolts.

3. 22m (21) Sport. The awesome shallow groove, beautiful sustained moves the whole way on perfect Blueys stone.

Start: Poxy diagonal crack, mostly slabby, in grey rock, about 100m R of the arete project,

Start: The chossy L-facing corner crack just L of the prominent "beak" feature.

Good. If only the corner were 10 times as long.

Start: Start as for 'Strangeness and Charm'.

1. 40m (19) Up Strangeness to ledge and tree, follow it leftwards a few metres to scoop with wires. 'Galactic Wanderer' departs Strangeness here, and trends up and right past a bolt to a double bolt belay.

2. 20m (25) (Or 21M1) Up with care to a bolt at 8m, then slightly left to the overlap and more bolts. Either aid up and left or pull impossible looking moves to the base of the dihedral (the last bolt is hidden behind a bush). Bridge up the corner (wires) to the belay.

3. 50m (21) With care up and right to a bolt, over a terrifyingly poised and dangerous flake. Up past another two bolts and trend leftwards to the belay.

4. 50m (20) Continue a leftward trend aiming for the protruding grass tree above.

The overhanging line.

1. 20m (25) Up past the overhanging block (crux) to gain the tree belay above.

2. 25m (20) Up the wall past a bolt and a series of chicken heads to hanging double bolt belay.

1. 40m (22) As for Morgan Mortimer to the stance on top of a small block.

2. 40m (21) Gain the traverse weakness out right and continue until forced to drop down to the big ledge and tree to belay.

3. 40m (22) Start right of the tree. Up on small holds for a few metres before heading left a short way. Then up and right to the belay.

4. 40m (21) (21M1) Straight up on pockets before going to aid for 5 moves because of calcified rock. Continue up over chicken heads to thread belay.

5. 35m (21) Continue up groove and flake system then horizontally right to sapling. Follow the weakness upwards before being forced to move left around an awkward groove. Hanging stance on the left with rap anchor.

Connects 'Jewel Box' to 'Coal Sack'.

1. 42m (23) Up 'Jewel Box' to hanging belay in large scoop just below the cave.

2. 50m (22) Traverse leftwards until the holds runout and you are forced to do a tension traverse to gain more holds and join the 3rd pitch of 'Coal Sack'.

3. 40m (21) (21M1) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 4.

4. 35m (21) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 5.

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

Has this had a second ascent? Covers mind boggling terrain.

Takes all the orange overhanging corners at the downstream end of the north wall. All belays are on bolts.

1. 40m (26) Start at the overhanging crack/roof and cruise through to the wall and cave above. Out over the cave lip and trend diagonally right to a bolt belay.

2. 40m (21M1) Surmount overlap and traverse left. Aid up bolts over another overlap, ho-hum, to finish up a crack and the next niche belay.

3. 30m (22) Crack and slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay.

4. 40m (23) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay.

5. 30m (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt. Traverse left at the line to gain a steep groove and bulge which leads to a belay ledge.

6. 40m (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take a leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.

An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.

Start: A chipped square marks the start.

1. 45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.

2. 45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.

3. 50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.

4. 50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.

5. 45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.

6. 30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.

7. 50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.

8. 50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. This can be freed at grade 23. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.

(18M1). "See topo" they said......this route isn't shown on The Crag topo! Details unsure, however a likely situation is that it shares the start of Red Heat before traversing right, sharing the end of the first pitch of Evolution. Keep going past Evolution's belay to to bolted belay 10m right on the same ledge (shared with Jump Master and 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'). Up the next pitch and a half of Reason for Man (passing a couple of bolts), before traversing left back across 'The Bridge'[724942089] and into Red Heat for a pitch or so to gain the large 'Evolution cave'. 'Old and Grey' then traverses left a pitch to join Scorpion to the top of the wall. Note that Old and Grey predates all the other routes on this wall. A great effort for the time, but unlikely to appeal to anyone sane these days.

Start: Start from the left end of Big Greenie. Takes the corner and arête.

1. 20m (21) From a stance on a slab cruise up the ramp to a bolt. Some slippery moves past this then up to another bolt. Up to the block and ledge with chains at the base of a corner.

2. 20m (24 M1) (24M1) Up the corner past a couple of bolts to some thin bridging (crux) and wires. Continue up the steepening corner past bolts to an overhang. Pull around this on finger pockets to a double bolt belay.

3. 25m (23 M1) (23M1) Up the sharp arête past bolts to a rest. Clip a bolt and then move up (crux) and right to easier climbing. Chain belay. Rap down.

70m right of Ankle Confidence, below obvious twin cracks leading to a fig tree and jutting prow above. 1st pitch (45m): Up easy ledge to left of line, to meet at start of cracks. Climb cracks (mainly right hand crack) to ledge. 2nd pitch (15m): Left across loose blocks, traverse, then up to hanging corner. Aid for 5m to ledge then free to large ledge. 3rd pitch has not yet been completed. Might go free at about 22.

Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.

Unknown location

The Rock's original 'big wall' climb. Start marked.

1. Cracks to ledge

2. Aid thin crack which arches L. to join main crack/chimney line.

3. Chimney-crack.

Impetuous and daring. Start 9 m R of Cutlass, below steep, L-leading line.

1. 33 m Up ramp, then R and up. Avoid overhang on L, then up to stance and belay.

2. 27 m Up to piton, then R and up steeply to ledge. Now up L to ledge, then 5 m up and L to bolt belay.

3. 30 m (crux) Up to small roof on nuts, then bolts up R. Free moves to gain further nut and bolt, then free moves R and up steep wall to piton. Up carefully to bush and blocks.

A beautiful route venturing through some steep and hostile territory. Start halfway between Virago and A Little Rainbow at a prominent straight groove/crack heading for orange overhanging pitch.

1. 30 m Scramble up slabs to large blocks at base of R facing corner-crack.

2. 45 m Corner­ crack to just below small overlap (some poor rock). Hanging belay?

3. 15 m Corner-crack to shattered blocks below roof. May be able to link this with pitch 2.

4. 20 m Free to start of crack, then aid (pitons - some in place: knife-blades, small angles) as crack dies and leans R. L over roof. Semi-hanging belay (wires) on lip.

5. 40 m Flakes to ledge below and L of end of flake. L along ledge, then slab up L to hanging belay in crack.

6. 40 m Crack until it leans L, then slab to ledge.

7. 45 m Large boulder, then crack to easier ground.

Groove in middle of clean W Face. Bolts. Two rests.

Up the wall trending right. Two pitons for aid. Start: 2m left of the descent gully.

On the northern end of the first big boulder of the Sphinx Rock group encountered from the campsite track. Free the move or stick clip the bolt to avoid the undercut start and aid up. Once you get the digits established on the rock climb up leftwards to another bolt. Then rightwards and up to the top via a sling runner. SLCD’s for the belay. Rap station descent.

Start: at the top of the East Face - LH end (looking at the cliff), a bit back from the gully, almost on the corner of the gully, down a sloping ramp.

Pitches 1) - 4) Down the ramp, abseil, then traverse to pedestal, climb down the crack, traverse with aid to Phaedra, lower 25-30m, tension (pendulum) across 18m to The AntiChrist bush(!?).

Pitches 5) - 9) Traverse Right, up cracks to Beau Brummel ledge. Easily down groove, traverse Right to small cave below the crux of ROI (pitch 3).

Pitches 10) - 12) Up Ruby Of India to the top.

Although it reverses Party Trick, there is considerable new climbing. Varied climbing, mostly free, across an exposed wall.

Phaedra is an historical and adventurous climb, first envisioned by Rick White in 1969.

To gain access, proceed up the hiker's track, past Egg Rock, to a stand of Shea-oak, just below the Central Knoll:

East Face - Phaedra access topo

Start below the obvious rooflet halfway up the wall. Either belay on the ground or off a single ring on the ledge 10m off the ground.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra - 1st belay

Cameron Fairbain,Simon Vos on ★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra

1)45m 19 - Start up the slab past a peg, angling towards the finger crack, continue up this, heading towards the hanging flake on spaced but good gear. Pull over the flake up to a belay at a sloping ledge below the rooflet.

2)15m 20 - Clip the SS carrot (hard to spot) above the belay left of 3 rusty carrots. From the belay traverse left and up the shallow groove to the left side of the overhang. Traverse right under the roof past gear and 2 pitons. Pull through the roof, to the hanging belay at 2xRBs directly above.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - pitons under overlap

3)20m 19 - Proceed up the corner, to a crack and up to the base of the headwall for a hanging trad anchor. Below the bolt ladder.

4)35m 21 M1 - Climb up the old bolt ladder (4x) on the headwall to gain the slab (20/21) above past shallow gear to follow 3 carrot bolts (left trending) on the slab in a breath-taking position to the top & 2xRB belay in alcove on left.

Gear: small to medium cams, lots of wires, plates and a skyhook.

Rick & Paul pegged their way up p1 in 1969.

Rick White, Jeff Morgan & Ron Collett freed p1 (18 by their standards) & aided the whole route in October 1971.

Paul Hoskins & Joe Lynch freed p2 in 1983 (they would have freed p3, but Joe forgot his shoes.)

Fred From & Chris Frost freed p3 in 1983.

Jon Pearson came close to freeing p4 in the late 80s, and Glen Foley almost freed it in 2007.

Has the distinction of being Australia's first 22.

Scramble/climb up the easy start next to ROI & onto the belay ledge. Starting in RH corner, trending left up weakness, then up, slightly right trending, into crack corner & up this to flaring off-width at top. Aid your way out to lip. then up over this to a good belay stance above.

Be wary of the original button bolts put in by Rick 47yrs ago; these are only 1" deep or so & hand-drilled.

Very rarely climbed, the route is rather chossy & vegetated.

(Estimates of freeing the downward flaring crack at the top start at around grade 27-28.)

Rick White in RURP September1972:

1-5) Up D2 to top terrace, walk left & belay on left ledge.

6-8) Climb down gully ca.20m (rope assist) to a traverse line. Traverse left, then up grassy corner to below crux of BB. Climb down crack (rope assist), traverse left & up to "AC" ledge.

9-11) Peg up to AC bivie bolts, lower down ca.25m & pendulum across to Phaedra bivi bolts, 8m below roof. Peg up past bolts to roof & then through roof to more bolts. Traverse left (2 pegs), lower or fall off a tied off knife blade, pendulum & tension with difficulty to bush(?). Up crack to magnificent perched belay.

12-13) Up diagonally left, through blocks. keep traversing: up short wall, then easy finish.

Ian Thomas: "Why wouldn't you want to complete the first girdle of a big exposed face, spend the night in a free hanging hammock, flail around on an 30m pendulum and scare yourself silly with hard aid?"

"Start: The white line in the buttress. Start Right of Deep Purple.

1. 30m - Up, Left and up.

2. 37m - Start in back of cave, peg out under roof, then up the white line.

3. 15m - Last 15m free climbing.

"Superb climbing and positions - the best on the buttress."

RURP July/August 1972

(unfortunately neither Ron nor Tony can recall exactly where the route exited the cave or went from there.)

Quoted from RURP:

1. "Free up 6m, then peg up corner for 9m, move Right and up to another ledge.

2. "Continue up line to another ledge.

3. "Finish up Left line - free the last 12m.

"Good mixed climbing up a fine line."

RURP July/August 1972

(Ron cannot recall the details of this route, but I would suggest that it is Right of the cave.)

Start 30m right of Deception II tree (now a blackened stump).

1. 30m 16M2 - Climb Left under block, then up. 3 Aids at 15m.

2. 34m 16 - Right, under hanging block, up corner to top.

Start: About 100m right of the N.E. Buttress (see topo of start) in the shallow corner. The initial 1st belay block is now gone.

1. 47m 18 - Up the crack/corner.

2. 25m M4 - Up Right to bolt belay.

3. 16m 16/M1 - Step Right from top nut, up, free to tree belay(?).

4. 20m 12 - Stay left of mank gully, left up ramp.

5. 12m 13 - Crack to top.

Named after they spotted a girl on horseback that day. (Length of route is an approximation only)

Trevor's original notes: "trees" may no longer exist.

Start: About the same as for TCFR. Bolts + trad.

1. 45m 17 - From large tree left of a large right leaning corner crack, up steep slab trending right to the orange wall and DBB at overhanging corner.

2. 25m 22 - Up steeply into corner (careful of loose blocks), first bolt is high & natural placements available pretty sustained up corner then onto face following bolts to DBB. The best pitch!

3. 25m 23 A1 - Up face small cam placement in crack on left, trend right towards overhang (very tricky moves through the overhang) follow to the large ledge with a tree and DBB. (This pitch is run out and will need another bolt after the lip of the overhang)

4. 25m 21 - Follow BRs to DBB. You’ll need a dozen brackets for this pitch. (pitch 3 not free as yet & open to anyone)

Start: Unknown. "Easy free crack start. Mixed free + aid."

1. 47m 14/M3 - "Left from the overhang to bolt belay."

2. 37m 15 - "Up and across Right."

3. 34m 13 - "Stay Right, avoiding the mank."

4. 12m 13 - "Crack to top."

(Trevor's notes)

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on "Grogan Road" street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

Simon and Neil initially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

Start: In front of Light Box 10, a few metres left of OLBDNSWD. Locate thin crack. Aid up this on small to medium wires to below vegetated ledge. Mantel this (BR - probably gone) to rest. Up right past aid bolt to another mantle onto a small ledge below smooth headwall and BR (probably gone). Aid up the wall past a rusty old aid bolt (still there), then traverse directly left to chains on ST. Rap off. Warning - bolts may be very weak by now. (NB: I would suggest that the aid bolts & bolt runners are now long gone, cleaned off by BCC in many rock scaling events. As of 2022, one rusty BR remains high up on this route.)

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil merely used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to the TAFE that used to reside along the top of this section of cliff.

Start: several metres left of large white landslide below, a BR. Up mank to ledge and BR. Up corner above past dodgy aid bolt and BR to below crack. Aid up this to ledge and BR. Scramble up dirt ledges to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Contrived. Up Spack Attack then traverse right and hook up edges to top.

Marked 'S'. Starts down near the first railing on the path. Walk up from the track through some grass to start. The line of four manky, horrid, rusty bolts leading to a natural seam. Some silly attempts have been made to free the route, but the bottom section is sharp and difficult.

On this L gully wall there are a couple of white streaks running down the wall. The L-most white streak up a water scoop is the first pitch of an aid climb. Rusty thin bolts, rusty pitons and 316 stainless rivets run up the climb. The climb goes to the rap chains and beyond another couple of pitches. You'll need multiple birdbeaks, hooks, RURPs, thin nailing gear, pitons, rivets, a hand drill and a bunch of other stuff...

At the far end, 75 metres left of 'Ape Chimney'. Starts at a thin crack to the right of an obvious square cut gully. Two nuts for aid then up to a ledge. Continue up a corner past a tree. May well have been freed.

The horizontal line left of 'Oleo'.

1. 25 metres (15M3) - Free up 'Oleo' and aid horizontally to a hanging belay on the left arete.

2. 15 metres (17) - Continue free along the diagonal line.

May go free one day. On the right-hand wall of 'Toadstool Rock' (start marked). Aid the very thin crack to the roof, then left to a crack and free to the top.

Sic. The beautiful overhanging seam on the downhill side of the westernmost boulders of the final group, opposite 'Sausage Crack'.[-35.525604,148.912866]

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

The short steep crack above the cave on 'Lest We Forget'. Two rests due to incompetence.