Routes in World for selected grade

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

Corner 2m left of SSCC1. Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you don't need to use any of it.

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner. Rappel down from DBB directly above the route.

Up past difficult mantle then up right to break. Traverse right to edge of arete then up to top passing several carrots on the way. Belay just below top out on stainless carrots. Belay leader from top belay to rap chains for Angular Crack.

Re-bolted with stainless glue in carrots in 2016.

Direct start is 24.

Start: Thin crack 6m left of 'The Bells of Rhymney',

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route.

Right of IOEP. Shared start with Ole Biscuit Barrel, then follow the bolts left to the low anchors.

Jug haul up past rings. Start: right side of buttress 30m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Now has loweroffs.

Up layaway arete.

Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top.

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

Follow the ring bolts up to the prow up high. Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish.

Up over bulge on big holds.

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise".

The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19.

Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise".

Rap chains.

Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off.

Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab.

Start 2m L of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline, zig-zaging a bit, clipping 4 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Right of Snooze. Pull over two bulges and onto the crack and slab. Romp up the nice looking orange rock to the anchors shared with Snooze. The route starts just left of the bush 2m up, watch the tree when lowering!!

A one move special, and a soft touch at the grade. Start at the obvious crack in the corner R of Humility. Up this with excellent protection to a ledge. Bumble easily to the top as for PA. Bolted belay anchor.

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Crack at the top takes a cam around Camalot #2 size if you'd like to avoid the very slightly runout finish. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the dead tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 35m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber. You can rap off with one 80m rope, otherwise join two ropes, or scramble another 5 meters to the summit and walk off.

Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off.

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth! Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

The obvious line up the scoops immediately above the trad grade 10 corner at path level. 12m as a sport route from the scramble onto block, about 20m from path level including easy corner (no bolts till ledge). Plenty of bolts on headwall and good climbing.

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

Protection: Cams: BD #.4, #.5, #.75 x 2, #1, #2, 1 carrot

Anchors: ring bolts with shackles

3m right of LL. Up through the cave and follow cracks/ledges

Sit start on the big juggy hole and climb straight up the wall on a series of jugs to a tricky top out. Top out is not too bad if you suss out the top holds before embarking (try not to get caught on the tree when topping out).

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings 7-9 are for top anchor.

Start: 3m left of Frolic. DRBB set back and out of sight.

Right arête starting off ledge right of Maleficent. Starts at double ring belay bolts. Passes thru a DBB halfway so can be treated as single pitch or a two pitch multi for those learning the ropes.

Up past obvious hole in the wall. Originally done on gear, now bolted with carrots (large heads).

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.

Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out.

Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided.

1. 42m (12) Bridge the crack (Driftwood) until it narrows at 35 metres. Traverse right to first belay of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun (carrot bolt.)

2. 22m (15) Clean steep wall and seam directly above to big ledge on left.

3. 30m (13) Step right and up orange streak to 'Rotten Row'. Move 10 metres right to flake belay under tree.

4. 48m (14) As for final pitch of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Alternatively, escape up 'Rotten Row'.

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt = ground fall territory from the 2nd bolt. 4 RBs to DBB or clip the carrot and top out for full value. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & equipped with lower-offs.

Start 3m L of 'Horse Head Nebula'. Marked "AE".

Follow the bolts to the DBB. High first bolt, but easy climbing up to that point. Rebolted 2014.

Now fully bolted with rings.

An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams

Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.

Up the stepped looking arete passing 6RB's to lower offs a little back from the top.

Start: At blunt arete 15 metres left of 'Alpine'

Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.

The right side of the juggy orange streak.

Start: Climb Clea's well protected crack. Move slightly right from the ledge onto the arete. Continue up moving over the small roof.

Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12).

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

This climb starts roughly where the track meets the wall, marked "MSMS"

A nice route that follows a line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with After Dinner Delight. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Fully bolted low grade climb on stainless glue-in hex bolts.

Start: Starts 5m left (facing in) of KBSS. Look for the stainless carrot about a metre above eye height.

1. Straight up, or (easier) up one move, left then up past 6BR to mantle onto large belay ledge. 2FH belay on wall.

2. Up trending right on some fragile ironstone, moving right around blunt arete about two thirds way up. 7BR to 2FH belay on top just right of a home made rusted fixed hanger from the past.

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

Start at the flat clearing R of the freestanding boulder.

The most popular climb at 'Tinbeerwah'. Hardest move is getting off the ground. 11 BRs and top out. If the high first bolt concerns you there is a good small to medium wire placement at the right of the small rooflet to help to protect the start. Rap/belay using rings 17 or 18.

Great warm up route, or beginner route. Bulge at midway may test some climbers.

Right line of rings up the lichen covered slab. Left handside also available.

Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up.

Obvious line up middle of left wall to DRB. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs.

Shallow corner, step R past conifer, then trend R up wall or go straight up.

Start: Start 2m R of E.

Start: To the right of E. Straight up nice slab aiming for the brief vague corner a metre or two right of the Eyrie's belay cave. Straight up this and into jugs above.

The staircase with a hard first step. Newbies beware between the third and fourth and tap the rock above the fourth, it is hollow and sounds it.

Start: Around the arete from FF5.

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

An olden day classic - historical!

Start: 20m right of FDds on smaller block down and right of the monster?

1. 35m (13) Wall to ledge below big block, left, then up to belay on top of block.

2. 30m (15) Big corner to block, move left and up to ledge or continue up crack.

3. 30m (13) Bulge, then into chimney and up.

Interesting historical note: the monster block that forms the first pitch used to be closer to the wall and higher up, but sometime in the 1970s it slid a couple of metres during a torrential rain storm. Many guidebook descriptions haven't been updated since the FA, causing confusion for many repeat ascentionists.

A wonderful introduction to hand jams.

Start: At the left end of the wall there are two distinctive cracks. Start below the left-most one.

Climb the prominent black streak and then carefully up the booming flake.

Start: Start about 5m R of 'Mururoa'.

Delightful moves up wall and thin bottomless crack 2 metres left of "The Priest"

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

1. 15m (15) Excellent finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into Holpyp. Up over the roof and carry on.

Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off

The right set of bolts up this face. If climbed directly over the bolts, goes about 5.7 -- but can be climbed at about 5.5 by drifting a bit off line either right or left into larger holds.

This now (fall 2012) has a chunk of rock at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Right 5.8 S".

Climb the obvious bolted chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

On the side wall left of arete. Take 14 draws including anchors or skip a few bolts.

Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.

Nice flake system. Up corner on left to ledge (beware loose block that we couldn't budge) then up flakes on left.

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

   Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left, searching out for those crimps and jugs.

R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB.

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

Start 1m right of the corner. Straight up to the left line of scoops.

3m up Lennox, then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams. Start as for L.

Sit start and climb the line up the right side of the wall using the arete and good holds on the face.

2m right of SS/P. Around small bulge and then straight up easy ground to DRB lower offs. Well protected with 5 BRs, although 2nd clip can be a bit stressful.

Very nice. Up the inital crack systems to a ledge at 15m. Place a high runner in the back of the cave, then bridge airily out to the top. Gear belay then rap off IM's chain or continue up and L through mank to belay at DW's anchors.

From the block, follow the line of 'heucos' to the top. A beginner favourite.

Up and left to flake and up the obvious pinnacle on the wall. Finish at ledge. 'Extension' is 'TMc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.