Routes in World for selected grade

Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up.

Sit start from slot at base of corner, climb prow and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

Packs a punch for the grade and the length. Start as for Mr Carpet Burn but at the mid height crimp rail traverse left and finish up Fantastic Mr Fox. Be sure to climb straight up from the last bolt via the poor right hand three finger pocket (which has crumbled away a bit which probably changes things) and the left hand door knob (not to give you beta ) - this is the crux of Mr Universe. People have been known to circumvent this crux by going right into Mr Carpet Burn at the last bolt and to traverse back on the jugs, thus completing said circumvention - this is the "28" (ha ha) version called Mr Puniverse (see above).

Popular outing for the grade. Feet optional at the start. Expect to queue for this one!

An easy start provides access to the magnificent top third. Extending a few bolts is prudent. Has also been done by starting up La Realite and moving left through the last rest of Reality Dysfunction to join this route at the bolt 9 pocket (Socks n Jocks 30, Tom O'Halloran, 7/9/14).

One of the best line of the whole park.

*the key left mini-pinch broke on April 11th, 2022.. (rip)

Climb adams proj until the 6th and then throw back right into the end of pepperoni. Great power climbing.

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

If you love pumped forearms then at the last bolt (before anchor) traverse left to finish up Brown Badge.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

SpoonBaby across into Iron Man, avoids the good low knee bars on Spoonman. Should prove sustained.

Lefthand extension at the intermediate anchor.

Same starting jug as 'Eyes on the Pies', but uses a series of gastons to climb directly up. Slightly sketchy top-out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxyN0rOWyG8

Climb from the ground straight up and finish at Full Metal's anchor. Burly never-ending bouldering. Epitomises the style of the right side of the cave.

Sit start down on the left arete then slap out to the right side of the prow then continue up with big compression moves up the prow.

Sit start at L end of Titanic boulder face, finish straight up.

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

One of the best lines at the crag! Stunning climbing on huge tufa pipes that turn blue if you hike the contrast on photoshop Beware of the hidden gem below the chains!!!

A good, less steep offering. A hard start that can be done many ways sets you up for a good rest followed by great consistent climbing. A big crux move guards the anchor jugs and easier climbing. Conservation is the name of the game on this one. Soft, and a small number of (mostly tall) climbers take 29, but for now there is still a clear consensus that it's 30.

Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts.

Start about 15m R of the shared Onions start. Very dusty base, and often muddy/seepy start holds, but great after that. Tackle the steep R-leaning line of flakes and then the biggest part of the roof. JackM Tom

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with round hold, climb left through the roof and top-out.

Video

Video (feet first)

Sit start and up then left to finish at the break out left.

Original grade 7c. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite in 2006. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Tidal Wave.

Solía ser una variación de Desalmada, pero ahora cuenta con plaquetas independientes para el inicio. Aún así se comparten algunos agarres en el inicio. Es una vía muy bonita con un crux largo y aéreo.

Up Semtex till 5th cruxing left to the carrot then clipping one FH on nitro and lean into sat night crux. Tight crux with multiple dead points and massive spans. Ninderry’s new test piece.

Big and bold, a King Line of the Summit Cave. Devotion required. To start, set a belay on the ledge atop Trojan's first pitch using the first bolt of this route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse right. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow hold'. Then breach crux to gain the corner of In Between Dreams. Finish up this.

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

Shares the start with 'Raki on the Rocks' and splits right just before the intermediate anchor.

Make sure the belayer is on the ball with the amount of rope out for the first few bolts. The ledge is closer than it appears from the ground, and you can easily hit it

Squat start on two crimps in the scoop. Crimp up the face to a big dyno. Classic

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

The most beutiful line I've ever climbed or layed my eys on!

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the prow finishing up the right-hand side.

Video

Desperate and technical slab/wall bouldering. Climb up through the window without using the big features on either side. Middle of the Eastern wall on the North Boulder

One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don't get much better.

Start: Start 5m down R of 'Krankandangle'.

Samuel Buchmann Youtube

A good fun gymnastic route. Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of White Linen. Rebolted 2020/21ish (thanks), but beware the repositioned 3rd bolt is now a much harder clip if you prefer the direct beta past the 2nd, and also makes it riskier to skip the 4th (i.e. as per the Temptation video).

Starts just where the road hits the wall on your way down. Same start as Bizzare Contacts and same finish too, but trends left arround the tuffas instead of right.Watch the ground fall at the 2nd and 4th bolts.

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts. (Has been upgraded after a hold broke off.) chris

Lying down start as for 'The Cougar'. Out to the jug and straight up from there with a tricky mantle!

Matt

to the left of Achille Talon, from low ramp directly to the top with a big launch.

Sit start with nice crimping and one big throw.

Like the great man, it's a journey that keeps you engaged right to the anchors. Climb 'One Eyed Undertaker' and exit top of crux into the small corner on the left. Head on up blunt arete to chains. Shown as route 19 on the old ACAQ route database topo: http://www.climb.org.au/upload2/1038.jpg.

Combines the cruxes of three routes. Start off Knifey Spooney, then into Spoonman and finally veer left into Iron Man. Lots of fun bouldering with good rests in between.

Words can't do this route justice. Undeniably a world-class, "you should travel here to do this" route. Starts with stickclipping the bolt a couple of metres right of Citizen Arcane. Technical slab/groove start to the Facebook-famous dyno. Motor up the crack and confront the "press". Seam section to monster pockets. An unforgettable finale to cap things off.

Start off undercling in back of the cave climb two moves into thriller in Manilla

THE line, THE classic. The sort of problem you dream about. Rarely does a hard problem involve truly classic climbing - here is a genuine exception. Despite the landing and the high level of commitment necessary, Ain't No Easy Win is actually out of character for Jurassic - the rock is solid and with experienced spotters it is even relatively safe. Follow the sickle shaper finger tip overlap up the overhanging orange streak. Funky, powerful, continuous, desperate, awesome. A truly world class problem.

Orlanda

The classic of the crag. 45m’s of spectacular, relentless tension. No move harder then V5 but hundreds of them. Always equipped with draws and the must do of the crag.

Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit.

One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's.

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

Sit start from undercling/gaston then climb up using high right sloper and top out. No stacking pads for SS. Note: There was no footer left of the starting holds for the FA. A new footer was revealed after the block to the left became loose and was removed. Now easier/downgraded.

Bevan Ashby Alec Landstra

Sit start on good pinches. Move up via tufa-esque pinches to top out.

Stand start. Work your way up the arete with funky footwork and small crimps on the bulge.

Toe hook beta: https://vimeo.com/219173746

Heel hook beta: https://youtu.be/gHHdgVHfAkM

Start at the right hand end of this overhanging section of rock, on a large, worn, pockety jug. Traverse left on edges and pockets to a cruxy move going to a slopey pinch in the seam. Awkward mantle. A popular problem.

Short but powerful through and overhang.

Incredible climbing with a hard overhung start through nice tufas and some long moves onto more fun climbing.

bolted by ALEX CATLIN

The same as 'Travis' except both slopey pinches must be held before gaining the edge. Contrived but good.

Phillip Booth

One of Weill's faves. Sit start on underclings 2m left of the arete. Bust left to side pull, right to undercling pocket, then two very slopey pinches. Exit for Anonymous Arete

Stand start in the crack corner near the end of Anger Management. Right hand on the shelf, left hand at the bottom of the crack below it. Move up into the undercling crack and traverse up and left until an easy topout around the corner.

Peter Jeavons

The straight line to the right anchor on the Rock'n Roll ledge, up the white face. All titanium bolts.

Great climbing getting continually harder as you go. Start as for Mr Magoo but after the sixth bolt head left crossing Tucker Time and continue left and over the left side of the roof.

Great flowing moves make this New Zealand's endurance testpiece! Starts in the central, deepest part of the cave. Climb straight up the veer left at 4th bolt. The draining start gives way to big holds. Two cruxes are placed conveniently at the very end for when you are completely pumped.

Low in the grade.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb diagonally right up the seam and finish up groove. "The name says it all. One of the first and still one of the best"

Video

Sit start with both hands on the good incut crimp, head up the right arete via some hard initial moves and committing but solid top out through lip towards the middle of the boulder

Sitstart on sidepull, hard pull up left and left again. Sit start meaning ass on the pad not crouch start or pad stacked

Chris Beers

One of the most stellar lines on the Bruixes wall! A funky start with some single-digit cranking leads to a powerful boulder and an intimidating and not to be underestimated final bulge - good thing the rests are so darn good

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

Directly left of Sentinel, last route on the left of this section of ledge before crossing the hanging swamp under the big overhang. Shares start with North by Northwest. Head straight up the wall on some of the best rock The Pit has to offer and no annoying sit down ledges. About halfway up is perhaps the most persistent seepage point on the crag, but slightly off to the side so just be ready to dry off some holds.

Once considered the hardest route in the country when introduced by Carrigan as Australia's first grade 30. Now considered a tad easier by modern standards. Start as for 'Trojan' and at its crux move left across the corner and onto the exposed arete. Take some deep breaths then get fired up for an intensely fingery experience above the flared layback, not to mention some acute footwork. At the top of the corner, make a move left to a jug and gain the finishing crack. A final tricky exit leads to the belay.

Stand-start at left hand end of the smooth overhanging wall. Pull off ground with your right foot on the wall, hold the position stable and then move directly to top and mantle over. One move wonder.

Start matched on small crimp 1m L of ZZ. Shoot to crimp in the roof. From here, the hands follow only the thin crack until you reach the catch hold from the ICCCY dyno. Link into ZZ to finish and top out. Easier variations likely exist where the hands deviate from the thin crack. FA used only the crack for hands.

The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts.

Sit start at L end of Titanic boulder face, traverse R across face and finish up prow.

The start can be aided which puts the route at a friendlier 7c+.

Sit start and traverse right through a line of very small crimps, topping out for Brass Monkey. If you stay off the higher crimps, add a grade.

CMCC

#sd

Hard bouldery route, short but worth the effort.

#sd

Climb the yellow streak all the way up to the roof and continue for a couple more moves to get the chains.

Start with 'Früchte des Zorns' and after the roof keep to the right.

Start with the 6m batman off the plank, cruise up R to a hard but good boulder problem out the blank roof. Don't (let your belayer see you) grab the chains.