Routes in World for selected grade

World's first 8C! In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8B+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.

Repetitions

• 2001 Bernd Zangerl (8C)
• 2002 Dave Graham, Chris Sharma
• 2003 Cristian Core
• 2004 Malcolm Smith (V14)
• 2005 Koyamada Dai (8B+/V14), Nalle Hukkataival
• 2007 Killian Fischhuber
• 2009 Adam Ondra (8B+)
• 2013 Jan Hojer (8C/V15)
• 2018 Jimmy Webb , Jakob Schubert
• 2020 Kim Marschner, Alex Megos, Yannick Flohe

Links

• German Article about the problem

Sit start.

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar

The original route was bolted in 1993 by Alexander Huber. First ascension: Alexander Huber in 1994. Assigned grade was 8c+ (length: 35 m).

Daniel Andrada added a 6 m extension and the climb is known as La Rambla/La Rambla Direct/La Rambla Extension. Grade: 9a+ (length: 41m).

This is the full length of La Rambla and includes the traverse after the first anchor. It connects to the anchor of La Reina Mora.

Climbed by Margo Hayes in 2017 making her the first woman to climb a confirmed 9a+.

#sd #rl

#sd

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

• Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
• Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• Sachi Amma
• Cédric Lachat
• Jakob Schubert
• Domen Škofic
• Magnus Midtbø
• Mateusz Haladaj
• Jonathan Siegrist
• Daniel Woods
• Matty Hong
• Piotr Schab
• Said Belhaj
• Klemen Bečan
• Patxi Usobiaga
• Jon Cardwell
• Felipe Camargo
• Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

• 2001, July, 19, Chris Sharma - Beta video
• 2004, May, 24, Sylvain Millet
• 2004, July, 29, Patxi Usobiaga
• 2007, July, 30, Dave Graham
• 2007, Sep, 02, Ethan Pringle
• 2008, July, 27, Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• 2010, Aug, 15, Enzo Oddo
• 2014, June, 01, Jonathan Siegrist
• 2014, July, 11, Alex Megos
• 2014, July, 22, Adam Ondra
• 2014, Aug, 07, Sachi Amma
• 2015, June, 22, Stefano Ghisolfi
• 2016, May, 25, Jon Cardwell
• 2016, Aug, 05, Sean Bailey
• 2017, Sep, 24, Margo Hayes
• 2018, July, Piotr Schab
• 2018, Sep, Stefano Carnati
• 2019, July, Jorge Díaz-Rullo
• 2020, Sébastien Bouin
• 2023, Apr, Tanguy Merard
• 2023, May, Matty Hong

#sd #lr

#sd #rl

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

#SD

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start under small roof with small sidepulls, move up to crimp and dyno up. "Obvious line with great moves on small holds"

Video

One of the most famous problems in Colorado, Jade was known as "The Green 45 Project" for years.

#lrl

Shares anchor with "Nordic Plumber".

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with the rail, climb out to the lip and traverse left through the roof and finish up as for Colin the Librarian. "Compression"

Video

Max Bertone

Repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi (6/4/2018).

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start #SD with large sidepull, move to gaston and climb straight up.

Video

Oriane Bertone

#sd

Climb up right from a good hold on the left. "Named after a famous book about South Africa during the 1940's"

Video

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb up on the left, throw out right and top-out. mORPHO

Video

Video

#sd

Sit-start and climb the overhanging prow finishing out left (the use of a kneepad drastically changes the grade.

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start and climb the face on slopers finishing right.

Starts with Noia and finishes some 70 moves later on Anaconda. Initially graded 9b but downgraded by Sébastien Bouin in 2023.

The #sd of 'Muttertag'

A 13-move problem.

Sit-start with jug and climb out right.

Video

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Sit-start with crimp rail and climb leftwards out the cave.

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start with good rail and climb out through the roof. "Amazing moment, one of my best FA's yet! 5 stars – Daniel Woods"

Video

#sd

#sitstart #topout #slopers

The centre of the cave from back left.

Alternative start to La Fabela finishing at the anchor of La Fabela.

Left start into 'Crackinette'.

A route of historic importance bolted by French local Quentin Chastagnier, FAed by Alex Megos and flashed by Adam Ondra, making it the first of the grade to be flashed (see Reel Rock 13).

According to Adam Ondra, the route doesn't have any real crux, just around 25-30 moves of very sustained hard and fingery climbing in a big overhang where the hardest section comes just before linking the direct start into the original Crackinette, and then you have to deal with the awkward 8b+ crack itself.

Variant of Llamps I Trons.

#sd

Sit start.

Sit-start and climb through the tension roof finishing out left (without the boulder behind). "Fred fleetingly mentioned this send the following year in casual conversation – just another world class problem"

Video

As Traversi dputs it: “Empath is slightly overhanging, about 65 feet tall and it’s difficult all the way from the bottom to the anchors. It’s a power endurance test piece with very few resting positions. The minimal shake spots are on bad liebacks with smears for feet. The route revolves around squeezing this refrigerator-like feature from bottom to top. There are only two down-pulling holds on the entire route. One of the uniquely difficult aspects of the climb is that your left hand is always on the ‘good’ holds and your right hand is always on bad holds. Your left arm gets completely smoked, because there are few opportunities to rest it.”

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

#sd

#sd

Vadim Timonov - mellow

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Downgrade to 9a proposed by Sébastien Bouin .

Low start to "The Joker".

On the Yellow 26 boulder. SDS = 8B+

Sit start to Madball - FA Klem Loskot 1999. Originally graded 8a+/V12 but later upgraded to 8b/v13 by Klem. Lots of sequences now exist.

9a or 9a+ - Jorge Díaz-Rullo given a upgrade

Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

Sit-start with slopers, climb through the low roof and finish up left on slopers. Originally graded 8a but it was reopened by Christian Core in '05 after a couple of key holds broke in the roof

Irina Kuzmenko - mellow

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start as Steak House but climb through the long roof and finish as Winnie. "Opened on Nelson Mandela's 85th birthday"