Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
1
21
35m
2
22
30m
3
22
30m
4
18
30m
| 130m | Bungonia Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||
Took a long long time. Some very thin sections at the grade, definitely much harder than strangeness and harder than the start of evolution.
Pretty sure we found the right line based on the description, but found it rather desperate.
|
||||||||
22 |
★★★ Shock And Awe
1
75m
2
3
22
| 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | |||
Came back to clean up the top pitch, so much glorious air. Incredible location. Next time i'll be back for the whole deal.
|
||||||||
E4 6a E4 6a | ★★★ Mithril/The Wargs | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Jul 2020 | |||
Finally!
|
||||||||
23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor — 2 attempts | 25m | Arapiles | Thu 28th Sep 2023 | ||||
Took two shots, and ended up using the face much more than expected. Obviously with the bolts at the hard bit it feels like a sport route
|
||||||||
22 | ★★★ On Edge | 28m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Aug 2021 | |||
Got it! Great moves and a delicate crux. Keeps you on your toes.
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent — 4 attempts | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Apr 2023 | |||
Finally went after the last attempt had me climbing a waterfall.
|
||||||||
22 |
★ Disco Dilemma P1
1
Fun little pitch to play on. Sporty | 35m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | |||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It — 3 attempts | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 28th Sep 2023 | |||
Three shots, fun moves, used the face a lot more than the crack. Not as classic as skydiver really
|
||||||||
E2 5c E2 5c | ★★★ The Goblin King | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jul 2019 | |||
went back to finish it off.
|
||||||||
E2 5c E2 5c | ★★ Touch the Fire | 21m | Shorn cliff | ★ Good | Sun 8th Sep 2019 | |||
The start is spicy, but that doesn't really justify the grade
|
||||||||
E2 5c E2 5c | ★★ Smaug the Dragon | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Jul 2020 | |||
Had to bail out Neil. Suckaaaa
|
||||||||
E2 5c E2 5c | ★★★ New Horizons II (New Horizons 11) | 18m | Avon Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Aug 2020 | |||
Felt really easy this time
|
||||||||
21 | ★★ Traverse of the Gods Direct Start | 25m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Oct 2021 | |||
Slipped off the tricky opening sequence, then it went fine the second go, cool traverse and an easy finish
|
||||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th Oct 2021 | |||
Finally it goes down. Still a struggle, but never bored of working this one. I'll be back for laps.
|
||||||||
21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 13th Jul 2022 | |||
Managed to squeeze it in as the sun set. What a view and what a climb. Flawless.
|
||||||||
21 | ★★★ Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks | 57m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 17th Sep 2022 | |||
Came back to free it. Such a pleasure through beautiful 3D climbing.
Its definitely a sport route, there is no runout on the flake, and anyway, who wants to place gear on layback.
|
||||||||
21 | ★★★ Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks | 57m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 17th Sep 2022 | |||
Once more to clean
|
||||||||
21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 23rd Jun 2023 | |||
Still a fight, but mega and always worth it
|
||||||||
21 20 | ★★ Pilot Error | 12m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Apr 2015 | |||
20 | ★★ Ben Trovato | 150m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Jan 2017 | |||
got this second go! Delicate moves and intriguing gear, leaves a really engaging climb.
|
||||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Feb 2021 | |||
Went back for it and it didnt disapoint
|
||||||||
20 | ★★ Christian Crack | 13m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Apr 2021 | |||
Worked out the beta, went second go
|
||||||||
20 | ★★ Colour Card | 16m, 2 | Watagans | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Jul 2021 | |||
Went nicely this time as expected.
|
||||||||
20 20 R | ★ Scourge | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Apr 2022 | |||
Quite sustained and interesting start yields to a nice headwall.
Gear was fine, just a little wiggly. I missed the onsight because i didnt want to move far above a tiny nut, shouldve just kept it together. |
||||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Jul 2022 | |||
Finally came for the lead. It took an age, bit finally i was clean on the top.
Exhausting but brilliant
|
||||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Jun 2023 | |||
Came back for it and it went much better
|
||||||||
20 | ★★ Cadenza — 2 attempts | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||
Two shots, didn't see a move on the onsight.
Great fun, really well protected but heady traverse deserves more traffic
|
||||||||
20 | ★★ Atomic Punk | 25m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | |||
Felt good this time, but it really is a bit of an intense lead, the runouts are solid but safe
|
||||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Apr 2016 | |||
19 | ★★ Electronic Flag DS - RHS (Electronic Flag DS) | 10m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jul 2018 | |||
Came back for this after i was too scared by the block last time.
|
||||||||
E2 5b E2 5b | Pump It Up... Again | 17m | Shorn cliff | Average | Sun 8th Sep 2019 | |||
Came back to get it with crack gloves, those jams do hurt
|
||||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ Embankment 4 | 30m | Millstone Edge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Mar 2020 | |||
Finally came back for it
|
||||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ Elysium | 37m | Swanage | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Jun 2020 | |||
Came back for the tick after falling at the peg first go. A nice route of varying style.
|
||||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ King Kong | 90m | Wintour's Leap | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jul 2020 | |||
A great line with some great movement, seperated by some choss and vegetation.
I still think the crux is the one stopper move in the second pitch
|
||||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | Stanage | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 29th Jul 2020 | |||
Just gotta go for it
|
||||||||
19 | ★ Jaws | 32m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Jan 2021 | |||
Got it again, the mega double hands at the top gets the rating.
|
||||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Apr 2021 | |||
Finally
|
||||||||
19 | ★★ Thruxton | 57m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||
Maybe pumpier than the 21. But it went fine
|
||||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | Watagans | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | |||
Went back for the send. Still pumpy but it went well
|
||||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 10th Apr 2022 | |||
Always a pleasure, one of my all time favourites
|
||||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Apr 2022 | |||
A bit spicy at the top, definitely not what i remembered from years ago, but excellent moves and position.
|
||||||||
19 | ★★ I'd Rather Be Sailing | 28m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th May 2022 | |||
A really nice lead, great rock and moves, but i'll never understand the bolting or grade.
The only supplementary gear that would actually be useful consists of two #4 cams. But either way theres a couple of spots where a fall would drop you on a small ledge before falling onto a bolt a meter below. With the addition of two or three bolts it would be well protected sport. As is its just runout sport, but not a real mixed route. As for the grade, theres no way the boulder goes at 19, its about 22. If you aid past then its probably only 17/18 from there. So how do you grade it? "17R Sport Batman start" might be fair, but it seems ridiculous. |
||||||||
19 | ★★ Foreword | 69m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Aug 2022 | |||
P1
Quite exciting and harder than it looks.
Very smeary, and it's not over once you step around.
Went up and placed high gear then led it clean, might be back to improve my style and to do the top pitches
|
||||||||
19 | ★★ Colosseum Corner | 78m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Nov 2022 | |||
Thought I'd been up before, until i realised i remembered nothing of the top pitches.
Honestly the first pitch is mega, but the top pitches are really dirty and quite vegetated. Quite the adventure and still worth doing to the top. Seconded the first pitch, which id led before. Led the second 19. Ran out of gear, so didn't link the final pitch. Also didn't like the carrots in that anchor, so belayed from the rings out right. All and all a bit of an epic, but that's why we're here. |
||||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | |||
Night lap this time. Alwaya mega
|
||||||||
19 | ★★★ Gemini | 51m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | |||
Beautiful. Really happy to feel chill the whole way up it
|
||||||||
19 | ★★ Sweet Dreams | 88m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | |||
Excellent. The first mixed pitch is a pretty rare style in australia, and the top two pitches each have a rather powerful crux through wild terrain at the grade
|
||||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | |||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 13th Jul 2018 | |||
Finally came back for the clean lead. Delicate then powerful
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ The Rack | 13m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Apr 2021 | |||
Nice, classic thin hands
|
||||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink | 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | |||
Had to pitch it as i ran out of draws. should be a 2pitch
|
||||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Sep 2021 | |||
I would do this route every day for a warmup and never get bored.
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Apr 2022 | |||
Amnesia onsight.
A great line and a hard move or two of powerful jamming. Good stuff.
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Apr 2022 | |||
Another lap
|
||||||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th May 2022 | |||
A really nice little clim. I expected a dawdle, but the start and the stepover were more intense than i expected, young me was pretty brave for how weak he was.
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Jul 2022 | |||
Hero climbing through easy but really exposed positions
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Jul 2022 | |||
Brilliant jamming for days
|
||||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | |||
Always a pleasure
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 19th Apr 2023 | |||
Powerfull little number, but it still goes
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Apr 2023 | |||
warmup, lovely as always
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | |||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | |||
Victory lap, lovely
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Borderline 29 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Jun 2023 | |||
An awesome 3m, more for the atmosphere than anything
|
||||||||
18 | ★★ Fluid / Epic Link Up | 30m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Jul 2023 | |||
Lovely warmup
|
||||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | |||
17 | ★★ lphigenia | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Apr 2015 | |||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Jan 2017 | |||
What a stonker! Great sustained jamming. Bring as many BD2 cams as you can get, i had 6, placed em all.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Jun 2018 | |||
Always a pleasure
|
||||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ Tigers Don't Cry | 20m | Shorn cliff | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Sep 2019 | |||
Came back for the tick, chill this time
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 11th Jan 2021 | |||
Can never resist a lap
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Grey Mist | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Jan 2021 | |||
Always a pleasure.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | |||
Always charming
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Aug 2021 | |||
Never wasted time when you're on flake crack.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Oct 2021 | |||
again of course
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Oct 2021 | |||
Finally got back to do the final pitch clean. Still a little strenous to be honest. But it went down without too much fuss.
The first two pitches remain some of the best introductory jam climbing in the mountains, with good jams surrounded by good feet and some jugs. A great place to learn, and the top pitch is a great test at the grade.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th Oct 2021 | |||
Again and always a pleasure
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Grey Mist | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | |||
Always a winner
|
||||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Apr 2022 | |||
After falling on two previous trips it was nice for this to feel very chill, all fell into place and i walked it.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Apr 2022 | |||
A run up it to show claire. Lovely jugging, just gotta keep on trucking.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | |||
Pure class as always.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★ Ozone Action | 20m, 3 | The Cathedral | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Nov 2022 | |||
Nice warmup as a sport route.
If led only on the bolts (including clipping one bolt from the offshoot left which can be reached very easily) its a bold but not unsafe sport climb. The nerviest bit was actually just getting to the first without stick clipping it. Perhaps the description should be updated, as it is definitely reasonable but not mandatory to place any gear. |
||||||||
17 | ★ Currawongs & Chocolate Cakes | 18m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Thu 15th Dec 2022 | |||
Didn't realise id already done this
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st Mar 2023 | |||
Always worth it
|
||||||||
17 | ★★ Wizards Back | 10m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Jun 2023 | |||
Forgot how exciting this route is! Great 6m micro pitch
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | |||
Always glorious
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Grey Mist | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | |||
Always a joy, but the arrival of insane wind didnt help, nearly got blown off the cliff
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | |||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Natalio Ruiz | 18m, 3 | Suesca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Jul 2017 | |||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 10th Jan 2016 | |||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 7th Apr 2021 | |||
always a charm
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | |||
Speed run to get out before the 830 curfew. 7 minutes to top rope it
|
||||||||
17 16 | ★★ Micron | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Jul 2022 | |||
Lovely moves and lots of nuts
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Jul 2022 | |||
Good jamming
|
||||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Aug 2022 | |||
Always expect this to be az walk. It isn't. But it is a classic
|
||||||||
16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 17th Sep 2022 | |||
Beautiful little line. I always forget how nervy the bulge is.
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Gold Star Pitch 1 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 17th Sep 2022 | |||
A lovely pitch, was planning on the top pitch too, but rain got us
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Centurion | 10m | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Dec 2022 | |||
16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | |||
16 | ★★ Sympatico | 20m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | |||
A bit chossy, but great moves and potition make it worthwhile
|