Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Melting Point | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
25 | ★★★ Melting Point | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Going up for a training lap
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Sun 9th Jun 2019 - Albert Terrace | ||||||
14 | ★ Ramahana Road | 11m, 5 | ||||
15 16 | ★ Itbeckonstan | 11m, 5 | ||||
13 | ★ Defenced | 11m, 5 | ||||
15 | ★ Quacker | 11m, 5 | ||||
19 20 | ★ Peggy Peggy Phew | 11m, 5 | ||||
The sequence proved too tricky for the onisght. Pretty stiff.
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Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Dinosaur Face Field | ||||||
V4 | ★ I Can't Believe It's Not Butter! | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Entrance Field | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Dirty Rascal | 7m | ||||
Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Main Field | ||||||
V6 | ★★ Falcon | ★ Good | ||||
Good fun
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Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Unwin Crag Left sector | ||||||
16 | ★ Whispering grass | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★★ Fringe benefit | 28m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed a couple of days after a big southerly snowstorm. The rock was dry and friction great. The sun leaves the wall early in winter though
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Sun 26th May 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Main Field | ||||||
V6 | ★ Swoop Da Scoop | |||||
V5 | ★★ Instant Classic | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Sunshine Arete | |||||
Sun 26th May 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Entrance Field | ||||||
V8 | ★★ Limestone Orgasm | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Polished, but still awesome
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Sun 19th May 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Entrance Field | ||||||
V4 | ★ Rail of Delight | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 5th May 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Entrance Field | ||||||
V3 | Marsupial hunt | 6m | ||||
V3 | Just stand up! | 4m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Second Hand | 4m | ||||
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Entrance Field | ||||||
V8 | ★★ Limestone Orgasm | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V0 | ★★ Orange 35 Wall (Orange 35) | 4m | ||||
V3 | ★★★ Stem Cell | 5m | ||||
V5 | ★★ Smeagal | |||||
Sun 21st Apr 2019 - Pōhara | ||||||
Bo Peep Slab | ||||||
21 | ★★ Leftist (Unknown) - with Minke, Robin Jodon | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Coup de Grâce / Coup d'etat (Extension) (Coup De Grace) - with Minke, Robin Jodon | 17m, 9 | ||||
22 | ★★ Flexestentialism - with Minke, Robin Jodon | 12m, 5 | ||||
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Paynes Ford | ||||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | ||||||
19 | ★ Bite My Chunk - with Robin Jodon | 18m, 5 | ||||
First two bolts are very far apart even by NZ standards
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15 | ★ Gorgonzola Goes - with Robin Jodon | 18m, 6 | ||||
20 | ★★ Tongue In Groove - with Robin Jodon | 14m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Rawhide - with Robin Jodon | 18m, 5 | ||||
Plenty of excitement available on this!
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Pōhara | ||||||
Sea Grass Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Franklin's Tower | 26m, 9 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hair On A G-String | 15m, 4 | ||||
17 | ★ Up Against The Wall M.F. | 13m | ||||
16 | ★ Some Like it Hot | 13m, 5 | ||||
Sun 10th Mar 2019 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
27 26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
27 26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
One hang, felt good
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27 | ★★ Groundhog Day | 13m, 7 | ||||
27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip | 15m, 7 | ||||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Cave Stream High End | ||||||
V0 | ★★ 7 Pyramid Groove | |||||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Split Apple Field | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Split Apple SS | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill The AIDS Boulder | ||||||
V6 | ★★ Orange Aid | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Cave Stream High End | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Babyfood | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great problem, cleans up well. Worked it on top rope then sent over the pads.
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Wed 20th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Rage Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Leaning Wall | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Always a pleasure
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21 | ★★ Leaning Wall | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Training lap
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18 17 | ★★ The Environment Centre Bites The Dust - with Robin Jodon | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stiff 18 is more like it. Gear is adequate, but the entire middle section is protected only by an ancient peg. The crux is most definitely not at the top.
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Wed 20th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Year Right Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Nanny State - with Robin Jodon | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Pulled some loose holds off on the abseil down, take care between the 5th and 6th bolts.
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Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Rage Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Leaning Wall | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Feeding Time Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Prophet of Doom | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 17/18 | ★ The Promised Land - with Robin Jodon | 16m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | Calling All Sportclimbers - with Robin Jodon | 16m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 17th Feb 2019 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
The Thunderdome | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Gone Bimbo | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Figuring out beta
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27 | ★★★ Gone Bimbo | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Got up to halfway before falling, looking forward to a few more goes on this
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Wed 6th Feb 2019 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Melting Point | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
24 | The Biscuit Factory | 28m, 10 | Don't Bother | |||
Fell when I made a biscuit at the crux. Worth putting a helmet on your belayer.
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22 | ★★ Wacking Wendy | 26m, 9 | ||||
Sun 3rd Feb 2019 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Orange Wall | ||||||
19 17 | ★★ Freshly Squeezed | 26m, 8 | ||||
Typical Murray Judge sandbag. Nice slab moves, bring your edging shoes.
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Sat 2nd Feb 2019 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Crimea Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Back in the U.S.S.R | 38m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nicely set up route, can easily be done as one pitch
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Sat 2nd Feb 2019 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Lunar Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Nicked - with Robin Jodon | 55m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Spicy, old school style of having bolts just after the cruxes. Great climbing.
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Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Split Apple Field | ||||||
V4 | ★ Trapezius | |||||
V4 | ★★ Launchpad | |||||
Sun 20th Jan 2019 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 | ★★ U Haul | 10m, 3 | ||||
Sun 20th Jan 2019 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Angel Face | ||||||
18 | ★ Chocoholic | 15m, 4 | ||||
21 | ★★ Out Of Africa | 15m, 6 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Face Race | 15m, 6 | ||||
16 | ★ Easter Rising | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Tue 6th Nov 2018 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
The Thunderdome | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Jug Jockey | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Went back up to strip the draws. Nice climb to repeat.
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23 24 | ★★ Jug Jockey | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Doable without gear, a bit runout at the top but no biggie. Long moves between good edges.
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Tue 6th Nov 2018 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Ataturk Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Colonel Malone | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 6th Nov 2018 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Year Right Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Funacation | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 23rd Oct 2018 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
17 18 | ★★ About Time | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant climb up a great sculpted wall, comfy holds, almost all sidepull pinches!
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20 | ★ La Submission | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seems like the natural line for "The Mission", but cruxier obviously.
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Sun 21st Oct 2018 - Mount Iron | ||||||
Iron Curtain | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Bastard from Gunn Rd | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Staying left felt much harder than 24, might be stiff 23 going right. Great climbing.
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Sun 21st Oct 2018 - Mount Iron | ||||||
Ironside | ||||||
24 23 | ★ Easily the Best Route on the Crag | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
The sting is in the tail. The crux felt more like a 24.
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20 | ★ Sonique (Sonic) | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy
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Sat 20th Oct 2018 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Sunnyside | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Mental As Anything | 21m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Managed it with one hang but couldn't quite put it together, I'll be back!
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22 | ★★ The Bastard of Cleardale | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 7th Oct 2018 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
27 26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 29th Sep 2018 - Te Moenga-o-Wheke / The Tors | ||||||
21 | ★★ Nudity | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had a play on top-rope, some very sporty moves at the grade!!
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10 | ★ Mr Baggins | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, even though it doesn't look like much from the ground. Would be a perfect first trad lead.
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16 | ★ Gargantua | 18m | Average | |||
Awkward moves! But decent rock
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Sun 15th Jul 2018 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Trifecta Field | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Keepers of the Funk (Left of Warmup) | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 15th Jul 2018 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Split Apple Field | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Split Apple Dyno | 4m | ||||
Fri 9th Feb 2018 - Little Babylon | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Solitude | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The bottom is shite and the top is glorious
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Sun 4th Feb 2018 - Little Babylon | ||||||
28 27 | ★★ Bish Bosh Bash Extension | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Loved the crux, but took a few whippers trying to clip the chains...
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23 | ★★ Rua Tahi | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
warmup
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24 23 | ★ Bish Bosh Bash | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 3rd Feb 2018 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Moir Moir's Mate Diamond Face | ||||||
19 | ★★ Garden Trowel Route | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stiff. Had to have a hang on the first pitch due to freezing fingers (screaming barfies and all!) but fantastic climbing. Finished up the Bowen Allan corner.
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Fri 2nd Feb 2018 - The Chasm | ||||||
19 | ★★ The Drunkin Skunkin Leprechaun | 20m, 5 | ||||
Caroline lead it
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27 26 | ★★★ Bus t' Milford | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The route of the crag really, hard bouldery start leads into incredible pockety section then some more cranking to finish, awesome!!
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26 | ★★★ Buster Gonad | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Top pitch (it's really a one pitch route from the ledge) is awesome, equipped with 11 permadraws now.
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19 20 | ★★ Another One | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed as access to the ledge, poor Caroline had to climb it with the pack on!
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10 | ★★ Access rungs | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Best route in the Darrans
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Tue 30th Jan 2018 - Babylon | ||||||
Left Hand Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Monsoon | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route. Long.
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Tue 30th Jan 2018 - Little Babylon | ||||||
25 26 | ★★★ Jugular | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough! Awesome burly moves on a beautiful wave of rock
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23 | ★★ Rua Tahi | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
22 21 | ★ Multitude | 9m, 4 | Average | |||
It would be grade 21... except for the V2/3 final move.
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Mon 29th Jan 2018 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Moir Moir's Mate West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Lucky Strike - with Caroline | 280m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Long bolted climb on quality rock. Only placed three pieces of gear on the climb. Absolutely love it!
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Sun 21st Jan 2018 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★ Let There Be Bolts | 13m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got it! Great route, loved every attempt on it.
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