Routen in Victoria für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Name courtesy of Johnny Cash for the best song title with egg in the name!

Undercut slabby west side of the Egg boulder covered with crimp rails. Deceptively awkward due to lack of footholds on the bulge. Will go from a SDS

Stand-start on left arete and traverse right along the lip on good holds. Mantel once you are established on the downward trending holds.

Careful of loose flakes at the mantel. Check integrity of these holds before pulling hard. Spotter is likely useful.

SDS Right arete of Urban Struggle

Climb the slab on the left end of the project boulder.

Fun arete to right of Wedge project, nice edges and a cruisey topout

In the nook on the uphill end of the Golden Oldie boulder. Sit start from the break, up keeping close to RH arete via interesting pockets to entertaining top out.

Sit start and hug up. Must finish standing on top with arms over your head.

Sit start

This boulder lies about 50 metres to the left of "The Totem" (if looking from the road). From a sit, start with hands matched on the excellent rail. Move directly upward using side pulls and crimps.

Eliminate obvious ledges directly below the start hold and to the left. Feet should be on holds above these ledges.

Sit start on side-pull flakes and pull straight to the crimp up high. Beware of loose flakes. Will clean up over time.

Gravelly arete. Might eventually clean up.

Obvious arete in the cluster close to the road just before light post #19. Sit start in a bear hug then cruise up. Be gentle, don't break off the thin flake!

awkwardly sit start holding crimp in scoop make a few moves before fun mantel

Standing start blunt right double arete.

Left hand low sidepull (fragile) and right hand palming the arete. Straight up. Note the detached blocky footer flake down to the right and good pocket around right on Back Track are off route.

SDS added 18/10/21. A short beginner line. Start on two left crimps and make a powerful move to poor holds on the right before moving into the original climb.

Originally done as a stand-start at about V0. Start with open hands, and left foot on the decent edge. Palm your way up to the good lip.

A short line that heads directly up the left side of the protruding block on slopers. Stand-start and mantel.

Might creep to V2 on repeat?

A slightly harder variant. Stand-start with right hand on triangular crimp and left hand on any of the slopers. Mantel to the right of the featured block on few holds, just palms.

Named for the flake with the greenery constantly growing out of it. Stand-start on crimps before heading up.

Obvious slab on left side of the quarry. Scramble start, move right then left before topping out on a jug. Precarious fall.

Almost Slap Happy but lichenous crimp up and left after same sit start.

Sit down start. Sart left hand in dish near the ground, right hand on good edge. Move into the rhino tail then top out.

Absolute classic. Start on bottom right of good ledge and finish match on the scoop under the rock. Most fun route in the world perhaps.

Sit start left off crimp rail. Easy moves to warm up on.

Up via the cool pinch.

Straight up from the pocket.

Big move out of the dank pocket to another pocket. Top.

Climb the face right of Wedgetail.

Sit start.

Start on good rail and take the crack to top right.

Simple stuff.

Hike up between the two seams. Lots of options.

Take your first steps. Up via pockets and central weakness. A genuinely good V1.

Climb the right hand edge of the block to top. Don't fall.

Mind the thorns. Sit start at break.

Slab with monos. Sit start, stay left of the crack.

SDS as for Bonehead Half Wit Hero. Juggy traverse finishing around the left arete.

SDS prow arete direct. Crack of Boatrocker Banshee and face further left eliminated.

SDS starting prone matching the blocky flat top. Up to the nose above and rockover to mantel.

Bad landing - stacked pads recommended. Crux is manteling the capstone.

SDS. Like Kagua Rouge, also eliminates the triangular block at the base.

SDS Undercut rounded arete immediately L of the crack

Face excluding the arete and crack to the left.

Lip traverse with the pedestal off route.

SDS matched on the jug. Traverse the lip all the way till at the slab on the opposite side of the block.

SDS Shelf start to pockets

SDS Face immediately right of the thin crack, Thin seam at the top.

SDS Arete

Rounded arete with hands starting in the break, eliminating the ledge and blocky base for the feet.

SDS on the ledge without using the shelf below the seam for feet. Up the closed seam corner.

SDS on the ledge. Awkward pull to the break then up the short corner above. Minus the first move starting in the break is a pleasant V0.

SDS below left edge of the scopped arete. Up via the shelf and pockets

SDS Delicate face finishing over the top block direct

SDS Face left of the arete

SDS Awkward start. Up the vague arete. Really nice stand start at V0+

SDS Left leaning crack.

SDS Short double arete

SDS Face right of the corner.

SDS Face right of the arete to flake

SDS as for Sparkling then go straight up and finish as for Pale.

SDS as per Waterloo Dark but straight up using the large jug

SDS on the shelf. Bump to the horizontal and arete above

Balancy rounded double arete to pocket

SDS First moves as for Warsteiner, then following the obvious line right and up.

Capital Fest to the cross hair pocket, then veer slightly right climbing the face without the cracks either side.

SDS Arete. Undercut start on sharp jugs

SDS on sharp jugs to the right of the arete to follow the shelf left and then finishing up just right of Third Stone Brown

SDS Right side of the face using the arete.

SDS Long first move from the blocky pinch for the right and shallow mono on the face for the left then short crack above. Eliminates all of the crack and face left of Nikolausbier Altfränkisches Dunkel.

Immediately right of Brooklyner Weisse is a short alcove sitting on a sloping rock ledge . Widmer Hefeweizen takes the overhanging capstone on the right.

Standing start with hands under the capstone and only using the face directly below for the feet.

Bad landing.

SDS Right leaning crack. Scabby rock is cleaning up.

SDS straight up front face. Crack to left and holds R of arete are out.

SDS leaning arete right of the crack.

BL. Right arete. Could be easier, just feels hard as the landing drops away.

BL. SDS face just left of the crack to a tough mantel.

SDS right side of the arete to break then pockets. Shelf of Original Bathbeer down left of the twin pockets is off route.

Takes the nose of the top block direct.

Awkward SDS left side of the face. Again not quite wide enough for two completely independent lines so shares a few holds with Point Special.

SDS middle of the short slightly overhanging face

SDS face via the break

SDS left arete

SDS Face right of the arete via the break. Straight up. standing start V0-

Sit start with starting holds to the left and right. Bump the right and shift to the platform ... ladder out the top.

Start the same as Gibbily Gobbs but traverse left then up

a sit start from the main face of the boulder. Begin sitting on the rock infront of the face. The first move is the only difficult one.

another sit start from the clif side of the boulder. Again it's a difficulty first move or two and then easy. uses the really nice natural jug

A fun sit start from the lower end of the flat face of the rock,finishing with both hands on the tip.

sit start under the crown jewel cliff on some of the juggy ledges. come out on the left side of the seaward face. get out from underneath the boulder to the large ledge and then go direct to the slot crimps about a foot below the lip and then top. fun move

A slightly easier problem starting to the left of 'surprise surprise' with much more straightforward beta. still pretty cool.

A climb on the far side of the boulder your back faces when climbing crown jewel cliff. Start down in the crack with hands on the large ledge. Harder for the short

A climb on the boulder your back faces while climbing crown jewel cliff. Starts on the slopey holds at chest height on the village in the boulder. Moves out right to the top

A sit start on the ocean side of the north boulder. Start with a right hand pinch and left hand on the top edge, move up the rails until you get to the tip and top out

A traverse across the lip of the overhanging face, topping out on the stepped down part of the right side. Quite physical moves. Good fun

A linking traverse around the boulder. Begin with the sit start on"geodude", traverse across the ocean face, around the corner, across the lip of the overhanging face. Top out on the stepped down section on the far side

going up the cliff behind and to the right of the main pewter city blocks. start with hands on the lower ledge and move up directly using horizontal cracks and good crimps

20 metres north of the main pewter city boulders is a nice looking arete up on the cliffs. This line goes up the seaward face starting with hands on the head high ledge. Downclimb from the top hold, top out if you're brave.

A boulder down and to the left of the cliff with one route up the front

Direct sit start from the left end of the break and straight up Social Anxiety.

Scarier than it is hard. Jumpstart up to the rail on the ocean face of the cliff and lever yourself up using the arete

Stand start up the obvious crack feature with a left hand in either the two finger pocket or the bigger slightly sandy pocket and the right hand in the jug

As for Fraser's Face but eliminate both aretes. Climbs well