Routen in Victoria für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Start: Start at the short yellow corner at the right-hand end of the long cave, as for "Solace".

1. 26m (19) Up into poorly protected yellow corner and exit left onto the wall and move up to a flake-line. Follow this until it ends then wend your way up the wall to belay below a corner.

2. 30m (15) Up the corner then the easy face above to the overhangs which are turned on the right.

Start: About 8 metres left of the right-hand side of the long cave where a flake-line crosses the roof of the cave to the lip. Start where the flake reaches the lip.

1. 30m (19) Pull the lip of the cave onto the wall above. Go up the wall, tending a little left until a line leads back right more towards the centre of the wall. A short flake leads to a ledge below the left of two corners.

2. 30m (18) Up the lefthand corner then easily up the wall. Take the capping roof at its widest point.

Start: Start in manky gully at left side of face.

1. 45m (-) Follow the diagonal flake on the right until it finishes. Traverse 5 metres right and climb up to large ledge.

2. 40m (19) Up wall 2 metres left of the crack to eroding ledges. Go diagonally left to the overhang, through the weakness and up the left-facing corner.

More face climbing with thin breaks.

Start: 'Excellent' route with great moves, worth a star

2m left of Inadequate Oxygen easy first section to middle wall, then break though just left of a protruding block perched on the middle ledge, upper wall to large ledge

Pleaseant but sustained face climbing

Start 1m left of Modern Exploration under the gap in the two protruding blocks on the middle ledge.

Easy ground to a number of flake moves right. Move left to go though gap between blocks, face to ledge.

Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.

Furthest right of the bolted lines.

Takes roof line at left end of stunning orange wall.

Up slab to overhang, over this then step left to small corner. Up to roof-line which is followed rightward, then up. Double ropes useful for avoiding drag. Rap off tree.

Up the middle of the wall of the descent gully. Could be done in one pitch. 32m Abseil from higher tree lands you at the head of the descent gully.

1. Start 3m R of Have I Ever Told You. Up face, aiming for short diagonal crack.

2. Over flakes, then take a R up slight ramp - finishing up thin wall above.

The enjoyable vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft to the terrace. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle) There is a rap anchor above YTTDF

Good first pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall. 2nd Pitch ascends a difficult R leading diagonal line visible just R of prow.

1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

4. 25m (-) Up

Nice pocket pulling. Used to be very poorly protected and probably still is. A few metres down left of Dark Struggle is a steeply overhung groove, becoming a crack at half-height.

A full value pitch.

Zig-zag crack 3 metres left of Not Waving But Drowning until it ends. Move right to an incipient corner. Up this then traverse left a fair distance to a vertical crack which takes you straight to the top via the centre of the summit block.

Looks very like a repeat of Fiery God.

Start at the corner 2 metres left of Bea-Lea.

Up the right-leaning crack, the roof and slab above to the thin crack to the overhang. Through the overhang and up to top.

Start as for Savage God.

The corner to the overhang, traverse right, around the first overhang then up to the roof. Traverse right.

The original finish. From the cave/ledge move left to weakness and up.

Start on ledge. Up and left to ledge of capping block. You can go directly up and over roof at 21.

Up subtle wall, starting from small platform immediately right of orange section.

Steep face on left near arete.

The best route in the area of it's grade. Starts 4m right of A Burnt Out Case at small roof/overlap. Seams and horizontals to open book corner and tricky final face.

Right hand variant of Do You Mind If I Smoke, start 5 metres to right., Below crack/seams at R end of cave. Gymnastic start up jugs and crack, then trend up and L up horizontals and bulges till you join " Do You Mind If I Smoke" at its crux.

Good climbing up a bulging finger and hand-crack which is the main line on the next buttress right of Something New.

Obvious R leading jam crack.

The route "Spatlese" (Maddox, Armstrong)is almost certainly a repeat of this.

Start 1 metre left of Sour Grapes.

Follow the stepped flakes leftish, then straight up.

A bit tricky.

The shallow corner 15 metres right of Leveret and then up the wall.

Up the shallow corner above the gap in the ledge and finish easily up the slab. Abseil from tree.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Huff And Puff" at a gap in the ledge.

Steep on brilliant rock with outrageous holds. Start 15 metres right of Mordoc is a lovely bulging orange wall. Need to check this. Climb obvious left-leading diagonal until about the 40 metre mark, then head up diagonally right.

Sit start on good holds. Okay to place right foot on good pedal board; big block on the right is off. Go straight up and top out. Way down is nice ladder to the left.

Start on big blocky jug, move up and right to finish as for 'Tiger Tooth'

Sit start mactched on large undercling. Stand up and climb up into horizontal break.

"It means no worries". Sit start as for Mufasa on large jug rail. Traverse right through dishes into a large break and then head up via edges and jugs.

Sit start directly below pocketed wall, climb straight up through pockets to tallest part of boulder.

Start as for Carnivore and go straight up using only the crack.

The discontinuous line 2.5 metres left of Meow. Step off the block just to left of Meow, move diagonally left to the thin crack that finishes at a small flake. Up the line, over the flake and up.

Direct up the thin line on the RHS, reachy fingerlocking jugs.

Start: Start as for "Cellophane Heroes"

1. 15m (-) Up to sloping ledge.

2. 20m (19) Left to sweeping arete. a few difficult moves, and the way is obvious.

The wide corner-crack just right of "Cellophane Heroes" to ledge. Climb chimney of Cellophane Heroes to finish. Descent by scrambling down ramp systems under Upper Tier.

Start at the foot of the arete, 8 metres left of Sexual Blur. Hand traverse right along the break until it runs out. Up past small undercut block, left, then finish up Sexual Blur.

At the left end of the main cliff a thin crack runs up right under an obvious hanging buttress. Start on the smooth wall down left of this.

Up and up to the roof. Crux moves out right around the bulge and step right into the shattered line

At the right-hand end of the north face of The Jellybean Theorem pinnacle is a thin, steep crack leading to a large scoop.

Take the crack to the scoop and then up and right through the roof.

A gem. Before the gully leading to The Smiley Face is an orange wall with a flake line and a thin, diagonal right-leading crack. Bridge up and climb the diagonal crack.

The first line in from the right-hand end of the wall is a little gem. Climb corner to left of overhang. Pull through then move right into line.

The steep left wall of the big corner offers sustained climbing with some brittle rock.

Wide crack where nuts are supposed to be more use than cams. Take large hexes and either 4.5 tube or equivalent Bigbro. The yellow crack in the west face is quite steep and has an exciting finish.

A bouldery little number. Up seams just left of Wet Behind The Ears.

The next crack.

Shallow corner to right-facing curving flake. Move left at horizontal weakness then up.

Great but too short. Around in the gully the pinnacle wall sports nice orange rock. take the crooked line in the middle, finishing on jugs.

Enjoyable crack at the right-hand end of "Goldfinger Wall".

Excellent climbing along the largest of the diagonals.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Peace, Love And Happiness".

1. 20m (19) Go up until it is possible to start a rising leftward traverse. Surmount the bulge and continue to a stance above loose blocks at the base of the diagonal proper.

2. 20m (19) The diagonal crack. A step right at 15 metres avoids a hard section.

An airy route taking the left arete of the huge corner.

1. 20m (-) Up the arete and the face on the left to a ledge.

2. 30m (-) Diagonally left and then up to a good ledge.

3. 18m (19) Diagonally right to a weakness in the bulge. Up and over.

Looks reasonable.

Start a few metres right of "Swinging Couples" at a short slab-corner.

Go left and up to the top of the slab, then step right and go up the line.

Start at a short corner. Good steep climbing up the right arete.

Potentially a 'Grampians' classic taking the huge, right-facing sickle in the middle of the cliff.

1. 50m (19) Climb the corner, occasionally on the right wall, to the roof. Now traverse right.

2. 15m (-) Go up to the next roof and traverse left.

3. 50m (-) Jugs.

Nice. Vague line on nose.

Up left of rooflet and up righthand crack to tree. Step up left to stance then swing on to arete to buckets. Thin and gritty climbing leads to top.

Start: Scramble on to terrace towards south (left) side of crag.

The thin seam/crack in the wall across the gully and directly behind Persia 79. Thin and tricky to get good gear.

Vegetated diagonal crack on the main face.

A short balancy traverse. Stand-start with two hands on left facing jug. Use the array of slopers and jugs to make your way right. Top out at the highest point.

Sit-start on far right in crack. Traverse leftward on gravelly jugs until you reach the bucket jug.

Deceptively committing slab. Start on good crimpy side pulls. Traverse right-ish then up.

Beautiful detached flake into low angle high ball slab. Sit-start and layback the featured left crack. Mantel, pray that it doesn't break, then top out among the moss.

Top of the flake feels precarious... but seemed to be quite strong. Be like a cat. Tread lightly.

Beautiful moves on a slightly overhung wall. Sit-start in the detached crack with feet on the block. Move up to the jug rail and gently top-out on the left.

Sit-start with hands in the crack and move up and left along the arete. Lower parts of climb are gravelly but the top part is solid.

Start at Elbow left traversing the lip into and up Humerus. Technical and strenuous crux above a potentially horrific landing.

Up and left between the large and medium scoops Western aspect/Bough Boulder side finishing up the slab.

Sit start to Gelato!

Sit start under main rooflet right hand pinch lefthand undercut pinch, up to slopers left and a nice technical mantle.

Sit start to Stirrups, left hand gaston, right hand pinch (limited stacking ok).

Sit start as for Mount to gain the crack, hand traverse the rail left (keep hands below/in crack) to join and finish as for Bridle.

Metre right of Rail via crimps.

Climb the left arete of main slab via the flake seam starting 1.5m left of the pocket.

Climb the left arete of main slab starting right hand on pocket moving up direct.

Climb as for Footsteps moving directly into and up Seamed Slab, strictly no dabbing.

From the base of the buttress L of Yasser. 3rd Pitch Steps down to the R and ascents short corner (this last pitch could be done in it's own right by rapping down 30m from the rap chains).

Start from Terrace just up R of Millionaire.

The squeeze-chimney/offwidth at the very back-left of the cove (looking downhill), first half being trickier than it looks

Sit start with hands on low flat ledge and big triangle jug. Up into easy finger-jam, and follow the the seam to the top with an excellent view.

Start as for Nae Driech, but once standing on the start jug, traverse right and continue up the middle of the face. Excellent slabby movement, but the holds on this section are a bit untrustworthy

Independant Boulder on approach track to crag. Up the corner, then around the bulge and up crack to finish.

To the right of Cut Throat Crack, the narrowing crack.

Crackline left of Nothing at All from Julia. Follow crack as it curves left, exit right and onto slab section, top out on right arete.

Use start as for Lost for Words. Up left crack and over loose blocks to finish.

One move wonder. Sit start under crack, use the offwidth to mantle ledge and walk up slab.

Start on massive jug edge and mantle.

Sit start on sidepull, up to crimp then top out.

Route to the L of Sparrow.

Start 9m left of Beast. Crack to roof then traverse right to belay as for Beauty.

Hand crack 6m right of Metamorphosis