Routen in Victoria für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Start mid Squall Line and Hurricane and climb up. Gets very thin and then steep at the end on good jugs.

The second pitch, the major left-facing corner made by the left end of Beer-pot wall is one of the nicest in the Grampians. The first pitch is good but rope management is diabolical. You could just abseil down to the base of the main corner and skip the first pitch.

1. 15m (17) Overhang then up to traverse line. Traverse right until directly below corner. Steep dirty groove to base of corner.

2. 20m (19) Magnificent corner to terrace

3. 30m (14) Undercut start then up to wide cracks to easy ground. A better option after the undercut start is to traverse left and climb cracks and walls just right or on the arete in a spectacular position.

This used a tree to get started. Unfortunately the tree was killed in the 2006 bushfire and a much harder boulder-problem start would be needed to re-establish it. Start directly below the main corner. Use a small tree (no longer there) to get onto the short wall to below the steep groove. Steep, dirty groove to ledge below main corner.

Contrived. Up just R of Arete (left arete of Transient), crossing into that route at the 3rd BR. Finish up short overhang and slab above. Can be done all on trad, although pro is a bit spaced at the bottom.

Up wall 1m R of Air brakes. Plenty of gear and soft tick for the grade.

A good climb that starts up the pleasant left facing corner to reach a halfway ledge. From the ledge, climb desperately past the bolt (or step a metre right to climb featured rock) to gain the thin seam up the headwall. Walk back to DBB.

Consider splitting the route into two pitches if you would prefer less rope in the system for the hard moves that follow.

About 25m L of BMc is a steep buttress/pinnacle with two grooves up its front. This takes the RH one. Good steep stuff.

1]26m [crux] Up and L until under groove. Up over bulge then steep groove exiting L to climb crack through overhang, crack above to top.

2] 10m Down climb back of pinnacle and up wall behind.

At the L end of the main cliff, just R of cleft/gully. The L arete of the wall with fiddley small pro.

Wall just R of large block and 2m R of Grace. A sort of direct start to The Mentz File with poor protection.

Up to then up R facing flake crack on wall just R of WHYSL.

Sit-start the protuding iron bar and make weird moves up the slab arete. Carefully mantel with slopers.

Climb the face left of Bleached Balls until the first break

Sit or stand start, up blunt arete to tricky finish.

SDS at lighter coloured section of wall with good left crimp for your left hand, move up to right hand pinch, and continue moving up to match finish on slopey top

Start as for Questionable Sequence, but move right onto good rail before top-out, and continue moving right along slopey rails until you meet the other boulder

Grade is just for the start, traverse is pretty chill - would ideally be topped out onto the ledge on the right side where there's enough space to actually get up, but would need a darn good brush first!

P1) 18 Climb Separation Anxiety to FH at half height then diagonal right to base of the hanging V corner. Up a body length or two then spacily onto the right arete and up to belay in alcove as for chicanery. P2) 19 Up and left to gain the fantastically airy left diagonal crack that slashed the headwall between SA and C. Climb it and live the good life!

The most prominent line up the guts of the main wall. Take some big gear.

1. 24m (19). Takes the big L-facing flake crack. Climb around the low overhang into the wide, steep crack. Climb this into the bottomless chimney. At the big roof, move out right onto the steep juggy wall and up to a small stance.

2. 24m. Straight up into the line above and so to the top.

The following three routes are on the front of the big pinnacle left of the main face. GOTG takes the left hand of two major lines on the face just around right of Sentinel Corner (SC is a prominent line with an enticing finger-crack-corner part way up).

1. Start as for Sentinel Corner. Up until able to move carefully rightward to step around the arete onto the left edge of the wall beneath a face crack. An intimidating few steep moves up to gain the crack/line proper. Lovely climbing up this to the top. There is a double bolt rap anchor at the top of the centre of the east face of the pinnacle.

Obvious line from sit start. Easiest to trend right at the top, but very mossy. Descend by down-climbing.

Arete left of 'Easy Crack'. Sit start at rail on right of arete, head left to large jug, then up on right-hand side of arete to committing top out (as for 'Easy Crack'). Grade uncertain.

Left side of the wall, just left of large block on the ground. Stand start, up on thin holds.

A very good route that climbs the major, left-facing corner in the upper left section of the cliff.

1. 18m From the small cairn 10m right of Fool's Gold, climb the slabby wall to a large tree (landmark) at the right end of a bushy ledge. Up the corner just right of this to a major horizontal break. Head left on this for 3m to a corner with a wide crack (#4 Friend for belay).

2. 17m (crux) Step up left to the next corner and climb it.

Good, varied climbing. Cairned. This and other names commemorate the experience of walking in circles below the crag in thick fog.

1. 18m (crux) Straight up the hard little groove 3m right of The Desperate and Divided Years to a horizontal break. Climb the steep wall above, then easy climbing to below a roof. Up the flakes to under the right side of the roof, then go left under it and back right up the crack above it to a corner.

2. 12m Step right onto the arete and climb it in a dramatic position.

Variants on Late for the Sky. Climb up the corner, as for Late for the Sky, but continue up the crack. Head left below an overlap and up the hanging corner as for Late for the Sky. Traverse right at the overlap to a flake, head up this and the crack above.

Start: Jam crack left of 'Grumpy'

Good crack. Up R from foot of BP to undercut crack in R wall of BP. Up this and the line above.

Start as for Time Out. At the ledge move left into the hanging crack and up.

Start 2m R of M.H.P. below a "diving board' at head height which in turn is below a shallow scoop. Clip the first hanger and then pull humourously onto the diving board. Clip the second hanger and pull up into the scoop. From here straight up past good small wires and micro cams. A third hanger protects the top.

Takes the line following the distinctive right leading arch/overhang. Sustained and thin. The best outing on the cliff. Possibly originally aided sometime in the past.

1. 30m 19 Undercling up and out R [old peg runner]. Climb more easily up the corner above to the cave under the final arch.

2. 20m 10. Up and off R, or step L and follow diagonal up L.

RH Finish: Kelvin Longhurst, Ian Ravenscroft (alt) mid 1980s. LH Finish: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns. (alt) 13.3.89

The next line to the R. A steep layback start.

1. 25m 19. The line to the ledge with a tree.

2. 20m 9. Easy slabby wall.

The steep dogleg offwidth crack is quite a struggle. Take BD 3s and 4s.

1. 18m Straight up the crack, through bulges, then onto a small stance.

2. 7m Up easy rock to the top.

Starts 1m left of landmark corner of “Out of Lockdown”. Climbs direct up the wall to blank slab above ledge height. Tend right to join “Return to Lockdown” for the final few metres.

Project. No bolts please.

Straight above F.T.M. Can be combined with F.T.M. as one pitch but watch the landing if you fall off clipping the first bolt. Climb the sustained wall past 4 fixed hangars to lower offs. Previously described by G Baxter as "Return to Lockdown" but not actually completed by him.

Steep and exciting climbing on positive holds. Start 3m down and R of DH. Climb steep wall then finish up the blunt arête above between DH and CR.

Tricky start to gain the main line of the cliff. Up to small overhang 2m R of HP, R to line, then up and L in line.

Links together possibly the cleanest rock on the cliff. Starts as for CRC at reachy R leading overlap. R into line, up, then take tricky R leading line across wall for 5m. Then straight up wall, finishing up blunt arete.

Sustained corner at RH end of face. Exit R at top to avoid loose block.

5m R of BH. Easily up onto detached flakes. Clip FH and step R. Up and L to groove and up this past FH. Finish up wall to R of flake [wires and small cams].

Undercut crack on front of buttress 5m R of CofT. Desperate start leads to good upper wall. A good grade 17 variant is to start around the R arête and climb out L easily onto ledge then finish up top wall.

Starts 6mts left of DW at the rt facing corner crack. Up the rounded crack and corner above through bulge and up thin corner to twin cracks formed by questionable micro pillar. At horizontal break, step rt to finish up Dirty Work.

Chains above this, take care lowering / rapping on 50m.

Starts at the steep left facing corner on the left side of the main face. Up to ledge, step left and up the line to the top.

Technical thin crack. The next outcrop R is bigger but has only one worthwhile section on its far L. Walk up and R 150m to this. The crack is obvious.

Lovely, sustained and delicate face climbing. A BD4 comes in suprisingly handy low down. Takes the thin cracks and seams towards the LH edge of the main face. Start up on the L then step R and up seam.

Around the RH edge of the cliff. The RH hand crack line leading to a steep offwidth finish [BD 5].

Above the lower cliff is a band of broken buttresses. Above these is a short cliff line. Best approached from 100m L of the lower cliff by following a R leaning ramp though the the broken buttresses. The cliff has two tall buttresses with a lower wall between them. 15m L of the LH tall buttress a short wall leading to a tree. Up seams for 5m, then step L to ledge on L arête, up to tree.

May be easier with a clean, but has one pretty dicey move as it stands. Good. Line, starting at left-facing corner 8m right of Dawn Patrol. (Fourth line from right end of left cliff.) From ledge at top of corner climb line, moving very slightly right after hard section.

Left crack on right end of main face. Leads to an excellent finger-crack.

Varied climbing with a distinct crux. Take two #4 Friends. The off-width 2m right of Down Syndrome to ledge on the right. Up and left above ceiling finishing up the blunt arête.

Climb on second tier up. Climb crack to ledge, follow face up past 2 bolts, then sloping face, follow up face to top.

Shares the same crack start as Hobby Bolter, but traverse R after the crack to the thin crack. Nice moves, with the crux getting onto the top slab.

Climb Pale Rider to just above the bolt. Place a high piece in the crack, then step across the face to a FH. Continue left and up to reach a good cam placement. Belay from the Pale Rider rap station or use a large tree back from the cliff

Instead of traversing out to the hanging corner climb the knobbly crack up the steep wall above the slab.

Takes the upper buttress between The Preacher and Son of a Preacher. At the top of pitch 1 of Son of a Preacher clip the FH around to the left of the belay bolts. Thin moves left onto the nose, then up more easily [trad gear on the easy ground if needed] to abseil bolts.

In the gully behind the Western Lookout is a short wall with a clean cut crack towards its right hand side. Lovely rock and tricky jamming.

Start 3m L of Mr Splat. Up slab, through two small overlaps and then up to the R facing corner at the R end of the roof. Step L at the upper overlap, up slab and headwall.

Located on a small pinnacle 15m R of the main wall. Obvious shallow groove up the middle of the downhill face. Not technically very hard but poor rock and suspect pro make for a trying lead.

Dedicated to WFG Armit. “Outstanding line; superb rock”. Climb water-polished groove down and just right of All Along the Watchtower to prominent, overhanging V-crack splitting the cliff. Climb this to ledge. Finish up easier crack (it’s not a chimney as described in the guidebook) above (as for pitch two of Voodoo Chile).

Although struggling to maintain its independence, involves good, steep climbing.

1. 20m (crux) Start as for PUV. At 5 m veer up left to overhanging head wall 1.5m right of VC (and left of SCFF). Up to ledge.

2. 10m right on ledge and up to pinnacle on The Things I Used to Do. Straight up overhang above.

Supposed to be rather good, but I doubt anyone has ever repeated it to verify its quality or grade. Takes the prominent stepped corner line down the L hand end of the cliff.

1. 30m (17) Climb broken flakes under L end of low roof to prominent L facing corner. Up this for a few meters then diagonally up L across slab to roof. Squeeze through gap, bridge next corner then step L to arete. Through overlap to jugs and stance.

2. 20m (19) Awkward, sustained climbing up twin diagonal cracks to vertical flaring crack. Reach up and R to good holds and swing across to a stance. Step down to lower stance then traverse delicately R across wall passing a carrot [12mm, sling with a wire] at head height. Holds improve near arete. Up.

The front face of the StheS block has a central seam starting above a horizontal break at half height. Cairned.

Easily up onto the large boulder on the R then up the diagonal crack at the RH edge of the face to the horizontal break. Step out L to the seam and up with some steep and energetic moves. The seam could be approached more directly from the L but the rock is a bit suspect.

A good first pitch which is a bit fierce near the top where the aid was originally used - it was originally graded 18 with the aid. Roland rarely bothered to upgrade things when he freed them. So this has been undergraded at 18 for decades. The upper pitches wander to get to the top. It is possible to find abseil trees but many of these are a bit suspect after the fires.

Start: Takes a thin seam/crack line R of Morgan [altho' it is possible to start Morgan at the same point]. Faint initial.

1. 18m (19) Up over blocks moving R at 7m to fine groove [PR] up this to ledge.

2. 18m (11) Up a couple of meters then traverse L to arete. Up wall passing loose flake and thin crack to ledge.

3. 12m (10) 'Arete' to ledge

4. 15m (12) 5m R and up corner.

Good climbing, technical and sustained. Protection is mostly small stuff [RPs useful] and is fiddly to place.

Start: As for P2 of 'The Pirate'. Head up and R to flake above overlap. R to thin crack and up steeply.

A combination of 'Stormbringer' LHV and 'The Pirate Variant' to give a good sustained grade 19 route.

Start: As for 'Stormbringer'

1. 25m (19) Up 'Stormbringer' to overhang, move 2m L to arete. Up to overlap then veer R up wall to recessed triangular ledge. Up to stance on arete.

2. 20m (19) Up to overlap, hand traverse L to rest under prominent pulpit feature. Steeply up L to dimply ledge under roof. Step L and finish up 'The Pirate Variant'.

An exciting battle up a steep line with a lot of suspect rock. Quality of protection is limited by the quality of rock it is in. A good route if you are prepared and capable for old school 19 on questionable rock.

Start: A large steep yellow wall up and R of the ramp leading to 'Mermen'. It has a couple of obvious cracks up it and MoW takes the LH one. Scramble up to its base, careful as the ground is a bit unstable around here.

1. 35m (19) Up wall to ledge then steep crack.

2. 15m (8) Wander up to top.

Looks good, and rather unlikely for the grade. As it is a Peter Martin route it is possibly under graded.

Start: As for Yardarm

Good climbing with some sections of fragile rock and fiddly gear.

Start: Starts at the very left of the cliff, part way up the descent gully, on a short nice west facing wall.

From V corner move R to nose, L around roof and up to second tree. Abseil from this.

Start: V corner leading to roof down R of 'Blackbeard'.

Enjoyable wall climbing which moves between the 2 seams to find the easiest way up.

Start: 2m R of 'Bowrail', 2 thin lines. Start from large slanting block on ground.

Not so much an independent route as an attempt to do something useful with the neat little corner which 'Landlubber' starts up before it spends the next 80+m in dirty gullies. Whilst not great this variant does stay on real rock the whole way.

Start: 10m R of 'Jolly Roger' is a R facing corner.

1. 45m (19) Up corner with a couple of intense moves near the top. At top of corner head up L to shallow groove, up this to smooth slab, move L below slab into 'Jolly Roger'.

2. 15m (12) Up crack as for 'Jolly Roger' to large terrace [you arrive directly under the obvious vertical crack line of 'Jolly Roger Direct Finish' 18]

3. 30m (16) Follow R leaning line R of JRDF finishing up headwall. [Jolly Roger P4 starts up this line but traverses off R about level with the old rusty peg below the overhangs]

After the first nice corner the climb deteriorates badly.

Start: As for LPS

1. 62m (19) Up corner as for LPS then up and R to line of blocks, up these. [I am sure it must be possible to split this pitch]

2. 25m (-) From top block climb choss to join 'The Plank' at its final chimney.

3. 18m (14) Chimney.

A combination of routes which has become very popular. A good option for those who would rather climb an overhanging wall than an overhanging crack.

1. 18m (18) As for 'The Lonely Sea'

2. 27m (19) Up 'The Lonely Sea' to the horizontal ledge. Up under overhangs tending R to the sentry box on 'The Last Grain Race'. Up thin crack airily past an old peg on a steep wall. Step R (abseil possible here) or go and up past a couple of steps to the terrace.

Another old classic, overshadowed by the variants which use bits of it to make better climbs.

Start: Crack 4m R of TLS.

1. 32m (19) Up the crack L of the pillar to a narrow ledge at 23m [possible belay], move L a few moves and up crack to sentry box. Steeply up thin crack past old peg. Step R to small stance (abseil from here 30m).

2. 18m (15) 'Steep' crack then easier walls and cracks to terrace.

Combines the best bits of 'La Mer' and 'The Last Grain Race' in a direct line. Intimidating climbing in exhilarating positions.

Start: As for TLGR. Up the crack as for TLGR to the narrow ledge [possible belay]. A rotten crack leads to a sentry box directly above. Gulp a couple of times then climb out onto the wall above, scurry quickly L to a crack, up this to a ledge [original belay spot]. Continue up cracks and corners to terrace.