Ascents in Australia by Nick Murphy

FFA.

FFA.

Loved this whole route, even with all the choss and dirt, real adventure feel about it. First up the first abseil is definitely doable on a single 70m rope BUT the second abseil is not, would absolutely require an 80m for a single rope rap. Ideally the first climber would carry a big brush for cleaning, and the second a hammer for breaking off dodgy bits of rock, though with more traffic this will definitely clear up eventually. Perfect bolting by the setters, well spaced and definitely the right setting for the grade and style. No sign of the birds nest mentioned on the final pitch in the pocket so may have vacated now.

Great climb but definitely not for the inexperienced, do not make this your first multi and do not do this if you're only just climbing at or just over the grade. There's more potential in this area for other link ups or directs, but well done again to the setters for the phenomenal effort of finding a way up this cliff!

Requires many hand to fist sized cams for the mid section, was unable to find any sight of the boulder with the ringbolt in it, only finding a somewhat precarious boulder about 20m up (which could be the same one). A little stiff for the grade maybe, a bit old school for sure. Ended up linking the first two 'pitches' together to the base of the small roof of the third pitch. The large tree mentioned in the description is either missing, or a much smaller dodgy looking one being your only option on a belay stance and definitely not suitable.

The climbing is okay, would highly suggest inspecting route from above beforehand unless you're the kind who's onsighting 20+ Trad routes, poor placements throughout with mostly flaring cracks, and rock quality is low ie pretty soft. Might have been better in the past.

Great route with plenty to make you think and all to do with balance and footwork

Very good, not quite sure if it's 22 though, felt more like a 20 maybe

FFA.

Good climbing, definitely not a recommended lead for anyone who's only just starting out or even a little beyond this level. Gear is questionable along with rock quality.

Feels a lot harder than it used to, holds are quite worn and rounded now, and often covered in a lot of moss and dirt, bolts aren't the easiest to find. Definitely doesn't feel like an 8 anymore compared to the first time I did it 10 years ago.