Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Interesting start through middle of overhangs 12m right of Iron Contract to #2 RP and fixed #2 RP higher up. Up line.

Right end of roof 8m right of Stiff Upper Lip. Start Marked. Up blind corner to roof moving right to second roof (tricky pro) then into corner and up.

Start Marked to right of Cold Shoulder. Up crack corner to second bulge. Hard layaway over bulge (poor pro), up crack to mantle and dyno.

Approx. 20m R of Twist of the Wrist. A seam leads R to a crack corner. Up wall L of seam (BR), then seam to corner (BR) and crack.

L one of two cracks in impressive short wall. Up to BR, Step R, then up on jugs to two BRs. Up (PR) to crack. Up.

Up the arete.

UP 'Back Roads' for a couple of moves, then right and up wall (BR) to groove.

Up through bulge then thin crack up wall (2BRs).

Start: 4m left of 'The Idle Rich'

10 m left of ES, up rib of rock aiming for corner and roof. Move right under roof to semi hanging belay at 30 m or continue to top. Belay at 2 FHs. Cannot abseil from these, abseil possible over SPE with care.

50m left of start of east face. At the toe of the first black buttress, heading up and right to prominent overhanging dihedral. The route runs below this to belay at stance level with top of dihedral. Then up open corner to top. 22 faintly initialled at start

1. 30m (19) 12 quickdraws. Can abseil from chains to ground

2. 15m (22) 6 quickdraws. Up to DBB. Walk off.

Starts at the toe of the second black buttress, 3 m left of BC. Up for 5 bolts on poor rock then goes left and through 2 roofs on better rock to DBB at 30 m. Route realigned on some small aperture hangers, take narrow profile quickdraws.

15 m L of Barely credible and about 15 m R of where the wall changes direction down towards the base of the orange buttress. Large white streaks on the rock. This follows a R trending blocky ramp. Pitch 1 30 m grade 19. High first bolt, follow poor rock for 30 m to belay at chain. Possible to abseil from here. Pitch 2 16 m up on better rock with hard move through bulge 19 A0, or grade 22 to top out

The groove up the centre of the ampitheatre to DBB. Starts at small pedestal onto column and steps right as it starts to steepen into main line.

bolted hanging crack 1m left of 'Capricious'.

Start as for DMG first bolt, but go direct, steeply passing 3 more FHs to join finger to hand crack to pedestal. Then up middle of buttress following intermittent cracks through 2 rooflets. Solid protection with single rack from micro cams to #2, and many wires from large RP size up( offsets useful). Same anchors on ledge as ExSlovenian. Easily toproped after doing that route.

Starts left of corner, stepping across right, then left again after some friable rock to thin crack. Shares last bolt and anchors with DMG

Start 5m left of the the No Trachyte for old Men corner. Up wall, through roof and up to the undercut block passing 5 bolts. A short section of technical jambs and laybacks gains the perfect hands corner, above which a cam protected wall, leads up and right to double bolt anchors. Caution: 70m rope needed to lower or double ropes to rappel.

Starts on buttress at right hand end of sector. Stick clip high bolt to protect bouldery start, then up slightly right into thin crack that takes small gear to finger size. DBB as for arete on left, or belay on slab and finish up NCM pitch 2.

Undercut start on left side of arete and up left face, heading right to anchors before slab. Anchors fixed hangers only at present with single maillion.

The sharp overhanging arete 15 m right of waterfall. Start on ground, not up ramp. Optional small finger size wire or cam after last bolt. Optional small wires to start, or use a long stick. Walk back to DBB.

Lay away the thin seam 5m right of Fools Gold. Start on ramp. Optional cam or nut in pocket between first and second bolts. DBB

Stemming groove to finger/hand crack, just right of Fools Gold. #0.25 cam break between 2nd and 3rd bolts, finger to hand size gear to the top

Start off block left of pillar leaning against wall as for LT. Up Past bolt to gain finger crack that continues up from the top of the pillar to share anchors with LT. Gear to #1. Lots of small cams.

Start from top of block just left of large pillar that is leaning on main wall. Good 0.75 in undercling to left, then step left into thin seam that runs up blunt arête. A set of TCUs and cams to 0.75 and a good medium wire. DRBB

Start as for Meritorious, but at ledge go left to arête. DBB above on slab, not for lowering off. Move right to chain anchor to clean.

Stemming groove and hanging arête 10 m R of BOB. Belay back off trees. Take C3s for the groove. A single bolt protects the crux move into the corner.

The face left of BOB.

Start at flakes in middle of wall. Up with C3 s and wires in thin crack to right of flakes for protection, to pass roof on left side. Green and red C3 essential at this point. Move up then right to join crack which widens, then from ledge step right and slab up line of least resistance to white gum belay above BoB.

Very thin crack 4m left of arête, next to pillar, straight up to tree anchor 2/3 of way up cliff. Thin gear in bottom 2/3, #1 cam useful in horizontal half height

Start on right side face, climb around blunt arete to undercling seem following U bolts to top.

Same start holds as GS, but from the pinch move left and down into jug, then up the obvious line to a rail over the lip.

Starts on left hand sidepull, and right hand sloping crimp. High foot, slap in, pull over, bish, bash, bosh.

Sit start on opposing side-pulls of the undercut block. Work your way up the right hand rail before stepping left onto the face, then up and over through a thin top-out.

A long and sustained first pitch (best to do it in two pitches, belaying off double bolts), Double Ropes essential (make sure they are both a full 50m). Take one bolt bracket, eleven quick draws and a #1 Friend to back up the single bolt belay, and some wires to protect the short easier second pitch.

Start: The first slab on the main slabby face, right at the left-hand corner, a couple metres left of 'Freedom Crack'.

1. 50m Use a stick to clip the first bolt, then climb (crux) directly up to it. Move up and left delicately to next bolt (a fall before clipping this results in a ground fall), then continue up broken flakes to cleaner friction slabs above and double bolts. Some parties belay here Continue up smooth slab to horizontal break, step up over this to bolt belay.(#1 Friend in break at your feet).

2. 30m Straight up the final short crack as for 'Snakeskin Flake', then continue up to belay at trees.

Start: The slab between 'Snakeskin Flake' and 'New Romantic'. It needs a direct finish and a bold leader.

1. 30m Straight up the slab via 4 BRs then traverse left to the double bolt belay of 'Slap And Tickle'

2. 30m As for 'Slap And Tickle'.

Start: At the slab 2m. left of the original corner crack start. A very scary direct start to the original route. Feeling lucky?

Straight up the black slab passing to the left of the first bolt(but clip it). It joins the original route at the second bolt. Continue as for original route.

Stand start matched on the good sloper. Move up, pinch, high foot and layback. Mantle on the mossy jugs. Great climb.

Compression problem left of Barbed Wire

Start on the left same as Abducted but stay out slightly to avoid using the arkward hand jam and reach over the top to the sharp jug or crack.

Best not to fall. Slabby highball problem with delicate balance moves. Crimps if you can find them.

Start on edge and side pull, move up to the good feature, and establish a heel and palm press. Very little up higher so the top out is committing, so trust the feet and mantle. Great climb.

sit start with left footer, use face crimps and arete trending right.

Start on side pull and awkward high sloper. Smear and establish high foot. The crux is the slopey arete with some fairly dynamic moves. Mantle to finish. Possibility for a sit start.

Balancy start L of blunt arete. Crimp to top.

Sit start matched on large sidepull with feet out right in a layback position. Left hand far left into sloper, move feet left. Right hand intermediate then up up to decent crimp. Left hand up to good edges then up to various jugs for top out.

Where CC moves left out of the corner buckle up and blast straight up the line and overlaps above past 4(?) well spaced fixed hangers and trad. On an earlier attempt pre bolts the leader fell 30m to land largely unharmed (physically at least) on the slabs below the belayer. He then promptly gave up climbing! The other half of the party returned, placed minimal hardware and finished the job.

Possibly the first three pitches of Cracked Pane. Start 50 m R of Stonewall Jackson.

1. 35 m Prominent weakness to headwall, cracks. Move R to corner, then wide crack to stance.

2. 35 m Prominent corner tending R to top of ramp. Up to blocks below groove.

3. 40 m Steep wall and groove, then L to join Flight of the Phoenix. Belay on ledge level with top of diagonal overhang.

Starts out of Alindinsane at large block with poor bolt belay.

1. 45 m Up, then R through bulge, then up L towards yellow-orange rock. Up L Through bulges to poor stance. Poor rock and pro.

2. 45 m Wall above, then slightly R through bulges. Traverse L along ledges 8 m below summit roofs and L of prominent prow.

3. 35 m Up wall easily.

An earlier direct finish was apparently done by persons unknown in late 70s/ early 80s.

Takes the striking arete R of Ginsberg and follows it all the way.

Steep and sustained linkup pitch between Icarus and Falling Feathers.

1-2: As for Icarus.

3: 35 m Traverse R from Icarus corner to weakness. Up and slightly R to base of overhanging groove. Groove, then L at top. Up, then R to crack in slab. Crack and wall to base of Icarus buttress and Falling Feathers.

1. (22) 45m

2. (20) 35 m

3. (22) 50m

4. (14) 30 m

5. (5) 20 m

A beautiful route venturing through some steep and hostile territory. Start halfway between Virago and A Little Rainbow at a prominent straight groove/crack heading for orange overhanging pitch.

1. 30 m Scramble up slabs to large blocks at base of R facing corner-crack.

2. 45 m Corner­ crack to just below small overlap (some poor rock). Hanging belay?

3. 15 m Corner-crack to shattered blocks below roof. May be able to link this with pitch 2.

4. 20 m Free to start of crack, then aid (pitons - some in place: knife-blades, small angles) as crack dies and leans R. L over roof. Semi-hanging belay (wires) on lip.

5. 40 m Flakes to ledge below and L of end of flake. L along ledge, then slab up L to hanging belay in crack.

6. 40 m Crack until it leans L, then slab to ledge.

7. 45 m Large boulder, then crack to easier ground.

Groove in middle of clean W Face. Bolts. Two rests.

Sit start on good incut crimps and up good holds on face to moderately difficult mantle

Climb Razoback standing start from the ground.

Start up Razel Razel finishing via a full lap of Pea & Ham in both directions before stepping off.

Star up Razel Razel and continue 360deg around boulder via Stile on Kevin Bacon side of bloc.

Start as for Razoback left small undercut, right edge moving right to finish via StNE.

LHV of Sit the Nice Edges (StNE) starting left hand on edge, right hand on shark tooth moving up/right.

Climb as for Corewell starting both hands on shark tooth. Quite nice, technical.

Start as for Nice Edges continue anticlockwise 360deg around block via Stile on KB side of boulder.

Start as for StNE finish as for Vo.

Climb as for VoVo detouring via Reverse Crumper.

Start both feet on bridging slab opposite Smokestack moving directly from the crimps of the arete, right and down into the low groove (avoiding the slab in between) before finishing up Rindless/KB. Contrived eliminate but quite good.

Start as for Rindless moving anticlockwise to Arete and continuing another 360deg around bloc via Stile on KB side of boulder.

Start as for Badmington finish as for Style.

Direct version of Rindless sit starting matched on the crimprail, fraction more morpho than original.

Climb Rindless past its crux before moving left full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Climb Sit the Nice Edges past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Climb Rindless past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Climb Sit the Nice Edges past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Start as for Sit the Nice Edges, complete a full lap around Razoback, next climb as for Crumper before completing another lap around Razoback in opposite direction to previuos.

Climb as for Bermuda before bridging back over to Smokestack to finish up CER.

Start as for Rindless and finish as for Bermuda.

Start as for Bermuda Bacon and finish as for Nevada.

Climb as for Nevada finishing via CEL.

Climb as for Smokified! finishing via CEL.

Climbs as for Nevada adding a lap out and back on Crumpet of the South 1 before summiting.

Climb as for Smokified! adding the lap of Crumpet of the South 1 before summiting.

Climb as for Real Crumpeteer exiting via Ramp Tramp.

Start in centre of chimney moving East to finish as for Crepe.

Path of least resistance up Dead Edges wall via the bluntish arete right side of chimney, technical & fraction morpho.

Sit start to Dead' Arete from low rail/crimp centre of Dead Edges wall.

From crimps/low rail.

Climb Sit the Crumpeteer and finish via The Real Crumpeteer (no picnics on shelf, plenty of rests elsewhere!)

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing as for Attack of the Field Mouse.

Climbs Worm starting from outer aspect of Eastern Chimney.

Crimpy & technical problem centre right of the steep slab, not a perfect landing.

Start four points of contact left side of West chimney traversing right into and up Schooie (stay off the lowest part of shelf).

Sit start to Porkorama on the flake, large low footer far left is out.

Climb Porkorama starting from the low step to the left with both hands matched on the large undercling.

Climb Forest Slab starting from the lower thin diagonal crimps.

Sit start to Tree Corner/Offwidth, superb.

Climb Forest Slab via the vertical rail eliminating the good left crimp for hands (still in for feet). All eliminates via this finish allow one light brush (not weight) of the right wall with your back, a second dab or any weight and you must start again for the tick.

Sit start on huge jug and up big moves on good ledges to finish matched on jug to the right just to the left of Sheer Terror. Top out optional but adds a lot of fun and not much difficulty. Probably climbed many times and with many variations but found with chalk on it in 2017