Routes in Central for selected grade

Steep wall with cool feature.

Start low and up to tricky mantle.

Start at the very back of the boulder and traverse R around the boulder, with a pumpy (and sometimes a little grainy) finish.

Stand start on big jug at lip of overhang then straight up.

A classic sit start.

Start with a double undercling and smear feet. Go straight up.

As classic as they come. Very high and scary. Up the arête to the steep wall and out the overhang on amazing jugs to a lip crux. Bring lots of pads and be aware that if you fall off this problem you could be seriously hurt.

Standing start using horn and up via next horn to crumbly sslopers. Bad landing.

Standing start. Undercling up to not so good rock.

Sit start and up "An Inconvenient Struth"

Up the obvious cool features. A nice under cling mid way up.

A classic arête. A high ball with bad landing. Start with fridge move, work way out right on corner and up slightly left.

Stand start on good horn, straight up. A classic steep wall.

Started a little higher on "Super Pumpy"

Classic, starting with low sidepull for RH and sloper for left. Up via slopers to big pocket and a thought provoking, but easy mantle.

Obvious crack visible from horseshoe bay directly below lookout. Start up flake to ledge. Blast up offwidth and hope you're on the nice list.

Start under rock on bucket hold and go up through angled crack. Don't dab on the big left block

Sit start from the sloper. Up and left. Short problem.

Choss pile that looks amazing and obvious line. Sit Start.

Traverse from waterline below roof and up to top right of wood pile trending right. Then top out on steepest part of wall.

Awesome line if you manage to keep your shoes dry.

Stay left of the line of bolts to avoid merging over to Azkaban

This is the first line of bolts on the far left of the crag. A really fun start and an interesting overhang to finish things off. Really sharp, gritty rock. Do it clean or loose skin... lots of skin.

Sit start left of the detached smaller rock. Straight up.

Sit start right of the roof for 'chapel'. Trend left, Stay low, go under the roof, and follow the cheese grater jugs up to an obvious feature with a sketchy flake (x-d out).

A fun combination of overhang climbing leading into some cool stemming moves.

Pumpy with sharp holds, but not super technical.

Potential to continue right, or link up with 'splinter' or 'half metre high club traverse routes.

Start as for Cathedral but stick to the roof and turn the lip to finish straight up without the break to the right.

Starting above the rocks, follow the line trending up and left to finish on the spike at the high point of the weakness.

Sit-start under the finish of 'socialism'

Trend right to the base of ' athletes foot.

Long-low traverse.

Optional extension to link'up athletes foot.

Long, low traverse.

Start at the 'Athletes foot' sit start. Traverse left (underclings, and jugs aplenty). 4ish metres. Throw left to a small rail, then bump to a jug.

Optional extension to some highball and higher grade stuff.

This climb is often top-roped and is a fine, technical and sustained route. Climb the line 1mtr left of the arete, using a few desperate lay-aways off the arete. Top out at the DBB.

A short but enjoyable line that is more challenging than it first appears. Rappel off tree at bottom of Main Wall to access anchors. The missing plate is now in place and also a bolt for the belayer at the start to avoid falls from the small ledge

A short, pumpy line with an early crux which has two possible variations. Stay left after the first bolt for the much harder of the two. There is a DBB at the 4th clip for top-roping and lower off or continue up to top out.

Slightly overhung start makes this a good challenge but is easy in comparison to R-ocktane a few metres to the left. Arguably the best textured (grippy) rock at Playpen is on this wall. Climb up to the ledge to find the DBB.

Start is at the bottom right-hand corner of the face below the belay boulder. Work up and to the left to reach the first bolt and then head straight up. Name was derived from the first top-rope expedition with eagles soaring overhead and colourful language from the Italian, Loneclimber.

Sit start variation on the knife edge of the impalement rock.

Sit start on two crimps directly under bulge of the prow, heading straight up to mantle.

Start on blocky jug at the back of the overhanging block. Trend right through overhang using pockets and underclings. Mantle right side of the arete.

Up white wall and out through disquieting holds to top You are responsible for your own safety

Sport climb at the headland From car park follow track to the left, towards the headland, until you reach a track with a tree stump on right. Go down this dirt track to a rocky cove and go left. The first climb is behind the large boulders and the other about 50 to 100m past this towards the headland. Both well bolted with ring bolts.

Named after a faithful friend who is so wiped he couldn't make the trip this Easter. Tricky start to slaby finger crack breach the first overhang on jugs to hands/ finger crack with a few hand hold to the second over hang get some exposure navigating this overhang to chimney top out super fun climb!

Memorable route with a memorable name.

Start on left side of Cathedral Cave. Up the juggy start to break, passing three bits of fixed protection. Long move off the break using jug and good holds, continue to the top swerving in and around another 10 pieces of fixed protection.

You are a mug if you don't get on this super superb climb.

Belay on tree back from edge.

Airy climbing following the great holds up the obvious arête.

The finger crack.

A great climb with a tricky and committing crux. The rock is excellent despite appearances to the contrary down low. Starts up the deep line at the far right hand end of the wall. Up the line into back of chimney. Face climb up the back of chimney to a rest. Then tackle the top cracks to a slightly funky exit move.

This climbs the obvious smooth orange corner on the cliff right of Porange Wall. A steep, exposed route with sustained climbing the whole way.

1. Grade 21, 15m. Layback up the thin sharp overhanging corner.

2. Grade 18 with V2 start, 25m. Climb the steep fractured line straight above. It has a hard move off the deck.

An intimidating and unrelenting twin crack corner in an exposed location.

1. 8m. 14. Climb the wide crack behind the finish of Snake Skin Crack and belay at the bottom of the corner.

2. 25m. 21. Up the steep corner.

A classy finger crack layback corner. Up the steep corner with increasing difficulty, past a couple of overlaps, until the crack thins right down and you can reach right to a monster bucket. Swing out onto the face and climb straight up to the tree belay.

A desperate, smooth overhanging chimney in an outrageously exposed location.

1. 30m. 19. Start below the steep wide crack on the right wall of the gully to the left of Minarete. Up gully to the start of the crack proper. Up the wide crack (bring big cams) until you hit the steep wall, then go left up easy ramp to ledge and tree belay.

2. 30m. 21. Climb the stunning orange corner, mantle over the chockstone and establish yourself in the tight chimney. The fun starts here. Slither upwards past two bolts avoiding a few dubious blocks in the back of chimney. Traditional gear leads onto the third bolt, engage what ever body parts needed to move horizontally in an amazing position to a double bolt lower-off just below the cliff top.

Start left of arête. Bridge up to bolt, then hard slab/wall move to right. continue past crux to ledge. Move around to right and up twin cracks. At next ledge move around to right again put your heart in your mouth your trust in a god of your choice, step over void and up to next ledge on holds that only get bigger. Watch out for wasps on the way. There are two rap belay bolts on ledge. Pitch 2 Pull onto wall beneath corner. Once established on wall over ledge move right again. thank a god of your choice trust to the rock and up up up. Rap off tree behind and left. 60 meter rap.

Start under the wide crack about 30m left of Personality-Free Zone. Off balance moves to gain wide crack. Climb desperately up the offwidth (bring large cams) then the overhanging jam crack above. Finally, take to face climbing to belay on ledge at base of large chimney. Rap off the fixed gear. The deep chimney above is sure to be exciting but has not been climbed.

Chimney above secrets found. Awesome offwidth climbing protectable using small gear in the crack on the right. Unfortunately after pulling over the lip above the offwidth there is multiple fridge sized rocks resting on loose rubble.

The huge corner system that bissects Cow Tracks. Much better than it looks. Take big gear.

1. 30m. 21. Climb easily up the vegetated line until you reach a body crack. Slither desperately up this and continue more easily to belay on a stack of boulders on the half way ledge. Led by Tony Barten.

2. 35m. 20. Up the short offwidth (crux) and pull up nervously over the protruding blocks, which are actually quite solid. The remainder of the pitch is a long chimney system involving excellent rock and protection. Led by Alex Cristino.

Starts at the very steep twin cracks. P1: Levitate up the steepness to find yourself on a beautiful face. This line takes the right finger crack up to the offwidth. Trad belay on ledge. P2: Continue up the crack over a spooky block and some trick moves then up onto easy face above.

Extending Q up the natural line to top out the cliff via a spectacular traverse pitch.

1. (21) 30m Climb Q until overhanging chimney. Instead of bailing right, continue up chimney to awkward move establishing in short finger crack (crux). Continue through to belay from crack in back wall. Extending belay to top of finger crack helpful.

2. (18) 15m Climb up corner crack and body chimney above belay pulling onto slab with hand crack and continuing to belay from corner crack at rear wall.

3. (17) 15m Look right from belay in awe at incredible horizontal crack travelling towards dam. Plug in some gear and swing towards distant footer before embarking on a memorable journey with perfect jamBs and crimps all the while finding your feet. Belay from blocks at end of traverse on ledge.

Scramble up from ledge to large boulder at top of crack above 3rd pitch belay. Bring 7m of cord to back up boulder rappel down to pitch one belay anchor. 2 absails to reach ground.

The well protected thin crack on a ledge far right on cold rock wall. cruse up the finger crack before it closes prematurely to less than ideal tips....think tall thoughts.

Start just left of CS following the line of bolts and natural gear to anchors

The obvious stonking sickle crack high on the left-hand end of Four Seasons Point. Has the aura of a good ol' Arapiles adventure climb. Above and left of 'CRAIGS Crack' and 'After You'.

Scramble up small wall to belay ledge at the base of the line. Steep jamming, adventurous traversing reminiscent of The Bard, and an exposed grand finale to bring it all home! Bring lots of long extenders to manage your drag. If not, setup a semi-hanging belay mid-traverse. Be wary mounting the hanging magic block in the first 7m ...

Up the finger crack into flared groove and off width to finish.

Line of three fixed hangers 2m right of Pet Cow. Bouldery start, then follow the somewhat hollow flakes and then straight up the nice juggy headwall, passing some good nut placements.

The third expansion bolt didn't tighten and we ended up with a Bitter Aftertaste in our mouths - just like when the Glühwein smashed in the gutter.

Committing jumpstart to jug from the centre of the platform of Plato's Cave. A solid wire can be placed from the ground to protect the dyno. Beware the drop behind! Up face, then follow cracks on left, until you reach a blank face on you right. Cut right across that and up poxy, sketchy steep face left of arete. Take small wires for protection.

Beware the huge, precariously balancing deathblock on the arete if you go off route !!!

Climb up roof crack with slab on right (crux) pull some steep sporty moves to the left above a nest of RP's then solo up grey headwall to trad anchor. Second pitch traverse bush bash with a fun move at the end. Both pitches need a bolt to make sane. 1 star climbing -1 star for lack of gear.

Follow the lip of the roof and crank up to the anchor.

Climb the arête to the right of hey cow on good gear then head straight up the arête to top out.

Retrobolted before the first ascent was even finished. A good climb with a hard start and a sustained, technical finish. Starts about 20 metres right of Legends out of Time and about 10 metres left of Alpha Wars at a discontinuous crack. Up the sustained line until it joins Alpha Wars at the first bolt. Continue as for Alpha Wars.

Pitch 1- as for Jony Bynch.

Pitch 2- Walk left on ledge past small-scooped 4m face that could be added into the climb, we walked unroped up to huge tree on top of the scoop.

Pitch 3- Right facing corner up fun slab that goes diagonally right. Set belay on top of slab.

Pitch 4- Head diagonally left on crack with awkward but decent gear at the start. Once you arrive at the top of the diagonal crack there is a nice vertical crack section for 5m. Set belay in solid rock at top of this crack, not heaps to choose from but it is there.

Pitch 5- Head right into funky super exposed territory up thin vertical crack (careful placements in here with extenders) traverse right past bomber horn into some solid cam placements. Saddle up for the last move out.

Free hanging rap off tree above exposed section.