Routes in North for selected grade

Crimpy sit start with diagonal LH and small RH. Straight up. Hard.

The extension to Intuition. Start ~2m underneath roof with good undercut edges above the freestanding boulder below. Using this boulder for feet, move through series of edges on roof to gain the sloping lip. Traverse L through crux into -and finish - as for Intuition.

Branch L off Spookeye p1. Find the key to the stopper start and be rewarded with brilliant pockets.

Break right from the 3rd bolt of MS to gain the corner. Funky crux through the roof to the engaging 3D groove above.

Straight up the white streak

Access via 35m rap from bolts above Lionsgate. Exceptionally steep and pumpy by Stuart standards.

Start as "Gone in 60 Seconds" then trend left at the FH half way up.

The thin suspect crack 1m left of Gone in Sixty Seconds straight up to join into the crux of Portrait. Take up to size 1 Camalot and 7 draws. Have a solid belayer you trust from crack to first bolt is commiting.

Starting a few metres right of Neurofriend.

The bolts just to the L of Vice Grip.

Straight up after the 2 bolts to get on the starting ledge of Rampage.

DS to OMF flowing through a variety of interesting sequences.

The "Supernova" extension! After the crux, step L and keep on pumping which makes it longer and more full-on. Brutal!

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Up R past four bolts, then a traverse out R onto super exposed overhanging wall. Devious bouldery crux then pumpy jugging up right to top out the wall.

Extension to Kneebar Nexus. Battle onward through final core intensive section. Break out onto steep juggy terrain some 50m off the deck. Power through top roof on superb holds to triumph atop Supernova Wall. Redirect through Kneebar Nexus anchor to avoid being trapped dangling out in space.

8m right of Cognition. Up to ledge, then follow pillar to the unrelenting rail. No forgiveness for the unrepentant.

The shorter version of The Kraken.

Sit start

From the jugs, throw big to the tiny slanting crimps. Crank and commit to the easier slab finish.

Stand start on slopey pockets, straight up to tough and slopey mantle, reminiscent of Castle hill. Classic!

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Up the runnel to the sidepull and slopey topout.

Start matched on obvious rail, head straight right then up.

The gently bulging face on the Middle Brother, the shortest of the three boulders. A highball on perfect granite. It starts with steep and powerful moves off a chunky, in-cut flake, followed by a series of vertical cranks on small but positive edges, which guard the crux mantle onto a slopey narrow rail at two-thirds height. Blankness and weirdness above the rail gets you to a thin seam just below the more amenable top-out. It's one of Harvey's aesthetic highball jewels.

On the other side of this boulder from "Epitome of a Man". SS off the block.

Crouched start on obvious crimp. Straight up to slopers and then press L into scoop. Desperate!

Slopey, crimpy and hard. Classic Steve sandbag.

L of “Curved Arête” SS off edge on low boulder.

Technical

Sit start the obvious steep feature. Up into a technical top. Also see El Destructo Stand Start.

Start a little further left on the little crimps and link into Against The Grain. Soft.

Start on the little cairn to reach the seam and up.

Tiny arete from a sit.

The original problem, staring a little higher on the arete. A little easier, perhaps even soft for the grade. (Starting holds shown in the guidebook).

Start straddling the tree and follow the thin, overhanging flake left to a slopey finish. Watch the block that makes the landing awkward.

As for above problem but then move R via some small slopey holds.

The low start of Walk The Line adds about 4 tough moves. Starting holds - RH crimp, low LH undercling.

The low start to The Testicle Mantle. Done with RH on edge and low LH pinch.

Mantles the LH side of the eyeball. Move up the arete till you get your LH on the good crimp, and then a hard move moving L onto the slab.

Face with undercut start 2m L of "The Incred-eye-ball mantle". Start below vague scoop with RH on tiny positive 'ear' and up on thin holds.

LHV of Imported Products. Using a high LH hold, and moving up into the top of Imported Products.

Just R of “Best in Show” Start off bad RH sidepull and high LH edge. Up to obvious cluster of small edges then move L and up.

Sit-start on obvious holds. Straight up to a tough finish.

Eliminate the block for your feet on Sydney Six.

Link “Sly Fly” left into “My Girlfriends Got a New Girlfriend”, via a tough short traverse.

Sit-start to “Sly Boy”. May be a crouched start if you can't reach the holds from the ground. Starts off the small edge and slopey sidepull located together. Up to bad holds and up slab.

Sit-start to “Mr Bastard”. A great problem that's often tried, seldom sent.

Up the middle of the face, short and hard. Previously known as the mono project that Live Lundemo came very close to.

Very tall, proud arête and a magnum opus. Sometimes there are some wasps on the right face, so be careful.

Starting 2m left of "The Good Wife". Follow the line of edges and scoops up to a crux at the top with a cruisy mantle to finish. Mega classic!

Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally left to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse.

Start as for “Monster of Rock”, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for “Monster of Rock”.

Sit-start going left to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here.

Right-hand side of wall. Up, with a terrible undercling and a small mono to start.

Start in middle of face with low edges, moving up and left to a tough finish. Face was uncovered after a large fire destroyed a tree in front of the face.

That is how much it cost Dan Radford to do the second ascent. Up from edges to slopes and mantle.

Sit-start to screamer. Classic and sustained up a steep arete. The convenient block/flake is not in as a starting hold for the right foot.

Note: The starting left side flake broke April 2024. The climb has since been repeated and remains at the same grade.

Start just to the right of “Timeout”, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and left for the flake and finish up this.

A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit-start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low right-hand sidepull. Technical and crimpy.

The high slab on the opposite side of “Fall From Grace”. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top.

Walk up the water falls from the bridge. At the 3rd rock pool is an overhanging shaded block. The central line is it.

Stand start on double gastons, move through the black and gold streak on small crimps. Gain the arete and finish as for Tall Tales.

Up on the hillside before you get to Opal etc. A cool prow but a bit dirty. Sit-start (right hand on the good crimp at head height, left hand on low sidepull) and climb the prow. Eases at the top.

Sit start on pair of jugs at base of arete. Obvious block is OUT. Move up arete using RH sloper rail and LH sidepulls, big move to good edge to top out.

Highball boulder located up the hill behind Tall Tales and Clinging to Coal etc.

Sit start side pulling good right hand edge, and left hand on vague features in the dihedral. Compress your way up through the crimp rail to gain the obvious lay back feature and follow into a highball topout.

Sit start (may need to stack a pad) under clean overhung face, compressing on wide pair of small edges. Move up compression moves to good blocky feature and finish as for Carcharodon.

Start low on crimp right of the arete and wobbly crimp just left of arete. Traverse left on small edges before mantling and finishing up the slab.

Hard right most line of holds. Use none of the holds from LS except the 2 sit start holds and topout jug. All sharp edges (and one ultra micro).

Jared Tyerman (Attempts & beta)

Start on lowest set of opposing gastons where the two seams meet. Work your way up the thin crack, following it diagonally up and right.

This climb/boulder is partly tucked away right by the main waterfall, same side as (but a little upstream of) BBBIU.

Straight up the hanging face on crimps from a stand start.

Start low on right undercling and small left crimp. Move up to the sloper and finish as for Rocket Man.

Callum Mather

Sit start under prow with pocket and jug. Move up and left, before bearing down on a sharp crimp on the face and going out to a slot. Finish up and right.

Traverse from low right along sloping rail to thin crack and arete block to gaston face crack and topout.

Callum Mather

Sit start with good edge and small side pull. Up the arete on crimps, with crux revolving around the sharp edge on the face.

Access via minor clearing at big loose rock sign near very first carpark.

Steeeeeeep... Sit start, low under the 50-60 degree overhung roof, L of the tree, in large, obvious scoop with good underclings. Climb directly out through mix of various features to gain lip, mantle and top out as for The Uncertainty Principle.

Glen Hayford

Sit start with good RH crimp and flat LH sidepull. Move left to good blocky edge and use either this or the pinch above to move out right to crimp before going to good hold below lip. Top out straight up.

Sit start under overhang with good left pinch and high right edge. Hard move to slot, then gain unique features on slab and topout into fern opening.

Start wide with RH on the start hold of Reflections and LH on a small scoopy crimp. Contort your way into and finish as for Reflections.

Start as for Well, then move left into Soft wood.

Callum Mather Jared Tyerman

Stand start matched on jug, follow line of holds up and out of the hole via big committing move. Rock behind is very dabbable, controlling the swing is a great lesson in core movement. Landing needs rebuilding after floods.