Routes as sport in North East

"Probably the best slick slab in Victoria". Originally had only 4 bolts, retrobolted by Mikl Dec 2010. Start: Start 5m R of TR at left facing flake. Up to rap station, eay climbing above this to join MoP or rap off.

A good line, good rock, good gear in a great environment. Take 10 bolt plates for the first pitch.

1. 42m (16) Start at small curving ledge, two carrots, about 8m left of the last rap bolts. Sustained enjoyable face climbing on thin rails. Follow the white streak past 8 BR crossing large flakes at 3/4 height. 5m below belay scoop traverse right along break to weakness on right.

2. 55m (15) Start at lovely belay scoop (DBB with double captive rap rings). Up prominent white streak, directly above belay. Very thin, balancy, and sustained. Would be easier if cool or in overcast conditions. DBB with link chain and single captive rap ring. (All ring bolts - no hangers required)

3. 27m (7) Straight up from belay crossing small overlap. 2 glue in ring bolts. Ends at DBB (each with captive rap ring) on easy to get to large boulder at top of cliff, roughly level with the waterfall where it briefly goes vertical.

Consistent at the grade and very enjoyable. Fully bolted, take a couple of bolt plates, the rest is rings.

Start: Best to rap in (25m first, then 55m 2nd rap then 40m 3rd rap) from the far side of the waterfall as you walk in.

1. 45m (16) Up following ring bolts. Pitches 2 and 3 to the top follow A Fundamental Difference of Opinion, 55m (15) and 27m (7)

Lovely slab climbing. Consistent. Take 5 bolt plates.

Start: Starts on a small ledge about 35m off the ground level on the 'Stiletto' slab wall, just left (say 4-5m) of the waterfall at DBB (glue in M10x100mm carrots). *This is around 8-10m right (facing in) from the start/belay rings of 'No Ego'.

From the top of Home James, keep skirting around the gorge rim (rightward, looking out) and down a little to a ledge (immediately east from a short east-facing finger-crack - Finger Fantasy). A double bolt rap chain is located toward the east edge of this ledge. This the belay at the top of Body Heat and Sweet Nothings.

Abseil in 25m to hanging double bolt belay (bolt plates required). Up past 5 FHs.

The steep blunt arete to the R of Body Heat.

Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James.

Starts a couple of metres left of 'And don't spare the horses' (apparently the numbers given to these two routes in the text in the '06 guidebook should have been reversed).

Delicate slabbing up first 3 bolts, then move left to wide crack past 2 more bolt. Up left over crack to finish on slab past another bolt to belay at the base of Home James.

Starts from near the right side of the sizeable flat ledge directly below the base of Home James. Up the slab which sweeps up tending rightward, past 3BRs to a steepening (large-medium cam possible but not essential). Up and over this, past another BR, and up leftward to the belay at the base of Home James.

Classic hard slab climbing.

To get to the belay, a fixed 70m rope will make it from a gear belay to the right of Home James, or you can stop at the belay for P2. Aim down and right to a small bushy ledge.

A few metres left of Banana Blase is a line of 4 carrot bolts. could definitely get some additional small pro in. Access as per Banana Blase.

From the extreme right-hand end of the Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blase ledge reach up to clip the first BR, then head out right to reach the arete. Up the left side of this.

2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD.

Continue downhill from Mushroom Rock for perhaps another 70m to the end of a rocky promontory (not far from where the rough climbers' track - used to get down to Isotope Wall, Angel's buttress or the North Wall of the gorge - swings hard left, looking out, and into and through a narrow rock cleft). Abseil 35m over the route, angling slightly leftward/east to belay in the steep gully off the east side of the buttress. Engaging climbing up past 2 carrot bolts and around right onto the front of the buttress and a fixed hanger. Then slab up tending rightward past four more carrot bolts, a fixed hanger, then the arete past a final carrot bolt to belay.

A fixed hanger added (2023) between the first two of the three original carrots makes this very enjoyable.

Amazing, thin face climbing up the middle of the North face of the pinnacle. 7 FH's, 1 BR. Rap down the South face.

The slabs around 90° clockwise from 'Strawberry Jam'. The left side of the left slab. Up two flakes, then diagonally left to carrot bolt. Continue up and left to stance on a couple of small dykes, then follow remaining two bolts to the top. Double carrot bolt belay. Descend down gulley between slabs.

Should be popular for those wanting good quality climbs of this grade that have straight-forward access and are reasonably protected. This route starts at a small, inverted 'tongue'of rock near the lowest point of this area of cliffline, just below some small dykes that lead up and right. Originally climbed solo, it is now protected by five fixed hangers that show the way. Climb up a few body-lengths, via the first two fixed hangers, then follow the dyke right to a blunt arete. Slab up. The angle eases off for the last 10m or so. DBB - rap/lower off or scramble down around the back.

The R arete, R of Join The Dots. Up pasts 3BR's.

Starts approximately in centre of face, a few metres R of Epic. The crack, then slab past 1BR and 1RB.

Starts L of centre of face. Slab past 3BR's and 1RB to top. poorly bolted

Clip BR before leaving ground. Straight up, clipping FH and BR on the way. Medium cams available in flake to right. Domey top-out and rap chain on right.

Radical line of flakes through an outrageous roof arete, and all this in a prime position on the front of the Cathedral. Looks all time! Batman start.

About 11 metres left of Sultan. Take a big cam to protect the moves up to the first bolt, then slab on up on the usual assortment of crimps and crystals...

3m right of Seven Veils (and 8m left of Sultan). Up.

Starts 3m right of The Quick and the Dead, and 5m left of Sultan. Straight up past 2 horizontal dykes

Quite technical. Start as for Maharajah RHV then up past 4 BRs to abseil ring.

Furthest left line of bolts across small gully from Maharajah.

Up via pocket to first BR of 'Shell Shock', then left and up past another 6 BRs to u-bolts.

Up past pocket. Go right then up, getting easier soon after first bolt (originally done with no bolts at all).

A few metres down the ramp (right) from the start of Shellshock.

P1. Clean slabbing past a mix of fixed hangers and carrots to belay on sloping ledge. P2. Step R and weave your way up an amazing piece of clean rock, the 3FH and 2 carrots are spaced, but where you need them most. DBB

great climbing up the middle of the wall, trad gear for belay

A two pitch sport route (but you'll need gear to build the anchor at the end of the first pitch).

1. (18) From right hand of ledge, step across to clip FH. A total of 5 FH and 1 carrot (plus an extra carrot adjacent to a FH).

2. (18) Up the rib past 5 BRs. Each pitch originally had only 2 BRs!

Lots of carrots and a fixed hanger added in the mix.

Superb face climbing up the rib.

great weaving slab climbing and a bold lead at the grade.

The chunky featured arete R (south) of Doctor Worm's top chains, perched above Blowhole's chimney. Climb the wall past several BRs.

Start as for Chunky. Up to Chunky's first BR then bridge up right to a BR on the right wall (the left edge of the Glossop Skins buttress). Lunge onto the face and climb the steep featured wall past 3 more BRs.

Climbs the upper part of the face left of They Might be Giants. Abseil to Doctor Worm's middle belay chains. Bridge up 3 m until a BR on the right can be clipped. Step carefully onto the face and head up and right past another BR onto the slab to gain the obvious knob. Continue up the brilliant steep featured face past another 7 BRs to the top.

Starts 2 or 3m right of 'Redbacks'. From the extreme right end of the ledge, make an exposed few moves up and right and follow the bolts up just left of the arete. Toward the top, angle up leftward to gain the 'Redbacks' belay.

Takes the line to the right of the striking arete. 3 early edition ring bolts that are starting to show their age.

Starts as for Spooky. From half way up the initial flake, step onto the slab and traverse a few moves right, past the initial FH, then up past 5 more. Shared rap anchor.

From the bottom of the blunt right arete of the same buttress that Spooky and Spunky ascend, climb up via 6 FHs to the shared rap anchor.

Climbs the north side of the highest tor ("The Fin"). Though the difficulty of the climbing is uneven - the crux is getting started, then the rest is probably about grade 15 - the climbing is nonetheless consistently enjoyable.

1. Clip the first bolt from the sloped boulder beside the base of the wall, then pull onto the wall and past a second FH. Up to and up the groove, then past 3 more FHs to a fixed belay/rappel anchor on top

Shares start then left of TBTH. Awkward start to line of carrots with some ring bolts towards the top.

Was originally very 'go-ey' with just 1 high bolt (Hence the name). Now sane with 3 FHs. Start as for Robert Dazzler but instead of angling up left, head straight up.

1. Reach across to the arete from the slopey boulder to clip the first FH. You will need either a particularly attentive belayer or a long clip stick to protect the climbing to the second FH. Straight up past the 3rd FH (crux) to the ledge and a rap/lower off.

Starts 2m right of "This is not our land". Up on good flakes past 6 glue in m10 g304 stainless bolts. Fun, good warm up for "This is not our land" but better protected.

Was originally a very bold trad route, but was inadvertently retro-bolted and renamed to 'The Day After Invasion Day' in 2012, presumably as a result of an incorrect topo in the 2006 guidebook, which showed 'Spaceman Spiff' as being several meters right of the climb's actual location.

The left side of the left dyke, wandering rightwards slightly as it goes up. Three carrot bolts. Harder if you're short.

The severely overhanging dyke on the underside of the boulder to the left of 'This Is Not Our Land' and 'Injustice'. One carrot and three fixed hangers.

Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top.

A great introduction to Buffalo slab climbing, and well protected by Buffalo standards. At half height there is the option to step right to the abseil station at the end of Crowlands (but it's generally considered best to ignore this and do the route as one long pitch).

There are options to place gear in the second half of the route, but it protects fine without anything further than 11 bolt plates and draws.

Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

Large independent block L of Yeah Boys. Great first lead for a beginner. Step up onto nose and continue up over eye and along forehead crack. Sling and cam for belay. Easy exit off back of block

The arete R of (and a tad harder than) Glitterati.

The centre of the block right of the Hoi Polloi arete (R of and down a little from the summit block and above the first pitch of Buttocks). Up past 4BRs.

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

Rap in off the belay bolts at the Horn summit lookout. Climb follows the sharp square L arete past 5BRs.

The first route on the wall, start on ledge behind cypress. Difficult moves past 2 FHs to rings.

Start 2m L of The Happy Baker. Up a mini arete to a sloping ledge, and then continue past horizontal breaks. 2FHs to rings.

The mini-arete on the boulder opposite Life In The Fat Lane. Although very short, this is a great warm-up, or beginner's lead. 2 FHs.

The first closed seam left of the small cave. Hard moves lead to hole and jugs. Lurch left to finger crack with one more hard move at the top. 4 FHs. The top of the crack may need brushing after rain.

Start as for Doughboy. At jugs continue up the line to where the seam peters out. Head out R (crux) on tiny crimps and then up. 6 FHs.

The bolted face left of Doughboy. Hard face moves lead to the finger crack which may need brushing. 3 BRs, 1 FH.

Recently re-bolted (2014). Climb the left arete of "Soot" past 3 RB's, execute the thought-provoking mantle to gain 4th RB, then surmount final steepness clipping 5th RB a couple of metres above the lip (out of sight from the ground). Head left to Double Ring lower-off.

The lowish angled bolted arete past 3 BR's, can us some large gear to protect top out. Hard to avoid the crack.

The cool-looking right-hand line on suspect-looking (but surprisingly solid) rock. Straight up past 3RB's to double ring lower-off

The left-hand line is also not too bad. Good gear down low. 1 FH to rings.

The wall with 3 FHs offers some very hard and steep cranking. Stick clip first FH. Hard moves past this lead to excellent incuts. Exit out left at twin seams, lower-off at chains.

Short but sweet. Takes the steep bulge right of Seamstress. Stick clip the first FH, pull over the bulge and meander up to the top.

Quite a nice route on excellent hard dyke-rock. Three metres right of Crack Two is a scoop with 2 FHs. Bouldery moves lead to a pocket and the second FH. Step right and finish up Thredbo.

About 4 metres to the left of 'Helmets On!' Fun crimps up to a scoop. Mantle and then head up a bit more to a more tradition slab finish. Crux in between 1st and 3rd Bolt. Double carrot belay.

2m left of Mount Pilot Unearthed is a line of bolts. Tricky first move leads to an awesome rail, head straight up with plenty of crimps on offer!

The original route on this wall. The arete on the L of the large crack splitting the wall past 3 BRs. Please be aware the final section of this route is somewhat run-out.

Great beginner route! Tricky opening sequence leads to excellent, well protected slab climbing. Starts 1m R of the wide crack splitting the wall (if standing at cliff base). Double BR top anchor.

Fantastic first lead! Well protected fun slabbing. Starts 7m right of Sticky Date Sunrise (if standing at cliff base). Tricky opening moves, then easily up the slab. Double BR top anchor.

Start about a Metre right of Lucky Charlie, climb up a thinking start to first bolt, up past some nice crimps into another tricky section before the last bolt.

A hard start leads to good face climbing, finishing easily up the slab. Start off the block 5m R of Lucky Charlie (if standing at cliff base). If needed, the start can be skipped by using the tree. Double BR top anchor near small gumtree on ledge.

Starting half a metre to a metre right of Psycho Midget Madness, through the obvious brushed section, move right after 2 metres and than up. Soon to be bolted and graded, otherwise can be top roped at about a grade 20 , off the bolts below the tree at the top of the crag.

Climb past 3 BRs on the face.

Climb the thin wall past 6 BRs.

6m left of Root Canal is a rippled face. Crank your pants off past 5 BRs.