Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Hanibal Lecter - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.5 Hard | ★ Diedre Maboul - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 17m | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Colonel Kirtz - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 10m | ||||
Wasn't feeling it today, retreated after 2nd piece.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Hanibal Lecter - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 10m | ||||
5.4 | ★ Poussinet - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 55m | ||||
Pitches can be linked and lowered with a 60 m rope
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Les autres bières La fourmilière | ||||||
5.4 ~5.5 | ★ C'est fourmidable - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Graded 5.5 in the printed guidebook
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5.5 | ★ La zizanie des fourmis - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.3 Hard | ★ Bill le Crapaud - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 12m | ||||
5.10a Hard | ★★ Pathfinder - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 25m, 8 | ||||
Crux at 2nd half (upper crack) with thin holds. Finger lock is the way.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Bière | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Deuxième bière - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 35m, 8 | ||||
5.4 | ★ Premiere biere - with xina, pam, nads, bonanza | 35m, 8 | ||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★ Crocodile | 25m, 3 | ||||
Top (past visible crack) was very dirty, lots of moss/lichen on the slab. Only anchor bolts found were very high, at the trees. 30m with rope stretch can barely be lowered on 60m.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Hippocampe | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ L'hypothenuse - with Chieko H | 14m, 8 | ||||
Super fun crack with 1 or 2 thin moves at top if traversing left to anchor station (alternate anchor station on right thru top of crack). Can be climbed as sport crack with extended draws clipped to left bolt line
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5.10b | Crack glove ★★★ L'hippocampe - with Chieko H | 20m | ||||
Crux in middle/upper 3rd right before crack splits. Combo of fist and hand crack sizes. Placed a couple extra #2 s
Consider extra piece at lower bolted belay station to protect upward pull.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Boite a Surprise | ||||||
5.9 Hard | N'importe qui! - with Anna | 17m, 5 | ||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★★ Le Pirate Maboule | 16m, 5 | ||||
Fun climb, the top 1/3 esp above last bolt has some thin moves and I feel is closer to a 10-
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5.8 Hard | ★★★ La gardienne | 17m, 7 | ||||
Fantastic climb, tricky moves on the upper third. 2 larger glue-in bolts at top for anchor (cannot be seen from ground)
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Les autres bières La fourmilière | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Le fourmi-lion fait le ménage | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Atomas: la fourmi atomique | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.3 | C'est fourmi-fourmidable | 14m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Parmis les fourmis | 14m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ La cigale et la fourmi | 16m, 5 | ||||
Fri 22nd Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.5 Hard | ★ Diedre Maboul - with phong | 17m | ||||
Not quite a crack climb, not quite a face climb
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5.4 | ★ Poussinet - with phong | 55m | ||||
Can follow crack leftward past 1st anchors to 2nd set of anchors at top (near steel cable). Can link both pitches and lower with single 60m rope
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Fri 22nd Sep 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan - with bianca | 20m, 6 | ||||
2 bolts on left side for anchor, or follow.left crack further up (mixed) to upper anchor
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.5 | ★★★ Vertiginous - with xina | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 | ★★★ Knob Hill - with ahmad | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 1st Sep 2023 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.4 | ★★★ Front of the Pinnacle - with phong, xina | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.0 | ★★★ Birthday Ridge - with phong, xina | 90m | ||||
Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Knob Hill - with anthony, Arbin Gurung | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.5 | ★★★ Fanny Hill - with anthony, Arbin Gurung | 98m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.5 | ★★★ Vertiginous - with anna, john2 | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.4 | ★★★ Front of the Pinnacle - with Eric Armstrong | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 | ★★ Very Thin Nicholas — 2 attempts - with Eric Armstrong | 60m | ||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.4 | ★★★ Front of the Pinnacle - with anna | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.6 Hard |
★★ Magical Mystery Tour
- with
Arbin Gurung, pymmer
1
lead by
Arbin Gurung
2
| 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Def magical mystery! First pitch (and belay) is Trad, 2nd pitch is now sport, plus maybe 1 piece of pro. Went too high on 2nd pitch and had to downclimb to the correct line.
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5.7 | ★★★ Peggy - with Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best Trad route on the wall
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5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete - with Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.3 Hard | ★ Back to the Wall - with Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.3 ~5.4 | ★ Main Corner - with Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★ One Up - with Arbin Gurung, pymmer | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10- | ★★ Dogma - with ahmad | 13m, 5 | ||||
Wandered so far left on the juggy roof that it was a chore to get back and clip those bolts! Super fun
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5.10a | ★★ Hakuna-Matata - with ahmad | 15m, 5 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Boulder Dash - with ahmad | 15m, 5 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Desert Trip - with ahmad | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger - with ahmad | 16m, 6 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Nocturnal Tendencies - with ahmad | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Love this route. Getting the right sequence up top is the difference between moves that work, and moves that just pump you out 💪
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5.6 | ★ Fogged Up - with ahmad | 16m, 5 | ||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - with Chieko H | 23m, 8 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - with Chieko H | 30m, 10 | ||||
Top-roped this one for exfil with the backpack + kitchen sink
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun as always! Some key crimp holds that aren't as visible from below
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5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Peggy - with phil, ahmad | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete - with phil, ahmad | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.3 Hard | ★ Back to the Wall - with phil, ahmad | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
PN, Chieko H
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - with PN, Chieko H | 210m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Mont Ste-Marie | ||||||
Rock Area | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Parnoosh Party | 12m | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Parnoosh Pizzaz | 12m, 1 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Parnoosh Paradox | 12m, 1 | ||||
5.10- G | ★★★ Truth Seeker | 23m | ||||
Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Peggy | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ One Up | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 X ~5.10a | ★ Little Yellow Fucker — 3 attempts | 10m | ||||
I'd say 5.10- because the first few moves are quite strenuous, crimpy, balancy and feel a little higher
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Piton Highway - with Arb | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete - with Arb | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.3 Hard | ★ Back to the Wall - with Arb | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.3 ~5.4 | ★ Main Corner - with Arb | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★ One Up - with Arb | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Block - with Arb | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.1 | K5 | |||||
5.7 | ★ One Up | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Block | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5.3 | ★ Broken Corner | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Very Thin Nicholas - with Arbin Gurung | 60m | ||||
5.4 |
★★★ Front of the Pinnacle
- with
Arbin Gurung
1
2
3
| 100m | ||||
5.5 | ★★★ Boris' Route - with Arbin Gurung | 70m | ||||
Fri 30th Sep 2022 - Bon Echo | ||||||
5.7 |
★★★ Knob Hill
- with
Arbin Gurung
1
2
3
| 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.4 G | ★★ Afternoon Delight - with Arbin Gurung | 40m | ||||
Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Need 3-4 pieces of larger pro (#2-#3 Camalot)
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hidden half crimps on the pink crux
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5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | ||||
Climbed out with pack as a single pitch. Way too much rope drag to do that again. WATERMELON-SIZED ROCKS LOOSE halfway up first pitch, on right face. They're sitting in shallow dirt and will come out on the next pull
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ C'est beau, man! | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Chasseur de primes | 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crack start
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5.10c | ★★ Le côté obscur de la force | 27m, 11 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Révélation | 6 | ||||
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Surprise sur prises | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.5 | ★ SAXE o’fun | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.6 | Les séparatistes | 17m | ||||
5.7 | Sèche tes pleurs | 17m | ||||
5.6 | ★ Je s’appellais Grout | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Début d’un temps nouveau | 17m, 7 | ||||
Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Révélation | 6 | ||||
There are no more bolts beyond the 6 you see from the ground. Bring a piece or two of pro for the remaining runout crack.
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5.10b | ★★ C'est beau, man! | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Attempted via right face. Ran out of good feet after clipping 4th bolt.
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Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Surprise sur prises | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.5 | ★ SAXE o’fun | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.7 | Sèche tes pleurs | 17m |