Routes in Eardley Escarpment for selected grade

Climb up the right side of the featured right arete of the face, pulling around and overhang at mid-height and exiting up a depression with loose blocks.

The obivous chimney/crack on the side of the buttress facing the Ottawa river.

Up the obvious cracked depression.

Climb the right side of the same face as Water Fact, finishing up a small right-facing corner.

The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3.

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

An unprotected face climb. The first ascent of the route was actually a street-shoe warm-up session that went a bit further than first intended.

An obvious huge roof can be seen above this climb. The route follows a diagonal line of bolts up to a ledge and small tree. Notice "Pascal hole" on the way up.

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

Climb the wide crack to bolt anchors on the right.

Start up Corruption, but a couple meters off the ground, climb a thin crack rightwards through an overhang and up to trees.

Belay and rappel from the cedar tree.

Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff.

Start one terrace down from Back to the Wall.

Climb up the dihedrals to a couple ledges, then finish up the arete above.

This is one of the better protected climbs on this section of the cliff.

This has been climbed as a top-rope variation from the "Back to the Wall", but has recently had its own anchor installed and a bit of cleanup done on the route itself.

Starts on the ramp just right of "Peggy" -- the lower of the two parallel ramps.

1. (5.6) Climb up the ramp immediately right of "Peggy", then traverse back left to belay on top of the square block of Peggy.

2. (5.6) Climb 3m up the corner, then step right onto the arete. Traverse right at more or less constant height all the way to "Piton Highway", up which the route finishes.

Original PG/R, but now can borrow bolts from several climbs that it crosses in what was, formerly, the badly run-out section, meaning it now is quite well protected.

Also, it can be climbed in a single pitch rope lengthwise, but two pitches is advisable for rope-drag issues.

Start the same as "Piton Highway". Gain the arete and climb bypassing the corner. Finish as for "Piton Highway".

Follow "Piton Highway" to the first hard moves at the foot of the corner. Traverse 1m right on huge holds. Go straight up, keeping slightly right of Piton Highway/Arete until the final wall. Finish as per "Piton Highway".

Or, for a longer variation, start above the leaning boulder at the belay and climb directly up from there to the face right of the arete, and continue staying completely right of the line of Piton Highway/Arete until the finishing moves at the anchor.

The main feature of the left-hand side of the cliff is an arc-shaped overhang. Scramble up to belay directly below the center of the overhang. Traverse right and follow the obvious crack up and leftwards to the center of the overhang. Pull round the overhang at a thin crack to easy ground.

Start 20m left of the corner of One Pine, at a corner with a big ledge 3m off the ground, and with a smooth overhanging right wall.

Pitch 1 (5.6) Go up from the big ledge for a few feet, then go diagonally left to a clump of birch trees. (The trees can be reached by a scramble from the left.)

Pitch 2 (5.1) Climb up the broken corner behind the trees for 4m. Go right for 2m. (One can go straight up from here to intersect the last pitch of One Pine.) Go back left and up to a pine tree. Continue 4m past the tree to a short rightwards slanting ramp which is followed to another pine tree. Belay.

Pitch 3 (5.0) Easy slabby rock terraces.

Start at a large arched corner with a smooth right face, about 20m left of One Pine.

Climb this corner, then up towards some broken rock, over the broken rock then trending slightly leftwards continue upwards to the anchors for One Pine.

A few meters right of of the main corner (which "Epinephrine" ascends) is another corner, with a cave at its base.

Climb up to this corner, ascend the corner (past one old piton) exiting leftwards, then up to the same last bit and to the same anchors as "Epinephrine".

Thrash your way up to the base of a distinctive dihedral. Climb the corner enjoyably to the top.

Follow the crystal seam, or not.

Start on hold at waist level on right side of boulder. Traverse left on the seam without using lip until the end

Zigzag up the face, trending rightwards, to get underneath the large sloping overhang. Continue up past the overhang to easier ground.

Follow the obvious crack.

Start far left and traverse right, turn the corner and go up before it gets too mossy. Really fun with jugs and good feet everywhere. It is located east of the honte boulder and a little up the hill (before proj 16-17). Perfect boulder to warm up. You can create many other lines on this boulder.