Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 26th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Whale Watching | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Moby Dick — 4 attempts | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This was a real pleasure to send, Just flowed. Hung the draws & sent 3rd attempt.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
The Next Best Thing | |||||||
12 | ★★ No More 'Brownes Cows' | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Setting up TR for 31 weeks pregnant partner.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Whale Watching | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Moby Dick - with Ryan Yong | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not my best attempt, messed up my beta after the middle of the route.
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24 | ★★ Flensing the Stone - with Ryan Yong | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprised myself sending this as my warm up route, done it before but normally need a couple routes in me to get the fingers working
|
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24 | ★ Whale Rider - with Ryan Yong | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed it but I definitely went off route in the middle was more of a mix of the 2 routes. Will need to come back and try it properly
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | |||||||
Map 2 | |||||||
V1 | ★★ No.50 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Scary top slab
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V7 | ★★ Doctors Smoke More Camels — 4 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
First v7! Stoked. Minging crimps and poor feet to crimpy small monos
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
12 ~14 | Totter | 11m, 4 | Average | ||||
Decent
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19 ~18 | ★ Binders Butter Beans | 12m, 7 | Average | ||||
Alright. Stick right to start
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16 ~17 | ★★ Medicinal champagne | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Varied moves with face climbing on slab to finish
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18 | ★★ Wharton’s Warple | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb with varied moves
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21 ~20 | ★★ London Lassitude | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Jugs over the lip then straight forward face climbing
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Bradley | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★ Jubilee - with Romain | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After Sam's lead. Cool flare down low. Wet and dirty in the upper crack
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22 | ★★★ White Wizard - with Romain | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Back with more small cams. Recommend doubles from 0.1-1, single 2 & 3, and wires
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Bradley | |||||||
Right Cliff | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★ Lamentations - with Romain | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite a good rock climb!
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Dochawiyogicojalime — 2 attempts | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
working moves, wrist needs more healing for the top
|
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kiera Montgomery, Fergus Roache | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found it pretty spooky, keen to go back for the redpoint!
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes — 3 attempts - with Kiera Montgomery, Fergus Roache | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Found the feet hard to trust, great learnings!
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Tulsa Time | 20m, 7 | |||||
Very fun. Messed up the sequence just before the anchors
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18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - with David Brancalion, Xena Telequido, Stephen Leong | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb, great holds
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18 | ★ Roadweary - with David Brancalion, Xena Telequido, Stephen Leong | 20m, 9 | |||||
Lots of lichen on the slab. Took my time to find feet
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Hangover | |||||||
18 | ★ Sloppy Drunk | 20m, 9 | Average | ||||
Okay apart from the start. Linked into Fur Breath.
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22 | ★★ Fur Breath | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
From the ground as a long pitch
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Warm Leatharête | |||||||
27 | ★★ Sumo | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Bouldery fun
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
Cabbage Tree Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ You Beauty — 2 attempts | 15m, 7 | |||||
Excellent sustained climb with assorted type of holds. Still need to figure out how to clip the 4th bolt.
|
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23 | ★★ Cabbage Patch Kids — 2 attempts | 8m, 3 | |||||
Good climb, steep on great holds. Doesn’t feel like a 23 though. Almost got it on the second attempt. Need to trust more on the hold on the left.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Warm Leatharête | |||||||
27 | ★★ Sumo — 2 attempts | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Came very close to sending second go, but fell after the main crux. One hang. Would be keen to come back for it.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Hangover | |||||||
22 | ★★ Fur Breath | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pleasant, exposed, and somewhat pumpy.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Edition | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell off the start first go, lowered and went to the top. Chossy down low, but fun through the overhang.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | |||||||
Map 3 | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ French Kiss | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got to the mono
|
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | |||||||
Map 2 | |||||||
V5 | ★★ NO.31 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Cool
|
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V7 | ★★ Doctors Smoke More Camels | ★★ Very Good | |||||
So close just 1 move I couldnt do
|
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VB | ★★ NO.13 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Enjoyable
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | |||||||
Map 1 | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Ninja — 3 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Same but sort of hard ish climbing then hard top out
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V5 ~V4 | ★★ Extension | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Easy climbing hard top out. Weird
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock | |||||||
Barbican Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Jeni's Gang Direct Finish — 4 attempts | 13m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Done as a sport route with pre-place gear
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Aidan Sarginson, Alexei Drummond, James Wuu | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome technical climbing. Alexei's redpoint was just the push I needed today. 2nd bolt preclipped.
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26 | ★ Theropod - with James Wuu, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Got surprisingly far accounted to all the on lookers. Super cryptic climb that would require some goes just to figure out the body positions
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27 | ★★ Batman - with James Wuu, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked the top move to understand the tension required. Just need to be sure of the lower crux and it's ready for send goes.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, James Wuu | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Red point! Not in the best style as the second bolt was pre-clipped, but very satisfying nonetheless. Awesome route. I definitely need to come back and do it with only first pre-clipped as I ended up resting at the second bolt clipping position anyway So fun doing this with Tom on the same day.
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23 | ★★ Robin - with James Wuu, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up/hanging draws on Batman
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, James Wuu | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second attempt of the day. Second bolt pre-clipped. One hang at 4th bolt. Fingers numbed out setting up for the move to the ledge.
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23 ~22 | ★★ Breaking Point - with James Wuu, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 15m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Felt like a whanganui bay climb so points for that. Fun times. 22/23
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Aidan Sarginson, James Wuu | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First attempt of the day. Just had first bolt preclipped but wasn’t recruited and the holds needed brushing.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★ Roadweary - with Moo, HyeonJoo | 20m, 9 | |||||
gotta log your dogs
|
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spurt | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
dropknee
|
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Get Kerfuffled | 20m, 8 | Crap | ||||
Beware. A lot of the hangers on this route are homemade and some are super bent. Homemade junk is not rated. Super sketchy.
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
16 | ★ Clean Me - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
|
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17 | ★ Eyore's Crack - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
|
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18 | ★★ Jock the Frotterer - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat, great route
|
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Redcliffe | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★★ Verdid | ★★★ Classic | |||||
This felt extremely hard - although it improved a lot with cleaning. The climbing has really interesting moves in it. Need to go back to get the lead done!
|
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
The Next Best Thing | |||||||
22 ~21 | ★★ Badgers Will Rule The World | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
|
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19 | ★ Toe the Line | 20m, 8 | |||||
Repeat
|
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Quantum Field Map 22 Rubic and Placebo | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Vlad the Impaler | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good boulder with fun top out.
|
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Quantum Field Map 21 Central Lake North | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Smiley Face | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lovely boulder, fun with a no hands start.
|
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Quantum Field Quantum Map2 area | |||||||
V2 | ★★ No.4 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really fun with nice positive holds
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Right Corner Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct - with David Jefferson | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a second tie-in with second pre-clipped to make trying the boulder a bit more pleasant. Definitely made some progress, but eventually just pulled up to jug and climbed to top to clean since wanted to get David on Dodor before it got too late.
|
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25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct - with David Jefferson | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked out some beta on the bottom boulder. Seems harder than 25, but maybe this is a V5 with good beta.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Carpe Diem - with David Jefferson | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sandbagged myself choosing this for a warm up Just pulled through when I couldn't remember how to do the reachy move since we only had a couple of hours before dark.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - The Airstrip | |||||||
Valley Wall | |||||||
V5 Hard | ★★ Download | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Dyno beta
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Carpe Diem - with Alexei Drummond | 11m, 3 | Average | ||||
Pretty cruxy for a warm up.
|
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25 | ★ Dodor - with Alexei Drummond | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Took a few goes to make the feet work, but got there in the end. Actually rather fun in a manufactured rock kind of way.
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Right Corner Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct - with Alexei Drummond | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Very cryptic boulder problem that I came relatively close to solving, but alas, time was short. Reminiscent of Steaming Wally at Kangaroo Point, the other dingy urban quarry crag I’m familiar with.
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Observatory | |||||||
22 | ★ Optical Confusion - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Should have onsighted but spent too long faffing looking for holds at the top and got pumped. Very fun traverse
|
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24 | ★★ A Game of Three Halves - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very fun climb, although top section is like climbing on wheat-a-bix
|
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
19 |
★★ Jugzilla
- with
julia stegvik
1
30
lead by
julia stegvik
| 42m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
flowy climb. Cool view of the lake at the 2nd pitch after a juggy and long first pitch.
|
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19 |
★★★ Captain Caveman
- with
julia stegvik
2
12
lead by
julia stegvik
Cool pitch through a cave | 60m, 24 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool varied climbing, beautiful view over the lake.
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lots of good jamming - foot jams, hand jams, leg jams arm jams. You also don’t have to climb it like a crack, lots of jugs on the side of the crack
|
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete | 28m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
got stuck on the triangle hold part
|
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Waterfall Crag | |||||||
V8 | ★★ Mr Miyagi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Possibly a touch easy with my beta, but it still took me 3 sessions so 🤷♂️. First go of the day, really fun moves.
|
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Jungle Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Bagheera - with Moo, kbay crew | 7m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sport climbing goal of 2024: completed.
|
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18 | ★★ Baloo - with Moo, kbay crew | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
A minor obstacle required to access Bagheera
|
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - with Moo, kbay crew | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time wearing crack gloves and cleaning trad gear. That double stack jam was so bomberrrrr.
|
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Captain Caveman - with Moo, kbay crew | 60m, 24 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First pitch can be considered a hard hike, second pitch is the money pitch - huge 3D chimney abundant with features. Final pitch is short and punchy with a nice steep finish on bucket jugs with the entire bay underneath your feet. Two 70m ropes allowed us to rap down in a single descent, a fantastic finish for this multi!
|
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17 |
★★ Jugzilla P1
- with
Moo, kbay crew
1
17
30m
| 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Night climb! Just did the first pitch as it was already past our bedtime
|
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22 | ★★ Predator — 2 attempts - with Moo, kbay crew | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Big burly throws on a steep freestanding monolith. First attempt to get the beta and find the hidden holds, went second go.
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
22 Easy | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Toby Jackson, Daniel Smith | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a climb! Great moves. Thank you for encouraging me to try Daniel Smith
I couldn't get it first try and my foot popped! Move felt easy second try. Would love to come back. |
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk - with Toby Jackson, Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
What a lovely day out climbing and trying hard with friends. I thought none of us would get it after struggling on our second day, but on Sunday morning we all managed to secure tickets for the send choo choo
I found that I could span to skip all of the tricky crimps, so maybe this is a little easier if you have a 190+ span |
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Fossil Free Zone - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sudo grovelling in the corner down low to thuggy moves to the mantle. I'll take a climb 28 climbers struggle on. Waipapa 23 so could be 24 elsewhere
|
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23 Hard | ★★ Fossil Free Zone - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Grovelled up and worked out the beta. Also ripped a flake off the main wall. Still climbs the same
|
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23 | ★★ Robin - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up/to film Braden
|
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Braden Van Leer, Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One go to test how I felt/remember beta. Need to come back to this when I'm not jetlagged.
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk — 4 attempts - with Fergus Roache, Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb, if a bit squished between routes. Sending it as a team was wonderful time!
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.
|
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Tom Buckett, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.
|
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27 | ★★ Batman — 3 attempts - with Aidan Sarginson, Tom Buckett, Alexei Drummond | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really surprised myself with this one. Was luckily to get all the beta upfront and was ble to pull all the moves quickly. had some beta to work out second session at the start but managed last go best go. After taking some pretty big and rough falls yesterday at the first bolt so I decided to climb with the second draw pre clipped. Keen to come back and send with clipping the second
|
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Alexei Drummond, Braden Van Leer, Aidan Sarginson | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Overall good session with everyone making substantial progress. Gratz Braden on your first 27, at Waipapa no less 👍
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Project Gully | |||||||
V10 | ★★★ Architexture | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quality
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Redcliffe | |||||||
20 | Dinsdale | Average | |||||
Beware! A lot of the holds have extremely sharp edges...
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
14 | ★★ Groove Tube - with Stephen Leong | 8m, 3 | |||||
Fun chimney!
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Raglan | |||||||
Sky Castle | |||||||
18 | ★ House of Dragon - with cinthy lorena jimenez silva | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Start was funky if not using the arete. makes it a bit harder but fun variation.
|
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16 | ★★ Saturn 5 - with cinthy lorena jimenez silva | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really liked the bridging through the chimney. Bit harder than 16 if done this way
|
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21 | ★★ Casual Healing - with cinthy lorena jimenez silva | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very cool movement. Few rock breaks while climbing so be careful
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk — 4 attempts - with Fergus Roache, Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt sick and couldn't work out the mini-crux, eventually sorted out the beta!Found the top section scary and committing.
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Point | |||||||
18 | ★★ Road Tripping | 48m, 14 | |||||
Super fun climbing with some friction in the morning
|
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19 | ★★ Sidewinder | 61m, 17 | |||||
Thought i had tried this before, but i was on an entirely different route ahah, good fun hangdogging and not trying too hard
I can now see why its a classic though
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - with Rickles | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Rickles | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Maratoto | |||||||
No Fly Zone | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Le Stix — 2 attempts - with Iker Sustatxa | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing climb! Thanks Iker for cleaning all the moss and lichen and giving me the beta
|
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22 | ★★ Atreyu | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First attempt after injuring my foot on this climb 1.5 years ago
|