Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Weak as piss on this one today.
|
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up.
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29 | ★★ Slurry | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Went up to have a play and figured a few things out. Could be a contender for a winter project.
|
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Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Wuthering Heights Trig Station | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Not Swiss | 6m | |||||
Two days was not enough time to learn the castle hill sloper mantle wizardry.
|
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V5 | Supergroove | ||||||
Funk runnel climbing, softy.
|
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Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Spittle Hill Map 11 Cyclops Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Connect Four SS | 3m | |||||
Pocketssss
|
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V3 | ★★★ The Fickle Finger of Fate | 4m | |||||
👉
|
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Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Conservatory | |||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Sweet Sixteen | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
repeat
|
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Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Point | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mexican Americans
1
20
45m
2
16
20m
3
21
20m
4
23
25m
5
14
5m
| 120m, 38 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
didn't really enjoy the first pitch, but the last two were really nice
|
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Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Captain Caveman | 60m, 24 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
simul climbed up it in 10 minutes and 11 seconds
|
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Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Way Of The Dragon — 2 attempts | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
so close, just dropped the last move to the jug on the redpoint, ill be back
|
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Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lizard King | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
crazy moves on tiny holds
|
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Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Odyssey Wall | |||||||
22 |
★★★ The Odyssey
- with
Barney Gould
1
17
30m
2
18
30m
3
22
20m
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
p1 was a bit hard and scary, but the rest of it was absolutelty incredible
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Spittle Hill Map 8 Opium and Ingenuity | |||||||
V3 | ★★ 45 | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cut loose and compression. Good bloc
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Quantum Field Map 8 Horseshoe Front | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Lung Dyno | 4m | |||||
Anti style to the max. Would be nice to try with more than a single pad.
|
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V3 | ★★★ Beautiful Layback | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The name doesn't lie.
|
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V0 | ★★ 13 | ||||||
Fun slab
|
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V4 | ★ 12 | ||||||
Tricky start.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Quantum Field Map 21 Central Lake North | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Smiley Face | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun rock over move.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Dreams Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★ Insomniatic - with Kiera Montgomery, Daniel Smith, Stephen Leong | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Made some moves up to 2nd bold, but I do not comprehend how to get to the good left hand above bolt 2 - something to come back to!
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Welcome Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Ventura Highway - with Kiera Montgomery | 85m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun, and nice to do it quickly. A brief moment of insanity had me come off my ATC before clipping in to safety when abseiling, hopefully not something I'll repeat again. Kiera had a nice strong WTF reaction which subsequently lead me to safety.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Spittle Hill Map 17 Snatch & Vaseline | |||||||
V1 | ★★ 19 | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool balancey start.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Spittle Hill Map 5 Philtrum and Episto | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Turn To Stone | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun climb with cool palm down move.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Arthur's Pass | |||||||
Mt Temple Temple Buttresses | |||||||
14 | ★★ Central Buttress - with Jack Davies | 190m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took a slightly harder line, maybe around 15/16 - 6 60m rope stretchers to the top!
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Secret Garden | |||||||
24 | ★★ Everything's Zen - with James Wuu | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ambiguous line. Might have gone off route. 2nd preclipped as per guidebook's recommendation.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Lollapalooza | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super pumped up the face but wrangled enough of a rest to squeak up the roof.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Altar of Madness - with James Wuu | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun trying all the moves.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
Bathroom Vanity Area | |||||||
16 Hard | ★ Noises That Old People Make | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
honestly still tough even tho it was warmer
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
Angel Face | |||||||
19 | ★ Adios Ingo | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
double vaccination got me feeling boosted #vaxpropaganda
|
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18 Easy | ★ Chocoholic | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
sooo fun!!!
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
27 | ★★ Gagarin — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Managed all the moves today, first move of crux feels harder than last time I tried it. Think a bit of the left hand hold has come away. Still pleased with the progress. Need good skin for it as the holds are so sharp!!
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
The Alcove | |||||||
25 | ★★ Mt Pleasant Butcher | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not really my style but a lot of fun nonetheless
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Castledowns | |||||||
Politics Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Slip-Slop-Splat | 9m, 3 | Average | ||||
Horrendously slopey haha
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Castledowns | |||||||
The Picnic Spot | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gumboot Revival | 19m | ★ Good | ||||
Bouldery crux
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Castledowns | |||||||
The Hauler Area | |||||||
21 | ★★ I Got The Whiskey Baby | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Figured out the crux sequence after a head over heels whip. Got it second go
|
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16 | ★★ The Hauler | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Slopey
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Castledowns | |||||||
Classic Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ The Castledowns Classic | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun. A good intro to the style of climbing at the crag
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Castledowns | |||||||
Bunny Gully | |||||||
16 | ★★ Never Say Nevis Again | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun delicate slab then steeper headwall. Awesome for the grade
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★ The System - with Tom | 10m, 5 | |||||
Beer climbing today, hehe
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face — 2 attempts - with Elspeth Napier | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fell on the last move of the climb on the first proper go I have had
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Brontosaurus Theory — 2 attempts - with Elspeth Napier | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Not a great warm up when it's raining... couldn't feel the pockets I was in because of cold hands and fell off the start. Needs a good clean at the top, super mossy
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Albert Terrace | |||||||
17 | ★ Chinese Ladder | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
|
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18 | ★ Kopu's Edge | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Waterfall Crag | |||||||
V8 Easy | ★★ Mr Miyagi | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Feels doable with the heel toe cam
|
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V7 | ★ Left Wall Traverse Direct (Right to Left) | ★ Good | |||||
Felt soft but idk if I went off route
|
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V6 | ★ Left Wall Low Traverse (Right to Left) — 2 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Cool start sequence
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
28 | ★ Intifada — 3 attempts | 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Played around with several different ways of doing the crux, but all feel equally hard for me. Couldn’t actually connect the move today. Would love a beta lifeline for this one!
|
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21 | Spanish Johnny | Average | |||||
Would rate this route as “don’t bother” if it weren’t for the upper headwall section, which is almost decent.
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | |||||||
Upper Tier | |||||||
15 | In Sha La - with Jake Clayton | 12m | Average | ||||
First trad lead yoooooooo
|
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | |||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | |||||||
22 ~21 | ★★ Hot Lava - with leo sbai | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty fun start, also diiiiirty up top
|
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20 ~19 | ★★ Strong Men for Jesus - with leo sbai | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Bit dirty
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Tukino | |||||||
Waterfall Area | |||||||
17 M3 | ★ No name - with Jacob Kuchler, Jono Clarke | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
A fun way to end the trip. Second half felt harder due to the slopers, which make finding hooks a challenged. Mixed climbed it
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Tukino | |||||||
Margarets Leap | |||||||
M3 | ★ Woke Sushi - with Jacob Kuchler, Jono Clarke | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
Might have got the first ascent of this? Would need to double check. Was a bit spooky without much gear
|
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M5 |
★★ Mixed Metaphor
- with
Jacob Kuchler, Jono Clarke
1
M5
2
| 30m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led after remembering moves. Need to go back and try the full line
|
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M5 |
★★ Mixed Metaphor
- with
Jacob Kuchler, Jono Clarke
1
M5
2
| 30m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just the first pitch. Top rope to remember the moves
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★ Thunder God P2
- with
Kiera Montgomery
2
14
| 52m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Accessed via rapping from Jugzilla, I have no regrets and it was fun! If a bit dirty. Plenty of foliage thriving in the crack.
|
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19 | ★★ Jugzilla - with Kiera Montgomery | 42m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The start was dusty and I hated it, the rest of it was great, offering wonderful access to the second pitch of Thundergod as well.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lizard King — 3 attempts - with Kiera Montgomery, Daniel Smith, Stephen Leong | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went down quite quickly, nice how quickly the insecure moves at the crux felt more and more solid.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Point | |||||||
20 |
★★★ After the Sunset
- with
Kiera Montgomery
1
18
30m
2
15
20m
3
16
20m
4
18
20m
5
20
25m
6
14
5m
| 120m, 42 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice, I am glad we did it before the sun had set.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Secret Garden | |||||||
23 |
★★ Rise Of The Sloths P1
— 3 attempts
1
23
12
| 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easier to climb at night. Can't be scared of footholds you can't see.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Buck Rock | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
16 Hard | ★ Age Concern - with Jarod | 20m, 9 | Average | ||||
some holds felt a bit smol for 16? idk been months since i've sport climbed...
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - McLaren Falls | |||||||
The Midway Stone | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ The Final Bunny - with Kerry Crawford | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Really fun boulder. Quite tough. Happy to get it.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Flock Hill Main Field | |||||||
V1 | ★★ The Rad Slab | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did it without touching the aretes at all this time. Fun!
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
24 Hard | ★★ All That Remains | 21m, 6 | |||||
Finally figure out all the move.
|
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19 Hard | ★ Hap Hazard | 19m, 6 | |||||
Repeat
|
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25 ~24 | ★ Power Curve | 18m, 5 | |||||
21most of the route + one 24 move
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Mount Pleasant | |||||||
Left Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★ In The Night - with Richard Flinn | 15m | |||||
Very hard, very bold.
|
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18 | ★ Little Feat - with Richard Flinn | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Haven’t fought this hard on an 18 in years. I’ve climbed easier 21s.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Mount Pleasant | |||||||
Right Cliff | |||||||
23 ~23 | ★ Slip Knot — 5 attempts | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Feels about V3/V4 so maybe 23/24?
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||||
23 | ★★ Opel - with Ryan Yang | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Red point, second tie-in. Such a nice bit of bouldering on a rope! Glad we checked it out. #2ndGo
|
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23 | ★★ Opel - with Ryan Yang | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flash attempt. Thought I had gotten through the first crux but let my guard down standing up after having done the hard moves and fell. I tried the start again but then hung at the second bolt. Then worked out the moves to the top.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ The Wrath of God - with Ryan Yang | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not the best idea trying to flash this for the warm-up. Fell in the crux around 4th bolt. Then pulled on and went to the top.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
26 | ★★ Life in the Fat Lane — 3 attempts | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thought I had it 3rd try, but didn't hit the arete right, hopefully next session it will go
|
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17 | ★ Bella Linguini | 19m, 4 | |||||
Repeat
|
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20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
|
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23 | ★★ Mean Streak | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool down route - unsend, first time falling at the crux after doing it twice before on different occasions 🤣
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Jack Be Nimble | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Have done before. I like the style of the bottom section.
|
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27 ~26 | ★★ Moana Magic | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Both cruxes are fun. Easier than Lollapalooza for me, seems most people find Lola easier than me though. Hard to believe there is a two grade difference. EwBMI is 675.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Avian Wall | |||||||
17 Hard | Seacliff | 25m, 9 | Average | ||||
Bit of an uneven climb. Some loose rock near the left hand side of the higher bolts before the right hand turn
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
15 ~17 | The Leveller | 10m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
Area by the anchor is pretty dirty. I'd probably just finish on kiloton anchors next time. Difficulty felt in line with that cluster of left-hand climbs
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
The Alcove | |||||||
25 | ★★ Mt Pleasant Butcher — 2 attempts | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tried it but some of the moves were a bit big
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
The Roofs | |||||||
23 | ★★ WYSIWYG | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didnt see the hold out right on the crux. Would've done it if I had a second go but had to leave
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Level Three | 11m, 5 | |||||
Made it unintentionally more exciting by going left.
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Another one hang, just not quite matching the crux hold. Remarkably still dry!
|
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up.
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Tukino | |||||||
Tascmaster Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Pleasant Thrutching - with Wayne | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Second after Jake. Mixed climbed it at M3 ish
|
|||||||
M4 Hard | ★ . - with Wayne | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Good first route of the season, but at the cost of a stuck cam
|
|||||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
Cracks Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - with Kiera Montgomery, Daniel Smith, Stephen Leong | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good fun! My ability to judge what can stem and what can't is truly non-existent.
|
|||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Kiera Montgomery, Daniel Smith, Stephen Leong | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Scary stuff, very happy to yard on the fingerlocks when they came up.
|
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20 | ★★ Great Scott | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
I have soap for feet
|
|||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
With tree aid
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Wairere Boulders | |||||||
The Forest Capercaillie Boulder | |||||||
V2 Easy | ★ Foxgloves — 4 attempts | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
6'2 reachy
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Wairere Boulders | |||||||
The Forest Strawberry Girl Boulder | |||||||
V1 ~V0+ | ★ Strawberry Girl | Average | |||||
barefoot
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Be Happy | 15m, 4 | |||||
Traversed to Automatic Dour anchor at the end to clean it
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Brasenose and Kaik | |||||||
Kaik Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Class Action — 2 attempts - with Richard Flinn | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun with varied and interesting climbing. Unfortunately it's let down a little by the loose blocks and associated gear placements between 8th and 9th bolts.
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | |||||||
V2 | ★★ 20. Luna Leper | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Barefoot repeat for fun.
|
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V2 | ★★ 20. Luna Leper | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun boulder.
|
|||||||
23 | ★ Lunatic | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hung at first bolt. Then to top. Quite hard boulder problem for a 23.
|
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23 | ★ Lunatic | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flash attempt. First three moves are fine. Then there are a couple of really hard moves. From first bolt it’s a walk.
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ Direct Action | 15m, 4 | |||||
This is one to come back to, surprised to unlock the first sequence.
|