Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Fantasy Factory | |||||||
17 | ★ Naming Rites | 28m | |||||
Great Route!
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18 | ★★ Short Cut to Mushrooms | 30m | |||||
Lead it on sight clean after pulling off a large hold which I was able hold for just enough time for my partner to get out of the way. Close call! I then down climbed and went back up and lead it. Felt a little harder than 18.
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Waipu Caves | |||||||
Cave Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ Unknown Sport Route #2 - with Caitlin, Ruthie | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Again, should've been left as trad.
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14 ~13 | Unknown Sport Route #3 - with Caitlin, Ruthie | 8m, 1 | Don't Bother | ||||
Sad that this was bolted, should just be a highball boulder or a trad climb. There's enough placement.
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Iron Curtain | |||||||
22 | ★★ I May Be Old But At Least I'm Crusty | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First 22! Super fun and varied climb.
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Wed 15th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Observatory | |||||||
22 ~26 | ★ Optical Confusion | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
After 3rd bolt, not sure should it go straigh up then left or go left from 3rd bolt. Anyway, cannot find any way to up. No way a 22.
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24 Easy | ★★ A Game of Three Halves | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nearly flash it. Took a rest at the last bolt. The climb is quite good,, just a but dirty.
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Farm Park | |||||||
Flax Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Silk Road — 2 attempts - with Thibaut, Richard Flinn | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This is feeling much closer than I'd expected - but it's still really hard. Need to clean up my moves through the bottom section!
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Farm Park | |||||||
Rat Wall | |||||||
24 Hard | ★★ Rat Race — 2 attempts | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This one is making me work for it - but it's feeling close. And it's really fun!
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Iron Curtain | |||||||
19 ~20 | ★ Pitchin' & Moanin' | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Middle Curtain | |||||||
20 Hard | ★ Hoover | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat
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24 | ★★ Dablam | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
The climb is ok, but the rock is not.
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Farm Park | |||||||
Rat Wall | |||||||
22 Easy | Gear on ★★ Green Mile - with Richard Flinn, Robin Wareing | 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hidden gem
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
Closed Project | 17m, 5 | ||||||
Top Guns, 29
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | |||||||
The Point | |||||||
16 ~17 | ★★★ High Hopes - with Rach | 45m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Maybe a little harder? So much fun though!
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Crux feels different traversing in from Bolts. Was planning to get on Trog but it was wet and now I’m inclined to tick this one first.
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27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time repeating Gorilla in yonks. Such a fun route.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up.
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Love Vigilante Boulder | |||||||
28 | ★ Love Vigilante - with Albie Thomas | ★ Good | |||||
holy shit the holds are whimsical but usable
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff | |||||||
Ravages Area | |||||||
20 |
★★★ The Ravages of Time
- with
Kati Tureo
2
18
35m
lead by
Kati Tureo
Spicy book corner finger crack at the end
4
20
30m
lead by
Kati Tureo
6
16
35m
lead by
Kati Tureo
| 170m, 47 | |||||
Big frost in the morning! couldn't feel fingers first pitch. Getting late in the season to make it within the daylight window. Turned back once it started getting real cold as Timone (dog, not a person) was tied up at the base.
Uncut 60m is fine
Awesome drive, approach, climb, area and company! |
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Ti Point | |||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Troll — 2 attempts - with Toby Jackson, Kiera Montgomery, Fergus Roache | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really happy for this one to go down so quickly. Thank you for the immense belay Toby
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Cattlestop Crag | |||||||
Solar Wall | |||||||
19 Easy | ★ Pssst | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
call me amogus the way i be impostor syndrome
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
The Alcove | |||||||
23 | ★★ Bird Lime | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux is just before the anchors - fun as!
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | |||||||
Lakeside Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Two Tools, One Tool, No Tools | 11m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Looks like I went a little more to the right than the line suggests. Will try it again sticking more to the crack. Great pocket moves.
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15 | ★ I Do My Cleaning in the Rain | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cleaned that pincer looking hold lower down (used to fit a nice green cam). Was actually loose, so may have to protect using surrounding cracks
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Ashurst Bouldering | |||||||
Tee Tree Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Momen-Tea-Tree Lapse of Reason | ★★ Very Good | |||||
quality
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V2/3 ~V3 | ★ Nathen's Nasty Arete | ★ Good | |||||
felt v3
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Hungover | 20m | Average | ||||
Top section has a nice thick layer of moss.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Roadweary | 20m, 9 | |||||
Only fell once this time, last time was bolt to bolt
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Gargoyle | ||||||
Exited right to get to belay ledge instead of left
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock | |||||||
The Keep | |||||||
21 ~22 | ★★ Falling Buttress | 20m, 7 | |||||
Went from the base of the crag and continued up past the ledge clipping the extra bolt to top out proper. Roughly 30m and feels like a 22 doing it this way.
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25 | ★★★ Arrested Development | 20m, 6 | |||||
Really tough. Cool moves
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★ Expedition Crack | ★★★ Classic | |||||
This was a fight!
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Pōhara | |||||||
Sea Grass Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Shotgun Therapy | 15m, 5 | |||||
Too pumpy for final climb of the day, got to the 4th bolt and couldn't figure out the moves to get the draw in so pumpy! Fun and strong climbing up to there though!
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last go of the day. I keep falling low today. But at least I have linked 1st to 2nd three times and finessed the top crux, completing it 3 times in 4 attempts today. So a good session. I think if I can get through the first crux from the ground I will have a good chance. Maybe 1-2 more sessions.
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it
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27 | ★★ Batman - with Ryan Yang, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First go of the day. Fell early, but then linked the lower crux from ledge to 2nd bolt clipping stance and clipped it. Felt pretty spooky. The top crux is starting to feel pretty dialled, and I found a slightly easier way to get left foot on jug through the middle section. All moves done now
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★ Thin and Germanic - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky start, hard to read, holds seem to go very off the bolt line
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20 | ★★ Don't Call Me Shorty - with Jess Cotton | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got more bolts now
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17 | ★★ Mud Wiggle - with Jess Cotton | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Now bolted
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23 | ★ The System - with Jess Cotton | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Now bolted
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Flock Hill Main Field | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Captain Hook | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice and unique moves
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||||
21 | ★ Galaxy Grovel - with James Wuu | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Need to work on smearing for the lower bit and holding tension on the upper. Such awkward, diabolical fun.
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18 ~19 | ★ Star Gazer - with James Wuu | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Defeated by an 18.
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22 | ★★ Easy Lay - with James Wuu | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Now cleaned. Pulled out clumps every move… to reveal slime underneath for some spicy bridging.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders Birthday Block | |||||||
22 | Frill Seekers | 11m, 5 | Average | ||||
A bit overhang with good hold. The climb is good but the stone is bad and dusty. Any hold can break at any moement.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders Headstone | |||||||
Unknown | 15m, 5 | ||||||
Feel like a 19/20
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21 ~22 | ★ Cast Off | 15m, 4 | |||||
Hold are very slippy around the last bolt. Cannot go straight up, moved a bit right to go up.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★ Power Pack | 8m, 3 | |||||
repeat
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
21 ~20 | ★★ London Lassitude | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Boulder like start requiring upper body strength. Poor feet but jugs. Afterwards sustained but easier climbing
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15 ~16 | ★ Bowman | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Decent.
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14 Hard | ★ Rarified Atmosphere | 12m, 5 | Crap | ||||
Crap rock with some questionable blocks. Not enjoyable
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||||
27 | ★★ Batman - with Alexei Drummond, Tom Buckett | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had a great time figuring this one out.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Conservatory | |||||||
21 | ★ Slap on the Face - with annaliese | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Awkward and a little pumpy
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Get Kerfuffled - with annaliese | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky for the grade though not a sandbag as suggested by other folk
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up.
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27 | ★ He Devil — 3 attempts | 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite a nice linkup actually, and harder than Gorilla alone given that it also passes the crux of Rubble. Possibly 28 but easier than She Devil in its current state, so who knows? Either way, good training for Trog!
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Mount Pleasant | |||||||
Right Cliff | |||||||
26 | ★★ Gruse Power | 14m | |||||
Looks like couple crimps have broken off just before you get into the crack?
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Globe Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Super Blonde — 2 attempts | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is an AWESOME climb!!! I top roped it and it felt committing and pumpy then went for the lead send and it went! The start is so cool and quite burley but with good holds and after the 3rd clip feels quite desperate being pushed out but it was an epic climb so much fun
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
Slave Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Bondage for Beginners | 10m, 2 | |||||
I struggled with the first move off the ground! Then going from first to second clip was committing! Bill went with left hand up to the scoop/crack but I couldn't go that way so twisted in with a drop knee and went up with the right! Very fun, felt harder than a 17 at the bottom!
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Farm Park | |||||||
Quake Faces | |||||||
19 | ★★ Teen Angel - with Richard Flinn | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent. 19 sounds about right.
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24 Easy | ★★ Seismic Activity — 2 attempts - with Richard Flinn | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Loses its third star due to the wandery nature of the climbing. A great route nonetheless. Was touch and go in several sections; haven’t tried this hard for a send in a while.
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | |||||||
Lower Tier | |||||||
5 | ★★ Ain't Nothin' To It — 37 attempts | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
OH MY GOLLY GOSH FINALLY!!!! SUCH A SICK PROJECT, ONE OF THE FINEST I'VE SENT. WOW I'M SUCH A GOOD CLIMBER ))))
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Cattlestop Crag | |||||||
Solar Wall | |||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Footloose & Fancy Free | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Paynes Ford | |||||||
The Little Lost Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Nicknack Paddywack | 15m, 4 | |||||
Small dog at the start for me
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | |||||||
The Forest Rusty Bucket Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Rusty Bucket | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Felt hard but maybe I just had bad beta.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | |||||||
The Forest Forest Cliff | |||||||
V4 | ★★ High Heels | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Slopier than expected.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | |||||||
The Forest Butternut Squash Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★★★ Butternut | 2m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This rock is so cool and unique. I doubt you’ll find water worn basalt like this anywhere else, unless kauri also grow there.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||||||
Flock Hill Main Field | |||||||
V9 | ★★★ Monster Society of Evil | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Awesome!
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Tue 7th May 2024 - Te Kiekie / Mt Somers | |||||||
Pinnacles Hut Area The Pinnacles Central Pinnacle | |||||||
20 | ★★ Rocky Road | 66m, 37 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thought this was really good. Better rock quality than the guidebook let's on
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Te Kiekie / Mt Somers | |||||||
Pinnacles Hut Area Main Walls The Fortress | |||||||
21 |
★★ Scimitar
- with
Isaac
2
21
21m
lead by
Isaac
| 56m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux pitch was actually fantastic after some gardening, despite clearly seeing zero traffic. Probably my favourite pitch of the trip
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ G-Dub | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A decent sport route which becomes a mega classic once you ignore the bolts. The lower section consists of decent gear placed from awkward and slightly strenuous positions. Two bomber placements below the crux means you can climb the entire steep section with relative comfort into a kneebar rest where the last runner is placed. This runner is a bit of a joke and probably wouldn't hold a fall which makes the final few moves to the anchor a bold prospect. While the climb is technically safe (with little chance of decking) from the kneebar you're 100% committed as the safety of the bolts are now out of reach. So would recommend having the last section dialled before trying it on lead
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Farm Park | |||||||
Quake Faces | |||||||
19 | ★★ Teen Angel | 15m, 5 | |||||
Pretty good route, though it needs a bit of cleaning.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Te Kiekie / Mt Somers | |||||||
Pinnacles Hut Area Main Walls Orange Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Skate - with Isaac | 38m, 2 | |||||
got worked. I am not good at finger cracks
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12 | ★ That's Us Baby - with Isaac | 60m | |||||
quality rambling back to camp
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Sun 5th May 2024 - McLaren Falls | |||||||
Upstream Walls Spider Wall | |||||||
V1 | Left Traverse — 5 attempts | ||||||
This boulder is hard! I started about 3 metres to the right of the topo drawn here. What I thought was the “prominent side pull” and made it past the topo’s drawn start where I hit micro crimps + no feet + overhang. So idk, I could be doing it wrong, wouldn’t be the first time. But by far the most fun of the mclarens boulders I tried.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - McLaren Falls | |||||||
Upstream Walls The Alcove | |||||||
V1 | ★ Candlestick | ||||||
i liked the high foot to top out on this one
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Sun 5th May 2024 - McLaren Falls | |||||||
Upstream Walls Claw Corner | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Cat Scratch — 3 attempts | ||||||
finger crack start was harder for me than it should have been, but easy after the start
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V2 | ★★ Paper Cut | ||||||
top out is tricky, i popped up a little bit to the left of where the topo said. nothing but bare wet slippy rock to the right where the topo lines go up.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Bulge Gully The Wave Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Unknown 2 | 10m, 2 | |||||
Very seriously dispute that this is 22. More like 20. Particularly if I can onsight it. Sharp as anything though!
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Mister Daddy Long Legs | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally knocked it off. Not sure how, but got it together and didn't come off
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19 | ★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good warmup, shaky start, but a solid finish
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
27 Easy | ★★ Hiroshima — 2 attempts | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route. Techy moves through the roof then powerful over the lip
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
19 | ★★ C.J.D Arete | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Also kinda cruxy
|
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23 | ★★ The Whiskey Delta Trilogy | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Incredible, it climbs like a bay route
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17 | ★★ The Angel of Calcutta | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Kinda cruxy
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Ti Point | |||||||
The Arch | |||||||
19/20 | ★★ Devil of Delhi | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So lovely
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18 | ★★ The Angry Sea and the Sky | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool exposure
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Te Kiekie / Mt Somers | |||||||
Pinnacles Hut Area Main Walls Orange Wall | |||||||
16 Hard | ★★ Orange Roughy | 32m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
oh yeah
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
The Zoo | |||||||
20 ~21 | Gorilla At Large | 16m, 3 | |||||
Had to work out the moves again. Still hard at the crux.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Britten Crag | |||||||
Bargain Basement | |||||||
21 | Red Shed | 4 | Don't Bother | ||||
Contender for worst rock at Britten?
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21 | Mexican Wave | 8m, 3 | Average | ||||
A couple of fun moves at the bottom, but untrustworthy rock
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Conservatory | |||||||
24 | ★★ The Entertainer | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good climb with bad rock at the start
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16 ~17 | ★★ Sweet Sixteen | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
More like a hard 17 or soft 18
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Bridle Path Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Second Mouse Gets The Cheese | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A few goes, got the first move a couple times, then a finger went pop and I took up sailing.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
24 | ★ Wishbone | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Well worth doing, crimpy.
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Te Kiekie / Mt Somers | |||||||
Pinnacles Hut Area Main Walls The Far Side | |||||||
20 | ★★ Once A Jolly Swagman - with Isaac | 72m, 5 | |||||
Don't really know what we climbed at the start. Ended up doing 4 pitches, think the last two were right
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Waipari | |||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spurt — 4 attempts | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
havent been on in a bit, put draws and worked moves. Lack power endurance to redpoint - powered out by the time I reach the dorito
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Te Kiekie / Mt Somers | |||||||
Pinnacles Hut Area The Pinnacles West Pinnacle | |||||||
17 | ★ Soap On A Rope | ★★★ Classic | |||||
honestly reaallllly frothed this one. cool start traversing left onto a slab, over a big drop!! about 45m? 13 bolts. so epic and such a thrill
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16 Hard | ★★ Nameless Girl | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
kinda skitz but has more bolts than mentioned now (like 4 or 5?) so that’s cool
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