Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | ★★ D Minor
1
10
25m
2
14
10m
The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★★ Sweet Dreams
1
14
20m
2
10
20m
3
13
28m
4
13
25m
5
14
40m
Offers up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. Sweet Dream is regarded as the best introduction to multi-pitch climbing in New South Wales - however a recent fatality from rock fall and serious accident involving belayer failure should remind climbers this is not a casual walk in the park. The advice below is relevant to any multi-pitch route - but is contained in this route description to make sure people read it. Rock fall is a hazard on any outdoor rock climb - but it can be especially hazardous on Sweet Dreams due to multiple parties being on the route at the same time. The danger is mainly from the unstable hillside above the route when topping out - but loose rock can be found on any pitch. Wear a helmet (on the approach and even when queuing at the base of the route) and rig belays with long enough slings/rope that a belayer can dodge falling missiles without being chained down. Care needs to be taken by all parties who attempt this route. If you have a beginner in tow let them know to be careful around loose rock. This route is mainly low angle and thus easily affected by rain and summer sun. Have the skills and equipment to abseil off the route if required. This includes taking tube style belay devices suitable for double ropes (a grigri will not work). All belays are fitted with double ringbolts suitable for abseiling. A 60m rope is required for retreat above pitch 2 - use the anchors on Saccharine Nightmare. Although there are many bolts on this route - this is NOT a sport route (despite what you may have heard). A trad rack is required for pitches 2 & 5 and useful on other pitches (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Bolt brackets are no longer required on this route. Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent. The route is only grade 14 if you finish via the corner system & left finish on pitch 5. There are two bolted variants to this pitch (both around grade 17) that avoid potential loose rock in the corner. Local advice is to use these pitches in preference to the corner (this was the location of the rockfall fatality). Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.
The three variants to pitch 5 off the ledge are described here - but also have separate listings on this website. The Original Finish (14) - climb the same trad corner for 20m then traverses RIGHT onto a big ledge and cam belay near huge detached blocks (not recommended due to potential loose rock). Finish up via 10m (10) pitch up the chossy overhang above taking extreme care not to drop rocks on people below. Middle Bolted Variant (15-17) - climbs the wall just left of the corner past several ringbolts and then goes directly up the TRAD protected finish of the original pitch 5. This pitch is the easier of the two variants - it is possible to escape into the corner at one point which makes it more like grade 15. Left Bolted Variant (17) - from the left DRB climb the subtle exposed arete past three or so ringbolts then join into the Middle Variant for a couple of bolts and then the trad finish. It is possible to traverse left at about 20m to the final belay of Saccharin Nightmare - and finish up that routes top bolted pitch (thus avoiding the trad finish of Sweet Dreams. FA: T. Batty & Bryden Allen †, 1963 | 130m, 6, 20 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter
1
10
30m
2
14
30m
3
13
18m
An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon. Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.
FA: 1965 | 78m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Joseph
1
13
24m
2
14
22m
Start 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).
FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964 | 46m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ Mañana
Classic easy sport route - bring the bolt plates for this. Start 40m left of Katoomba Bros at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof. Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting! FA: Peter Chaly & Niall Doherty, 2003 | 22m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Electric Lead
A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun). FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron | 26m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★ Fucary Rug
The super popular left side of the arete. All rings and lower-off at top (or top out to carrots). FA: M Pearce & A Brown, 1996 | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy.
Start 5m R of 'MOBS'. A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB. | 15m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ Shit Heap
Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing. TR access can be gained by scrambling up from the left. FA: Ian Cameron & Rick White | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts
Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'. Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'. FA: ross ferguson, Gareth Llewellin & Kevin Coleman, 2005 | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac
Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor. FA: John Moore, 1967 | 28m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ The Obituary
Major corner crack and a popular all trad line. Beware, the route name is apt - there have been a couple of fatalities on this route. If in doubt don't run it out. FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Minimus
The bulging crack just right of the plaque. FA: Bob Bull & John Fahey | 12m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Electronic Flag
A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. Decent gear all the way but if you're belaying be aware that there are several ledges that the leader could hit. There are three choices of start to this route: the rightmost is the Direct Start (19) which takes the clean layback corner into the line. The middle start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17. The original route (14) starts 4m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section. Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down, or 1 x 70m will suffice). FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur
Start at the faint "SI" mark. Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail
Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'. Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'. FA: Guy Pearce, Cass Crane & ross ferguson, 2004 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★★ Faki
The best 14 here! The brilliant L facing corner is an excellent introduction to sustained bridging and jamming. Rap chain is visible just up from the ledge. FA: Fred From (solo), 1976 | 13m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★ Pete's Two Bob
4 or 5 moves on incuts. FA: Peter Van Klooster, 1999 | 6m | Nowra | ||
14 | ★★ Turtle Wall
Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs. FA: Rod Young | 17m, 7 | Nowra | ||
14 | ★ Spooge In A Glove
Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'. FFA: Steve Kloske & Paul Pagoldh, 2014 | 15m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
V0- | ★ M.A.S.H.
Start in the bottom of the little flared crack and go up diagonally left under tree branch. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
14 | ★★ Tremulo
Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor. FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Mantis
Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left. Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang. FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1965 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Pentennial Romanticide
Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'. Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB. FFA: Adam Gibson & Ria Zoeller, 2009 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | Tony
Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete FA: Sue Young, 1999 | 8m, 3 | Nowra | ||
14 | ★ Crap
Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C". Decent beginner lead, well-protected by 5 RBs to chains. (Rebolted May 2020) FFA: Darrin Carter & John Hattink, 1993 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★★ Mantle
More great slabbing. Start 8 metres right of Brolga, directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965 FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965 | 90m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Over the Yardarm
Up to the ledge then head left to the arete and enjoy the exposure. FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1986 | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ||
14 | ★ Ole Biscuit Barrel
Shared start with Pitang Pitang. Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles. Likely to be stiff for the grade. FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994 | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Squashed Parrot
Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab. FA: M.Pekin & L.McManus, 1989 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Open to Public Scrutiny
Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna' Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness. FA: Garth Miller & Jay Williams, 1992 | 20m | Mount Alexandra | ||
14 | ★ Ckinell
The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start. Start: Just L of Melville's Cave. FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 28m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ 2 For Tea
Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 32m, 9 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Event Horizon
Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH". Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014. FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 17m, 4 | Mt Ngungun | ||
14 R | ★★ Hot Flap
1
8
24m
2
13
30m
3
14 R
32m
4
13
50m
5
12
35m
Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected. Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
FA: John Fahey & Bob Bull, 1965 | 170m, 5, 3 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ One For The Masses
Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. 5th bolt added Dec 2016 on request of FA. FA: Mark Rewi, 2007 | 20m, 5 | Camels Hump | ||
14 | ★ Theory
This is not a well protected route. There have been a number of accidents on it and there are better choices if you are looking for routes of this grade (Electric Lead, Electronic Flag, Devil's Wart) Up the first corner to a ledge. From here, most people step into the middle line under the R edge of a huge chock stone-like flake. Up this with increasing difficulty to rest. Alternatively, you can go up SC for a move or two and step in L. From here, blast up the chock stone filled corner, and then easily to the chains at the tree. FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969 | 25m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★ Lounge Lizard
Start in the corner, behind the tree... do not lean on the tree.. it bends ! FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 15m, 5 | Nowra | ||
14 | ★★ The Phantom
Corner 4m left of N. Undercut start, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires). Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay. FA: J Ewbank & K Carter | 31m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Tarzan
Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders. Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.
FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968 | 33m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Nero
The crack requires a bit of jamming. Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'. FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 13m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Gently Mine
FA: L Smith & W Williams | 50m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Snooze and You Lose
2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height. Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds. This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo". FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991 | 24m, 9 | Mount Alexandra | ||
14 | ★ After Dinner Delight
Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD” Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux. FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 12m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ Orchid Alley
Often nicknamed "Awkward Alley", to avoid the awkwardness, you will be climbing committing bridging and face moves. Climb a great hand crack corner to a flake at 3m... the straight forward climbing ends there. Blast up the wide and grunty crack to the ledge with a tree on the L. From here 3 lines are possible, using a combination of the left crack and middle arete moves is exciting and good climbing. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★★ Loyalty
Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap. Start: Start between H & F. FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975 | 18m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train
2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves. Start: Start 6m R of DS. Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Bacchus
This is a must, nice bridging on good rock. Start: The main corner below the sheoak tree. FA: Martin Bell & Alan Coghlan, 1972 | 23m | Onkaparinga | ||
14 | ★ Selective Cleansing
One for the Kiddies Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012 | 10m, 3 | Mount Alexandra | ||
14 | ★★ Urban Spaceman
Up 'Dracophyllum Corner' to ledge then move left and straight up wall. FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown & Ian Charles, 1986 | 27m | Point Perpendicular | ||
14 | ★★★ Cornerstone Rib
1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justifiably so. One of the most striking lines in Australia. Can be safely climbed and descended with a single 70m rope.
Was originally called 'Cornerstone Rib Direct' but as the direct version is far more popular than the 'original' version, the direct version has taken the name. FA: Bryden Allen † & Ted Batty, 1962 | 190m, 7 | Warrumbungles | ||
14 | ★ Anonymous
Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A". The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead. FFA: David Reeve, 1968 | 20m | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ The Dog's Paw
Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave. Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD. FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 | 15m, 6 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★★ Salamander
1
12
25m
2
13
25m
3
14
10m
4
14
25m
5
12
30m
Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing. Start as for Watchtower Crack.
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1964 | 120m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Ben Hur
The corner crack just Right of 'Barbara Streisand'. Finish up the ramp to DRB Loweroff added by Safer Cliffs Victoria 14 July 23. Be aware a large Cunningham's skink may be in residence hiding in the flake (waist level) above the bottom shelf. FA: Keith Lockwood, 1970 | 18m | Werribee Gorge | ||
14 | ★★ Westham
The corner | 15m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
14 | ★ Hangman
Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish. Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack. FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Banana King
Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK” Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip. FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 12m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★★ Shandy
1
8
33m
2
8
26m
3
6
14m
4
14
26m
Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.
LOST FROM LEFT SCRAMBLE? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, here's how to get out: Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience. FA: K Western, 1958 | 99m, 4, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ Fiddlesticks
Starting at a prominent corner with twin cracks.
Continue as for "Bert's Fear" (45m) up the ridge or rap down your choice of three anchors right from ledge - Brown Madonna / Pleasant Screams. FA: Tom Terry & Geoff Wyatt, 1967 | 65m, 2 | Mount Wellington | ||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle
A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.
FA: A.Penney, P.Martland & J.Smoothy, 1985 | 50m, 2, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Get Walking
Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up. | 9m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
14 | ★ The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start)
Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start. An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt. FFA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★★ Touchstone
Two very nice pitches.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1974 FFA: Dan Kortschak & Jo Thomas, 2003 | 60m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 R | ★ Cornflake Crack
Start at the base of the deep crack. Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up. FA: Glenn Sharrock, Loretta Davis & Brett Henderson, 1995 | 18m | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ Refusal
Corner to the right of ME. FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Bingo Wings
Step off block and follow steepening slab. FA: rick phillips | 15m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||
14 | ★★ The far right
Up the wall as you please, trending ever so slightly to the left until you merge with 'Apline'. Start: At the far right of the wall (but still at the base). FA: Unknown, 2000 | 50m | Freycinet National Park | ||
14 | ★ George's Perspiration
Right hand route on the wall. Start on the right hand edge of the block. Set: B Jung FA: George Kiji Muraoka, 2012 | 12m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Starboard Barnacles
Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree). Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay. FA: Johan Verhagen & Dave Stuckey, 1984 | 20m | Barrenjoey | ||
14 | ★ Owen Glyndower
Shallow groove just above right side of small cave 5m right of 'Locris'. Finish on One For The Masses 5th bolt. Retrobolted with permission of FA, Dec 2016. FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 1989 | 24m, 4 | Camels Hump | ||
14 | ★ Found the Salt
Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL. FA: Matt Butler & Colin Carstens, 2008 | 13m, 5 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Get Tracked
Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'. | 11m | Bangor West | ||
V0- | ★ The usual descent
| 5m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Nananapper
Start 1.5m left of Whippersnapper in the squeeze, straight up wall to last bolt of Nana in the dark and on to anchors. FA: Michael Law | 9m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
14 | ★ Blondes in Beanies
The LH side of the buttress. Keep the second bolt at the small roof to your left and stay on the left side of the upper flake. FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011 FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011 | 20m, 7 | Onkaparinga | ||
14 | ★ Up the Creek
Cross the creek at lower level. DRB at the top. This and the next route have a lower off at the top. Start: Step over creek and up crack/boulder feature then up the face above to the lower off. | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto
A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Yoink
A good climb up the prominent flake in middle of wall. 3 U's to lower offs. FA: Andrew Morrison | 10m | The Stables | ||
14 | ★ Gecko
A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to Salamander or as a climb in its own right. FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1965 | 48m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ S.S.C.C.1
Start 4m left of Pharoah, just L of the arete. Arete (small-med cams, ringbolt), then right at the level of the tree to join Pharoah. Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor. FA: J.Worrall & R.Templeton, 1966 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend
1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall. Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay. Protection: - 1 carrot - Cams: BD #.3 (doubles), #.5 (doubles), #2 Anchors: 2 carrots (too close to the edge) 2 trees about 2 meters back from edge FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 16m | Barrenjoey | ||
14 | ★ Stephen's Eyeful Tower | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ Okipoki
3m right of Devious Diversions. Set: B Jung FA: J Reay, 2012 | 10m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ The Magical Liopleurodon
Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 12m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | Malcontent
Start just R of 'Crap'. Marked "M". Straight up using the bolts on 'Crap' but keeping to their R. (Equipped with RBs May 2020) FFA: Darrin Carter, 1993 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ Final Call
FA: 's, 1980 | 10m, 4 | Nowra | ||
14 | ★ The Bummer
Follows the stepped, right-facing corner, passing several ring bolts, before moving left past a couple of fixed hangers to double-bolted rings at the top. | 14m, 5 | Canberra | ||
14 | ★ Ding bat
2m right of Lactose Free, up juggy wall. FA: Kevin Van tilburg, 2005 | 11m, 3 | Mt Ku-ring-gai | ||
14 | ★ Your Choice
Has two sets of anchors. Only grade 10 to first set. Set: B Jung FA: B Jung, 2012 | 10m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Unknown
| 19m, 7 | Mountain Quarry | ||
14 | ★ Fido
Crack on the left. FFA: Max Keating & Karen Keating, 1992 | 10m | Mt Alexander | ||
14 | ★ The Cat that Fought Back
Leftmost of the 3 slabs before BtB FA: M Warren, 2011 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★ Deceit
Delicate start to the 1st RB, then up on easier ground past 3 more RB to DRB loweroff. Rebolted and replaceable rap rings added to the DRB 04/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria. | 20m, 4 | Black Hill | ||
14 | ★★ The Pintle
Abseil in two pitches down from the lookout or walk in around the base.
FA: FFA: John Taylor, Mike Carmody & Glenn Casey - Summer, 1973 | 70m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | ★ Carrie Bradshaw
Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB. FA: Niall Doherty, 2003 | 12m, 3 | Barrenjoey | ||
14 | ★ Midwife Crisis
On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling. FA: Kath Meek, 2001 | 14m, 6 | Paynes Ford | ||
14 | ★ Adam's Rib
Start at the massive "AR" mark. Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top. FA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1968 | 17m | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ The Last of the Jelly Beans
Set: B Jung FA: B Jung, 2012 | 10m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
14 | ★★ The Big Corner
Climb the corner, then move left along the big flake. FA: Geoff Wyatt | 20m | Hospital Flat |