Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Straight up the middle of the middle face of the boulder.

The overhanging part of this boulder has a seam running all the way round it, unsure on stability/safety.

Good lowball crouch/sit-start and a long traverse.

Climb the hand crack to the undercling head left, then straight up to top on features. This is a guess, it looks like it should go, just needs a light scrub. Most likely been done already.

lots of different eliminate problems can be done on this face staring from either the central or right starting position. A good one involves eliminating the high right hand pocket from the problem which forces some cool moves.

On the lower tier below the roof boulder are some good features for warming up. Problems from V0-V5ish. About 6 or 7 problems from memory...

Start low and straight up.

SDS straight up the middle.

Stand start and fridge hug the two sides of the boulder and up. Sit start V4.

The grade depends massively on your height, easy tick for anyone over 6ft, a different story for those under it.

An original classic of Sissy that suffered damage when someone decided to smash off holds 8 and 10 in 2007.

It still goes and is worthwhile but grade has never been confirmed. Give it a go and share your thoughts.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

Climb the left arete.

Begin with hands as for ooft but move left along the rail, come out from under the boulder and use the extremely large pocket on the way up. Very cool climb

Begin as for ooft but move straight from the starting holds out towards the lip. Slightly harder than ooft.

has not been bolted yet 3mt right of CW under the tree

has not been bolted yet. right side of big cave

The left route. Start from left arete. "Easy press" according to FA.

Very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19).

Diagonal line from right to left. Start on 7 finish up 5.

Start matched on ledge. head up following corner to a blank slab top out.

Sit start at base of obvious flake with good sidepulls for both hands. Follow feature up to break and continue up dislodged block to finish on large shelf.

Safest descent is to downclimb a little and jump. Scary alternative is to head left around bulge onto slab and descend as for Sink or Swim.

Starts as for AFNL L. Move LH to tooth and move delicately up and R via reachy moves to slopey gaston rail and high, good crimp.

Sit start at the base of the well featured face. Gently overhanging climbing on good pockets.

Up slab to the right of the descent for "Gold". Mind your back. Crack is out.

Start on side pull and awkward high sloper. Smear and establish high foot. The crux is the slopey arete with some fairly dynamic moves. Mantle to finish. Possibility for a sit start.

Start on the highest chipped holds you can reach (above the traversing problem Rinaldo), then mantle over the bulge using some reasonable holds and walk up to top out. A lower start is possible which could go from the same start as Rinaldo, and would be significantly harder. Named Dandruff for the exfoliating nature.

Sit start then head left around the arete on small holds and incuts. The crux is getting up over the ledge at mid height. Roughly v3 if you eliminate a few holds.

Traverse left from about 1 metre right of #41 (shares a start with #41 LH variant), around to the big crack and up.

An awesome, sequency and technical climb up through some good holds to a scoop, pinch and crimp with the option of a very sharp sidecling to help you through. A good little number. Was going to be Paddy's first first ascent here, but he didn't have enough gas left.

Up the south face of the Candlestick

Start with right hand on an incut crimp 1/2 left of the layback, left hand on sloper and up.

Up the seaward face of the boulder. starting compressing on the lowest left side pull and right pinch with feet on the tiny edges below. Go up directly to the top

A sit start for "Surprise surprise" " or "Straight Surprise" which begins with the right hand on the starting pinch and the left hand on a second pinchy hold just beneath and to the left. then moves easily into the actual problems. Doesn't add much difficulty to the problems.

Keeps the balancy start of Winky Pops, then up through delicate territory just left of and above the seam.

Start on obvious side pull on the right of the standing boulder. Find feet and move up to a delicate mantle. The landing is a little uneven but, if you aren't confident, would be fine with a spotter.

CCH15 V2

LOW sit start by the left edge using bad holds and a miserable toe under the "roof." Pop your left hand up to a gaston, then roll up to a good hold higher up. Finish straight up the (VE) slab.

Start on the juggy part of the seam just to the left of the bush. Finish as for The Waste Land.

Start as for Dirty Little Slapper and head straight up the face using small pockets and the right arete. Stay left of the arete.

Stand start compressing the small prow with smeary feet, slap your way to the top. Potential hard SS.

Start both hands on a V incut, hit the pocket and traverse across to a small side pull. From there, head straight up.

Red circles (4), see topo. A harder varient to 'Salami' finishing up 'Mantle or Roll' starting on the same hold though avoiding the jugs and using a high pinch and crimp and topping out with a nice mantle.

The slab with a hole at the bottom about 0.2m form the ground. Start on a left facing corner feature and move straight up to the slab. Often dirty and not exactly destined to be a classic. We can't all be beautiful.

Start just behind the Lamp Post 23 and traverse rightward up and down along the slopey lip to the corner

Traverse leftward from the Six Men arete to the next arete left.

Start on the pedestal and climb up the arête directly over the track. As a pad pretty much blocks the track for this one, trying it at say 5pm on a sunny summer afternoon is probably not a great idea.

Stand start on obvious hold, traverse right via good sloper, finish up slab.

Traverse the castle in either direction.

Sitstart in corner and follow ramp rightwards, then up onto ledge

Sit down start matched on small crimp just above the obvious big undercling crimp, be smart with your feet then big move up with the right to the jug (or gaston crimp if your feeling like adding a grade), slap the top to the left of the ‘disconnected’ bloc then top out

Sit start from flake and crack, and up via the big sloper.

Sit start straight up the nose

Start on slopey rail under bulge, crank straight up.

Up the underside, top out over the tip, or escape easier to the left

Sit start. Work up and around the diving platform.

Start on the slate and head up using small weathered features in the groove. Good fun!

Sit start matches on large sidepull. Head straight up the raised section with hand holds on either side to eventually reach an incut near the top for a sign of relief to top out.

Stand Start RH on good crescent shaped crimp and LH on jug hidden under boulder. Head up arete using ramp of boulder below before mounting the slab and following the seam above to top out on good holds at the lip.

Start as for Tunnel Vision but move out right to good edge on lower part of lip. Traverse right to shallow jug before the tree, then top out.

Jump Start to the lip of Whealy Easy's mantle and then downclimb it left to the cave, then continue left into 'Iron Cave Traverse' and finish for that.

Sit start 2m right of Das ist gut yah. LH on good high side pull, RH on small low side pull. Move left to crimp and undercling, tough move up to edge then top.

An absolute techy classic up the Arete. Stand start on amazing sidepulls/pinches

Stand start on obvious crimp edge at chest height with a good right foot down low. Dead point for top, mantle out.

Sit start same as Nala, big move right to ledge, along this and keep going right, exit through big holds to top.

Sit start same as Nala, big move right to ledge, along this and straight out through steep roof.

Sit start on the sloping jug rail and go straight up to finish at the top of the prow.

This boulder (Gluten Free Boulder) is 50m up (North) of Shanes Boulder.

Gluten Free Cigarettes stand starts on the lowest big jug on overhang. Big moves on jugs to top out

Muscle from a sit start, round the overhang and tough mantle

Open project. Doesn't look high, but if you fall, you fall down a crack...

Standing start. Has some really cool holds.

The steep face and arete of the boulder

Starting on the two obvious small crimps. Go up and slightly R to topout.

A bit of a dynamic pop up to a good R foot then up.

Big flake for LH, RH on undercling sidepull. Up face via slopey edges.

Up LH arete

You used to have to squeeze your way up under a fallen tree using the face and the right-hand arete. It's easier without the tree!

Same Sit-start as "Hope and Hindrance" but dyno directly to finish. Besides the initial starting hold, all other holds on the arete are out.

in the middle of the overhung face using horizontal break.

Right-hand tiny arête.

Stand start matched on thin sharp edge. Feet position you almost hanging, then boost into vertical edge and then upper feature to topout on. Worthy of more stars if were longer and slightly less sharp. Working on starting more to the right and traversing into thin sharp edge.

Sit start spread on two left-most cracks on higher-ground side of arete. Work upside-down V crack system to topout top left prow.

Start for Richie, but entire large horizontal break is out except far left edge. Gain this, head left to gaston then up to cracked features. Straight up, no right low ledge for standing. Contrived.

Sit start with great layback jug in middle of face. Up via long moves on nice holds.

Start low, on sloped holds near right side arete. Up through blocky features.

Fun but weird. Start in low cave in far left side of roof crack. Feet on detached rock to knee bar along using crack all the way right to where you wedge into corner. No topout.

Using direct crack as a roof climb is awkward and slightly painful due to crack features. But if doable would be rad and hard.

Jared Tyerman and Farid Borbar

Sit start hanging or with foot on detached boulder beneath. Sloping arete, mid height edges, positive arete hold. Gain top feature for topout.

Start with series of jugs, heading up before making long moves through the blank section to holds near the lip. Top out at high point.

Start on two obvious slopey features on side face of boulder. Move into jug and traverse up and L along slopey edges to top out at highest point.

Start low and matched on pocket. Head out left to an awkward finish on slopers. (History as One Armed Bear Hug V2- unknown FA name, was called Awkward Top (V3) as an assumed FA by Cameron before we saw youtube video of this)

Sit start low, moving up into crack feature with finger locks and cool windy moves.

Sit start with low big edge and move up through crack feature.