Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 7th Apr 2013 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Blue Suede Clues | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route. Cleanest of the routes here.
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21 23 | ★★ Cluecified (Cluecified (P1 Only)) | 85m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing. Like the whole wall, this route has its share of loose rock, but the long traverse is one of the more out there pieces of climbing ive done. Single rope is fine (take some long draws to minimise rope drag). Probably easiest to clean by having the route seconded.
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25 | Clueless | 30m | Average | |||
The roof at bolt 3 felt ok, but the top move to get to the anchor stumped me.
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Tue 2nd Apr 2013 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Travel Land | ||||||
21 | ★ Ekeko | 14m | ★ Good | |||
With Paul. Nice route. Ive done it before I think.
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22 | ★ Tribute | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky getting of the ground, then technical slabing. I wussed out and grabbed a draw. Boooo. Hard for the grade.
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Sat 9th Feb 2013 - The Paradiso | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Expendable Youth | 27m | ||||
Project shopping. Did all the moves, feels doable. Not sure whether to climb the corner and traverse under the roof at top, or climb the arete. Corner is less pumpy, but hard to clip.
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25 | ★★★ Retrograde Amnesia | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this twice with a couple of rests in the top corner.
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17 | ★ High Noon | 10m, 4 | ||||
Wed 30th Jan 2013 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
25 | ★★ Pleasant Screams | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First try tonight. The wet hold was dry! Main key was sneakily putting a long draw on bolt 7, and taping it in position to make it an easy clip from the 'wet' hold.
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Sat 19th Jan 2013 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 | ★★ Calvary | 12m | Average | |||
Nails. This route has my number.
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21 20 | ★ Religious Rubbish (Route between Ghost Rider and Gethsamane) | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Nice climbing. Not as sustainer as the other routes.
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Sat 19th Jan 2013 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Rock Of Ages & Surrounds | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Songs of Innocence | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent. Natural gearbstraightforward. Micro cams for first crack, mid sized wires for top. Almost pumped off the top.
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27 | ★★★ Throne of Judgement | 15m | ||||
spanked.
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23 | ★★★ Ancient of Days | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Get on it.
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21 | The Gatekeeper | 8m | Average | |||
Warm up. Felt hard. Went for the wrong hold at the top.
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Thu 17th Jan 2013 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
25 | ★★ Pleasant Screams | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead 1st half of AM to set up a top rope on P1. Sorted all the moves out. Cool pitch. In the middle of a dry spell, the jug at the top of the black streak is still wet. Therefore, its always wet.
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Sun 13th Jan 2013 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | ||||||
25 | ★★ Rambo | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. No hard to read moves. Nice route.
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22 | ★★ Walk Like an Egyptian | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up
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23 | ★ Fear Factory | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Spanked by the traverse.
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Wed 26th Dec 2012 - The Paradiso | ||||||
22 | ★★ Amnesia | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
25 | ★★★ Retrograde Amnesia | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt really solid 2nd shot. Would be bloody hard without chalk on the holds.
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21 | ★★ Man's Machine | 32m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★ High Noon | 10m, 4 | ||||
Sat 22nd Dec 2012 - The Paradiso | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Too Tall Oxen | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 | ★★★ Thunder Birds Are Go | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2.5 tries today. Not a particularly easy tick. Great route until the ledge at 3/4 height, which is a no hands rest, and makes it a bit inconsistent.
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25 | ★★★ Southern Exposure | 25m | ||||
Project shopping. Backed off at low roof. Might need to pre place the draws.
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17 | ★ High Noon | 10m, 4 | ||||
Wed 12th Dec 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
25 | ★★ Chop Sticks The Sequal | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice lead by roger. A couple of rests for me but leadable. Some tenuous and balancy moves.
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Sat 8th Dec 2012 - The Paradiso | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Thunder Birds Are Go | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★ K2 | 55m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★★ Too Tall Oxen | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Better route than i remembered.
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25 | ★★★ Sultan Of Sweat | 32m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First go today, putting on the gear. Only just made it through the traverse at the top.
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Fri 7th Dec 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Remembrance | 45m, 20 | ★ Good | |||
Followed ben. Still a few loose flakes being pulled off. P1 is nothing special (easy to step left to rest in cr) P2 is great. Long technical arete.
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Sat 1st Dec 2012 - The Paradiso | ||||||
16 | ★ Unzip | 13m, 5 | Average | |||
Warm up.
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17 | ★ High Noon | 10m, 4 | ||||
more warming up
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23 | ★★ Super Charger | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt straightforward. Had done years ago. Got drenched by a rouge wave when belaying ben.
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25 | ★★★ Sultan Of Sweat | 32m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dogged up on lead, then a top rope go. Powerful through the bottom roof, then thin and technical moving right at the top. Sling, .75 and. 5 cam for gear up crack. Loooong.
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Sun 18th Nov 2012 - The Monkeys | ||||||
Mad Monkeys | ||||||
22 21 | ★★ There's a Cat in My Alleyway | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Steeper than it looks.
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24 | ★ Give Me Convenience of Give me Death | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Got shut down on lead. Did moves on top rope after a good deal of dogging around. Felt hard for the grade to me.
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22 | ★★ The Etiquette of Violence | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
another nice pumper.
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22 21 | ★ True to Life | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not as good as the other routes here, but still pretty good.
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23 24 | ★ Romeo Is Bleeding | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Had a look at the end of the day. Excellent steep climbing. Rock quality a bit crap, but well bolted and will clean up. May only be 22 or 23.
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Sun 11th Nov 2012 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Amnesty Wall Area Amnesty Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ The Flying Emu | 18m, 6 | Average | |||
23 | ★★ Sting Like a Bee Direct | 19m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★ The Tyrants Grasp | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nice climbing, but too easy to step right to get rests.
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17 | ★ Amnesia (aka No Fixed Gear) | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Early morning visit to beat heat on way back to airport. Bloody hard start for 17.
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20 | ★ Raquel's Roadhouse | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 7th Nov 2012 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
22 | ★★ Terminal Insomnia | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 23 | ★★ Cosmic Psycho | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing pockets, then cool leftwards traverse.
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Wed 17th Oct 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ||||
25 | ★★ Suck Ethics | 15m, 6 | ||||
Moves ok. Still nervous about highstepping.
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Sun 10th Jun 2012 - South Sister | ||||||
Caramel Slice Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Look Sharp | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Well bolted. Interesting feature. Jeez my feet were hurting though...
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24 | ★ Slice n Dice | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Burly and technicaly interesting. Did all the moves, but would struggle to lead it. Tough clips
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19 | ★★ Turn the Page | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had done before. Excellent route, almost a classic. Techical, but with rests.
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20 | ★ Almost Twenty Seven (All Most 27) | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
not bad.
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22 | ★ The Grand Final Addition | 18m, 8 | Average | |||
Interesting, but not as good as AM27.
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Sun 22nd Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 同门山 Twin Gates East Wall | ||||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Three point Five | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climbing. I didnt like the L hand crimps so backed off.
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5.8 | ★ Smokin' | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Actually used a couple of mono's. Sweet!
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Sun 22nd Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 四方山 Square Mountain Treasure Cave | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ 赛安 Seyon (Sai Yan / Seyon) | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
steep! razor sharp edge at bolt 4.
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23 5.11a | ★ Fire Hydrant (Name?) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got a bit scared about 2 rusty bolts, but was able to place a sling in crack to left to back them up. The roof felt hard, and the upper wall was pumpy on rounded marbly horizontals. A bit dusty, but good climbing.
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5.10b | ★ Losing Face | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unusual climbing. Good value.
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Sat 21st Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Moonstruck (Moonstruck 1st pitch) | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Not a great warm up. Had two goes, and couldnt do it clean. Too much left hand crimping.
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5.11b 5.11d | ★★ Chino Chaco (Pegasus) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing, but a bit short and uninspiring compared too its neibours.
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Fri 20th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.11c 5.11d | ★★★ 两面双刀 Aiding and Abetting (Aiding and Abetting) | 25m, 10 | ||||
Felt much harder than 5.11c. Got mega pumped searching for the positive bits of the holds. No rests.
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5.12b | ★★ 魔鬼棒 Devil Sticks (Devil Sticks 魔鬼棒) | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good route. Cool sequence to get established on the wall above the roof.
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Wed 18th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
思龙地区 SiLong Crags 思龙山 Riverside | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ 九霄云外 Far, Far Away (Far, FarAway) | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
A bit epic clipping bolt 2. Big moved between huge incut jugs up high. Fell on 2nd last move. Wouldnt have been able to clip the chains anyway (too pumped).
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5.11c 5.11b | ★★ 躲避小行星 Avoid the Plutoid (Avoid the Plutoid) | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Well named. Pulled of a 'plutoid' next to bolt 3, and almost decked as Ben was pulled up to bolt 1. I must be getting fat. Route still climbable.
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Tue 17th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ 阳朔旅馆 Yangshuo Hotel (Yangshuo Hotel 阳朔旅馆) | 33m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had to have a crack, after Matt and Pauls awesome onsight and flash. Came of 5m above the 'Hotel' cave on the flash, then ok second shot. Almost pumped out moving left to the rest 5m below the chain.
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5.11c | ★★ 消耗战 Wall of Attrition (The Wall of Attrition) | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another long pumper. Loved the way that the holds near the top (where the angle eases) become small and slopey.
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21 5.10d | ★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 1 (Cave Man Pitch 1 山顶洞人) | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Not an ideal warm up. Buddy taping seems to be working.
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23 5.11a | ★★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 2 (Cave Man Pitch 2 山顶洞人) | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed P1 and P2 combined. Makes a great long pitch. P2 felt no harder than P1.
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5.10a | ★★ 橘子花香 Tangerine Blossom Fragrance (Jiu Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance)) | 21m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Terry. Tenuous moves moving left onto the arete.
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance Jeremy's Jiji | ||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Raw Donkey* | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The climbing isnt brilliant, but the experience is great. Thanks for carrying up the beer Matt!
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 巧克力墙 Chocolate Side | ||||||
5.11b 5.11c | ★★ 小朋友 Little Homie (Little Homie) | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Somehow managed to technique my way up, with the help of lots of finger tape.
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5.11a | ★★★ 旅游伙伴 The Traveling Alon (The Traveling Alan) | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really, really good climb. Get on it.
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 奶酪墙 Cheese Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Philly Cheese Steak (Philly Cheese Cake) | 34m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Warming up with Matt. Nice wall in a nice area.
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Sat 14th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ 甜筒 Vedro (No Name ???) | 12m, 6 | ||||
With Terry.
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5.11a | ★ 斯洛文尼亚 Jeja (Jeja) | 14m, 6 | ||||
Managed to clean up the dog from last week. Sweet.
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5.10d 5.11a | ★ 马佳 Ma Jia (Ma Jie) | 16m, 7 | ||||
Couldnt grip the holds I wanted near the top. Bailed.
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Thu 12th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg Fantasy Area | ||||||
17 5.9 | ★★ Absent Friends | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start.
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Thu 12th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ New Decade | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
God damn you New Decade...... First you tease me, then you humiliate me, then this year, you injure me. You've bested me sir.
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Wed 11th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ The Dark Side of the Moon (The Dark Side of the Moon 1st pitch) | 25m | ||||
No mistakes today. Still felt really hard.
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5.12b | ★★★ Proud Sky | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome. 2nd shot today. Tested Matts belay skills on the first shot, by falling while trying to clip the bolt just below the lip. Quite the fall.
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7b+ 5.12b | ★★ Great Leap Upward (Red Dragon p1) | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Project shopping. Sat on two draws, but it all felt pretty straightforward. Not great climbing, but good position.
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Mon 9th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 大榕树 Banyan Tree | ||||||
5.11b | ★ False Reality Extension (Name? 2pitch 6c) | 38m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Straightforward to half height, then bloody hard crux moves.
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5.11b | ★★ Open Team | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great looking line. Climbs well too. Felt an impossible sandbag as I dogged my way up it, but felt great second shot. Really technical with polished feet.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Beautiful Day | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Happy Hour | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable. Tweaked something in my side.
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Sun 8th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ The Dark Side of the Moon (The Dark Side of the Moon 1st pitch) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Miss read the moves and fell low down, almost pumped out up high too. Felt hard for the grade.
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5.12b | ★★★ Proud Sky | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
With JJ. Had a warm up run, then fell at the lip.
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5.10b | ★ New Moon | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The tufa seems like it is going to break, but I remeber thinking that 3 years ago, and its still there....
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 小雷劈 Entreprise's Crag | ||||||
6b+ 5.11a | ★ Mei Nu (Mei Nv) | 10m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Climbed this in super poor style. Lots of grovelly tufa humping, that provided mush ammusement.
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6a+ 5.10d | ★ No Spicy | 11m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Worthwhile.
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.11a | ★ 斯洛文尼亚 Jeja (Jeja) | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pumpy! Missread direction, needed to go left ont the arete.
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5.10d 5.11a | ★ 马佳 Ma Jia (Ma Jie) | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Much more overhanging than it looks.
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5.11c | ★★ 扒手 Pickpocket (Pickpocket) | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got lost in the pockets first try, then got lost and pumped out on a second try. The top wall, after the ledge is brilliant.
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Sat 31st Mar 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
23 21 | ★★ Shrapnel | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is a sweet route. Only the first 8 metres of bridging up the right hand butress detracts.
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Sat 31st Mar 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
26 | ★★ Gun Ho | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Most effort ive put into ticking a route. ? The dynow at the start is the crux for me.
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