Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Very pumpy to protect well in first half.
|
|||||||
22 22 R | ★ Aardvark Original Start (Aardvark Direct Start) | 18m | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
I think it's good but not awesome. One star.
|
|||||||
15 | ★ Mudeye | 12m | Don't Bother | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
16 | ★ Stentor 3rd Pitch | 12m | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Good fun!
|
|||||||
22 | ★ Private Detective | 12m | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Always a little scary.
|
|||||||
19 | What Is Carborized? | 18m | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
24 24 R | Private Assassin - with Esther | 10m | Average | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
I fell off the last move in light rain. Fortunately the cam held or I would have been mush.
|
|||||||
17 | ★ Saint Peter | 10m | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Good, strenuous climbing, a bit greasy
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | |||||||
21 | ★ Passionate Tips - with claudio trefny | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
15 | ★ Viagra - with Oz | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
18 | ★ Dude Boobs - with Claudio | 15m, 2 | Average | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Good position, climbing is average
|
|||||||
22 21 | ★ Frenzy | 25m | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Stiff for 21, start is desperate
|
|||||||
24 | ★★★ Spring Offensive - with Wendy Eden | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Brilliant! Bolts need replacing.
|
|||||||
23 | ★ A Plaything For the Missus | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Bolts need replacing
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||||
22 | ★ Guideline | 8m | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Cute!
|
|||||||
17 | Born to be Mild - with Edwin Irvine | 15m | Average | Wed 21st Oct 2015 | |||
"Like a true accountant's child, I was born born to be mild"
|
|||||||
25 | ★ The Flashing Blade | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
23 | ★★ Iron Void | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
I found this scary. The wires at the start take a lot of finding, and the top is runout above a dead tree to impale yourself on!
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle | |||||||
23 | ★★ Finger Prince | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | |||||||
23 | Throw Me No Beers | 12m, 2 | Average | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Bolts probably need replacing now
|
|||||||
20 | Steel Delinquency - with Ben Pearse | 18m | Average | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Don't remember it being that great.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
18 | Almost Completely Worthless - with Wendy | 10m | Don't Bother | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Almost completely worthless.
|
|||||||
17 | ★ Cruxless Knickers | 25m | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Placing the gear on the crux is harder than the climbing.
|
|||||||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac | 25m | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
A good one to learn to jam on, as there are not many face holds to escape onto!
|
|||||||
22 | Love that comfort | 24m | Average | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
19 | ★★ Telemachus | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
The start is great, the top wanders around and the rock quality drops off. I did the finish once, now I just lower off the ring at half height.
|
|||||||
24 | Mixed Blessing | 50m, 4 | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Looks better than it is. The bolts are practically unclippable.
|
|||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Amazing! Varied, exposed, exciting.
|
|||||||
15 | ★ Smooth Journey | 44m | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Hard 22. Powerful crux and varied climbing but not that sustained.
|
|||||||
26 | ★★ Golden Gaytime | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Good but not two stars. One or no stars
|
|||||||
26 25 | ★ Gay Olympics | 20m, 3 | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Thin and very hard.
|
|||||||
23 | Crows in the Snow | 20m | Don't Bother | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Poor gear, rock, and climbing. I have no idea why it gets a star.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area | |||||||
10 | ★ Clytemnaestra Buttress - with Wendy | 45m | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Definitely better than it looks.
|
|||||||
17 | ★★ lphigenia - with Jillian | 45m | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Good climbing but the rock quality drops off at the top. Nice pillar to finish on though.
|
|||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon | 42m | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Not that great! Greasy, awkward start. Good steep finish but seems way overrated.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus | |||||||
25 | Evading Infra-Red | 35m, 1 | Don't Bother | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Very thin hard start. Worthless.
|
|||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
I think this is great climbing, much better than Muldoon. Start is fairly hard and not that well protected if 17 is your limit.
|
|||||||
7 8 | ★★ Tantalus | 35m | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
13 | ★★ Hell For Leather | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
19 21 | ★ Blind Profit - with Wendy | 30m, 2 | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Original is too contrived to even work out where you're supposed to go. Step R at the first bolt, back left and then enjoy the fun top roof.
|
|||||||
20 | Tiresias | 38m | Average | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Scrappy climbing then a good roof up high. It is much easier to climb the roof than protect it! There is gear there if you can hang out to place it.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||||
22 22 R | ★★ Plimsoll Line | 15m | Don't Bother | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Really not that great, and quite scary now that the pins have fallen out.
|
|||||||
24 23 | ★★★ Orestes - with Duncan Steel | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Great climbing but not great rock! I seem to be alone in finding this 24 - it's sustained, steep and the traverse is taxing to protect well. Several people have hurt themselves falling off it.
|
|||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight - with Paul Hoskins | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.
|
|||||||
24 | ★ It'll Never Fly - with Edwin | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Sep 1991 | |||
Good fun but HAGF is the better route if you have the juice.
|
|||||||
27 29 | ★★ Jet Lag | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area | |||||||
18 | ★ Cassandra | 40m, 5 | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Good climbing but greasy rock.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Reunion | 25m | Average | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
24 | ★ Lois Lane - with ben weissner | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
Wow! Super technical. You can have handholds or footholds but not both. Would be a very demanding lead. I think gear was OK but placing it very hard.
|
|||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.
|
|||||||
26 | ★ Heimweh | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.
|
|||||||
20 19 | ★ Excuse Me While I Belch | 17m | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Surprisingly technical face to good crack. Good climbing.
|
|||||||
21 20 | ★★ Excuse me Lex | 32m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
This is the best option of all the various lines.
|
|||||||
14 | ★ Eurylochus | 33m | Don't Bother | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
The bottom groove is interesting but large chunks of rock on the top wall are very hollow. Finish is fun, but you're better off doing top pitch of Lex if you can.
|
|||||||
21 | Across the Andes by Frog | 20m, 1 | Average | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Don't really remember this but it looks a little dangerous.
|
|||||||
20 | ★★ Lex Luthor | 40m | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
The first pitch is slippery, hard off the ledge and short - not that great, but the second is good face climbing on (mostly) positive holds. Beware of brittle rock at the start.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Daily Planet | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Marred a little by the traverse in. Interesting climbing and fairly stiff for the grade.
|
|||||||
21 | ★★ I Dunno | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
I don't really remember it but thought it was good
|
|||||||
24 | I Dunno Direct Start | 10m | Average | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Just one move. If you can do it, it's a great route. If you can't, it's rubbish.
|
|||||||
23 | ★ Predator | 15m | Don't Bother | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Didn't seem that great - a few moves and it's over. And they're not great moves.
|
|||||||
8 10 | ★★ Mesa | 33m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Sep 2014 | |||
Great climb, steep and slabby. Hardest move is either the start or the slabby bit, cave is good if it's raining
|
|||||||
22 | ★ Fixed Smile | 12m | Average | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
22 | ★ Strombeante | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
Great fun. First bolt would be necky to clip if you were short. Topout is probably the crux but you can just lower off the chains on the lip - 23m to ground
|
|||||||
19 | ★★ Togrul Khan | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
Sustained for the first 6m then easy. Nice climbing.
|
|||||||
15 14 | ★ Tarzan | 33m | ★ Good | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
First move is very hard - at least 15. The rest is good.
|
|||||||
21 20 | ★ Cul-De-Sac - with Wendy | 10m | ★ Good | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
Seems very hard!
|
|||||||
21 20 | ★★ Pilot Error | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
Bolt is not good right now!
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area | |||||||
22 | DC 10 | 10m | Don't Bother | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
20 | So Help Me God - with Wendy | 10m | Don't Bother | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
Extremely dangerous - you'd hit the ground off insecure crux at 7m and the rock isn't great.
|
|||||||
23 | ★ Thanksgiving Sunday - with Wendy | 12m | ★ Good | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
Disappointingly hard just when you think it's over.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | |||||||
18 | ★★ Gilt Edged | 40m | Average | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
I remember it being super greasy. Good, but not classic.
|
|||||||
18 | ★★ Gilt Edged - with Suzanne | 40m | ★ Good | Thu 7th May 2015 | |||
This seemed very hard today, super slick and greasy. The bottom flake felt slippery and insecure, the crux bit kinda desperate, the roof confusing and a bit runout and the top pumpy and thought provoking. Good climbing mostly, shame it's more porkulent than a laardvaark.
|
|||||||
29 28 | ★★★ Cobwebs | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...
|
|||||||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Good but not two stars as I recall.
|
|||||||
24 | ★ Entangled | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Remarkably worthwhile as a second pitch to Astral Plane. Thin crux past old bolt.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★ Pwocol Hawum | 10m | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Surprisingly ok
|
|||||||
18 | ★ Wascal | 10m | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Tricky and surprisingly worthwhile
|
|||||||
16 15 | ★ ScarIet Sage | 10m | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Harder and steeper than it looks
|
|||||||
17 | ★ Mexican Madness | 10m | Don't Bother | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
17 | ★ Mexican Madness - with Suzanne | 10m | Average | Thu 7th May 2015 | |||
Poor rock in first half, gear's not that great either. Both get better as you get higher. Take 2 slings for jugs. Seemed stiff for 17 but somedays they all do.
|
|||||||
22 21 | ★ Metronome | 15m | Average | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Remember it being ok but very hard for the grade and not that well protected. Harder than it looks!
|
|||||||
18 | Falsetto - with Juergen | 15m | Crap | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Poorly protected, dodgy rock and not very good climbing.
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||||
7 | ★ Easy Lizard | 50m | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
12 11 | ★ Lizard Procrastination | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Varied and enjoyable. An easier variation for guiding is to go R around the corner on the second pitch, makes the whole route about 9.
|
|||||||
18 | ★ Riddled | 18m | ★ Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Despite appearances it's worthwhile! Not the greatest gear (or rock obviously) so don't make it your first 18.
|
|||||||
21 | ★★ English Ethics | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
I really like this one.
|
|||||||
21 | ★★ Cruel Consistency | 15m | Average | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
I find the rock and gear to be poor on this, I wouldn't lead this again.
|
|||||||
21 | Wrap-around Sunglasses | 15m, 1 | Don't Bother | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
24 | ★ Use Me and Abuse Me | 15m, 2 | Average | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
The bolts flex alarmingly
|
|||||||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Myself - with adam demmert | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Nov 2015 | |||
Nice climbing with all the hard moves in the top third. Easier than BM, might be 22?
|
|||||||
23 | ★★ Beside Myself | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.
|
|||||||
23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
24 23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor - with ben wiessner | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
Two red cams handy
|
|||||||
21 | ★★ Skydiver | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Great climb. Reachy at the top.
|
|||||||
25 | ★ Mixed Metaphor | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Toproped as, like all of Gordy's bolts it seems, they are non stainless and already rusted to crap.
|
|||||||
22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus (Spasticus Autisticus (Not Autisticus Spasticus)) | 17m, 3 | Average | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
I find this quite hard, and not that much fun. Others seem to like it.
|
|||||||
15 | ★ Retardation - with Wendy Eden | 20m | Average | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||
Ok for a bit then loses it. Quite hard at the start.
|
|||||||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Tricky and pumpy at the top
|