Routes in World for selected grade

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

Start up Saxicoline then sneak under and around the lip out onto the main face. Traverse out left along seam, then head straight up the right-hand set of bolts through fantastic climbing with some long moves on the head wall. This is a crag classic and must do at the grade.

The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Onions start, head R as for Tripe to 5th bolt, L into the flake and up. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find. Clint Inalee

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

Even better than Vanity Case? Fantastic sustained fingery climbing. Start as for Vanity Case for 4 bolts to ledge then the R line.

Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key.

Stephen Rawls

Start on big undercling, head straight out through roof on some small holds. Finish with a real mantle. Powerful, techy, steep and poopy - it's got it all.

Sit start on the lowest jug (same as for 'l'Homme Obu'). Go right to sloper then straight up to the triangle shaped crimp, lunge to break and traverse across, finishing up 'Business as Usual'.

Stephen Rawls

Oliver Chen

Crikey it's good. Which is better Path Of Yin or Eye Of The Tiger? Truly superb rock architecture, with fair dinkum good moves. Was a lot harder but then some creative thinking enabled the roof passage to be climbed with out too much strength, which produced an enormous increase in it's popularity! Incredibly steep, at least 15m overhung.

Start: Start at the back of the cave beneath the huge "eye" in the roof.

Begin off the big cheese Boulder right of LAMOP. The striking ceiling arete. Finish as for Dr Pepper

The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out.

Another Wave Wall classic. Was 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie.

Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.

Chris Beers

Liting Xu

Orlanda Peter

Fantastic climbing on solid rock with exceptional moves. Start at the same point as Taking Care of Business and head right onto a small shelf – slightly tricky. Then head directly up into the obvious feature, semi-dangerous clip (ground fall potential). This is followed by some tricky moves to a cruxy dead point and easier head wall.

There is a bolt under the lip over the right side to protect the start.

A visionary route by Frey Yule and a brilliant gift to Coolum crag – thank you Frey for all your great routes at the cave!

Start with hands on the lowest side-pulls (the right hand is below the lower horizontal seam right at the bottom of the vertical seam where it tapers off) and don't skip any!

See also: Full Metal Jacket, a V5 variant skipping the shallow right sidepull.

Starts just right of the dry bush. Follows the tufa and small break trending left to an anchor just below the small roof.

Sit start this ceiling classic, on the lip of the outside obvious bowl and blast your way into the cave. Finishing at the central big flake inside the top of the roof. Sharp, tensiony, thuggey goodness.

Daniel Razzino

Riley Kenna's channel!

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else. Leah

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Batman start and then up the flake as for 'Iron Mike' before busting out right through some of the finest face climbing Shipley has to offer.

One move wonder. Start matched from the circular scoop, as for 'J2', and traverse left and up.

Leah Dempsey

The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem.

Start on the opposing crimps, up past side pull to high flake.

http://vimeo.com/27677576

Sit start 1m right of Hollow Mountain Dreaming and go out right side of roof not using any holds of Hollow Mountain Dreaming for hands but ok for feet..

Oliver Chen

Also called 'the nothing'. V8 in the guide which depends on beta that goes out right before heading up the arete. If you stick purely to the arete you could probably add a grade.

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

1. [24] 32m

   Crank off cairn to the break, then traverse left for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopey ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up left from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse left to short arête and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).

2. [29] 40m

   This is why they rave about Taipan. Roof, trend right across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move left then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 30m off the last bolt.

This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'.

Kieran Pates

Slab, crimps to tufas, yum... Permanent draws

Extension of Arbolito. The extension goes into 5.13c, it's crimpy, steep, slopey and cruxy.

"Low Down Boogie (Eliminate)" with the 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' finish.

Oliver Chen

Start as for Unleash the Dancer Within and traverse L the whole way, topping out at Smoke and Mirrors.

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw

Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

Same start as Tsing Tao Beer.

Start as for IGWT on right side of orange blobby thing, then move left and up to crimps. Save some gas for the big move at the end.

Tyrone Clements

Stephen Rawls

白河（北京）第一条5.13级别的线路，2004年5月2日由赵凯、赵雷先后完成。

2m right of SITW , rebolted May 2017.

Mark McGivern

One of the easier problems, but quite good.

Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start.

Classic steep Nowra climbing. Don't pump out after the crux - it has been done!

Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

All titanium bolts. Share anchor with No Have.

Climb out on great looking rail. Named after Minki van der westhuizen, a famous South African bikini model

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Video

Landry Lushima

This variant finish to Velvet Love has turned out to be the most popular route on the wall. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy yourself! Jake

Immaculate rock meets extremely exposed position. Clip the first bolt of The Bends then head hard right, traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around arête and up a beautiful bright orange wall to a rest in mini cave. Reach out right to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heartbreak up the last little headwall to anchor.

Same start as for Lovers Tiff but from the big horn, continue straight out instead of right.

Phillip Booth | Peter Jeavons

Sit-start and climb up the overhang to the slot at the top of the feature. Great quality rock. An unusual style of climb for Mt Alex.

Start just R of the two wooden posts. Once was an aid route called 1914 (25M0). Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for Bare Essentials - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

Start as for "Apocalypse" with left hand on thr juggy undercling in the roof and right hand on a crimp at the lip. Head right to the start of "Jimmy's 5" & climb this. Ledge is in.

Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep! Mattia

Start from the scooped out area on the far side of the boulder on low slopers, hard start moves out right on crimps (You may need to clean the Blackberries as they are persistent). Many have started one block over for the sit-start, taking out the most strenuous moves of the climbs - see 'Phone Diddle'. Traverse out right and end on the jug for 1a/1b.

The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs.

A powerful start then traverses left into slapsickle. It will leave you pumped.

The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave.

Hard for the grade. Sustained, pumpy and powerful.

Neil

Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder.

Sit-start under the wave feature, on the RH side of the arete. Energy draining moves on pockets and slopes, lead up into the V5’s committing top out. The must do of Slab Land.

27/4/24 - The entire first hold came off, making the start much harder.

Sit start in the crack. Trend right from the crack. Rad sequence.

Andy

Optimus Prime's early exit. Bring your lock-off arms. Might be easier?

mattias braach-maksvytis Travis B Liam

Probably the best face climb on the Ridge. Powerful and delicate, requiring great body tension and with a demanding topout.

草叔日记-硬伤

Redpoint Video by 超然

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

Sit starts with lowest possible LH and RH pinch/undercling on the far left of the cave just in front of the tree. Straight up on some slopey features to finish on good flake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmlJrDgmUC0 - beta video @ 1.51min

The original full arete line.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct (Boogie pillar out for hands and feet) but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

Starting on the slopey rail. Span to the right and finish via right facing horn to jug, dyno right to jug or up left facing flake. All worthwhile.

Packs a punch for the grade and the length. Start as for Mr Carpet Burn but at the mid height crimp rail traverse left and finish up Fantastic Mr Fox. Be sure to climb straight up from the last bolt via the poor right hand three finger pocket (which has crumbled away a bit which probably changes things) and the left hand door knob (not to give you beta ) - this is the crux of Mr Universe. People have been known to circumvent this crux by going right into Mr Carpet Burn at the last bolt and to traverse back on the jugs, thus completing said circumvention - this is the "28" (ha ha) version called Mr Puniverse (see above).

Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face.

Sit start with crimps in the middle of the wall, then straight up via the slopey middle top out (the same top out as Percival the Feisty Mouse).

All titanium bolts.

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.

Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF.

SDS right at the back of the roof (If you think you are in the right spot keep crawling under), compress the fridge feature for 2m then out to a slopey top out. Contrived line - climbed as a compression, using the 'crack only' is considered it's own line out the cave.

Julz

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Going through the most horizontal part of Grande Grotta's roof. Two hard, bouldery sections.

L6, R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5

Classic Sissy toughie. Wait for a cold day. Many ways of doing it.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.