Routes in World for selected grade

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.

1. 15m (11) Up the blocky corner to big boulder choke.

2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor (30m).

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the pipe past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into Organ Pipes Gully to get off.

Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11, however do not top-rope directly through the anchor bolts. These anchors are getting noticeably worn through, as a result of such improper top-rope setups.

Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold.

A brilliant beginner's lead. Start at the obvious corner 3m R of EP. Up this line on excellent gear to the ledge. Rap chains are found here. Alternatively, you can keep going up the twin crack system at grade 15.

Start as for Revelations, Serpent, etc.

1. 26m (11) Climb steep right wall of cleft to large ledge.

2. 24m (11) Step up to smooth orange wall. Don't go straight up but step right and pull up steep arete. Up a few more metres then veer right and up right wall.

Blocky corner 3m left of TW. More popular as a rap line than a route, and probably rightly so.

Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner.

The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'.

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy. Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning against the cliff.

1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

On the left side of the arete. Plenty of bolts. Plenty of jugs. Good beginner lead climb.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to DBB shared with 'Mantlit'.

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

2. (11) Up the crack

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 RBs. New anchor over lip. Rebolted 2014.

Start left of Kaboomba Brothers. Bouldery start to pleasant rambling. Lots of bolts. Stick clip the 2nd bolt if you’re at the grade.

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully.

The obvious crack - good intro to jamming

Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of The Archbishop.

1. 27m (11) Hard, avoidable, start up seam and through small bulge at 5 metres to ledge. Veer left to right-facing corner. A tricky move into corner then up to ledge. Rap chains.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall above.

Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it.

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

Start at the painted initial 'A'.

1. 27m (10) Follow crack to V-corner and bridge up this (placing gear in some loose blocks) to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 3 bolts to the chains.

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead.

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

Start 1m left of E. The start was previously described as "ungradeable" and the whole pitch is more like 15.

1. 8m (11) Crack to ledge with new DRBB directly above. Original route continues 5m up and right across grey slabs to R side of cave.

2. 21m (11) Corner to cave, left up to big cave. Traverse right (old BR) and up to ledge.

3. 21m (11) Left along ledge, up small black wall into gully filled with dead trees and dirt.

4. 23m (11) Up.

Just left of the two 17s. Up to the first RB, on good jugs, crux is getting past this, then easy moves to the chains.

Disgusting leading up a crappy line to an even more grunty body chimney! Numerous holds and chock stones have fallen out of this route over the years, and the route has been reduced from one of class to that of complete infamy. Belay from MP chains.

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs. (Can start on right and climb up to 2nd bolt, easier but less pro).

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

A pure old school trad classic.

Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.

1. Block, around overlap, up wall to ledge. Stroll left to big corner.

2. Up, just right of corner for adequate protection (including new FH next to mild steel heritage bolt and plate); middle below block for a few pieces; or right for not much. Double bolt and chain belay.

Rap or walk off right. P2 can be done by itself.

Start 3m left of Little Miss Sunshine at the RB

Start at blunt arete with line of RBs about 10m L of 'Acumen'.

Fun, well-protected beginner lead. Climb up slabby L-tending arete past 7 RBs to DBB.

Links in der Ostwand schrofige Schlucht, oben linksh., zu Sandband (Blockschlinge). Auf diesen 15m nach rechts (Blockschlinge + 4.AÖ). Kamin im Winkel bzw. dessen re. Kaminkante (PORZELLANKANTE) zu Abs. (links NR). Rechts schräge Kamine zu Abs. (1.R des KRIPPENER WEGES). Rechts seichte Rinne hoch, nach wenigen Metern Umstieg in rechte Rinne u. diese zu Verklüftung (rechts auf kl. Pfeiler Nachholöse). In der Kluft zur Schusterplakette u. Kamin absteigen. (Oberhalb des Kamingrunds Stand an Knotenschlingen. Nicht an der dünnwandigen SU!!) Rechts kurzen engen Kamin zum unteren Reitgrat, diesen bis zum zum Ende u. links überdachte Wandstufe zu gr. Abs. (Schlinge). Dahinter zu Kamin und linksgeneigte Rippe (oberer Reitgrat) z.G.

Ausführliche Wegbeschreibung. Topo.

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

"There's a place in France where the naked ladies dance, there's a hole in the wall where you put your..." Santa Claus is coming down this chimney to find out who's naughty or nice.... a modern classic or an aquired taste, there's something for everyone in Rod Boner's glory hole. Careful of loose rock at the top of the chimney, there is no where for your belayer to run if you dislodge one. The horrific glue drips in the back of the chimney are from an attempt to stabilise the chockstone at the top. Take care.

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right.

Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.)

A large rock has fallen from midway up the route. The remaining rock is not secure and avoiding it bumps up the difficulty. Still not 5.8 though

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors.

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney.

Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

The nice square cut corner, above the fixed rope. A great beginner trad lead - take med-large cams. Best to belay/lower off anchor on Uncle Amy on the right - otherwise top out onto loose ledge and belay off single RB and tree way back.

Left arete of Bernutts block.

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

2. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

3. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

4. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. Take care, the ledge is covered in loose rock which will rocket down the chimney if released. From the belay ledge scramble down and right some 30m along Spooky Ledge to locate the chains at the top of p3 of Remains of the Day. From there, 2 x30m and 1 x 20m gets you to the deck. Alternatively you can bush bash up and right from Spooky ledge to meet Caves Route at the Big Scrub above Cave 2

An obvious corner crack system that is visible from the car park and 3m R of Quartz route.

1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

2. 15m (9) Move left under overhangs to a sharp, undercut flake. Up the flake to ledge.

3. 30m (10) Either scramble up to the right or, from left side of large, scrubby ledge an undercut start leads to shallow, right-facing corner.

Rechts in der Südseite auf Absatz, dann rechts der Rippe folgen. An derem Ende über Reibungswand zum Gipfelaufbau.

Way of Senior Insurance Salesmen? This route provides access to the ledge from where the next three routes begin.

Starts a few meters (yards) right of Easy, up an easy right angling-corner ramp. Step right onto a small ledge, then up crack systems towards a small roof; exit on the left and finish up the crack.

Fantastic first lead! Well protected fun slabbing. Starts 7m right of Sticky Date Sunrise (if standing at cliff base). Tricky opening moves, then easily up the slab. Double BR top anchor.

Start at a large lone boulder and follow the left crack all the way to the top.

A brilliant first lead or easy solo. A popular way to get reception.

22m R of Footling Precipitation. Up onto the flake then up past 3FH to a DB and rings. Lower off.

Start 3m L of Surfactant and be careful with the loose blocks.

Start: 2 Pitches.Starts on ground level. Crack to ledge. Crack.

Easy slab, to be climbed a bit diagonally to the left. Harder than it seems at a first glance.

Easy line central through the obvious ramp. Quite polished due to countless ascents.

Takes in some wonderful airy positions. The first pitch is excellent and the second and third pitches, though not in the same class, aren't bad.

Start: Starts in a little bay in the middle of the wall (initialled).

1. 40m (11) Climb straight up the buttress, the angle easing with height. Belay level with a rightward leading horizontal traverse.

2. 45m (10) Traverse 6m right to a delectable crack which leads up to the overhang. Continue up the line, into and up a small chimney.

3. 15m (-) The chimney to the top.

Slab climbing to the right of Power over Mind. The bolts are spaced near the ground - not a first climb for a beginner leader.

Keep moving up and right and you will come to a black slab with a low angle scramble to your left. Cheeky start to easy stance and BR. Thought provoking crux and next BR to gain quartz flake. Easily up from here. Popular first lead. Chain lower off.

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch).