Routes in World for selected grade

A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. DRBB.

Has become a bit of a classic. 8 ring bolts. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the 2nd or 3rd bolt and last bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

Fantastic climb. Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top. Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam.

1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

Corner 2m left of SSCC1. Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

The right route

Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you don't need to use any of it.

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock. With modern gear it is not nearly the scare fest it used to be. Start at the gorgeous water streak up the middle of the face that commences off the slight ledge just above the path.

1. 30m (15) Climb to the ledge. Marginal gear.

2. 30m (16) The best pitch. Amazing climbing on incredible rock. Blast straight up the wall heading for the tree ledge.

3. 30m (14) A wandering pitch, starting from the left hand end of the ledge, and heading up and left.

Another nice warm up for Duck Wall.

Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic

Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete.

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner. Rappel down from DBB directly above the route.

The best 16 at the crag. Start up the chimney with technical bridging to a rest on the top of the semi-detached pillar. Step onto the R face and follow the line up to the top. Awesome climbing, bombproof gear and brilliant moves! Rap down DBB above Elastic RURP to avoid getting ropes stuck.

Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB.

Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to double U-bolt belay.

Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

Up past difficult mantle then up right to break. Traverse right to edge of arete then up to top passing several carrots on the way. Belay just below top out on stainless carrots. Belay leader from top belay to rap chains for Angular Crack.

Re-bolted with stainless glue in carrots in 2016.

Direct start is 24.

Start: Thin crack 6m left of 'The Bells of Rhymney',

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.

1. 25m (14) Sustained climbing up the thin cracks to the big cave.

2. 25m (16) Move towards the front of the buttress and climb a short, difficult corner. Continue easily.

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

One of the best easy routes here.

Upgraded from 15 when a block came off. There's another still there at about 6m which might go someday so don't put your gear behind it.

Up the broken corner 3m R of 'Hadrian'.

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

The start is easier if you are tall. Climb boldly up the front of the wide crack to avoid the thrutch. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!? Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

Easy but reachy. Up to ledge , hard move then R to arete and jugs and L to anchor. There is a harder variant moving left to the centre of the wall clipping one bolt. 19?

Anchors replaced 2017, then after breaking biners, replaced again 2020.

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route.

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Right of IOEP. Shared start with Ole Biscuit Barrel, then follow the bolts left to the low anchors.

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

Up layaway arete.

Jug haul up past rings. Start: right side of buttress 30m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Now has loweroffs.

Undercut start on arete past 5 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'. Apparently this has grown a bolt left of the start... which was certainly not discussed with the first ascentionist, but it probaby does explain why so many people describe this as soft... the line is actually via overhung start direct up the arete.

A fun route with some good exposure and good photo opportunities. Ring bolts. Take about 10 draws.

1. 16m (14) Climb up to the set of double rings.

2. 20m (16) Traverse left to the airy arete and up to double rings on the ledge on the left of the cave (not the ones 2m further left). Don't clip the brown bolts halfway along the traverse, they belong to Humpback Sushi Roll.

3. 14m (12) Up and R around the arete onto the face. There are double rings at the top for belaying.

Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top.

Starts 2m left of My Brothers Keeper. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBK.

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

Steep climbing on big jugs. Nice, easy warm up.

Follow the ring bolts up to the prow up high. Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish.

Up over bulge on big holds.

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Great climbing, wanders a bit. Reachy. 1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise".

The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19.

Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise".

Rap chains.

Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off.

Classic roof traverse above great space

Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A

1. 16m (14) Thrutch up chossy corner then up and left to belay at bottom of offwidth. Trad and manky carrot belay.

2. 24m (16) What you're here for. Up offwidth in left corner, carrot at top then traverse into space. Watch your helmet at the squeeze. Up at chimney, belay there on gear or at two carrots on ledge outside. Can abseil here with a 60m.

3. 10m (14) Up and crank over side of offwidth, tree belay

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab.

Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.

Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.

1. 35m 12 FHs to rap station (DBB).

2. 35m 11 FHs to rap station (Ring and chain). Use long draws to minimise drag coming under and around the rooflet

Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here. Alternatively, head up 3m from P2 anchors to bushy ledge and walk left to join up with the Caves Route.

Start 2m L of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline, zig-zaging a bit, clipping 4 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 3m L of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "SE".

Follow 4 RBs, trending slightly right, to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Right of Snooze. Pull over two bulges and onto the crack and slab. Romp up the nice looking orange rock to the anchors shared with Snooze. The route starts just left of the bush 2m up, watch the tree when lowering!!

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

A one move special, and a soft touch at the grade. Start at the obvious crack in the corner R of Humility. Up this with excellent protection to a ledge. Bumble easily to the top as for PA. Bolted belay anchor.

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb!

A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 RBs lead to a pumpy and steep finish, mantle then a top belay.

Start: 5m L of LFTS.

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl.

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Crack at the top takes a cam around Camalot #2 size if you'd like to avoid the very slightly runout finish. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the dead tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 35m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber. You can rap off with one 80m rope, otherwise join two ropes, or scramble another 5 meters to the summit and walk off.

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth! Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off.

The obvious line up the scoops immediately above the trad grade 10 corner at path level. 12m as a sport route from the scramble onto block, about 20m from path level including easy corner (no bolts till ledge). Plenty of bolts on headwall and good climbing.

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

Protection: Cams: BD #.4, #.5, #.75 x 2, #1, #2, 1 carrot

Anchors: ring bolts with shackles

Sit start on the big juggy hole and climb straight up the wall on a series of jugs to a tricky top out. Top out is not too bad if you suss out the top holds before embarking (try not to get caught on the tree when topping out).

3m right of LL. Up through the cave and follow cracks/ledges

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings 7-9 are for top anchor.

Start: 3m left of Frolic. DRBB set back and out of sight.

Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the bolts up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor.

Right arête starting off ledge right of Maleficent. Starts at double ring belay bolts. Passes thru a DBB halfway so can be treated as single pitch or a two pitch multi for those learning the ropes.

Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 rings. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed.

Up past obvious hole in the wall. Originally done on gear, now bolted with carrots (large heads).

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts.

Start 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Climb straight up to below the overhanging block clipping 2 RBs visible from the base. Clip the 3rd RB on the block then climb up the block on its L side (crux). Once over the block anchor is hiding over the lip. . Rebolted 2014.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.