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Ascents in Blue Mountains as Onsight by Roger Austin

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Showing all 54 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 10th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall
21 Castaway - with Hamish Kerr Sport 65m Very Good
Led the 3rd pitch, which felt quite pumpy and was fun enough bar the grovelling dirt mantleshelf finish. The first pitch had a hard, reachy crux - harder than any move on Subliminal - although perhaps we were just beefed at the end of a 37-degree day. Hamish took it into his head to combine pitches one and two - don't go there. Worthwhile, but with more than its fair share of crap bits for a route on such a good wall.

 
23 Subliminal - with Hamish Kerr Sport 92m, 33 Classic
Led the main pitch. Excellent, fun climbing but can't quite rate it as Mega-Classic because of the rather arbitrary first pitch and because it has just a bit too much of that boulder-problems-between-ledges style which can get rather tiresome. The belays and pitch combinations around here could do with a bit of rationalisation. Doing a 70m pitch from the Central (Castaway) belay, as recommended by others, makes good sense - those with shorter ropes can take the Sojourn belay option and still need do only one more pitch to the top. The Subliminal first pitch is a bit of a giggle but the only hard bit would make a good alternate start to Castaway.

 
Fri 10th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Iliad Buttress
16 The Iliad - with Hamish Kerr Trad 87m Classic
Very enjoyable outing, particularly via the Cynics United first pitch. Nicely sustained with a couple of intimidating-but-actually-ok sections at the start of the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Led the 1st and 3/4th pitches.

 
Mon 28th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
19 Powerbra Rangers - with Blue Mountains Orangutan Sport 23m, 8 Very Good
Nicely sustained. Harder than Nice Vice Baby. Good second warm-up.

 
Sun 27th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Thrustblock Area
23 The Mind Boggles - with Blue Mountains Orangutan Sport 40m, 18 Classic
Lots and lots of thought-provoking quality climbing. I found the initial traverse a bit turf and it was pretty intense for the rest of the first 'pitch', easing to a gentle stroll before an exciting and entertaining finale.

 
Sun 27th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass La La Land Area
23 Legoland - with Blue Mountains Orangutan Sport 25m, 9 Very Good
More like leg'o'lamb today - a bit hot and greasy but full of tasty goodness.

 
Sun 27th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
19 20 Nice Vice Baby - with Blue Mountains Orangutan Sport 20m, 9 Good
An ideal warm-up

 
Sat 5th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside
25 The Reality Dysfunction - with Andrew Stevenson Sport 20m, 12 Mega Classic
Simply awesome. Milked the kneebar and handjam rests until they squeaked and managed to keep it together for the final few lunges to the anchors. Now I feel inspired to try The Way of All Flesh again

 
Sat 5th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall
24 Pluck-a-Duck - with Andrew Stevenson Sport 22m, 10 Classic
Mantle? What mantle? Lots of other good climbing - the easy bit; the intense bit; the pumpy bit; the mantle-that-wasn't.

 
22 Daffy - with Andrew Stevenson Sport 20m Very Good
Varied and fun. Only the large ledge below the headwall prevents it being a Classic.

 
Sat 5th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
21 Jingle Bells - with Andrew Stevenson Sport 15m Good
A bit brutal for a warm-up.

 
Sun 25th Sep 2016 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area
21 20 Crow - with Hamish Kerr Sport 15m, 5 Good
I thought this was very worthwhile. Thin to start and sustained all the way up. Would have been "bold old skool 80's climbing" on carrots but speaking as a timid old skool 80's climber I felt pretty happy with 7 shiny ring bolts.

 
Sat 24th Sep 2016 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area
21 Red Robbin Direct Start - with Matt Short, jonas Mixed trad 15m, 4 Good
Fun. Bolts and wire to lower off.

 
19 Zipper - with Matt Short Mixed trad 25m, 5 Very Good
Good, fingery climbing up a slightly eliminate line. Skipped the higher carrots in favour of a few of Matt's shiny new hexes to keep it real

 
Sun 17th Apr 2016 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall
21 Friendly Fire - with Mark Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
Nicely sustained with some interesting holds.

 
Sat 16th Apr 2016 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave
23 24 A Most Profligate Sinner - with Mark Sport 18m Very Good
Thought provoking. Arrived on the lip of the roof in a kneeling position which worked surprisingly well. Not 24 though.

 
Sun 28th Feb 2016 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Jean Genie Area
24 Goosebumps - with thomas Sport 10m, 4 Very Good
Crimpy and powerful, then just powerful.Clipped the first bolt on lead for added value.

 
Sat 27th Feb 2016 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall
24 Jaqueline Hyde - with Siderunner Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
25 Rubber Lover - with Blue Mountains Orangutan Sport 20m, 5 Classic
Pretty pleased with this.

 
Sun 6th Dec 2015 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Masterplan Area
23 Royal Doulton - with Blue Mountains Orangutan Sport 15m Very Good
Straightforward but fun.

 
Sat 5th Dec 2015 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Masterplan Area
20 Marooned - with Blue Mountains Orangutan Sport 12m Good
A bit stiff for a warm up.

 
Sat 13th Jun 2015 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps
23 Gentlemens Drag (Gentleman's Drag) - with Niko Eltarenko Trad 28m Mega Classic
Awesome end to a great day. Been wanting to do this for years. Never felt close to getting pumped. The joys of a gritstone apprenticeship.

 
25 Toyland Direct - with Niko Eltarenko Sport 30m Classic
Pretty stoked to onsight this classic. It felt a bit of a gift for 25 but then (a) the conditions were absolutely perfect and (b) every hold was neatly outlined in white. Similar in style, quality and grade to Life of Riley.

 
Sat 30th May 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall
23 Golliwog Grades (Golliwog Grading) Sport 25m, 13 Good
Some good climbing. Final move slightly pointless but fun.

 
Sun 24th May 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall
21 Girly Germs Sport 15m Good
Not an ideal warm up as the hard bit is low down.

 
Sat 9th May 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Pulpit Rock Bellbird Wall area
21 YAKs in Space - with Mike Arrell Sport 16m Classic
Must have missed something because the Rose move on a two finger pocket between bolts 1 and 2 felt as hard as anything on the Next Doctor. Great position - particularly the hanging belay at the top!

 
Sat 7th Feb 2015 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
21 Flash Flood - with Matt Short Sport 18m, 7 Good
Good fun. More like 21 with some stiff moves past the underling.

 
Sat 7th Feb 2015 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Choc Chip Chai Sector
19 20 Choc Chip Chai - with Matt Short Sport 15m, 7 Good
Fun warmup.

 
Sat 24th Jan 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
23 Dragon's Egg - with Sean Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Interesting climbing with a tricky crux sequence with clip mid crux. It would be good to clear up the confusion between this and Milo as there is clearly only one line with two finishes, this being the left. Right looks quite a bit easier but not on rings.

 
Sat 10th Jan 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab
19 Country Special - with Danny Sport 18m Good
Sat 6th Dec 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Centennial Trev Arch area (the caverns) The Arch walls
22 Fishing - with Hamish Sport 12m, 5 Good
Enjoyed the interesting moves and lack of sharp, snappy holds. Balancy yet still tiring.

 
Sat 6th Dec 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Centennial Trev Arch area (the caverns) Stockholm Wall
22 Organised - with Hamish Sport 15m Average
Sat 29th Nov 2014 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge
23 You Crazy Diamond - with Andy Sport 26m, 9 Classic
Sustained and thought-provoking right to the top.

 
24 25 Diamond Jack - with Andy Sport 60m Very Good
Climbed as a warm-up in mistake for The Jewel Thief. Tough for 21 but an absolute steal for 25.

 
Sat 15th Nov 2014 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Yesterday's Groove Area
23 Mild Peril - with Andy
1
2
3
4
Sport 110m Very Good
Lots of good climbing in a great location. Lead P1 and P3. Long and pumpy P2. Fingery and balancy on P3 with an unlikely single-leg-squat manoeuvre in the middle.

 
Fri 5th Sep 2014 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall
24 Pallets of Pies Sport 12m, 4 Good
Jug, jug, jug, hmm, throw, jug, jug

 
Sat 24th May 2014 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
21 Like a Cut Snake - with Sean Sport 35m Classic
Fantastic exposure on the second pitch and plenty of good rock and climbing. Very photogenic (from the top, opposite the route).

 
25 The Life of Riley - with Gavin Sport 35m Classic
Great moves and great location. Looked very blank in parts but its all there and not hard for the grade.

 
Sun 18th May 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall
22 Hunky Dory - with Dave Adams Sport 20m Average
21 22 Hang onto Yourself - with Jess Sport 20m Good
Sun 4th May 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side
21 20 Satanic Nuns - with various Rockies Sport 15m Good
Cruxy start and quite sustained thereafter. Fun.

 
Sat 19th Apr 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave
25 George, King of the Jungle - with Roger B Sport 20m Very Good
Fun dynos. Finished on the lower anchors which is a bit of a cop-out but my oomph was all used up.

 
Sat 19th Apr 2014 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall
24 Holy Leaping Shortarses, Batman - with Roger B Sport 15m, 7 Classic
Classic. Be sure to pick the correct line at the start. Almost blew it trying to find decent finishing holds while dangling like a sloth at the lip.

 
2012 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side
23 Mr Stagger Lee Sport 15m Very Good
A cleaner and more direct start to Libby the Lick. Probably better and not appreciably easier than that route.

 
Sun 7th May 2006 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Classic
Sun 30th Apr 2006 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall
19 Jack High Sport 20m Good
Sun 30th Apr 2006 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Rhum Dhu
19 Dirty Rotten Pig Sport 130m Very Good
A fine adventure. The rock is pretty good, on the whole.

 
Sat 29th Apr 2006 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
17 Fire Bug Trad 63m Very Good
18 Gold Star Trad 58m Very Good
Sat 29th Apr 2006 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
22 The Girl in the Mirror Mixed trad 45m, 5 Very Good
Sat 29th Apr 2006 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully
12 The Eyrie Mixed trad 45m, 3 Classic
Wed 1st Mar 2006 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully
21 Pig Iron Slaughter Sport 45m Very Good
2006 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Spoilt Brats Wall
21 Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks Mixed trad 57m, 10 Very Good
2005 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area
21 The Janicepts Trad 27m Mega Classic
A must for any visiting gritstone climber

 

Showing all 54 ascents.

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