Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside CDS-XCR North Almost A File | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Daenerys' Dragons
As for Daenerys continuing into and up Almost a File. | 9m | |||
V3 | ★★★ The Tower Arete
Climb left of Almost a File utilising it as an arete, airy cool moves! | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ The Tower
Direct up bulge left side of buttress via jugs and a potentially nasty landing. | 3m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside CDS-XCR North Cob Boulder | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ Cob Rock Bulge
Up Cob Rock, bridge over to base of Short Splitter traversing the base of slab left into and up Bulgy Left. | 11m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Cob Rock Bulge Left
As for Cob Rock Bulge finishing via Bulgy Left. | 13m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Cornfield
Start up Cob of Cornfield finish as for Cob Rock Bulge. | 11m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Cornfield LHV
As for Cornfield finishing via Bulgy Left. | 13m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ Over the Cornfield
As for Cornfield except traverse via a detour up and over the splitter! | 15m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ Over the Cornfield LHV
As for Over the Cornfield finishing via Bulgy Left. | 17m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside CDS-XCR South The Apricot | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ The Apricot's Arete
Far left, gain four points of contact via arete and small crimp before popping for top, nice finish too. Fraction morpho, stay off block on left. | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Arete The Apricot Indirect Sit
Start as for The Apricot Indirect Sit finishing via Arete The Apricot. | 5m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Arete The Apricot Flake Sit
Start as for The Apricot Flake Sit finishing via Arete The Apricot. | 7m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pip
Start on upper shelf moving left around top stone of bloc down into and finishing via Traverse. | 8m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Traverse the Crackvar
Climb Traverse finishing via the Flake Crackvar. | 8m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ Traverse The Apricot
Climb Traverse and continue left to finish via Apricot Indirect, 60 secs max at the step rest. | 9m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ Pipvar
Climb Pip finishing via the Crackvar ramp. | 11m | |||
V3/4 | ★★ Pip LR
Start on step at centre of flake crack moving left to right via Pip. | 8m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside XR Sector Tree Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Gimme
Direct up the steepest section of the prow. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Honkfo'shat! 3
Start as for The Real Warm Up moving left from the ramp to finish as for Honkfo'shat! 2. | 5m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside Flat Earth Front | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ Fr3.2
Sit start to the offwidth. | 4m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside DR DR1 | |||||
V3/4 | ★★★ Wonton Soup
Start up Wonton onto slab then drop back down onto detached shelf traversing right into and up The DR One. | 8m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ The DR1
Sit start to DR1.12 left hand base of seam, right hand on undercling. | 3m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ The DR One
Sit start to DR1.12 left hand base of seam, right hand on undercling. | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Kokomo
Stand start from ground as for DR1.12 trending right via mid level traverse into and up Black Jack. | 4m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside DR Flowers Boulder | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ By the Capstone
Start as for Wildflowers continuing right to finish via Capstone. | 9m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside DR Far Boulder | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ Hot Foot Panda'
Sit start to Sheet'/CPHD. | 5m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Broopy Crimpy
Climb as for Broopy finish via Crimpy. | 5m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside DR Easter Egg Escarpment EEE | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Right Arete/Slab Sit B
| 3m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside DR East-West Buttress Little Mordor | |||||
V2/3 | ★★ Ramp of Arete
Crouch start as for Ramp Arete traversing the high ramp into and up Prow Arete. | 3m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Eastside DR Bloomed Bloc | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ Blunt Arete Sit B
| 3m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area QMS Juggy Boulder | |||||
V2/3 | ★★ The Juggy
Sit start sans left low slab for feet. | 2m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area QMS Ultimate Shot | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ Ultimate Left
Start feet either side of protruding drill seam to gain slab finishing as for Left Side. | 4m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Left the Arete
Start as ft. Or Ultimate Left traversing right and up via right arete. | 5m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ QMS Arete
West face of bloc, climb and exit on right, superb. | 4m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area QMS Gravestone Boulder | |||||
V2/3 | ★★ Armistice
Start from upper ditch between Shothole Arete and No Shothole Slab to gain the side boulder via the shothole before moving right into and uo Drill Seam Arete. | 5m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Poppy Field
Start as for Shothole Arete finish as for Armistice. | 7m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Poppy Fields
Start as for Shothole Arete Eliminate finish as for Armistice. | 7m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Drill Seam Traverse
Start as for No Shothole Slab finish as for Armistice. | 5m | |||
Northern Tablelands Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area QMS Corner Boulder | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ CB Ramp
Crouch start at base of Left Arete both hands matched on flat jug moving right into a lovely crux over an awkwardish landing before topping out via Right Arete. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★★ CB Ramp Ext
Climb as for CB Ramp continuing around corner to ascend via Steep Slab. | 5m | |||
Northern Tablelands Glen Innes and surrounds One Lost Chossy Boi | |||||
V3 | ★★ Xanthoparmelia Arboretum
This choss magnet will probably be saturated in lichen and moss, don't fight mother nature, just embrace it. There is a distinct lack of good feet after the crux which is getting established on the wall to start with. A good ol' fashioned pistol squat should do the trick though. FA: Aidan..., 18 Feb 2020 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | Carpe Diem - "It's like Latin for YOLO"
Stand start on with feet on fallen flake in grass matched on good crimps. Work up in search of a shallow 2 finger pocket hidden in the moss. The hollow flake top will probably pop off soon enough solidifying a V3 grading. FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020 | 4m | |||
Northern Tablelands Glen Innes and surrounds Grey boulders | |||||
V3 | ★★ Smart Cities
| 3m | |||
Northern Tablelands Fernside (near Mount Mitchell) Monkey Magic Raspberry Ferns | |||||
V3 | ★★★ RF Rubicon
Up the overhanging groove via cool moves on good holds to a small shelf, up and rightish to finish. | 5m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ RF Karate
Climb the right arete of NE vertical face right of RF No Turkeys! Summit main bloc for the tick. | 7m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ RF Karate Kid
Sit start to RF Karate from slightly right, one of the best. | 8m | |||
V3 | ★★★ RF Rocky
Start as for RF Karate moving left at the ledge to mantle the left arete of the NE vertical face, summit main bloc for the tick. | 7m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ RF Delicatesco!
Sit start and climb as for RF Karate Kid to gain the ledge, then moving left into and up No Turkeys! | 8m | |||
V3 | ★★★ RF Flowstone (Direct)
Direct up the bulge between RF Indirect and RF Rubicon via positive holds from standing, straight up to finish. | 5m | |||
Northern Tablelands Fernside (near Mount Mitchell) Monkey Magic Bo'g | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Oxymoron.
Extension to Demise of the Narcissists from the flake system in middle of SE aspect via left traverse of the horizontal crack, great technical climbing. | 13m | |||
Northern Tablelands Fernside (near Mount Mitchell) Monkey Magic The Prophets | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ The Prophets
Stand/crouch far left of Western face/wall left foot on low shelf and left hand on juggy sidepull moving right to traverse the lip and top out via mantle into and up the juggy groove just left of the headstone. | 7m | |||
Northern Tablelands Telecom Gwydir | |||||
V2/3 | ★★★ Dial of the Gwydir(Descent)
Up the slabby crack NE aspect to the break then move right(crux) and around to summit the bloc. | 7m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Dial of the Gwydir(LHV)
Climb left of the slabby crack utilising it as an arete to gain the high left vertical crack before moving right to finish as for Dial of the Gwydir. | 7m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Paws of the Gwydir
Up the NE slab right of Dial of the Gwydir via the thin seam to the break then right and up to finish. | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Jack Frost
Start as for Paws of the Gwydir moving right to finish via the NE arete. | 6m | |||
Central Coast The Entrance Baths | |||||
V3 | ★ Gosford Skirt
4 metres left of the iron spike, sit start near corner. Hands and feet must remain on top of roof, exiting right near the metal post. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Iron Rod
2m right of iron bollard is a large 2 handed pocket. Start with straight arm hang from here, feet up above the natural brown line - on steep ground only. Then it's one contrived move to glory. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Annus Horribilis
5m left of sign post. Sit start with hands on nice big sloper. Straight up, taking care that little chicken heads don't break! | ||||
Central Coast Berrys Head Warm Up Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Sand In My Pocket
Sit start at the foot ledge then head up and left a bit past the round pocket to OK topout FA: Jason Smith, 11 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
Central Coast Berrys Head Missed Opportunity Block | |||||
V3 | ★ The alcove
Sit start at arete left of SC. Up into alcove then exit left. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Slopers
The blunt arete down hill of easy arete. Start with right hand in 2 finger pocket and up to slippery top out | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Seize the day
Start at obvious good crimp rail, straight up to a couple of crimps then tricky mantle on sloper. FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | ||||
Central Coast Berrys Head Ben's Backyard | |||||
V3 | ★★ Cupcake
Sit start on the good hold then straight up. Only feet on the ramp out left. FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Indi
The cluster of smaller free-standing boulders in front of ABNPOC. Sit start at the crack. Up then reach left to the arete and up. FA: Jason Smith, 18 Sep 2021 | ||||
Central Coast Mossy forest Playdoh bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Honey im home
Sit start matched on sidepull inside the cavelet. Back wall of cave is out for feet after start. Move up and out to slopey pockets and across to right arete using fun heel hooks. Using right arete and thin incut slot, move directly up to undercling pocket then top out.. super fun line FA: Murray Taylor | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Devils tombstone
Start with left hand on arete and right hand down low on undercling edge. Move up to right hand sidepull pocket on the face and use good holds left in the break to gain the lip. Tricky mantle FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | |||
Central Coast Forresters Beach | |||||
V3 | ★★ I am into champagne
Start just under boulder on two jugs facing out. Topout sketchy - jump off instead. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Staring At The Sea
Sit Start all the way down on the right side arete and traverse left to join Staring At The Sea Direct. FA: Maurício Chino, 25 Feb 2023 | 6m | |||
Central Coast West Gosford Amphitheatre | |||||
22 | ★ Suffering Sabotage
Undercut scoop with long move to get onto slab. DBB shared with Sabbatical FA: Tim Haasnoot | 7m, 3 | |||
Central Coast West Gosford Fantasy Lane Area | |||||
22 | ★★ The Penthouse
The route LEFT of the cave with good steep moves down low and a tricky slab move up high. Bolt plates needed. Head up into lower cave and clip first bolt out left and left out cave and up to single U bolt anchor. 3 carrots on top of route if you need to clean it and can't get to anchor. FA: Jason Piper | 20m, 6 | |||
Central Coast West Gosford Choc a Block Choc Rock | |||||
23 | ★ ??2
2m right of gully. Boulder problem start and straight up to bulge, slightly right then balancy move to topout. 3 U-Bolts. FA: Jason Piper | 8m | |||
Central Coast West Gosford Pimp Boulder | |||||
23 | ★ ? Flake
FA: Jason Piper | 8m | |||
Central Coast West Gosford Rock Soldiers Arete | |||||
23 | Getting Over It
1 Fixed hanger then 2 carrots. Start on L side of nose, then move R onto nose for easy arête climbing | 9m, 3 | |||
23 | Solumn Column
Start R side of nose at fixed hanger. Up passed carrot and L to join Getting Over it at 3rd bolt (carrot), and up. | 9m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Getting On with It
Starts right of undercut, straight up | 10m | |||
Central Coast West Gosford Little Orange Over hang | |||||
23 | ★★ I Luv Lucy Show
Beautiful arête with very solid rock starting off boulder on top of mini shelf. Mixture of RBs and FHs. Resistance climbing. | 9m | |||
23 | ★★ Radio Wisdom
Start at the left of the cave, tough first move then traverse out right past 3 more bolts to finish at top of cliff at 1 U bolt. FA: Jason Piper | 18m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★★ Jace In Space
| 12m | |||
23 | ★ A Trace Of Jace
| 11m | |||
Central Coast West Gosford Sunshine Boulders | |||||
23 | ★ Hudsons Whores
| 4m | |||
Central Coast West Gosford House Of Praise | |||||
22 | ★ Holy Cow
10mts R of Christian Soldier. Does not look much but worth the effort. Interesting moves above the top bulge. Lower off anchors Set: paul riviere FFA: paul riviere FA: paul riviere, 2007 | 10m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Pearly Gates
Start same as Daily Bread and straight up the L leaning crack. 2 U-bolts then cams to the top. Lower offs Set: paul riviere FFA: paul riviere FA: Paul Riviere, 2007 | 12m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Eternity
Starts at overhand 3 R of Pearly Gates. Move L and follow U-bolts to interesting top move Set: Paul Riviere FA: Paul Riviere, 2007 | 12m, 6 | |||
Central Coast Apex boulders Apex bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Predator
Start matched as for rotary club,no feet on lower rock, come out through good edges then bust out right to sidepull, then up to sloper on the lip and climb up through sidepulls and edges in the break FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
Central Coast Apex boulders Lilly boulder | |||||
V2/3 | ★★ Adders Tongue
Sit/crouch start with L/H on undercling and R/H on incut sloper. Hard first move into sloped edge on the right then make your way left to top out around the left side of the feature. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
Central Coast Apex boulders Toad bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Toadstool
Sit start R/H on sidepull L/H on edge, bust up left to slopey edge on lip then make your way up the slopey bulge FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Amphibian
Start matched on slopey rail at the far left of bloc,traverse the slopey edges into toadstool and finish as this problem FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | |||
Central Coast Apex boulders Gem stone | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Uncut gems
Sit start matched on edge, move up R/H to sharp sloper crimp then up to crimp slot, then use the R/H gaston edge before topping out. The flat rail in the break is not in, must top out to the right of break. FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | |||
Central Coast Popran | |||||
23 | ★ The knights of Ni
Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade. FA: Vanessa Wills | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Right ward route ? name
Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right. FA: paul riviere? | 25m | |||
22 | ★★ Vertical Python
The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts. FA: 2004 | 24m | |||
22 | ★★ Snake Eyes
Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top. FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2006 | 24m, 8 | |||
22 | ★ Smoke me a kipper
3 pitch Odyssey. Pitch 1: 15m grade 10 easy climbing to good belay. pitch 2 15m grade 15 traverse (very 'airy') to chain. Pitch 3, LH 2 finger pocket and RH slot, up headwall LH smooth sloper, then to 2 finger pocket (crux) match to RH 2 finger pocket. Big LH move to Jug, then techo jug moves to desperate top out finished with customary unclip and launch into thin air! FA: Chris Fox | 40m | |||
Central Coast Rumbalara boulders Big Mumas House | |||||
V3 | ★★ The only way out
Sit start matched on the prominent far left juggy edge, traverse right to the face before big move up to the arete then top out using small edges on lip. Block to the right is out. FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
V3/4 | ★★ The long way out
Start matched on the far most left juggy rail in the middle of the big cave. Traverse right before meeting up with "the only way out" and finish as this problem FA: Murray Taylor | 8m | |||
Central Coast Rumbalara boulders Pinnacle Walls | |||||
V2/3 | ★ Mufusa Falls Again
The big tall pinnacle straight ahead past the statues and down the hill a fraction. High boulder. Start to right of shallow crack (beginning head height). Right and Left hand-half pad width crimp. Move up and shift left, placing right foot in shallow crack before moving back right to crimp. Work way directly up through a range of crimps and pinches to the main ledge roughly 1m from the top. Main ledge is about 6-7m up and huge-its a platform. Mantel finish- somewhat sketchy considering height. The moves on the face are relatively easy, the crux is low. Grade (V2/V3) reflects mental component and mantel finish at height. FA: Jake Berg, 11 Sep 2021 | ||||
Central Coast Rumbalara boulders Bulbasaur Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Seed Bomb
At the centre of the slab wall, standing start with both hands on the thin flake rail then moving up to good in cut edge then out right to slopey side pull pocket before moving upto lip and mantle FA: Tom Hodgson | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ gotta catch em all
At the far right side of the rear face. start low matched on the first jug edge, traverse the crimpy edge all the way until it fades out, from here move out left to the good edge before gaining the lip to mantle FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | |||
Central Coast Point Clare Point Clare Crag | |||||
22 | ★★ Funky see funky do
Just left at the top of the hill. 3 RB to Double RB lower-off. Caution: One of the lower off RB's is only half in the rock | 15m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Contrivial Pursuit
Stay on the vertical face for the grade, easier if mantled onto the slab FA: Jason Piper | 12m, 3 |