Routes in Australia for selected grade

All the moves had been done but no one was able to take care of this one until a climber from Scotland, Robbie Phillips visited Queensland. He sent the route on his last day in the country thereby establishing Queensland's current hardest Sport route.

Bouldery start trending left on line of weakness, before joining into BTHTF at the bolt below the headwall (ignore bolts out right which need to be removed).

Robbie re-named "Taking Care of Business Project" to "Haggisaurus Rex" due to the Dinosaur skin-like nature of the rock and the fact that Robbie only ate Haggis the whole time he was in Australia to maintain his Scottish Highlander Powers! Rumour has it they shipped 70 whole Haggis' to Australia just for Robbie..."

'Rocket Man' sit start. Start up If The Shoe Fits and finish up Rocket Man.

Stephen Rawls

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Sheila Binegas

Peter Jeavons

The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint.

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

Links 'Gone for Borneo' into If the 'If the Shoe Slips'

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

Scoots

Mattias BM

Sage G

Start left hand on the arete, right hand on lower crimp. Overhanging arete above the small pool near the entrance as you approach super overhanging wall.

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

Sit start on high crimps and follow line of small crimps to the top.

Do the first move of Abacus, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty. No traversing straight into the Sushi Train start holds.

The Plunge into Aquarius.

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu Monique Jorge flash

Sit-start at a small, slopey undercling with not much for feet.

Start for Vendetta, then drop down into the underclings, make some hard moves through underclings and slopers finishing out the top of the boulder (as for Vendetta or the Joker).

CMCC

Start left of the V4 problem on a good gaston and take a left-trending line past the mono to topout. Has seen an impressive flash ascent by James Litz (US). Originally given V13 by Sharik as the mono didn't exist and he did horrible moves crimping the very edge of the same hold.

Dynoing from the crack directly to the top is 'Forced Entry Direct' (V11)

Sit start on good small block and good edge. Head straight back the trend left to finish on dream block. Hard and sustained.

As for 'L'homme Obu' but big move right hand. Top out to the left.

George Li

Chase Gatland

Follow the crack starting right in the cave. Powerful on good holds. Awesome feature, classic.

Andy L.: https://vimeo.com/120233539

Clinton M.: https://youtu.be/kjrW3GyEhlU

Will A: https://vimeo.com/221130834

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

Short Fuse exiting via the final Persistence Boulder. Radical!

R. Hofmann

Start as for Phone Sex and finish through Shape Shifters.

Start matched on the large block. Make a couple of huge moves to a pocket, then big span out left to crimp side pull, head straight up the face before a scary mantle to top out. Powerful and big moves. Deceptive and seems to be rather solid for the grade.

Tom Farrell (FA) Tom Farrell

Elijah Mercado Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

Start Redetonated, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Upper Cave.

Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout.

Start: up levitation then move leftwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

Amazing line straight up the middle of the face. Obvious right hand crimp to start and very low left hand, follow horizontal break to top out right. (Direct top out is possible)

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat (opinions are divided on this...) and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade. Andrea , Ryan

Dyno from the start of Diplomatic Immunity to the top of I Am Twelve.

Sit start on left side of cave, climb up through middle of cave and head straight up the crack and edges to the slopers on the lip. High delicate mantle top out. Classic

Hard slapping and compression moves with crazy toe hooking. From the hard low start of tablets rehearsed ride the lip to link into blue and green and red all over.

Chris Beers

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

Jenny Lin

An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success.

Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU

Start directly under the prow on pockets then straight up for a desperate top out.

Sam Healy

Dai Koyamada's addition to Andersens. Sit start matched on the left facing flake. Move up the wall and jump like mad to the lip.

Tucker Time is sooooo rad. A technical boulder problem on the face down low leads to a massive rest you can bury bodies in, then truckin' on upward is another little punch followed by the crux of Super Duper Goo and finish with the best roof climbing known to man. Skip the last two bolts in the roof, get a little slack and take the cleanest 20m fall you've ever had.

Tucker Time.

Levitate off the underclings to the jug. No crash-pad cheating now!

Start: Sit

Sit start in the low left hand scoops. Strenuous moves through the scoops and up to the sloper rail. Big finishing move from a good edge to the top. Classic!

https://youtu.be/5B1NWxgTYmg

Was for four years the hardest route in the country. A classic Miller route, involving a fine balance of power and precision.

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Stand start on the obvious flat rail in the middle of the overhung face. Shoulder up to the obvious juggy feature from a tiny crimp and reel yourself up for the massive finishing dyno. Hard and classic. "this isn't flying it's falling with style"

https://vimeo.com/264040170

Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left.

Start as for 'A Glass Cage of Emotion' then link in to exit back and left as for 'The Cougar'. Pumpy and resistant.

Taran

Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper.

As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

Tom O’Halloran

Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat and is feisty straight off the deck with some brilliant and brutal bouldering. Suck in some oxygen at halfway then head up to join Love Cats at its crux, following this to where LC and TS trend back left. Instead peel off rightward under roof to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish. Stu

Sit start in the lowest two slots in the middle of the overhanging face and head straight up to the lip before punching right to the jug of ‘Old is the new sexy’ careful not to fly down the hill. Crucial hold broke off in 2023, has not been repeated since

Stand start on distinct sidepull, executing a powerful set of moves to a show-stopping long move. How it ends was anybody's guess ... until visiting Canadian Simon Parton showed everyone how it's done in 2016 in the inaugural Passchendaele V1 Bouldering Festival.

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran. Jump start off the boulder and then up up and away forever, topping the cliff to finish. Vince climbed it to the first anchors above the lip and called that Spacecake (30).

Start as for Persistence, climb this to finish out the crack as for Anger Management.

Peter Jeavons

Start up Cheese Monster past the first crux. At the break climb right, past the crux of "Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute". At the break under the roof, head straight out past slopes and edges (V9) and finish with a big move to the break. Awesomely sustained climb, vision and bolts by Robbie Le Breton, climbed by Vince Day.

Route renamed on request of Vince Day in 2020.

Lee Cossey

Sit start the right hand arete of the pillar, hard moves off ground follow arete to mantle top.

Sit start and head left past big moves to the arete then around to jugs to finish.

The stand start. Left hand on sloper and right down low on a positive dimple. Chuck a left heel hook and squeeze your way up with powerful moves. Hard V11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YXrt1WlZKA

Standing Start

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grade

Sit start low on steep pillar with hard compression, move up and out via burly climbing. Might be easier, grade needs confirming

Direct finish of Super birdman.

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33. A 6m direct variant of Tripe, squeezed in between Don't Believe and Tripe. Ben Tom Jake

The most direct line for Braveheart. Start on slotted jug as per Mad Max, and head straight out the roof as for Braveheart.

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

Sit start on scoop as for shambala and trend left in the roof to crimps on the nose of the boulder. One of the best bits of steep granite in the state. Low percentage crux. A classic. Stand ~V10ish. https://vimeo.com/28345305

Sage G.

Tom O’Halloran

Sit start on good holds. Huge move to the sloper to gain the stand. The kicker down low is in.

~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge.

Pooferator into Truckstop into Horseshoe into Fabricator.

Tom O'Halloran

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on good holds down to the left, move up and right through the roof, then up arête to top out.

Start matched on obvious flat hold. Tricky moves through slopey holds lead to tough move into the slot. Use small LH crimp to gain the big sloping rail, follow it left and up above questionable landing. Bush-bash to the top.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. The landing needs rebuilding.

Callum Mather

A direct line up from the Goldfinger start via pocket and undercling then dyno to a slopey crimp on the lip and up the v easy top.

Chris Beers

As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all.

Sit start as for "Blue Alien" heading left to a large pocket and a sharp crimp with a thumb catch. Make some difficult moves to gain the large left hand pocket on the lip before heading to the break.

Byron Glover

Upper body intensive moves: Campus to the good hold, followed by an easy exit.

Peter Jeavons

Emmanuel Madayag

Only known repeat by Matt Wrigley.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Sit start on big undercling and good pinch at the far back of the middle of the cave. Head straight up and out of the steepest part of the cave on some very slopey holds and good underclings. Finish matched on the dream block.

4m right of Up Jumped the Devil. Climbs straight up. Nowhere to hide on this. One of the best bouldery routes in the mountains. New sequence makes it a bit easier than the FA beta.

Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder.

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into El Kooko.

Start as for times up but head straight up via huge dyno

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand low side pull. Hard burly compression sequence into the stand.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByUBgfAjWjH/

https://youtu.be/4K0QTDkKRSI

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.