Ascents in North East as Tick or First ascent

real good, nice lead by matt on the second pitch

Absolute quality crack climbing but sure is a massive sandbag for the grade. French freed the hard stuff and did the easy stuff. My favourite parts were the chimney sections. Climbing in full sun with too little water not recommended. Dry tears were cried. The exit was cool, used the drawing that’s posted on the crag which helped a lot. Most painful feet I’ve had on a route. Even the last pitch has proper crack climbing moves.

Mass self belay session on riding rest day. Ok crag to build granite slab skills, most routes have enough bolts for sanity as far as slabs go. May be a few more routes squished in then the wall justifies.

Just another classic Angels epic.

Started off mid-morning, this would be my first dose of quality granite crack climbing and I was bloody excited.

First and second pitch were incredible. Until I whipped near the top of the second pitch. Clean fall but caught my foot/ankle real bad on the wall. After bringing up my second, I got up to lead pitch 3 and nopeee. Unable to weight my foot much, I mix freed and aided. By pitch 4 I could no longer weight or move my left foot at all. With my partner having never lead on trad before, I had to keep pushing, 1-footed aid-climbing. No layers and just a single headlamp meant we were well into epic territory by the last pitch at 11pm.

The slightest pressure on my foot was excruciating, nevertheless, found myself on the last move of the entire climb, mantling a ledge while levering on one foot against a cam, as I stepped up the cam blew out the top of the crack and (Having bumped cams the entire way up) I took the biggest whip I've ever taken and landed back at the belay gently on top of my partner. This was no good for my already sub-par ankle.

Managed to get up the top eventually and drag myself around a rock to belay.

Rescue entailed with thanks to Josh Street. 3am back to car after many hours of hauling, crawling and piggy backs.

Glad I cut my teeth solo on Ozy a couple weeks ago for some Aid training haha.

Overall, Had a great time and can't wait to get back.

Ended up being quite a bit of an adventure climb with lots of gardening required.

First pitch is poorly protected until reaching the right facing corner crack. Traverse to Old Hands is also poorly protected.

Set up an intermediate belay in crack after traversing across to Old Hands due to rope drag and climbed up to belay ledge as an extra pitch.

Due to messing up the pitches, I was looking for pitch 3 (instead of 2) and ended up sieging a path directly up a wet and dirty crack up and left from the ledge.

In theory you can traverse further left to follow a much cleaner line.

Would be better from the new carrot belay

Three tough days in the sun. Slept at the base night before, then Big Grassy day 1, under Gledhill roof day 2 and topped out day 3. Awesome experience with great gear and exposure. But even after getting more water on the first night 4 litres per person each day was not enough on 30 degree days. Ended up severely dehydrated and with an upset stomach couldn't eat for the last day and a half which made progress really slow.

Either way this line is a serious undertaking. Glad we spent a few days practicing aid and hauling technique in the lead up and that we both have a wide range of rope skills under our belt. Definitely not the place or conditions to be learning new skills.

The nut off the fifth anchor is actually on the right at the base of the climb. Didn't realise that's where it came from until day 2.

We only did P2, in an attempt to avoid the sun. Highly recommended, a great shady option. Abseil in from rusty carrots at top. This pitch written up as grade 16, but seemed closer to 14.