Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The West Ridge | |||||
14 | ★ Pitch One | 30m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The South Face | |||||
13 | Sodom And Begorrah
FA: John Maine & Pete Matthews, 1968 | 80m | |||
14 | The Chimney Route | 40m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Top Rocks | |||||
14 | I Hate Spiders
| 5m, 2 | |||
14 | The Friend
| 6m | |||
14 | Sloping Shinney
| 4m | |||
14 | Killer Prawns
| 7m | |||
14 | Mosquito Eating Man
| 8m | |||
14 | Pervert
| 8m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Main Crag | |||||
14 | A Nalp Assage
| 6m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Closed Pukepohatu/ Bald Rock Summit Slab | |||||
13 | Switchblade
FA: Andrew Nevin, 2001 | 9m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Closed Pukepohatu/ Bald Rock Upper West Slab | |||||
13 | Hairline | 15m | |||
14 | Baldylocks | 13m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Tokatoka | |||||
14 | White Anglo Saxon Protestant
Curving crack right of It's Now Or Never. Start under tree about 6m up. FA: John Smith, Bryce Martin & John Webb, 1995 | 35m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Caves Cave Wall | |||||
14 | Pluto
On the "Wet Entrance Wall" Th e stream disappears underground about 50m south-east of the cave dry entrance. Start on the far bank. Climb past two parallel cracks to a bulge. Move right over the bulge and direct to the top. Natural pro, tree belay. FA: Alan Hill & Andrew Mumford, 1991 | 12m | |||
13 | Murphy
Start at the right-hand side of the cave entrance, from the earthy ledge behind the tree. Climb the bulge, move slightly right then up through small overhangs to the top. | 13m | |||
14 | ★★ Mudslime Slim
To the left the wall degenerates to a tree-lined slope before outcropping again. Start 2m to the left of the second tree growing at the foot of the cliff . Climb to a sharp edge and large hole, then up a groove. | 10m | |||
14 | Zeus
The route starts at the next sizeable outcrop some 15m to the left . Climb to a small overhang below the tree with protruding flake (what!?). Move right to gain a ledge, and finish by the right-hand tree. FA: Alan Hill & Andrew Mumford, 1991 | 10m | |||
14 | Unknown Sport Route #3
Climb up past a single bolt on juggy flakes. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown. | 8m, 1 | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Caves Closed Crag X The Grotto | |||||
13 | Goldfinger's Delight
| 6m | |||
13 | A Good Route
| 8m | |||
14 | Suicide Rock
| 6m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Caves Closed Arena Walls | |||||
13 | Androcks
| 8m | |||
14 | Meteor
| 8m | |||
14 | Glenfinnan
| 8m | |||
13 | Ross
| 12m | |||
14 | The Portree Kid
| 21m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Cove Midway | |||||
14 | ★ Touch And Go
A corner on your right as you walk down the gully between the cliffs. Look for a large vine jammed in it. Start left of the vine (crux), then bridge up the corner. FA: Hamish Pirie, 1996 | 7m | |||
14 | Wreckage
On the left-hand cliff (going down the gully) facing the sea is a shallow scoop. Climb this, avoiding some loose rock at the top. FA: Hamish Pirie & Adam Lovell, 1996 | 9m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Cove The Point | |||||
14 | Wayward Seaward Lean
You’ll notice this right leaning crack as soon as you reach the point. The start is likely to be wet at high tide. Begs to be climbed. | 8m | |||
V0- | ★ Left Arête
On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Climb the arête using the least sharp holds you can find finishing up the slightly overhanging face. FA: Richard Flinn, Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Cove Langs Point | |||||
14 | Szechuan
A sharp but pleasant arête to work up, topping out top left. Named in honour of Langs Beach royalty. FA: Sam McEwan, Nov 2015 | 6m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Closed Waro Reserve Main Crag | |||||
13 | Distrodopholous | 15m | |||
13 | Mole In The Hole | 9m | |||
14 | Number Plate Climb | 18m | |||
14 | The Naturalist | 18m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Closed Waro Reserve South Side | |||||
14 | Minstrel In The Gallery | 10m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Right Corner Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Riding the Sandworm
Climb the crack on the left side of the pillar of 'Ogopogo Strikes Back' (17). Good nut placeable from the ground saves your ankles, juggy but somewhat powerful start leads to easier ground above. Plenty of options for cams/nuts, enjoy mantling up at the top. Set: Andy Baird & Eric Horn, 3 Dec 2019 FA: Andy Baird & Eric Horn, 3 Dec 2019 | 9m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Lakeside Wall | |||||
13 | ★ Rain of Rocks
Start below as for "Sylvie's Blast Hole", then traverse diagonally up to the anchors of A Carp Died for this. Loose blocks have been removed, but there may still be a few more until it sees more traffic. FA: Lizzie Gamst, 11 Mar 2018 | 11m | |||
14 | ★ M-80 Blast
Climbs the blocks to the right of 'The South Face', follow the blast hole line towards the anchors of 'Fingertip Face'. Some good placements on the first half, the bolts can be used for a mixed route or there's a small crack with a couple of placements leading up to the anchor. FA: Andy Baird & Gianna Evans, 10 Feb 2020 | 11m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Sunnyside | |||||
13 | Pabulum
| 6m | |||
14 | ★ Trocadero
| 6m | |||
14 | ★ Night Shift
| 7m | |||
14 | Jacaranda
Grade 16 if the ledge is not used. | 6m | |||
14 | Soluble Fish
| 8m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side The Forgotten Wall | |||||
13 | Coconut Rough
| 7m | |||
14 | Freud Squad
| 7m | |||
14 | Hyphen Ear
| 8m | |||
13 | ★ Step Chant Unit
| 8m | |||
14 | Pop Mix
| 8m | |||
14 R | Mutton Gun
| 9m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Dong Buttress | |||||
13 R | Will Flush
| 9m | |||
13 R | World Gone Wild
| 9m | |||
14 | Smaug
| 9m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Whinging Wall | |||||
13 | Short Crack
| 8m | |||
13 | Wattle Tree Chimney
| 10m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Boots Wall | |||||
14 | M.I.A
| 8m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side Coliseum and Wee Corner | |||||
14 | Minus
| 10m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Short Side New Wall | |||||
13 | ★ New Beginnings
FA: Ray Hollingsworth & Martin Malin, 2006 | 12m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Welcome to O.W.B.C
FA: Ray Hollingsworth & Chris White, 2006 | 12m | |||
13 | New Kid in Town
FA: Ray Hollingsworth & Chris White, 2006 | 12m | |||
14 | Old Dogs and New Tricks
FA: Ray Hollingsworth & Chris White, 2006 | 12m | |||
13 | New Romantics
FA: Ray Hollingsworth & Mike Zandvoort, 2005 | 12m | |||
14 | ★ Time (The Revealator)
FA: Ray Hollingsworth & Chris White, 2006 | 12m, 4 | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point The Preamble | |||||
14 | Shenzy
Climb the block for 3m, then up the chimney to the chockstone below the bulge. Over the bulge and up to easier but poor rock. A good belay can be hard to arrange. FA: John Watson, 1972 | 20m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point The Arch | |||||
14 | ★ Chockstone Chimney
The chimney at the back of the arch with chockstone half way up. Climb to the chockstone turning it on the outside (crux). Ascend easily till the chimney has to be vacated out onto a slab on the right, then up easy but poor rock. There is a large knob of rock on the top of the ridge that can be belayed off, or chuck a sling around it and climb down the gully on the other side to the belay of "The Angel of Calcutta" which is on the right wall of the gully. FA: Robbie McBirney & Cliff Smith, 1973 | 30m | |||
13 | ★★ Hotch Potch
On the right side of the arch and at a slightly higher level is a maze of chimneys. Climb by the easiest means and finish up loose rocks. FA: Robbie McBirney & Cliff Smith, 1973 | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Kyrie Elison
Face out to sea and head up the huge crack in the left wall towards the roof. Climb the roof crack and belay at a bottomless stance from big gear. Pitch two: Out towards the sea and up a fist crack on the outside wall. FA: Bill Atkinson & Paul Richardson, 1975 | 35m, 2 | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point The Amphitheatre | |||||
14 | ★ Sparmid
Start as for "J.E.M.", and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and get established in the crack. At the top of the crack there is a crack that leads diagonally up to the right to the anchors of "Fight or Slight". While airy it is easily protected to get up to use these anchors to abseil off. Originally either used a tree tree belay or exited to the left to the anchors of J.E.M. which created drag with an up and over redirect. FA: Brian Alexander, Bryan Dudley & John Watson, 1972 | 20m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Chad Wall | |||||
13 | ★★ Drip Dry
The crack at the end of the buttress nearest the sea. Climb using the holds on the right to DBC belay. FA: Jeff Clark & John Watson, 1972 | 20m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Sam Bullock Wall | |||||
14 | ★★ The Bounding Main
Climb the slabby rib, moving right from the ledge at 5m . Up for 3m till you can step back left onto the rib, and on to the top. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors. FA: Cliff Smith, John Maine & Mike Dean, 1973 | 15m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Whiskey Delta Area | |||||
14 | ★ Suicide Wall
A slabby wall with Titanium Rams Horns for belay, behind the large block and finishing at the same pohutukawa as ‘Slap and Tickle’. Rams Horn Details: https://youtu.be/3QKKx69xN7M FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell & Heather Howlett, 2004 | 10m, 4 | |||
13 | ★★ The Womb
The short corner just before the grassy bank, there is a chain link hanger on the left face at about half height. Climb the crack or face on the left until the chockstone, over and then the left face or squeeze up the crack. FA: John Watson, Bryan Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972 | 12m | |||
14 | ★ Elementary
The short crack facing the sea, Crux is the second section of the crack proper, tree belay back from the top. FA: John Watson, 1972 | 10m | |||
13 | Erg
The leaning chimney crack in the middle of the buttress. Tree belay. FA: John Watson, Brian Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972 | 10m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave Kings Side The garage | |||||
V0- | Lockdown 2.0
Start on the rail to the left of Lockdown, finish same Mantle as Lockdown but can use feet on the left. FA: Maika Hemera | 1m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave Kings Side Main wall | |||||
V0- | Arete to nowhere
Sit start, bottom rock on right is out, stay within the cracks. Finish somewhere in the dark green abyss. FA: Maika Hemera | 3m | |||
V0- | Rasta
Sit start to top FA: Maika Hemera | 3m | |||
V0- | ★★ Purple
Sit start, use the face and crack | 3m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave King's Wall | |||||
V0- | Warm up
Sit start, Climb the outside arete on jugs and traverse the tops to the opposite side finish and step down. FA: Maika Hemera | 4m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave The Plaque Side | |||||
V0- | Plaque
One move wonder sit start on arete and ledge top and mantle FA: Maika Hemera | 1m | |||
V0- | Wairere
Climb the slab then traverse left to the top, watch for loose rock FA: Maika Hemera | 4m | |||
V0- | Wear a mask
Mediocre hold quality to the top, be careful FA: Maika Hemera | 4m | |||
V0- | Level One
Use the block, crack and arete's to gain the top FA: Maika Hemera | 4m | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Pipeline Walls | |||||
14 AID:A1 | Berkeley Square
P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m under the big roof until a belay stance with a bolt and good wire. P2: Climb up and slightly right for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. Double bolt belay. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab the slab to its highest point keeping to the cleanest rock. Double bolt belay. P4: Not generally climbed now but it is possible to climb further slabs up and right. Belay and descend from pine trees. FA: Cliff Smith & Robbie McBirney, 1973 | 70m, 3 | |||
14 | Anteater
The obvious high-level rib overlooking the large pool upstream. It is past the old mine workings where the gorge narrows. Cross stream and head up through bush to the right of the rib. Step left for 3m until a small cave is reached. Climb out of the cave and follow a shallow corner past a peg until you can step right to easier ground. Descent via abseil. This description is old and needs updating. FA: Stu Braithwaite & Cliff Smith, 1972 | 20m | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Steer Pike | |||||
13 | Commencement Crack
This route is found above 'Steerpike'. Climb the left hand crack up through a notch at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating. FA: Rick McGregor & Phillip Wicks, 1973 | 15m | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Skyline Buttress | |||||
13 | ★ Sam Gamgee
Climb the featured rock 2m left of the direct start to Mad Carew. Turn the overlap on the left and follow good holds on the slab to the rings. FA: Sal Beisly, Nov 2022 | 15m | |||
14 | Skyline Buttress
Climbs the skyline ridge by the easiest line commencing to the right of Shelob. Descent is by abseil. Now very overgrown and difficult to follow. | 100m | |||
14 AID:A1 | Redeye Rib
This climb may be lost to history Starts level with and across the gully from the pine tree at the top of Shelob. Pitch 1, 15m: Climb the rib for 3m to a groove on the right. Climb the groove, step left at the top and climb up to a tree belay on the right. Pitch 2, 20m: Move left 2m to an in situ peg. With its aid gain the steep rib on the left. An extra sling used on a spike on the rib has since been eliminated. Climb the pleasant exposed rib more easily to a tree belay. Descend by abseil. FA: Cliff Smith & Martin Hill, 1975 | 35m | |||
14 | Sprog
The crack above the Skyline Buttress, prominent from the bridge. FA: Rick McGregor, Bill Atkinson & Len Gillman, 1974 | 15m | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Shield | |||||
14 | ★ Bolted line
Double bolt anchors Obvious bolted line | 20m, 9 | |||
13 | Route 3
Climb up to small cave then move left and up. 10m right of the last climbs, could do with a clean. | 20m | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Prelude | |||||
14 AID:A1 | Prelude Direct
May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating. FA: Jarrad Israel, 1979 | 40m | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Kahn | |||||
14 | Kahn
May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating. | 25m, 2 | |||
14 | Troll
May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating. FA: Peter Jemmett & Robbie McBirney, 1972 | 30m, 2 | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Sentinel | |||||
13 | Sentinel
P1: Climb the rib from the bottom, until a small belay ledge on the right is reached. P2: Step left and climb steep wall to good ledges (10m). Either abseil or continue up through bush to the track above. This description is old and needs updating. | 40m, 2 | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge London Wall | |||||
14 | Shaftsbury Avenue
May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating. FA: Robbie McBirney & Cliff Smith, 1973 | 20m | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Karangahake Gorge Black Wall | |||||
13 | Black Wall
Start just below the rib on the left of the cliff. You will see a rusty piton right above you. Follow the line of least resistance which will lead you left into a small belay cave with a couple bolts. From there it is straight up to the top. Initially climbed as two pithes but cam be climbed as one without much rope drag. Beta warning: Bring runners to sling large holes in the rock, other protection is sparse and mainly consists of wires. Rap down using the large pine at the top. Note this tree may no longer exist and have fallen down. | 40m, 2, 1 | |||
14 | Aberation
Pitch 1, 20m: As for the standard route to the cave. Pitch 2, 40m: Instead of leaving the cave on the left as for the standard route, exit right. Traverse into a shallow groove and climb this for 5m, Traverse right across a slabby bulge (tree runner), ascend the bulge and the short groove above. At the top of the groove pull out left onto good ledges. This should be the belay ledge for the standard route. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating. FA: Robbie McBirney & Jim Sawers, 1972 | 60m |