Ascents in Oceania by Kyle Addy

Very shouldery boulderly move for frog. I wouldn’t think twice if it got 23, Felt as hard a deliverance. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Deserves 2 stars.

Showing TeeTeeBahaha up one of the best.

5th time, one of my favourites delicate and balancy with burger gear including key hole #2 RPs though you may become a four legged monster if you fall placing them.

Lovely and groovy

Fabulous piece of climbing even though its less than 10m high. Great gear once you find where to put it

Not bad actually but climbing the left arete of the groove seemed nicer than groovy awkwardness

With gen and frosty about a month ago and again to half way to do anti form

Some tense moments watching an off the couch frosty gingerly making his way up this. There seems like there’s good and average gear available but an excellent journey.

Logging some ascents from frog in a froq. I lead the top out after gen lowered from the crux. I Climbed absolutely terrible and got a little scared

Sadly contrived, and unfortunately unnatural. It’s pretty obvious after cleaning the holes out from the block. 3 perfectly round holes with cone bottoms within a meter of each other but somehow nowhere else on the wall. Probably sendable without them as well. Manufacturing holds is unacceptable let’s leave something futuristic for the next generation. I also think v5 is a better grade it’s not that hard.

Exciting, 5 bolts, bring a 2 Camelot for a pod near the top. Nut belay in a flake

What a line. I lead the first pitch, awesome movement with creative nests between stances. Dan lead the second first time leading since breaking his ankle months ago. Amazing job and held himself together really well. very hard to clean. Bring a rock or a even a little hammer to hit out the nut placements they just bite into the granite.

A little awkward it should continue up further

Second shot my anti style but really cool

Real good!

Yip yah, it’s a shame there was a heaps of tick marks but rad face moves. Got it in bare feet on top rope second go.

Fun!

Just on wires, hats off to the old dogs

Nice, I got a mantle into shoulder jamb

Old tick, really nice little problem

Another old tick, cool line, good intro to scary frog

I did this a couple of years ago and can’t remember on sighting it, I did it back in winter this year and quite impressed that I did this back then, more like a 17

Tried this couple of years ago and used my 2 cams in the first 2m, hahaha. Old tick

Check out the gear rapping off if, still didn’t really have the gear sorted though this was quite desperate in full sun.

After trying to top rope this a couple years ago I came back and did it second go couple of months ago, great gear, all on wires

Simply amazing

Fantastic little climb

Seconded frosty on this clean once and I actually from the bottom of the arete, adds more so more cool movement.

I remember being rather gripped of this back then, good small gear.

Nice climbing easy for 23

Great little climb!

I really enjoyed this one, also got a hand jamb!

Holy moly this is hard, had a quick go and couldn’t really get to the second bolt

Gave it a lash to warm up after giving a belay. really nice climbing, came down after having a go at the crux. Doesn’t actually seem all that hard. It’s a real shame this climb suffered a lot of glue with poor workmanship on holds that probably aren’t that crucial. But still a good route.

Led all pitches with Dad and Gen, great day out.

Spent nearly an hour on this. Fantastic climb, sustained but not really too hard just a big mental battle. Had 2 other attempts over a few months

Great day out with frosty on a classic old school route. I lead pitches 2 and 4.

Stepped in for the left and made a nest and came down, got through the crux second go. On edge the whole way to the top.

For a grunty dirty awkward groove I actually found this quite fun. Leading it would have been less fun.

Warm up

Holy s#it balls i have little idea how to do the move at 4m I had a couple of goes but bailed off. 24 is low ball just because it’s one hard move?? Same with suicide city and this felt harder. maybe there’s some beta to it or something has broken off or I’m useless.

Bloody sick climb and goes good with shiny new rings

Bloody sick climb and goes good with shiny new rings

This would have been exciting wearing sand shoes in 1966. This climb is Fantastic if your into this sort of thing, Quality adventure climbing. I don’t think it’s sandbagged but just don’t fall off. Climb smart like back in the 60s, Stand up feel around step back down then commit. First and second are runout but manageable. Third is absolute class. Pitch 4 spoils it a bit, I was a little nervous hanging my body weight of both hands on a block which I soon realised was detached. Pitch 5 is ordinary. I don’t know why people enter pitch 3 by a different way I think it would take away the historical element and class of the line.

Fantastic climbing 1st pitch is very manageable with a 4-5-6. There is 100% a eagle in the crack. 2nd pitch traverse is awesome. A classic in my books

What a Mega line. We had a punt on the first 4 pitches to cap off our trip and rapped off and did a rebolt of pitch 2-3. Pitch-1 20 Me onsight Runout on average gear in the bottom half with a hard move then pleasant climbing up a slabby crack corner.

Pitch-2 21 Dan onsight Committing technical slab climbing on bolts, probably well bolted in terms of lost boys but still runout

Pitch-3 21 Alex onsight Nice slab with a couple of bolts then up into a committing layback crack.

Pitch-4 23-25 Alex Alex had a quick look at the first section with a rather intense sideways-lunge-dyno

Really fantastic climbing the whole way. Found it pretty relaxing which made for an absorbing enjoyable onsight.

Felt pretty good after ONAL so sussed the gear and went for it. Felt harder, scarier, more runout on worse gear. I was rather scared but held it together and keep composure for a dicey tense lead. Climbing is probably 22 extra grade for seriousness?

I swung over and had a look to see how the gear was. Felt pretty confident so tied in and went for it. All the gear is bomber just that one section where your in decking territory. Didn’t feel as hard as 22 and felt really controlled the whole way. Really nice feety climbing that deserves more love.

Had one go on top rope in the sun. amazing and technical climbing.

What an absolute cracker of a day. Four sessions and third attempt of the day. So much self doubt but managed to hang onto it. Thank you to all the people who supported me and pushed me through the send.

Forgot to tick this. It was a fair while between sessions on it but i felt quite comfortable but i did start to eat really pumped at the last piece of gear. Got it second shot of the day. Really a fantastic climb. Great gear once you know where it goes. I also climbed up to put gear bellow the finger slot then came down to go for the send

5 session all up I think. First got on it with Alex when he sent it.. very technical and some superb moves even a couple of knee bars! Would have been a dicey climb without ball nuts. Makes it quite sane. Definitely deserves to be done more.

Old ascent

Old ascent, nuts and hexs

Old ascent

Onsight approach shoes

Yay cracks, approach shoes no mat