Routes in Oceania

Sequencey, bouldery, and at times dynamic climbing on great rock. A perfect next step up after doing Bullen's Route. Slightly height dependent through the cruxes, so more like 27 for shorter climbers.

Up right hand side of orange wall tending right at ledge to shared anchcor below roof.

Sit start. Up past the towel hooks.

Obvious pocketed line left side of Money.

The crack on it's right side from a sit start, right of Carat.

Continue directly up the slanting crack line (instead of traversing L)

Affectionately called Pockets of Power, this climb will leave you pumped, gazing at the pulsating two fingers on each of your hands!

the first few moves involve some creative thinking - start in front of scoop, using weird undercling and solid ledge, enjoy your way up using the two/three finger pockets piercing the wall. With 3 awesome pockets,a few razor sharp crimpers and a slight overhang this climb with test you. Top out has some good slaps and crimps, but may need some brush work

Down climb via the Jurrasic Tree Root to the right of 'Coal Train Blues'.

Start with both hands on the ledge/rail. Move diagonally left to reach the top there. Much harder if you are short.

This bit of rock is really solid and free from choss. It also has a 20 degree overhang.

But how far? A warm up to be sure. Start as for DA and up by whatever means fair or foul.

Stand start on high pinch, then straight up jugs. Will have a good, harder sit start when/if the low rock dries out.

https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=1105

Sit start with left hand side pull and right hand crimp. Up face then step right to top out.

Thin crimpy climb just right of the main crack line.

15m right of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner righthand crack (though it is still often slippery).

Stand start on good crimp rail, then mantle up to slab finish.

Will need a good spot!

crack.

Up easy face from ledge to stance below the groove. Place RPs and then follow groove up face to top and DBB. Micro-cams useful.

Up the corner using medium to large gear. Stainless carrot belay 3m back from top.

Up home made FHs passing small ledge to large ledge. Small wires then needed for pro, to final bolt and up to DRBB

Start on good holds then up onto the left face

Nicely cleaned up. Start on the face immediately right of Boat Ramp Crack, moving right around the roof to get established on the the arete (crux), then easier climbing follows higher up. For an easier start climb up the hand rope and path a bit and start on the face right of the arete.

Up past scoop through thin face to anchors

Mantle.

From first belay on Archaeopteryx head up corner for a few metres then traverse across past thread to main crack line directly above Phoenix and up it. May need a bolt at top to avoid runout finish.

Sit start with LH on crimp under the roof and RH on crimp on the right face of the arete. Tricky first move to the set of 3 crimps then easy until the bulging topout sequence ramps it up a notch. Right wall is off

SDS Contrived sit start low flat shelf for the left and right pocket pinch just above. Foot shelf below the low flat shelf is divided into three. Don't use the largest right portion.

Thin seam up the vague corner above with mostly monos if sausages for fingers. V1 from a stand.

starts in the overhanging crack about 10mts L of FiP. Often wet at the base. Up the crack and onto the R wall/slab. Brackets required

1.5 metres R of Curious Fanatic. Boulder up layaways to jug at 4/5 metres. Up easy slab/crack.

Stand start on good edge. Head right then try and find the invisible crimp!

Crack / chimney to DBB.

Start: 3m right of "Mal's Corner". Up and left over horrible sandy breaks.

3m right of AG. Follow the grey streak to left of large diagonal crack.

5 RB's to DBB.

Classic. Stand start on small crimp edges, move left into corner and make a committing few moves up to large holds to top out.

Unclimbed, Same as Mama Bear but climb to top

Start 3m right of Peroxide Power. Climb the shallow chimney, then cracks and grooves.

Sharpen your left boot to stick the pocket. Harder for the short

Climb left wall of large chimney to L of Shells of Rheban. Not visible from other side of valley.

Sit start in the middle. Head left and top out.

Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder.

Chipped, hence not very popular.

Sit start in the small cave. Up on some weird slopers to finish out left on the arete.

Crumbly overhang.

Climb as per 'The traverse' right to left ending at arete flat jug then reverse the whole thing without coming off

Route that only uses pinch holds

Crack

Sit Start and up centre of face to nasty slopey top out

A quick way up in the middle of the wall, good to use if you are breaking the traverse into sections.

Start low with both hands in the good slot and climb directly up the arete using crimps and pinches. Once you've gained the good holds at the lip top out direct or as for Fraser's Face

Hardest side of the boulder, everything to the left of the main crack. Named after the third song of the album. You want to climb it so bad but its just so difficult

Adventurous chimney.

Super classic for novelty reasons. Stand start off the top of the bench with an undercling and make a big committing move to the rail above. Move left and top out from here.

Sit start left side of bloc right of seam moving right via pebbles into and up Seashell-on-Left.