Routes as trad in Oceania

As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe

1. 40' Move right up the ramp leading to the base of Toccata and about 15' to the left of Toccata, traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner.

2. 100' Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top.

Beautiful rock but a bit contrived. Start as for Discord.

1. 25m (22) Follow the line of Discord and continue up, keeping as far to the right as possible. At headwall step right to a bulging thin crack which is followed to a ledge. The direct start (23) climbs past a bolt to join this pitch. Graham Jones March 1986. There is a carrot bolt low down which looks like it might be the direct start. There is also a FH a good deal higher than the carrot whose role is not clear.

2. 20m (-) The crack above.

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.

1. Step right from the start of Toccata into crack and up to ledge. Follow seams up and right past small and fiddly gear. Where seam blanks out, step left and continue up to base of Toccata's chimney.

2. The wide crack of Yossarian looks rubbish. Just finish up Toccata.

A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall. Start on the grey buttress just right of Toccata.

1. 13m (10) The buttress to a small stance about 6 metres below and left of prominent roof.

2. 35m (17) Up diagonally right from 2-3 metres to an awkward mantleshelf then an unlikely traverse back left to a thin crack. Go up into a wider, bottomless crack just right of 'Toccata'. The easiest way off is probably to scramble around (roped) to the abseil anchors on 'Toccata'.

The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind.

Hardly a recommendation.

Lovely corner on the second pitch. Scramble up the gully right of Toccata under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for Yossarian but it doesn't add much value.

1. 13m (-) Climb up to Yossarian's first belay then move right and up to belay on the obvious block below the right side of the prominent roof. You could also do the direct start to Deflated which is just a few metres to the right.

2. 35m (15) Difficult move up to right side of roof (RPs essential) then continue up corner.

Essentially a nice variant finish to Sonatine, sharing that climb's crux. 35m abseil descent.

1. Start as for Yossarian or Sonatine or other approach to the first belay of Sonatine at the huge block.

2. 25m 16 Step off the block into a shallow orange groove (as for Sonatine, crux, RPs essential). Move into the righthand groove and follow it direct. (Sonatine is the corner on the left).

Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start at the short, easy corner.

1. 15m (-) Up the easy corner and follow the ramp to belay on ledge at top left, just right of Sonatine's belay. All very easy but a rope might be called for.

2. 35m (11) Step up and right onto wall and then take line going straight up.

Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.

Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.

1. 15m (-) Up short corner and left up ramp to ledge at top left. Or Direct Start (11): About 8 metres left of the corner, 5 metres right of chockstone at an obvious mantle move on the smooth wall. Up the smooth wall, the wall behind can help but is not necessary, no protection for first 5 metres then head slightly right to big ledge.

2. 25m (13) Step right off detached block on right edge of ledge and up wall to finish up right-hand crack on steep wall. Left-hand crack is 'Alychne'.

Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.

Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.

Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete.

The Alychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett was an optometrist). This climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic; the mossy appearance, fiddly protection and indirect line tend to put people off. Double ropes are very useful.

Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (many RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.

Start at the right-hand toe of the wall, a few meters right of Alychne, at a seam in nice rock.

1. 23m Up seam to some ledges. Move left back onto front of buttress. Up little buttress (there are some loose blocks just to the left) to large ledge where an obvious big block sticks over the edge. Despite the alarming appearace from below, this block isn’t going anywhere.

2. 12m Go up from the left side of the ledge and continue up.

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

Over the nose

Start at base of mossy ramp and follow left sloping crack 2 1/2 metres left of 'Ann', Finish up left face of the bulge

Start at base of mossy ramp, climb easily to small roof. Follow small crackline to top on slim to no protection.

Start at mossy ramp as for 'Falling Upwards'. Move right at top of ramp to join large obvious crackline.

The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.

This was originally called Sage but as there is already a real climb of that name at Arapiles it has been altered.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. 4 metres right of the overhang, follow crack to the right of hanging boulder, finish up to gap in blocks. Scramble off to right.

Climb is on the east face, facing the Pines. Starts easily to shallow cave at 6m. Leaving the cave, the gear is rather thin and at the grade.

The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings.

The small crack/corner system on the L.

Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.

Up R to small flake, then up R to L end of a ledge. Poxy flake to finish.

Start: Start 5m down R of OL.

Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.

Up this.

Start: Start right of Starsearch, under where the half height ledge ends.

Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks.

Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress.

Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall.

Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again.

Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.

There's probably a smutty double entendre here.

Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle.

The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab.

Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top.

The wide L-facing flake-crack.

Start: Start 4m L of MYC.

"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete.

May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.

Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.

Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.

Start below tooth-flake 3m right of Mark You've Changed.

Up right side of flake.

Start: The left most line.

Start: The next line right.

Good.

Start: Line on arete.

Try not to pike right.

Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.

Good.

About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.

Up crack.

The shallow groove, then the L crack and the L side of the flake to a corner and face on the south wall.

Start: Start on L edge of 'Brick Wall'.

As for W but then follow the R crack to ledge. Step up R onto R wall, over roof into steep groove/crack.

Start: Start as for W.

Pale waterstreak into thrutch crack.

Start on blocky ledge halfway up the left side of Brick Wall - i.e. off the top of the pinnacle just ledt of Squeakeasy.

A traverse of Brick Wall. A strange concept that has been superseded by Brickeasy. Start as for Brick Dust

Up Brick Dust for one move, then r across Squeakeasy to easier traversing.

A good warmup romp for the harder stuff here. Up Brick Dust to the base of its chimney. Step down R (unlikely) and make a few balancy moves across and up into Squeakeasy. Continue up Squeakeasy to its anchor.

Great sustained moves up intermittent pods in the crack and directly through the small roof. Beware a slight runout at about 6m which doesn't leave much room for error.

Start: Start just R of the pillar/pedestal.

Start as for QDS.

Up QDS then take small flake up L, almost reaching 'Squeakeasy'. Up then traverse R into hanging crack on bulge and up this line.

Runout.

Start as for QDS.

Climb QDS to where it joins Quisling. Step left and climb the seam to the right of Squealing aiming for the hanging nose. Gain this on its left then step right and finish straight up to mega jugs. Finish up Squealing or Squeakeasy.

Harder than it looks! Small wires and smaller holds.

The tough thin crack just right of Squeakeasy leads into Quisling.

Some people find this quite hard - but it's not 20!

Start 5m R of Squeakeasy.

Polished face to pedestal, L into the line which is quite steep over the bulge, then the corner. At 25m walk 5m L to Squeakeasy's rap anchor.

Start: Start as for Quisling.

1. 20m (13) Up Q to the pedestal then R into line and up this steeply to a corner. (Pancho Direct Start (19) takes the yellow groove 1m R of the pedestal).

2. 28m (13) The corner then dodgy rock on the L.

Start 2m L of Pedro. Wall to bushy ledge, thin black crack, wall.

Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires.

Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

Boulder the start.

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.

Up Jason then R along traverse line to Mind Games. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.

A really good route, one of the most pleasant 18s at Arapiles. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and up thin line.

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky. Start 1m R of Golden Fleece. Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.

Start as for Mind Games. Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.

Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.

Start 3m right of Mind Games. The seam, then join the finish of Beautiful Loser.

The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016.

An "adds nothing" R to L girdle best not written up in the first place. See notes for details.

There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward.

The wall just right of Dylan.

The middle chimney, starting 2m right of Dylan.

The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.

This line is in a hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' (this is above Jason on Golden Fleece Wall) and takes the obvious crack on the right (facing in) wall.

Strongly suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same.

This climb is up behind Golden Fleece Wall, starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of Dylan.

Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulge, finger-crack and on to top.

Start just left of Moby Dick. Scramble up L then traverse R once level with the little roof. Now straight up to a dyno finish.

The obvious flake crack on the wall facing Golden Fleece Wall.

The featureless arete just right of Moby Dick. Poor protection.

The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than The Rack. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.

First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming. Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.

Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope.

Short line. Start 3m L of TSSO.

This squeezed-in face was toproped then soloed by Mudie, then retrobolted by others. The bolts were then removed so it is effectively a solo. Watch out for the loose looking blocks at the top. Start 1.5m L of TSSO.

Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The main chalked crack line on this wall.

The block and seam. Start 1m R of TSSO.

Originally described as SSO RHV. Start as for The Stoat Steps Out. Up 3m traverse R, crossing Bunyip, for 5m and then up.

Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top! Starts right of Bunyip and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.

The crack then the arete.

Start: Start 2m L of D.

The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975.

As usual, make sure of your gear when you're this close to the ground. The L crack on the pillar.

The R crack.

The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky.

Toothless. Another easy line. Start left of With an F!

The arete left of Duck Off.

Start in the gully R of Bam Bam, on the L wall. Thin crack to ledge.

Rambo would've climbed 32 if he'd had HB's mo.

Start 2m L GC.

Crack, seam, ramp, wall.

The weakness in the slab then L into chimney

Start: Start just L of 'Coyote'.