Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 21st Jun 2015 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing Pink Floyd Wall | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Camalot
![]() | 17m | ||||
4 tri-cams and 2 nuts. Cause the FA used 5 cams -- I had to be different. (Didn't rack any cams for the climb.)
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Sun 12th Apr 2015 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.3 |
★ Broken Corner
![]() | 9m | Average | |||
While it doesn't look from the ground like it will protect well, it actually does.
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Sun 2nd Nov 2014 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.1 |
K5
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I actually started at the far right end of the ramp, near the start of Back to the Wall, up the ramp, across the ledge, and up. Nice little warm up.
Called it a red-point since while I've never climbed this climb per se, I've climbed most bits of it as part of other climbs. |
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Sun 28th Sep 2014 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
5.3 |
★★ Arachnophobia
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This goes surprisingly well on gear, though it may not look it. Placements are not always obvious, but can be found, and there are lots.
Only problem is actually finding it dry enough to lead. |
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Sat 20th Sep 2014 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Reaper Buttress | ||||||
5.5 |
The other dihedral
![]() | 8m | ||||
I've bailed to this line when trying to lead Mr Toady's a couple times -- but this time I went after it from the bottom. The start is trickier than I expected.
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Sun 3rd Aug 2014 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Combustion Lente
![]() | 65m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to label... re-climbing of the first pitch, but on-sight of the 2nd pitch... call it a red-point? Sure.
First pitch is a great mix of crack and face climbing, with a lot of interesting moves. Gear is a bit tricky lower down, then solid higher up. 2nd pitch starts ugly, but then good climbing -- mostly slab, rock-overs and mantles onto slipping ledges with less-than-solid hands or feet. Gear is mostly small, but generally there (suplemented by a few bolts) when needed. |
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Sat 26th Jul 2014 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.6 |
★ Madame la Marquise
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
It was dry this time, making the top an easier finish.
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Sun 22nd Jun 2014 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.3 |
★ Bill le Crapaud
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
First placement is quite high, almost 1/2 way up the climb -- but placements are decent. (Guide lists as TR.)
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Sat 21st Jun 2014 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Ethics Police
![]() | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I remembered how to do the crux from previous try, so it went pretty well. A good climb.
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Sat 31st May 2014 - Calabogie | ||||||
Calabogie Main Cliff 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.6 |
★ Nutty Nuts ((Slab right of Flaky Flake))
![]() | 17m | Average | |||
Another climb with adequate, rather than good, gear. Also probably PG. Crux section is protected by a smallish nut that isn't particularly deeply set.
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Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Corruption Buttress | ||||||
5.6 |
★ Morning Crack
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Good climbing with good gear. I decided to finish up then right to the anchors used by "Enron" (which seemed natural) rather than directly right to the obvious anchors on the face. They may be intended for "Minor Threat". The ledge for the last few moves was soaking wet and slimy, making them a bit more exciting than they might be dry.
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Sun 20th Oct 2013 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Banana Republic | ||||||
5.4 |
★★ Cinch Crack
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead it at the end of the day. The over-hanging lay-back crack section is really intimidating on a 5.4. It does protect well.
At end of crack, step right to small triangular ledge -- there are two pitons at the back, to rappel off. |
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Sat 28th Sep 2013 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Lavender
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally got the lead clean. An awesome route, with 3 different crux points of different types and a lot of good climbing in between.
Pulled more directly over the initial overhang to the jugs, rather than traversing a long way right. |
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Sat 27th Jul 2013 - Langdale | ||||||
Langdale Pikes Raven Crag East Raven Crag | ||||||
VS 4c VS 4c |
★★ Ophidia
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
And, went back for the red-point while there. Climbed very smoothly and well on lead, too.
Anchors are well back from the edge, across grass. Consider bringing gear to extend very long if setting up a top-rope for others. |
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Sat 13th Jul 2013 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Le Castor Bricoleur
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Went back to get the red-point. Hesitated a bit at the moves off the ledge, but otherwise it went quite smoothly. With a more extensive rack than last time I lead it, I felt a lot more confident in the protection I put in.
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Wed 19th Dec 2012 - Joshua Tree National Park | ||||||
Barker Dam Area Hike Gully - right side | ||||||
5.1 |
★★ Dike
![]() | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
An easy and fun free solo.
(It might take gear, I didn't really look.) |
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Sat 27th Oct 2012 - Adirondacks | ||||||
Keene Chapel Pond Slab | ||||||
5.6 5.5 PG |
★★ Regular Route
![]() | 240m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Group of 3, lead whole thing, trailing second rope. Rock was damp for much of first pitch, and wet in places. Did V4 (5.6) for pitch 4 since the start of the main variant was wet. Did some harder (probably 5.4) variant for Pitch 6, too. Lots of fun, didn't manage to find the no-rappel descent.
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Sat 20th Oct 2012 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.3 |
★ Inside Corner
![]() | 15m | ||||
Sun 16th Sep 2012 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Paroi du Lac | ||||||
5.6 5.9 |
★ Tigre des bois
![]() | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Trusted my gear enough to lead it this time. Not hard, just a couple committing feeling moves.
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Wed 12th Sep 2012 - Calabogie | ||||||
Calabogie Main Cliff 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.6 |
★ Minutes Away ((unknown 1))
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Gear isn't great, especially lower down, but is adequate. Probably PG. Generally smaller stuff.
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Sun 29th Jul 2012 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Hanibal Lecter
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was very happy to get back and lead this. Takes gear well.
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Sat 21st Jul 2012 - Calabogie | ||||||
Calabogie Main Cliff Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.5 5.6 |
★ Calabogie Sunset
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The hardest moves are in the initial section (first two bolts), then mostly easy cruising and maybe one more move right near the anchors.
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Sat 30th Jun 2012 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 |
★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle (Dave Direct)
![]() | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A fun variation on Dave, Dave that definitely ups the grade a couple notches, but at least the (new) crux is reasonably well protected.
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Sat 26th May 2012 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
M & M | ||||||
5.8 |
★★★ M&M
![]() | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got the red point on my 2nd lead attempt. No particular move is, really, harder than 5.7 or so, but it is continuously sustained at that level for most of the climb, and far harder if you're not comfortable with crack techniques.
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Sat 7th Apr 2012 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 |
★★★ Peggy
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I finally got around to leading it. It is a bit intimidating to lead as the crux of the climb is the opening moves off the ground onto the first ramp. But, I placed a couple nuts and went for it. In fact, I didn't place a non-passive piece on the entire climb.
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Sun 6th Nov 2011 - Calabogie | ||||||
Calabogie Main Cliff 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
Class 4 |
2nd Easy Way Down
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I've been up and down this so many times... almost always soloing, often in my hiking boots. I have no idea when the first time was... but I know I did it last Sunday.
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Sun 5th Jun 2011 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Cave Wall | ||||||
5.6 |
★★ Neruda
![]() | 8m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally got the red-point on this route. While short, it is a real struggle at its grade -- I've climbed 5.10a routes that were easier.
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Sat 7th May 2011 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Farm Rock | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Epinephrine
![]() | 27m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got the red-point! This face is hard for me, broke an ankle on it a couple years previously.
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Sat 9th Apr 2011 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Mont King | ||||||
5.4 |
★ Rocketman
![]() | 96m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start of the first pitch feels quite committing for a 5.4 climb, above gear. Rest of climb is fine.
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Fri 2nd Apr 2010 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 |
★ One Up
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A short climb with a big ledge in the middle -- why bother with pro? (The crux really isn't protectable, because it falls onto the ledge.)
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5.3 |
★ Crack and Block
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 20th Mar 2010 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Piton Highway
![]() | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.3 |
★ Back to the Wall
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pro could be better, but it's only 5.3.
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Sat 13th Mar 2010 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.3 |
★ Main Corner
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The finish feels really committing for a 5.3 if you don't know (or have forgotten) the beta.
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Sun 30th Aug 2009 - Calabogie | ||||||
Calabogie Main Cliff Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.5 5.6 |
★★ Phasers on Stun
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well protected past the opening moves and a fun lead.
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Fri 17th Jul 2009 - Calabogie | ||||||
Calabogie Main Cliff 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.4 5.5 |
★ Flaky Flake
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Fun. Easy pro for most of the route.
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