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Ascents by Matthew Holden

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 211 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan
South Face
17 Easy Traxion Action - with EM
1 17 27 Second lead by EM

Easy for the grade, but does require a lot of "climbing moves" (subtle shifting of body weight that an experienced climber would find second-nature/trivial but that total beginners would likely find quite tricky). Would be a 16 at Kangaroo Point, but it's as hard as a typical 17 at Candy Mountain or Andromeda. Given this is meant to be a great intro multi-pitch climb for beginners, I think the grade of this pitch is appropriate relative to other crags in the area popular for beginners, even though a tad soft.

2 10 20 Sport
3 12 25 Second lead by EM
4 12 26 Second lead by EM
5 14 28 Sport
6 14 28 Sport
7 15 28 Second lead by EM
Sport 180m
First multi-pitch. Rapped off pitch 7 instead of scrambling down the tourist track. Vegetation management on the rap was tricky. Scrambly approach into the first pitch may feel uncomfortable to beginners without approach/climbing shoes. Running/tennis shoes may feel a bit slipery for this class 4 scramble, especially if downclimbing it after a rap.

 
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - White Rock Conservation Area
Little White Rock Antiquity area
V0 Nought worthy Boulder 3m
V1 Modern Art Boulder 3m
V1 2 Boulder
V1 1 Boulder 3m
V2 Yogitoes Boulder 3m
V1 Cheese Curds Boulder 3m
V0 ~V0+ Gymset Boulder 4m Classic
Sat 6th May 2023 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
15 Breakfast at Tiffany's Mixed trad 18m, 5
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Pages Pinnacle
14 I'm Lichen It More Sport 20m, 8
14 I'm Lichen It Too Sport 20m
19 Gnarley Sport 18m, 10
Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Mt Ngungun
Babylon
11 As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue Sport 25m, 7
Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Mt Ngungun
Babylon
13 Quango Quagmire - with Leandro Scholz, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste Sport 18m, 7
Mon 20th Sep 2021 - Brooyar
Eagle's Nest
15 Miss Kandy Kane Sport 20m, 5 Mega Classic
This climb is exceptional for the grade. I like it better, every time I try it again. So many varied moves, and options. You can climb this route several times, without repeating a move. Try an alternative start, to the right of the crack, for a more challenging initial set of moves, and interesting transition back left to the first bolt. Even people climbing in the mid 20s can appreciate this unique easy climb.

 
14 15 Falkor (Unknown Route 1) Sport 8m Don't Bother
Unsafe, rusted, belay ring attached to a well worn, but probably ok chain, attached to brand new bolts. So strange to freshly bolt the climb, and anchor, yet reattach such a dangerous rappel set-up. Best if you top out (tricky and run out for a 14) and belay from the top to clean, or even better, pass on this one altogether.

 
Sun 19th Sep 2021 - Brooyar
Black Stump Buttresses
17 The Enticer Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
15 16 French Bandit Sport 12m, 4 Average
Mon 30th Aug 2021 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
19 Silly or Serious Sport 18m, 5
20 20 R Kiwi Sport 18m, 5
Sun 29th Aug 2021 - Brooyar
Green Lane
14 Tom's Turnips - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Andrew Rogers Trad 15m
16 New Day Rising - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Andrew Rogers Sport 15m, 3
21 Herbal Tea - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Andrew Rogers Sport 10m, 3
Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
18 Dodgy Dub - with Leandro Scholz Sport 15m, 3
16 Humungousaur - with Leandro Scholz Mixed trad 14m, 3
19 Gigolo - with Leandro Scholz Sport 13m, 3
Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Toohey Forest
Hill top area Hobo's Haven
VB Soup Kitchen Boulder 1m
VB Big Belly Boulder 1m
Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Toohey Forest
Hill top area Top of the Hill
V0 Arete Boulder 3m Good
V0 The nose Boulder 3m Good
Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan
Candy Mountain
18 Cookie Monster Sport 18m, 5 Very Good
Interesting climb. At the crux, a few bolts in, it's tempting to go left to some nice side pulls that put you in a bad position. It is best to go straight up.

 
14 Banana King Sport 12m, 5 Average
17 Lichen The Candy Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
20 Happy Pants Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
This is a nice route 2nd to 4th bolt is the challenging with nice varied climbing, and love the pinches. It's a soft 20. I found this climb no harder than cookie monster or papa smurf.

 
16 Fairy Floss Sport 18m, 6 Good
Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Brooyar
Eagle's Nest
18 Prima Diva - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste Sport 8m, 3 Average
First bolt clipped

 
15 Miss Kandy Kane - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste Sport 20m, 5 Classic
Almost an onsight (apparently I top roped this a year ago, but didn't even recognize the route. Super fun 15.

 
16 Chicken Wings - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste Sport 15m, 5
Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Brooyar
Black Stump Buttresses
19 Passage - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste Sport 15m Very Good
Was really a mix of passage and right of passage.

 
21 Sand in Your Pants - with Andrew Rogers, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste Sport 16m Very Good
Sustained, pumpy, face climbing after a tricky bouldery start (avoid the wasp nest - although wasps are small and docile). Fell 3/4 of the way up. Lots of tempting hand holds that put you in bad positions soon after. Note to self: promising 21 project.

 
20 Dreamcatcher - with Andrew Rogers, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste Sport 15m Classic
First clean top rope assent of this project. Time to start trying it on lead .

 
21 Spider Fingers - with Andrew Rogers, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste Sport 15m, 5
Couldn't finish the boulder problem statrt.

 
Sat 29th May 2021 - Brooyar
Point Pure
15 MD Sport 30m, 8 Good
19 Unleash the Swarm Sport 15m, 5
18 The Cornflake Climb Sport 27m
19 Overhanging Corner Sport 20m
16 Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad Sport 20m
16 Cold Fusion Sport 25m
Tue 4th May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area
17 Flake Crack Trad 53m
1st pitch only. Challenging near the top with no feet. Beutiful flake crack. Nice route. Fell once on top rope

 
Tue 4th May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress
18 Neil's Thing - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Sport 12m, 5
Nice, interesting first move

 
21 Cowboy Clip - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Sport 10m
Working on the first bolt.

 
17 Mr. Curly - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Sport 10m, 3
Fun route. Interesting moves to the first two bolts then smooth sailing after that. Note to self should be able to lead no problem next time.

 
19 Ancient Mariner - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Sport 12m, 5
Nice pumpy route! Got through the crux with rest but too pumped to clip the last bolt. Note to self, much more challenging than the routes I top roped here.

 
Sat 1st May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Right Hand End
17 16 Visions Fade Sport 12m, 7
Hard for a short person for the grade. Looks like holds have been torn off the wall making the first two bolts harder. Interesting start, but I couldn't get it.

 
15 Sensitive Freight Sport 8m, 5 Very Good
Loved this route with lots of options. You can make it harder by not holding on to the arete, which creates some tricky slab moves. Great beginner lead.

 
Fri 30th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff
19 Butt Nuggets Sport 20m
Gorgeous exposed route with a spectacular view and sustained climbing.

 
18 Johnny's Jalopies Sport 20m, 7
18 Mr Scumbag Sport 20m
Interesting crux which I could not get past. Hardest of the routes I tried in my opinion.

 
19 Anal Leakage Sport 15m, 6
Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Brooyar
Black Stump Buttresses
19 Unknown - with Leandro Scholz Sport 18m, 6
18 Pink Panzer - with Leandro Scholz Sport 17m, 8
Lots of good varied moves. The top has the option for both a crack climb or a more typical sport route. Top rope flash.

 
18 Annabelistic - with Leandro Scholz Sport 16m, 7
This is a nice, easy juggy lead for the grade. Interesting crux near the 4th bolt. Good to clip after grabbing the massive sidepull and resist the temptation to clip from below.

 
16 Snake Charmer - with Leandro Scholz Sport 15m, 7
19 Beyond the Black Stump - with Leandro Scholz Sport 15m
20 Dreamcatcher - with Leandro Scholz Sport 15m Classic
Nice slabby start with a crux higher up. Reminder to self, re-position the feet before going for the "L" hold.

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Brooyar
Eagle's Nest
18 Up a Rat in a Drainpipe - with Leandro Scholz Sport 20m, 7 Classic
Great big moves to jugs and flakes. Overhanging, but quite easy for an 18.

 
15 Miss Manners Sport 20m, 5
I found some of the slabby moves tricky for a 15, but a rather straightforward route.

 
Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
16 Without Council Approval Sport 18m, 5
Sun 21st Feb 2021 - Mt Ngungun
Andromeda
18 Dark Matter Sport 17m, 6 Good
The SEQ climbing guide has this climb rated at 15. The crag's grade seems a lot closer to reality at 18 [18 seems right for the soft Andromeda grades, maybe a 17 at some other crags with less foregiving grading - but no way this is a 15, with this start, in any system]. Challenging between 1st and 3rd bolt. I'd recommend anyone not regularly onsighting grade 18 climbs to clip stick the second bolt on the first go of it, especially if they're a shorter climber because its easy to have a ground fall otherwise [for short people the clipping position on the 2nd bolt is dicey, tall people can reach the 2nd bolt from close to the first bolt, so a much less scary lead for tall people]. Relatively smooth sailing past the 3rd bolt, but some slopey footholds near the top make the last bit more interesting than nearby climbs.

 
16 Coal Sack Mixed trad 17m, 2 Good
Very easy climb on top rope, so I am assuming the 16 grade is for challenging trad gear placement. I actually think "more dark matter" is harder, at 13, next door.

 
13 More Dark Matter Sport 17m, 4
Interesting start, and challenging start for a 13, given the forgiving grading at Andromeda, but after the second bolt its cruisey.

 
Thu 24th Dec 2020 - Alexandra Headland
Tide Is High
V1 V1/2 Sub-Atomic Kitten - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Boulder 2m Good
VB Formic Acid - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Boulder Good
V3 Salt in the Wound - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Boulder 3m
V1 a' girl who gives up just like that - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Boulder Good
V4 The tide is high - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers Boulder 5m Classic
Thu 10th Dec 2020 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
17 Bombadil Sport 18m, 5 Good
16 Tombstone Row Sport 18m, 5 Good
Sun 6th Dec 2020 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
18 Stoat Clips Bolts Sport 18m, 6
16 Bloody Oath Trad 18m Good
very interesting crux down low for people under 170cm. Had to do this one completely sideways. Great jugs if you find them, slightly overhung. A very interesting 16. Hard for the grade without beta.

 
17 Pterodactyl D Sport 17m, 4
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan
Slider Wall
19 Bite My Shiny, Metal Ass Sport 18m Very Good
17 Blowing Bubbles Sport 15m, 4 Good
19 Something About Sandy Sport 13m, 5 Very Good
16 The Horse Sport 12m, 4 Good
15 Such A Nice Monster Sport 15m, 4 Good
Thu 19th Nov 2020 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
18 Pterodactyl Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
8:55 min to top. Beutiful route. Getting past the second bolt is the hard bit.

 
Tue 20th Oct 2020 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
15 16 Proven Guilty (PG) (Proven Guilty) Mixed trad 100m, 2 Good
P1: Hard starting moves before quite high first opportunity to place protection. The rest of P1 isn't terrible, as there are some reasonable pieces to place. But still scary for a 14. Holds also breaking off the wall. Some interesting moves. Seconded P1 cleanly, but would not have wanted to lead it. P2: The second pitch is nuts, at least 10m runout with no obvious opportunity to place protection after the first few meters. Must be super confident on slab at a few grades above 15 before attempting this dangerous climb for the grade. Big retreat from us.

 
15 Super Size Me - with Leandro Scholz Sport 15m, 5 Good
Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Mt Beerwah
Wayne's World
19 Party Time Sport 30m, 7
Gorgeous view, easy for the grade, but nice variety of moves. 13:30 to top.

 
18 White Castle Sport 18m, 4
17 Bite Me Sport 22m, 5
3:30 to top

 
17 Party On Dude Sport 23m, 6
16 Yes Way Sport 23m, 6
12 Mr. Biggg Sport 14m, 3
Thu 24th Sep 2020 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
20 Pommy Bastard Sport 18m, 5
16 Tombstone Row Sport 18m, 5 Good
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Pages Pinnacle
15 Attack of the Marshmallows Sport 15m, 7 Good
12 min to top - onsight

 
19 Party Girls Sport 20m, 7 Good
10 min to top. I found this one easier than the two 18s next door.

 
18 Trixster Sport 18m, 7 Good
8 min to top, match on the good hold, then it's basically a pull-up, catch a fantastic hold on the right, but feels desperate until you get it. Easy once you get to the second bolt, but a very challenging start.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 211 ascents.