Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
17 Easy |
★★ Traxion Action
- with
EM
1
17
27
lead by
EM
Easy for the grade, but does require a lot of "climbing moves" (subtle shifting of body weight that an experienced climber would find second-nature/trivial but that total beginners would likely find quite tricky). Would be a 16 at Kangaroo Point, but it's as hard as a typical 17 at Candy Mountain or Andromeda. Given this is meant to be a great intro multi-pitch climb for beginners, I think the grade of this pitch is appropriate relative to other crags in the area popular for beginners, even though a tad soft.
2
10
20
3
12
25
lead by
EM
4
12
26
lead by
EM
5
14
28
6
14
28
7
15
28
lead by
EM
| 180m | ||||
First multi-pitch. Rapped off pitch 7 instead of scrambling down the tourist track. Vegetation management on the rap was tricky. Scrambly approach into the first pitch may feel uncomfortable to beginners without approach/climbing shoes. Running/tennis shoes may feel a bit slipery for this class 4 scramble, especially if downclimbing it after a rap.
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - White Rock Conservation Area | ||||||
Little White Rock Antiquity area | ||||||
V0 | ★ Nought worthy | 3m | ||||
V1 | Modern Art | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★ 2 | |||||
V1 | ★ 1 | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★ Yogitoes | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★ Cheese Curds | 3m | ||||
V0 ~V0+ | ★★ Gymset | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Breakfast at Tiffany's | 18m, 5 | ||||
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★ I'm Lichen It More | 20m, 8 | ||||
14 | ★ I'm Lichen It Too | 20m | ||||
19 | ★★ Gnarley | 18m, 10 | ||||
Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Babylon | ||||||
11 | ★ As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue | 25m, 7 | ||||
Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Babylon | ||||||
13 | ★ Quango Quagmire - with Leandro Scholz, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste | 18m, 7 | ||||
Mon 20th Sep 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
15 | ★ Miss Kandy Kane | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This climb is exceptional for the grade. I like it better, every time I try it again. So many varied moves, and options. You can climb this route several times, without repeating a move. Try an alternative start, to the right of the crack, for a more challenging initial set of moves, and interesting transition back left to the first bolt. Even people climbing in the mid 20s can appreciate this unique easy climb.
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14 15 | ★ Falkor (Unknown Route 1) | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Unsafe, rusted, belay ring attached to a well worn, but probably ok chain, attached to brand new bolts. So strange to freshly bolt the climb, and anchor, yet reattach such a dangerous rappel set-up. Best if you top out (tricky and run out for a 14) and belay from the top to clean, or even better, pass on this one altogether.
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Sun 19th Sep 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Enticer | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
15 16 | ★ French Bandit | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Mon 30th Aug 2021 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Silly or Serious | 18m, 5 | ||||
20 20 R | ★★ Kiwi | 18m, 5 | ||||
Sun 29th Aug 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
14 | ★ Tom's Turnips - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Andrew Rogers | 15m | ||||
16 | ★ New Day Rising - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Andrew Rogers | 15m, 3 | ||||
21 | ★ Herbal Tea - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Andrew Rogers | 10m, 3 | ||||
Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Dodgy Dub - with Leandro Scholz | 15m, 3 | ||||
16 | ★ Humungousaur - with Leandro Scholz | 14m, 3 | ||||
19 | ★ Gigolo - with Leandro Scholz | 13m, 3 | ||||
Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Hill top area Hobo's Haven | ||||||
VB | ★ Soup Kitchen | 1m | ||||
VB | ★ Big Belly | 1m | ||||
Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Hill top area Top of the Hill | ||||||
V0 | ★ Arete | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V0 | ★ The nose | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Candy Mountain | ||||||
18 | ★ Cookie Monster | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting climb. At the crux, a few bolts in, it's tempting to go left to some nice side pulls that put you in a bad position. It is best to go straight up.
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14 | ★ Banana King | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Lichen The Candy | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | ★ Happy Pants | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is a nice route 2nd to 4th bolt is the challenging with nice varied climbing, and love the pinches. It's a soft 20. I found this climb no harder than cookie monster or papa smurf.
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16 | ★ Fairy Floss | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
18 | ★ Prima Diva - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
First bolt clipped
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15 | ★ Miss Kandy Kane - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Almost an onsight (apparently I top roped this a year ago, but didn't even recognize the route. Super fun 15.
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16 | ★ Chicken Wings - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste | 15m, 5 | ||||
Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
19 | ★ Passage - with Nick Foulds, Andrew Rogers, Tatiana Proboste | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was really a mix of passage and right of passage.
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21 | ★ Sand in Your Pants - with Andrew Rogers, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained, pumpy, face climbing after a tricky bouldery start (avoid the wasp nest - although wasps are small and docile). Fell 3/4 of the way up. Lots of tempting hand holds that put you in bad positions soon after. Note to self: promising 21 project.
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20 | ★★ Dreamcatcher - with Andrew Rogers, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First clean top rope assent of this project. Time to start trying it on lead .
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21 | ★ Spider Fingers - with Andrew Rogers, Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste | 15m, 5 | ||||
Couldn't finish the boulder problem statrt.
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Sat 29th May 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Point Pure | ||||||
15 | ★ MD | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Unleash the Swarm | 15m, 5 | ||||
18 | ★★ The Cornflake Climb | 27m | ||||
19 | ★★ Overhanging Corner | 20m | ||||
16 | ★ Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad | 20m | ||||
16 | ★ Cold Fusion | 25m | ||||
Tue 4th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | ||||
1st pitch only. Challenging near the top with no feet. Beutiful flake crack. Nice route. Fell once on top rope
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Tue 4th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Neil's Thing - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | 12m, 5 | ||||
Nice, interesting first move
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21 | ★ Cowboy Clip - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | 10m | ||||
Working on the first bolt.
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17 | ★ Mr. Curly - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | 10m, 3 | ||||
Fun route. Interesting moves to the first two bolts then smooth sailing after that. Note to self should be able to lead no problem next time.
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19 | ★ Ancient Mariner - with Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | 12m, 5 | ||||
Nice pumpy route! Got through the crux with rest but too pumped to clip the last bolt. Note to self, much more challenging than the routes I top roped here.
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Right Hand End | ||||||
17 16 | ★★ Visions Fade | 12m, 7 | ||||
Hard for a short person for the grade. Looks like holds have been torn off the wall making the first two bolts harder. Interesting start, but I couldn't get it.
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15 | ★ Sensitive Freight | 8m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Loved this route with lots of options. You can make it harder by not holding on to the arete, which creates some tricky slab moves. Great beginner lead.
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Fri 30th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★ Butt Nuggets | 20m | ||||
Gorgeous exposed route with a spectacular view and sustained climbing.
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18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies | 20m, 7 | ||||
18 | ★ Mr Scumbag | 20m | ||||
Interesting crux which I could not get past. Hardest of the routes I tried in my opinion.
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19 | ★ Anal Leakage | 15m, 6 | ||||
Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
19 | ★ Unknown - with Leandro Scholz | 18m, 6 | ||||
18 | ★★ Pink Panzer - with Leandro Scholz | 17m, 8 | ||||
Lots of good varied moves. The top has the option for both a crack climb or a more typical sport route. Top rope flash.
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18 | ★★ Annabelistic - with Leandro Scholz | 16m, 7 | ||||
This is a nice, easy juggy lead for the grade. Interesting crux near the 4th bolt. Good to clip after grabbing the massive sidepull and resist the temptation to clip from below.
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16 | ★ Snake Charmer - with Leandro Scholz | 15m, 7 | ||||
19 | ★★ Beyond the Black Stump - with Leandro Scholz | 15m | ||||
20 | ★★ Dreamcatcher - with Leandro Scholz | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice slabby start with a crux higher up. Reminder to self, re-position the feet before going for the "L" hold.
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
18 | ★★ Up a Rat in a Drainpipe - with Leandro Scholz | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great big moves to jugs and flakes. Overhanging, but quite easy for an 18.
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15 | ★ Miss Manners | 20m, 5 | ||||
I found some of the slabby moves tricky for a 15, but a rather straightforward route.
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Without Council Approval | 18m, 5 | ||||
Sun 21st Feb 2021 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
18 | ★ Dark Matter | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
The SEQ climbing guide has this climb rated at 15. The crag's grade seems a lot closer to reality at 18 [18 seems right for the soft Andromeda grades, maybe a 17 at some other crags with less foregiving grading - but no way this is a 15, with this start, in any system]. Challenging between 1st and 3rd bolt. I'd recommend anyone not regularly onsighting grade 18 climbs to clip stick the second bolt on the first go of it, especially if they're a shorter climber because its easy to have a ground fall otherwise [for short people the clipping position on the 2nd bolt is dicey, tall people can reach the 2nd bolt from close to the first bolt, so a much less scary lead for tall people]. Relatively smooth sailing past the 3rd bolt, but some slopey footholds near the top make the last bit more interesting than nearby climbs.
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16 | ★ Coal Sack | 17m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Very easy climb on top rope, so I am assuming the 16 grade is for challenging trad gear placement. I actually think "more dark matter" is harder, at 13, next door.
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13 | ★ More Dark Matter | 17m, 4 | ||||
Interesting start, and challenging start for a 13, given the forgiving grading at Andromeda, but after the second bolt its cruisey.
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Thu 24th Dec 2020 - Alexandra Headland | ||||||
Tide Is High | ||||||
V1 V1/2 | ★★ Sub-Atomic Kitten - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | 2m | ★ Good | |||
VB | ★ Formic Acid - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | ★ Good | ||||
V3 | ★★ Salt in the Wound - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★ a' girl who gives up just like that - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | ★ Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ The tide is high - with Nick Foulds, Tatiana Proboste, Leandro Scholz, Andrew Rogers | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 10th Dec 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Bombadil | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 6th Dec 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts | 18m, 6 | ||||
16 | ★ Bloody Oath | 18m | ★ Good | |||
very interesting crux down low for people under 170cm. Had to do this one completely sideways. Great jugs if you find them, slightly overhung. A very interesting 16. Hard for the grade without beta.
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17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | ||||
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Bite My Shiny, Metal Ass | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★ Blowing Bubbles | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Something About Sandy | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★ The Horse | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Such A Nice Monster | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 19th Nov 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
8:55 min to top. Beutiful route. Getting past the second bolt is the hard bit.
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Tue 20th Oct 2020 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Short Cool Ones Wall | ||||||
15 16 | ★ Proven Guilty (PG) (Proven Guilty) | 100m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
P1: Hard starting moves before quite high first opportunity to place protection. The rest of P1 isn't terrible, as there are some reasonable pieces to place. But still scary for a 14. Holds also breaking off the wall. Some interesting moves. Seconded P1 cleanly, but would not have wanted to lead it. P2: The second pitch is nuts, at least 10m runout with no obvious opportunity to place protection after the first few meters. Must be super confident on slab at a few grades above 15 before attempting this dangerous climb for the grade. Big retreat from us.
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15 | ★ Super Size Me - with Leandro Scholz | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Wayne's World | ||||||
19 | ★ Party Time | 30m, 7 | ||||
Gorgeous view, easy for the grade, but nice variety of moves. 13:30 to top.
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18 | ★★ White Castle | 18m, 4 | ||||
17 | ★ Bite Me | 22m, 5 | ||||
3:30 to top
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17 | ★★ Party On Dude | 23m, 6 | ||||
16 | ★ Yes Way | 23m, 6 | ||||
12 | ★ Mr. Biggg | 14m, 3 | ||||
Thu 24th Sep 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Pommy Bastard | 18m, 5 | ||||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
15 | ★ Attack of the Marshmallows | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
12 min to top - onsight
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19 | ★ Party Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
10 min to top. I found this one easier than the two 18s next door.
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18 | ★ Trixster | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
8 min to top, match on the good hold, then it's basically a pull-up, catch a fantastic hold on the right, but feels desperate until you get it. Easy once you get to the second bolt, but a very challenging start.
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