Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 11th May 2024 - Kanata (Tremblant) | ||||||
Secteur Dallecoolique | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Go Godasse | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
One little foot slip!
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot. | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
One fall because I screwed up the beta at the crux.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Geraki Wave | ||||||
6b | (new bolts left of Krousma) | 17m, 8 | ||||
Did all the moves, but took several tries at the crux.
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Dornröschen | ||||||
6b+ ~6b | ★★ Egon | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed easier than Egon to the left, and better climbing and better bolting.
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Yvonne | 14m | ★ Good | |||
At least one of the guide-books calls this 6b+. It would not be a comfortable lead unless confident at the grade, as the bolting is a bit sparse by local standards.
I got all the moves -- but with lots of falls along the way. |
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Agios Petros | ||||||
Zonaga | ||||||
6a | ★★ Marianna | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I just couldn't read the moves fast enough without pumping, AFTER the crux. I was two moves from the no-hands rest. Excellent climb, and I'm sure I could red-point it, if I ever climb it again, since I'd know enough of the moves to not pump out as quickly.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
sigh one fall at the crux.
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5.7 ~5.8 | ★ La Belle de Cadix | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
It has gotten more and more polished.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ L'Entre Deux | 22m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall at the top bulge, because I missed finding a foot out to the left. Once I noticed it, finished smoothly.
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Wabun Lake | ||||||
Lake Cliff aka Ant Hill | ||||||
5.10b Easy | ★ Sparklepuff | 22m, 7 | ||||
Failed to figure out the finish, and took several lead falls trying. Probably 5.10b.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Lake Cliff Left Side | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Shorty’s Revenge | 24m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
While it took me a try or two at the crux, the rest was fine, and I think I've got beta that will go smoothly next time. So, on lead next time.
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Manuels | ||||||
Baby Face | ||||||
5.9 Hard | Colic | 10m, 4 | ||||
Harder than it looks from the ground.
I think I may have cleaned the "loose wedge" that is warned of in the description. |
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Flatrock | ||||||
Main Face | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Creationism | 23m, 7 | ||||
Failed to read the downward right traverse.
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | ||||||
Weather Wall | ||||||
5.8 Hard | ★★ Walking on Sunshine | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | ||||||
Geometry Wall | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Gee I'm A Tree | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pulled all the moves, but linking... this is the antithesis of my climbing style, nearly continually over-hanging with minimal/no rests that aren't still hanging weight on your arms on better holds. Lots of jugs, though. If I got the sequences wired, maybe red-pointable, as I'd not waste as much energy figuring it out. Bolting was nice, though -- never scary.
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | ||||||
Tiger Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Richard Parker | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Having done it once, I think I could red-point this -- nothing I can't pull cleanly, and I think enough rests along the way.
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | ||||||
Tiger Slabs | ||||||
5.10a Hard | ★★ Speaking of Curvature | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought this was 10d from mistaken guidebook interpretation, so took a few times to read the route, but never felt like I had really needed to, and with it as 10a, that makes sense. Oh well, if I get the change I'll try for the red-point.
Climbing is quite good, but really needs an anchor. |
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Eagle's Nest | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Killer Pillar | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le fou | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Maudit Fou - Pitch 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Easy Terms | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Not my best try.
|
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | ||||||
5.8 Hard | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
It was somewhat wet, and I got some air time.
|
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Bolton | ||||||
Upper West South End | ||||||
5.10a Hard | ★ Statler-Waldorf Route | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Private Property | 24m, 8 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ It's Not a Cruise | 9m, 4 | ||||
Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Mini Super | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Pimpanada | 27m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 17th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Motarola | 26m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Current guide says 10d, but 10c seem fair.
|
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Weir | ||||||
Mur de l'ouest Ionescu | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Carnage d'Acier | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Wasn't hard -- I just didn't spot the hold I needed. Twice.
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5.10b | ★★ Kriten | 18m, 6 | Average | |||
Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Puy Chalvin | ||||||
Sector 1 | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Mission impossible | 17m, 7 | ||||
A few takes, but I got up it.
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Rocher Baron | ||||||
La Sieste au soleil | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ Mi-Noel | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell off it. Again.
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6b | ★★ la Fureur de vaincre | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One fall. Guide claims this is 6a -- but 6b seems quite reasonable. Sustained steep climbing, a bit hard to read, and not on jugs the whole way.
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Mon 1st Aug 2022 - Kanata (Tremblant) | ||||||
Secteur Dallecoolique | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Go Godasse | 26m, 10 | Average | |||
I did not have the shoes to deal with the thin edges in the early crux.
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Saint-Alph | ||||||
Cronos | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Modération | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Vallée Perdue (center left) | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ (slab and roof) | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Lots of hang-dogging.
|
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Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
One take, found the foot-hold, continued clean.
|
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Bunch of falls on this while I tried to work out the beta at the crux.
The hardest move on this is probably about as hard as the hardest move on Slab-o-doom, but SLab-o-doom has a lot more of those moves in a row. Still, I think this is a solid 5.9+. Just wish The Crag would let me set that as a grade. |
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5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Definitely harder than Slab-o-Doom; so 10b seems fair.
And some of the holds are really sharp. Actually, that's Lower Cliff -- generally the sharpest rock at Lac Sam. |
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Rite de passage | 17m, 6 | Average | |||
Slipped near the start; didn't bother lowering and restartng.
|
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Sun 29th May 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Le côté obscur de la force | 27m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I got on this having counted bolt lines, and so thinking it was Trench Warfare (5.8+). My friends, it was not 5.8+.
Hang dog is an adequate description -- one could say I fell up the crux section. |
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Nocturnal Tendencies | 16m, 6 | Average | |||
Red-point attempt. On fall at the final crux dyno. Got it on the 2nd try.
|
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Microburst | 10m, 4 | ||||
Hang-dog TR. But I found a new hold at the crux which might make it 5.10b rather than 5.10c.
|
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5.10b | (Bart's project) | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
Opening is hard, upper part is harder. Maybe 10c? I cheated, doing one transfer with aid of the rope.
|
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Mont Rigaud | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Tournesol | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Easy at the bottom, hard at the top.
|
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5.8 | ★ Brûle pour Ciel | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Made a mistake in choosing the right path and got into trouble.
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★★ Rock Hugger | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a fall on he FA attempt when a chunk of rock came off in my hands... managed to hug it, rather than drop it on my belayer, though. So, that's good. Of course, it did result in a couple people wondering why I shouted "rock" and nothing actually came down.
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Fri 8th Apr 2022 - Sella | ||||||
La Moleta Marion | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ CoronaBanana | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I had no idea how hard this was before getting on it, and it was a struggle -- lots of falls, some rope burn, some scraped fingers, but I made it. I was a bit tired before starting it, very tired when done.
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Wed 6th Apr 2022 - Elda / Petrer | ||||||
Intermedio | ||||||
6a | ★★ No me toques el chouchou | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Easy, easy, easy, ok, HARD, easy.
Pulling out of the big roof at the top of the big hole was just a hard roof pull, and I didn't have the oomph. Might have gone ok if it wasn't climb 10 of the day. |
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Wed 6th Apr 2022 - Elda / Petrer | ||||||
Clásico | ||||||
6a | ★★ [unknown new route 1] | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
It looked climbable, and was closely bolted, so I went for it. It was hard, I came off at two places, and rested on the bolt at another.
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Sat 23rd Oct 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ City Folk | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
sigh fell off the crux again. Got it fine the 2nd time.
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Tue 12th Oct 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Fogged Up | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not really Fogged Up/Puppies, but TRed the roofs to the left off the same anchor. Fun climbing, probably 5.9, I just need to take a day off work, come back and clean and bolt it.
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Lucky Luke | 24m, 10 | Average | |||
Try to pull the crux like a crack -- straight on, finger locks, but fell. Laid-back from the left, and it just went.
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Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Tampon Applicator | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second with rest and one point of aid. With work, I might figure my way through the crux.
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Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Fogged Up | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Trying some alternate (harder) beta for fun... but ended in failure.
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Lemon Technique | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried some variations to make it harder...not so successfully.
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Sat 18th Sep 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Cosmic Teacup | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Not careful enough cause I was on TR.
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Fri 17th Sep 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot. | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
sigh fell. Oh well, lead falls are good for me, right?
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Sat 11th Sep 2021 - Eagle's Nest | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Unknown 7 | 23m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn't find either the 5.9 or 5.10a "move left" choices.
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Lac Boisseau | ||||||
Upper Tiers | ||||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★ Carmen | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The start is noticeably harder than the rest.
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Lac Boisseau | ||||||
Three Sister's | ||||||
5.10c | ★ La salope | 22m, 9 | Average | |||
A few falls working the crux.
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Tue 31st Aug 2021 - Mont Rigaud | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
5.10- | ★★ Sidewinder | 16m | ★ Good | |||
A couple falls, but I think I got all the moves. Some day I'm going to get this wired enough to lead it... hopefully before it gets too polished to lead.
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Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le fou | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Lollypops - Pitch 1 | 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 |
★★ Le centenaire (Le centenaire P1)
1
5.8
75m
| 75m, 8 | Average | |||
Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
Getting polished.
As a popular "easy" sport in the Canyon, especially as it is close to the entrance, this isn't entirely surprising. But the crux is probably closer to 5.9 now than 5.8-. |
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Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I was tired, this was awful, possibly my worst ever ascent of The Hulk.
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Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Rav - 4 | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did the short version, as we'd already climbed most of the shared slab with La Valse...
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Fri 2nd Jul 2021 - Paroi Elephant | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Oeil de Lynx | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Caméléon | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky, but ran out of steam at the final bulge.
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Thu 1st Jul 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Alice Roadside | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Took a couple tries to find the good hold.
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Sun 6th Jun 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ City Folk | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Couldn't even TR it to clean the anchor. Hauled on the rope a bit.
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Sat 29th May 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Cirrus | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Another attempt -- but I think I may have figured out some useful beta. Might get it on my next try.
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Sat 15th May 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Belay that Order | 8m | Average | |||
Very inconsistent -- super-hard start, then easy slab.
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Sun 9th May 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Cumulonimbus | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
3 tries, but managed to finally pull the roof.
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5.10b | ★★ Updraft | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
This one took three tries to pull the initial bulge. I think I finally found some beta... by going around the corner to the right.
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Sun 2nd May 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
Didn't find the right beta at the first crux.
|
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still not figuring out the crux fast enough before I run out of hold-on. The headwall is steeper than it looks from the base.
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Assimilation | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Hang dog. Again.
Bolt 2->3 crux. |
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Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 18th Mar 2021 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | ||||||
5.9 | ★ (unkown) | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Bad lead... but fun enough on TR. On fall, which is better than usual for me.
|
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5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 10th Nov 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Coda | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to pull on a draw past one move.
|
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5.9 | ★ (unkown) | 14m, 4 | Average | |||
Not a bad TR, but I wouldn't want to lead it if there was any chance of falling.
|
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Sat 24th Oct 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Boulder Dash | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
It was wet -- slipped off a wet hold.
|
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
End of the day, tried the hard beta - should've just done the easier choice.
|
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Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.10a ~5.8 | ★ Ovipositor | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
Hung a couple times clearing the roof. The rock is sharp at that point, or felt especially so with cold fingers on a chilly morning.
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Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Assimilation | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Took a few tries to work out the crux.
|
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Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Updraft | 20m, 9 | ||||
Cheated past the first roof crux. Should be good climbing once cleaned. (Was climbing with Simon, it's his project.)
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5.10a | ★★ Cirrus | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, but work the whole way.
|
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Sun 9th Aug 2020 - Lac Gervais | ||||||
Multipitch Area (Left side) | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Met du pep dans ta grimpette | 62m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lead P2 -- one hang.
|
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - La montagne du Tranchant | ||||||
Sector du Centre - La vire | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Mystère (Mystère P1)
1
5.8
32m
| 32m, 19 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hung on one bolt, when for a bit of a whipper another place. Very hard for a 5.8 -- and very long.
|
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Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Lac Gervais | ||||||
Multipitch Area (Left side) | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Petit Poo et Betty Boop | 71m, 25 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Follow P1, lead with fall P2 & P3. I'm so out of climbing shape from Covid.
|
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Sun 19th Jul 2020 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ (in progress 1) | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still dirty, but I think this may end up being a crag-classic.
|
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Sat 23rd May 2020 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ (Arnor) | 45m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a fall -- mostly because my rope needed to be flicked over something in the middle of the crux.
|
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Wed 19th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Virgin Canyon Lower Virgin Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Selam | 39m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bad beta choice for clipping a bolt near the end.
|
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Tue 18th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Las Estrellas Club Mex Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Gusada Negra Linkup Supernova | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell 1.5m from ancohr. Doh - so close.
|
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Fri 3rd Jan 2020 - Mogote del Valle | ||||||
Arista Filo de Cuchilla | ||||||
6a | ★★ Marcelino Pan, y se Vino | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall at first bolt -- tried to go up the crack through the overhang (damn route description in book) rather than climbing right of that.
|