Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Oatley Park | |||||
15 | ★ CrustCrust
Starts at white square left of Bahs Crack. Head up face, past two rusty old pitons (clip at your peril) and over somewhat spicy roof to finish. Two rusty carrots up top but can extend anchor to tree next to railing with a bunch of long slings. | 6m | |||
15 | ★ Bah's Crack
Up juicy hand crack between Crustcrust and Dumbpump. Stay off right face and get upon the roof crack. Belay off tree as for Dumbpump. FA: Tom Bes | 6m | |||
Alfords Point Alfords Point Main Area | |||||
15 | ★ Sideline Jack
Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off. | 14m, 6 | |||
Illawong | |||||
15 | ★ Troada
Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F. Start: As for F. FA: P. Faill & D. Stone, 1992 | 10m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Olympic Spirit
10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain. | 8m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Blood from the Territory
Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB. Start: Right of the right hand crack. FA: David Barnes, 2000 | 8m | |||
The Cathedral The Wedges | |||||
V0 | Thrown Floo Powder
Stand start on head height horns. Juggy top out Set: Tanner Graham FA: Lachlan S | 2m | |||
V0 | Gutscraper Ridge
Up left side of tombstone boulder | 5m | |||
V0 | Jugs
right side of slab, starting on jugs | 4m | |||
The Cathedral Main Crag | |||||
15 | ★ Axe Grinder
A route on its own and the final meters of 'The Shute'. Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff and climb out. " I would not trust the old rusty carrots for the hanging belay, but there are some new RBs you could setup a hanging belay with some slings of different sizes. " 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there. FA: Dave Barnes, 1989 | 8m | |||
Bangor West | |||||
15 | Lean Too
Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of "Dorothy May" The first 4m direct looks 20 I reckon, probably starts on the jugs of Reno | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ Passive
Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start. FA: Mikl Law Set: Michael Law | 10m | |||
15 | ★★ Andrew's Bulge
Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic FA: Peter Faill | 8m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Ali
| 5m | |||
15 | Slobbery Dog
| 6m | |||
Koorabar | |||||
15 | Lost and Found
Short crack right of MMC, through rooflet and follow crack up to a mantle with single u bolt lower off next to old carrot. FA: unknown | 8m | |||
Kayak Krag | |||||
V0 | ★★ Lil Crack
The shortest splitter in Sydney. Thin hands in this heartbreakingly short parallel crack. For full tick, sit start on the boulder in front of it. and don't use the big foot on the ledge. FA: Tom Bes, Nov 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | Moss Bros
Up thin ledges to slopey topout. Mossy. FA: Tom Bes, Nov 2020 | 3m | |||
Yates Yard | |||||
V0 | ★ Uranus
Sit start in scoop. Climb up through the large crack, top out via left hand arete FA: Sam Fisher Set: Sam Fisher | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ The Unbeatable High
On the LED block. Start just round the corner on low right holds of arete (as in picture). move up and cross the wall at its mid point enjoying all the holds of the other climbs. top out left arete. down climb tree is recommended. FA: Tom Bes, 30 Sep 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★ Chute Up
head up the chute of tufas in between the arete and Big Palmer face FA: Tom Bes, 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★ Pristine Slab
Great easy boulder on lovely holds. Sit start on low jug and move up series of nice large holds. | ||||
V0 | Good Time Climb
FA: Sam Fisher Set: Sam Fisher | ||||
Bangor Blocs Blocs | |||||
V0 | Mount Celeste
Just to the left of bloc A. Smear your way up the tiny mountain face to the peak. FA: Rohan Nowell, 2022 | ||||
V0 | ★ Jug-a-thon
Nice jugging. Sitstart in big scoop and up. FFA: Cam Taylor | 5m | |||
V0 | Whatever
Sitstart and ignore jugs | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Warmup Wendy
Sitstart and up | 4m | |||
Bonnet Bay | |||||
15 | ★ The Easy Root
Starts on far right of this wall at easy crack. At top of blocky crack go up a crack on the arête above. Traverse around or climb over boulder to tree | 10m | |||
15 | ★ The Chimney
Climb the obvious bolted chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 12m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ The Jungle Book
Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts | 9m, 3 | |||
Walrus Rocks (bouldering) | |||||
V0 | ★ Braxton Hicks
Practice for the real thing. The left side of the first little cliff on the walk-in path. | 4m | |||
Closed Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) Fig Tree Walls | |||||
V0 | Frost Fruit
| ||||
V0 | Holey Moley
| ||||
Janali | |||||
15 | ★ Music of the Night
A nice clean featured scoop and great example of a quality Shire mini route. Up the right edge of scoop and finish up fun arête. FA: Paul Wheeler, 1995 | 8m, 3 | |||
Spark Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ Face
Sit start | ||||
V0 | ★★ Right Side of Scoop
Sit start | ||||
The School (Bouldering) | |||||
V0 | Pocket Lint (Slight Return)
Slabby rock on far left of crag. Start with an undercling with R hand and nothing else above lower shelf. Move up using small pockets and mantle out. Left arête is off. FA: Tom Bes, 7 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V0 | Bird Up!
Step onto lower shelf and move up slab and top out over rocks directly above. Crack, rocks and tree on the right are out. Set: Tom Bes | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ High Traverse
Good warm-up pumper. Starts from the far left of the cliff on black slabs, and traverses the high juggy break to the major tree. Top out with care. | 10m | |||
V0 | Slabby Black Face
Easiest line here up slabby black face. | 5m | |||
Jannali Reserve | |||||
V0 | ★ and Jalad
start on low break and blunt edge. move up arete. FA: Tom Beswetherick | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Up and Easy
Start as for 'Joe's Traverse' and continue straight up to top out. FA: Unknown | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ Storm
Sit start in undercling at the base of the crack and climb straight up, topping out as for 'X Wall' Alternate: Sit start in undercling then climb the crack pure for about the same grade. Set: Phillip Booth FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Rogue
Sit start in middle of X Wall with hands on the scoopy ledge and go straight up keeping left and out of the crack. Set: Phillip Booth FA: Unknown | 5m | |||
V0 | ★★ depths of time
Sit start from juggy undercling in front of the tree. Up a move or two then traverse right then up the crack. FA: Unknown | 5m | |||
V0 | ★★ Juggy Warm Up Vertical
Options abound. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Central Jug
Another nice easy jug filled boulder. | ||||
V0 | ★★ Jug Jug
Start on the double jugs or just below. Move up through more big reassuring jugs for a lovely topout. FA: Tom Bes, 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★ Pokemon
Nice side pull to start and up through finger jug topout FA: Tom Bes, 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★ Na Na Na (Suprise)
start at base of ramped corner, follow it up FA: Tom Bes, 2023 | ||||
V0 | Corned Flakes
up leftward series of big flakes FA: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023 | ||||
The Ridge Boulders Sunset Lover Area | |||||
V0 | Enjoy the view
Stand start straight up | ||||
Lucas Heights | |||||
15 | Party Rough Tongue
From belay ledge DBB climb short corner (cams) then up juggy face and slab above (rusty BR). FA: David Barnes, 1994 | 7m, 1 | |||
V0 | Functional Histone Antibody Fragments Traverse
Right to left traverse of the awesome horizontal break starting at the base of Fission Trip. A good little pump. FA: Heath Black, 2014 | 10m | |||
Heathcote Weir | |||||
15 | A Direct Start
Start as for A, layback the crack to join A | 12m | |||
Sierra Road Socially Distant Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★★ Ant Bite
Sit start on a good pocket, trend up right on the arete to a blank top out. FA: James Brandtman | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Pocket Full of Kryptonite
Lowish start on the two pockets, then straight up to the top. FA: James Brandtman | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Reactorvision
Sit start on an obvious flake and follow it straight up to the top. FA: James Brandtman | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Right On Time
Sit start on a good edge, follow the arete up to a top out jug. FA: James Brandtman | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Stubby Stash
Sit start as for ROT, straight up to the obvious horizontal break and traverse left across the whole bloc, and finish as for AB. FA: James Brandtman | 10m | |||
Sierra Road | |||||
V0 - 1 | ★ Yeehaw
Sit start with left in the pocket and right in the underling. Right one move wonder to the top and don't forget to say "Yeehaw!" As you mantle. FA: Cinta Yong, 3 Dec 2022 | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Waterboardia
Lowish start under low right hand arete with left hand in sidepulls. Move up and left to the middle of the face, then up. Sit start variant: Start matched on the right hand arete/undercling. Awkward thrutchy move to the pocket sidepull probably adds a grade. FA: James Brandtman | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Naught for One
Sit start under nose as per 'Relentless', straight up on good holds. FA: Cameron Kirk | ||||
V0 | ★ Jug 'n' Chill
Tricky start on good holds with a simple second half. Just don't look down. FA: Jessica Rutherford | ||||
The Wastelands Stray Cat's Crag | |||||
15 | Love Letters From Tasmania
Up the crack. New lower offs 2021. FA: M.Fox, 1992 | 8m | |||
15 | Swimming in a Sea of Sand
Heady trad slabbing for a 15. New lower offs 2021. FA: M.Fox, 1992 | 8m | |||
The Wastelands Aunty Dot's | |||||
15 | Highway Neanderthal
left of V FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 7m, 2 | |||
The Wastelands Rainbow Wall Right Side | |||||
15 | Pyro Monkey
left of the scrub FA: S. Johnson, 1991 | 7m | |||
The Wastelands Rainbow Wall Main Area | |||||
15 | Pot of Gold
At far right end of Rainbow Wall, at ramp. A bit runout. Up thin wall to break, then left up ramp and traverse horizontal break left (piton on Sweet Red Wine) to anchors on Fatboy. FA: Peter Monks, 1997 | 9m | |||
The Wastelands Bumbly Buttress Left Side | |||||
15 | Snowbound
Straight up to the cave, traverse left and continue to top. Requires cams FA: M. Fonda, 1990 | 9m | |||
The Wastelands Cave Rock | |||||
15 | Cowboy Caviar
Left of the cave FA: M. Le Gras, 1991 | 6m | |||
The Wok | |||||
15 | Mahamic Destruction
Start: at right hand end of main wall. FA: Shae Constantine, 1989 | 8m, 2 | |||
15 | Make or Break
Start: As for B.F. Continue straight up above crack FA: David Barnes, 1988 | 11m, 2 | |||
Dickhead's Area Dickheads Cave | |||||
V0 | ★★ Brickies manicure
The most left problem in the cave. Start low on the moss jug & pocket up the arête cross over the crack AC arête & finish on GHH jug. FA: Luke.W 2000 | 4m | |||
Bass and Flinder's Point | |||||
15 | ★★ Boy Martin's Muck
White marker BMM at the base. Boulder to the left is out. Interesting slab boulder gets you established for moves on good edges. Anchors under rooflet (same finish as DF). | 8m, 2 | |||
Villas Cops Are Tops Cave | |||||
V0 | ★ B2
Sit start on right side of cave up and out. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Catch me coppa
Sit start, easy jugging | 2m | |||
The Fish Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★★ Creature's Hollow
Start 1m to left of 'Bat Cave'. Crimps and jugs, up and over. Set: Lachlan S | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Coin Slot
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Plumbers Crack
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Money Box
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Hooters
| 5m | |||
V0 | ★★ Knockers
| 5m | |||
V0 | ★ Mighty Midgets
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Himbo Jimbo
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Bimbo Jimbo
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Slab of Death
| 5m | |||
V0 | Mmm...Jugs...
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Brookvale
Start at the undercling to the left of the start of 'The Young and The Restless' and go straight up to a top out. Anything to the right of the plant is off limits. | 2m | |||
Dead Mans Wall | |||||
V0 | V100 Manager
Squeeze yourself up the wide crack | ||||
Hill Top Bloc | |||||
V0 | ★ Spider Sanctuary Right
Start on the side pull on the right and go up. FA: Sam Farrar, 31 Oct 2022 | 3m | |||
Viburnum Crag | |||||
15 | ★ Screaming Eagle
Right of ECM. Top out to shared lower off. FA: Jason Lammers, 25 Apr 2021 | 10m | |||
15 | ★★ 31 Extra
Rad Trad on Amazing rock. Start is marked 31E. | 15m | |||
Cranberry Crags | |||||
V0 | Silky Golden Orb
Sit start on ledge, work way up arete to top out | 2m | |||
Woronora Lookout | |||||
V0 | ★ Juggy Prow
Steep juggy arete below The Overlap | ||||
V0 | Pumpty Dumpty
Left side of The Overhang Boulder | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ Kathy's Crack
Hand crack right of arete | ||||
15 V0 | ★ Kimmy's Crack
Easier hand crack to the right of Kathy's Crack. FA: D Kalatzis | 6m | |||
15 | ★ SSCC11
In gully behind the freestanding Block, easy crack on right, about 7m right of Wilshire. An old scout's route (Named after SSCC1 at Piddo), first recorded lead. Good gear. FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 9m | |||
15 | ★ Little Ridge
Tiny wall left of gully, about 3m R of SSCC11. Good protection, sling at top FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 6m |